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You can find it here www.zaphaudio.com/SB12.3/

I looked and didn’t see the connection schematic. But thank you

You do have to read the crossover schematic and know the basic of a circuit diagram, since the components might be moved around I didn't show that part in my videos. For the tweeter section for example, right before the 2.35 ohm resistor before it goes to the capacitor, you'd hook up the positive from the amp. This does take me a bit of time, but it ensures you get everything connected properly.

You know I think you're right, this was a while ago, but that definitely wasn't the only mistake.

@@davewiebespeakerdesign only one I noticed hahah, Imy struggling to design my first speakers right now. Cone excursion is getting me badly, and if I fix it then I lose good bass response because I made the box smaller. I can't figure it out.

I personally probably won't, I had a cabinet builder do most of my cutting, and after watching him work I understand how they get perfect fits. For us average home builders I think you're right. We just don't have the tools for it.

Excellent work! Hopefully all worked out all, and better yet, they sound amazing?

I fasten the inner part to a scrap piece of wood, then secure scrap blocks around the piece of wood being cut. This way I can take it out for fitting and put it back in the same place to change the size if needed. There's a video in this Playlist series of me doing exactly that.

If this is a ported box, start at 20 hz, sounds to me like you missed it, go up in 1 hz increments, take your time, you'll also notice when you hit the spot the port will be moving a ton of air while the speaker looks stopped. If it is indeed at 80 to 90 hz the box might need to be redesigned. My guess is either you missed the tuning frequency or the box isn't correctly designed. Do you have the make and model number of the speaker along with the dimensions of the box and port?

I went through all my footage to see if I could answer your question, as well as checking online. Unfortunately, I can't without a bunch of disassembly, that being said, I would just get the 25w resistors, they are 50 cents more than the 10w and you won't lose anything by going bigger if the R value is the same.

It is the source audio file encoded into this video. It's not played through anything, it's there so you can hear the file before it goes through a receiver, the speaker, picked up by the mic, encoded then put into this video and encoded again into mp4.

They sound awesome as well, they continue to amaze me.

I did the same, measured the sound, glue vs no glue,I agree that's a huge difference. Can't believe how much it vibrated. I wish I knew someone close by that let me play with their CNC. That would give me a chance to really play. All in time I guess. Thanks for leaving your experiences, always good to hear what others are making.

Scoring definitely works, I forgot to mention. The diagonal grain trick is new to me, thanks for sharing.

I'm glad you found it helpful!

Amazing what can all cause this, I'm happy you got yours fixed, it is just very annoying when it's buzzing.

Sounds like the port is just too small for the enclosure. I would start by loading the driver in WinISD and build the box the driver wants. Porting a box is never as simple as just adding a port. I suspect your tuning frequency is way off what it should be as well.

@@davewiebespeakerdesign exactly what i did, unfortunately driver needs 15L enclosure is aprox 10L. i've imput the port diameter in wini 3cm and gave me around 80mm lenght exactly the size of the port i bought :). The only thing it's not flared in the inside but i guess most aren't. I have another port of 4cm i think and will try with that one. Difficult around here in Romania to find ports this small. I would use a passive radiator but don't have the room for it. And if i use it sealed, by looking at the driver, compared with ported, it's excursion is way longer and wouldn't want to stress it like that. Tested with a plug into the port. Another option would be AP but don't have the room either :(

I'm not sure I understand exactly what you're asking. What are you trying to do?

I can't wait to hear them, I've heard so many good things about the drivers and have read comments online about these speakers. I've used a few SB acoustics drivers in other projects, I really enjoy the sound of them, already thinking I will need a center channel, I've heard things with their drivers I have never heard before in music. Thanks for sharing your experience, welcome to the channel!

I'm thinking I wasn't the only one. Can't wait to hear them when they're assembled.

I've been holding off on this purchase for a long time. Too say I'm excited to see them come together is an understatement.

I love the enthusiasm! I'm excited to hear these things when they are done! I'll keep you posted.

It's giving me everything I need without a subscription or even signing in. I have no idea of any costs.

In the video description.

Sounds like somewhere a wrong number is entered. That would be chuffing pretty solid.

I added a link to the DIY audio forum where you can get it. Thanks a bunch for pointing it out. Hopefully the website to the main link pops back up.

I'm glad you like the effort I'm putting into learning and sharing. There's way more to learn than what I ever expected. I do enjoy it though and I'll soon start posting again.

This was a while back since I did this so I'll do my best to recall what was going on. Since I have the drivers in question in different boxes I was able to move them and check time alignment. It didn't change the resulting measurement pointing back to phase. There might be more to time alignment that you're referring to that I don't understand which is highly possible. The icing on the cake at this present time is I have a phase problem with my subwoofer at the present time. You can switch the phase on the subwoofer, but the kicker, in one phase it cancels audio from the lowest speaker, in the other phase it cancels some audio from the bottom range of the mid. I've managed to adjust in the eq to a tolerable point. I'm glad you like the channel, it's been a while since I've posted, there are plans for the new year. I'm still active!

Very well written. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. The earliest I built anything was in the 90's with much less in resources and much more trial in error. I agree the tools are great, but for me I would agree they are a starting point. Ultimately how it sounds is the real deal. I'm looking forward to the new year to continue the journey. Your feedback is most welcome should you follow.

