Видео

H7s aren't plug and play for the S3, this was using the OEM connectors and everything fit so I'm not sure why you would want to change it?

@LueysGarage idk why, in France HB3/4 doesnt seem standard, and hard to find those philips on Amazon with this format (compared to H7). Anyways, ive ordered HB3 on Amazon UK :) Thanks ! Btw, no need to change the high beam ? Is it as plug and play ? I believe its H9 for the high beam. Also, do you have a link for the bigger plastic cover to protect the H3 like you have in the video ? Cant manage to find it (idk what to type) ! Thanks a lot !!

@@gabriels9977 I haven't done my high beams, I believe they are much harder to change since there's not much clearance behind the housing. The cups just try and find them on Amazon/Ebay have a search for 85mm led seal

@@LueysGarage alright, thank you very much again !

As long as the LEDs are pointing sideways and not up and down you should be fine. It was the same setting for me on both sides of the headlights. They both went in the same way for me

I tried my best and I was hoping to keep it for a long time!

@ how can I make contact with you?

@@antonyarnanova instagram @lueysgarage

@@mimsxx1581 didn't have to remove anything else apart from what I showed on video

I'm talking about the sensor on the left side. and Not the one of the two opposite. Because the sensor that I am talking about on the left side which is all alone, there is the anti-heat aluminum plate (the plate can be seen at 1 minute 15) which prevents access to the socket. Can you make a video to disassemble the 2 sensors which are on their own

@@mimsxx1581 I've sold the car since this video

@@red75v67 selling the GTA 🥲

I haven't seen a Moroso in person so I can't really say. I just liked the black colour instead of alloy/aluminium that was the main reason why I got the EliseParts one. Never took my car on track but I'm assuming performance is good

Glad I can help!

@tonypilot1000 from memory it's a welded nut, I don't remember having to deal with any loose nuts

Thank you Sr

@J27M haven't measured the difference but definitely helps after switching the engine off, the ECU heatsoaks slower off the engine's residual heat

That's probably not a bad idea, I know some people have made brackets to relocate it on the firewall without having to mod the cables but yes I would definitely put a fan on it if it was moved off the plenum because the plenum helps to cool it during operation

I honestly don't know, its probably a question for Greg as I'm not sure if the V6 has the same shifting mechanism

@fabiocicu doesn't matter which car if its old it'll need work done and new parts...but the good thing is at least you are working on an Alfa and own an Alfa at the end 😅

It all comes as a kit including the harnesses, you could just do the seals but I did actually notice my car performed better afterwards which might mean the magnets were getting a bit worn out after 140K km...either way the parts are cheap enough that its the time that is the biggest cost and so you might as well do the entire job

Its adding on to the existing harness/plug

It is about 8" long and is normally mentioned as an oil stopping cable. Even after installing this oil stopping cable open up the ECU box next to the engine to check if engine oil had reached the ECU board. If yes spray it with electronic dry contact cleaner. Let it air dry for 1 hour before putting it back.

Thanks I think it is necessary to have the cups since its not fully sealed behind the headlight, the wheel arch liner only partially prevent water and debris from entering. I don't think overheating is an issue for the bulbs I bought since apparently they run quite cool, they have a fan built into the back of the unit. It is a good point about recirculating hot air but so far I haven't had any issues at all. It might entirely depend on what bulbs you buy

Yes it has been a while! I've got loads of videos to upload now so will be trying to do once a week until I can clear the massive backlog

Holding up perfectly, I don't use them that often because I don't drive at night much with my Exige but they seem to be just as good as new still

@@LueysGaragethank you Luey, what is the length of the aftermarket cups required for the LEDs? & did you find they were too long/ short at all?

@m11ny the listing for mine is gone unfortunately. They were 85mm wide but I think 83mm might be better. For depth just get the ones with the round half sphere shape that should be fine

Don't have a shop and I live in New Zealand...

Didn't expect it to be so clean, normally they are filthy when I get to them. Goes to show my wife's Mini was well looked after!

@MartijnFeekes I agree, the ECU still gets hot when you turn the engine off after driving due to heatsoak but I think it definitely helps. Some people mount it somewhere else but I heard the ECU gets hot so the air going through the intake helps to cool it down while the car is running. Either way the heatshield is better than nothing

@mohamedazkoul9544 yes I'm now always trying to use the best fluid, also got Fuchs fluid for my newly acquired E250 wagon 👌

@lancegraham7722 did you try taking off the accessory belt and spinning all the pulleys? It's a common Merc problem around 100k km that all the pulleys will start wearing out especially the idler pulley(s). There's only 1 idler and 1 tensioner on the M271 so you can replace those easily. That's where I would start! Otherwise depending on the noise it's making there are known timing chain and tensioner issues. Hard to say without listening to the car and test driving the car

@@LueysGarage thanks, will try this to start. Appreciate your time

@@LueysGarage the big spring for the belt tensioner has a polymer sleeve acting supposedly as noise suppression. This was found damaged by my mechanic when replacing almost all the chain timing parts and the water pump for M271. Let's see if the engine is at idling rpm without the AC switched on would be less noisy.

Sold the car and bought the new Exige 390 since then. Unfortunately the car got into another accident recently and is up for sale again! Tempting to buy it back but I don't think it'll happen

@@LueysGarage yes I see it's on trade me. Stripes.removed

According to the internet it does, I haven't tried it myself though

Its a good thing it's slightly hidden but it's there!

Have a look on Ebay or local Facebook groups, we manage to find our set on Facebook even before we bought the car. Last resort would be to ask your local dealer, they have upgrade packages available as its such a common mod.

@@LueysGarage thanks for the help 😊

Yeah same process really, all the cars of that era are very similar. Leave the cap open and don't let the car heat up too much. Do it a few times is fine, you'll never get all of it out on the first time but if you do it a few times it'll get most of it out

I would say this shouldn't happen with the cam adjustor magnets but it could happen with other components or sensors

@LueysGarage But oil seeping from the cams sensor wire harness to the ECU would malfunction the module, would it not? I've already replaced both O2 oxygen sensors, but exhaust emissions are still very high. Also, the ECU is not throwing a fault code or engine warning light. What else might it be?

@@goinsouth5187 its possible but if the oil has gotten to the ECU etc I'd expect worse symptoms than that, did you check the plugs to the ECU to see if they have oil in them?

@LueysGarage No, not yet. I'm having it checked on Tuesday next week. My C180 is driving perfectly but burning a lot of fuel, and Co2 emissions are 3.7% at 2,700rpm when they should be below 0.20%.

@LueysGarage at idle, fuel reading can be as high as 14 or 15 lites/100kms. The lowest I've managed to get it on the motorway is 9.2 lires/100kms. Ideally, it should be between 7 or 8.

Didn't have to do anything with the ECU

I do not

So this was a few years ago and honestly from my recent experience you don't need to change the capacitor, they are fine. Just reattaching them to the PCB solves the issue 99.9% of the time. I do still have spare ones incase I lose one or there's some obvious damage. Sometimes the contacts can bend or wear out for example.

Its just the Whistler Pro model, nothing fancy. Mostly for the fixed speed cameras there's more and more being installed now.

2014, I believe every car has to do the coding if it didn't already come with LED union jack lights

Yep...old school Merc build quality + AMG craziness, good combo

Gravity...and a tight fit!

Quite often they get seized on and require a bit of torque to get off. Same with sump plugs. These days I use a big ass breaker bar to avoid problems

Is it from your aircon or is it coolant. You should never see any coolant come out of your car

@@LueysGarage the water Drops in the Part of the aircon but only when the cap is not on while im letting bleed the System, when the cap is on the Tank there is no water loss

I think we've emailed each other a couple of times. My recommendation is to courier it to me and let me check it first. The capacitors can look fine but the connection could be dodgy. Also best to take a video of the exact symptoms so I can see if its actually ECU or not

Totally worth it, sound quality is much better with the new speakers. Haven't had a chance to replace the rear ones yet but will do soon since its winter here soon. Only regret is that I have a cheap Clarion headunit, need to upgrade this to make the most of the new speakers

Hi, It seems you forgot to reinstall the filter capacitor in each tweeter. As you can see in you video, the old teweter (each tweeter) had a yellow electrolitic capacitor series (the component that looks as yellow cilinider). This works as a filter to avood bass frequencies to go for the tweter. Otherwyse the tweeters will be killed soon. Please replace the capacitors quickly...

So my dad kept taking his car to Oil Changers which is like a quick lube thing here in New Zealand, they never actually did anything apart from change the oil and filter. Turns out he had this oil leak issue in his old C180K and caused the entire wiring harness to be fouled by oil. Cost thousands to put right and probably contributed to a premature starter motor failure too. You don't want to skim when it comes to electrics on modern cars so thanks for your opinion but you're misleading other people.

@@LueysGarage what i mean is that you only have to change the rubber seals which cost less than $5 now you understand

@@frankiegregoriou4604 installing a new rubber seal (o-ring) does not solve the problem of engine oil getting into wire harness. It needs the "oil stopping cable".

You'd probably lose a ton of oil? Don't know if there's any other problems but sounds like a very unlikely scenario

It has gotten significantly better over time I have to say and I've done many track days now with the short shifter installed with 0 problems while shifting. You also do get more used to the throw and where the gears are over time. Definitely worthwhile mod that I'm not removing!

Definitely do the conductive epoxy in your case, it's not an easy solder job and you can damage your ECU permanently very easily. Grab a decent multimeter with some small probes and you're good to go

@@LueysGarage My doubt is if the conductive paste lasts as long as a firm solder...

@@__Dany well they used that from factory and probably a much inferior product to what we can buy today and yet it's still lasted 20 years. It's very easy to do it again in the future anyway

​@@LueysGarage Hey Luey, I successfully repaired mine with the conductive epoxy, just 2 things to point out, the old capacitor was actually well stuck on the pcb, couldn't test it with the multimeter because of all the sticky mess, proceeded to replace it anyways and it's working, for now. The other thing is the capacitor with the black dot, the link you provided on the other video its dimensions are smaller than the original one on the ECU, did you have the same situation as me?

@__Dany that's good to hear, my capacitor with the black dot was the same dimensions as the old one, but as long as it has the same specs and you were able to mount it it will be fine

Yeah so I noticed later on that this headunit is actually quite shallow, that might have contributed to being able to get it installed flush

@@LueysGarage I removed the metal frame eventually. It went all the way in and used a drop of glue to stabilise it

Yep check this comment and a few before this one forums.thelotusforums.com/topic/99314-led-headlights/?do=findComment&comment=966068

Ah, got it. Thanks again for making this vid 👍