@@davewiebespeakerdesign Thank you, you have one more follower now.👍👁️

The app is called frequency generator.

Good changes for everyone, sound is like coffee, everyone likes it a bit different. What I really enjoy sounds good to a everyone that's hard me setup but what I'm trying to do is demonstrate how to get what you're after based on a driver of choice. Any setup I get really dialed in I'll be fully transparent and share all dimensions in future videos.

For the price it's impressive. Let us know how it turns out.

@@davewiebespeakerdesign The Klipsch RP1600 has been nothing short of great for me so far with both movies and music. It’s definitely a huge sub. I’ll be making a custom tv stand so I can keep it in the center of my tv wall. It’s a little directional so I prefer it in front of me. I don’t even use it with a lot of gain. The dial goes to 11 and I use it on 5. I’m running it with 4 Def Tech towers and Center (all of which have subs built in). DM30 Center BP8080ST L R Mythos ST Rears Mythos XL x4 Atmos Pioneer Elite 505 Receiver with Dirac. Everything I own I’d definitely recommend to anyone.

Glad it was helpful, good luck with your project!

Unfortunately not, you can use WinISD and plug in the box parameters along with the speaker driver parameters to know more about your speaker.

@@davewiebespeakerdesign ok thanks. I use WinISD to build the box, but I want to know real life tuning.

@@ZuNunchaku You have me stumped, but if you have a WinISD design, couldn't you do base test tones and see where your F3 and graph is and see how close you hit your design? Either way, let us know when you figure it out.

@@davewiebespeakerdesign the problem about testing is, im not audio expert. and I dont have any microphone that suit for measurment. based on my ear the sound really hits around 59hz preety high frequncy in my opinion

Wow that's really low. Enjoy your thunder in the movies!

Hi Mark, thanks for the detailed reply and sharing some of your experience. I have thought about bi amping the sub driver in a tower and making that it's own thing to take the load off the system, that has definitely crossed my mind. I've also got a few different ideas on how I might set that up. On the same note, I've also done some research with the idea of active crossovers, but there again it's completely untouched territory for me which is fine, but will require some research and learning. I'm okay with that but at the same time, like you, I'm trying to watch how much the hobby will load my cheque book as well. Whatever I decide to do, I will share with the viewers of the channel, who knows what I'll come with, only time will tell.

Another way to get the job done! I had to google the function generator, hadn't heard of it before, yes, I'm new.

@davewiebespeakerdesign I've had about 15 years and I picked up second hand from electronics repairer that was getting a new one. But still works good.

If it works good, no need to replace it.

I did try and buy a DATS but they are under supply shortages in Canada atm. The string is a great idea!

If you hear a speaker that you really like the sound of, this is one way to copy a variable, or to test a box you designed to see if you hit your target frequency.

Agreed the computer simulation only gets you so far, after that I'm sure with experience and time I would be able to come up with a generic starting point, however, I am nowhere near that experienced, so I'll have to use every tool I have. Since this video, I've added a third speaker and rebuilt the crossover. In the video you watched the bass had a 1.1mH and a 47uf to ground, the tweeter, 13 uf then .43mh to ground, then another 62uf cap and a 4.7uf cap to ground.

@davewiebespeakerdesign yea I'm sure the xsim , is very helpful with 2nd and 3rd order networks, I have been using 1st order with awesome results but I'm going to give 2nd and 3rd a try ,I find it hard to believe that they're going to sound any better, also I haven't been using resistors, instead I use lpads,

@davewiebespeakerdesign hey you might try, this. I put my test caps and coils on a serving Table right next to where I listen & run longer separate wires as you do, to each speaker, now I can keep switching in seconds without getting up ,also I find no need to make speakers sound good in my back yard on top of a ladder, just make them sound the best you can for the room your using "pretty sure the average listening room is somewhere around 12 x12 to 14x14 no ? "

@@ericschulze5641 Longer wires is a great idea, I might have to come up with using my coffee table as a test bench. Average room is probably about 12 x 12, the one I have this system in is about double that with a 4 foot hallway. If I wanted to really do this right I would need to acoustically treat this room, it's WAY too bright atm.

@@davewiebespeakerdesign another thing you might try is get a few cheap plastic binding posts those black and red ones, "spring loaded " put 4inches of wire & alligator clips on them, insert your caps and coils in the binding posts voila, instant quick change .parts express, there's a couple old books I use by David Weems, designing,building, testing, home stereo speakers, there's an excellent xover chart in them just follow the graph, but you still need a bunch of caps and coils & trust me fractions of values can make a huge difference

I've tried to order a DATS several times, no luck for Canada atm, supply shortage...

I might do the same as well, I've had some non ported speakers and boxes in the past and I have LOVED them!

I've tried to get one a few times, the supplier's in Canada all seem to be short at the present time. Future projects will have me measuring I'm thinking once I can get a dats.

I've thought about mini dsp, I might experiment with active in the future. You're right about needing some stuffing in the speaker boxes as well, they could use something, spacing should be closer as well. Only time will tell where this ends up. Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it.

That's interesting, thanks for sharing, I'm often guilty of not understanding why it works just knowing it does, thanks for your insight.

And that's exactly what causes ported enclosures to sound inaccurate! because it is not a perfect world! in other words you can't have your cake and eat it too. On the other hand a sealed enclosure drastically improves response and frequency alignment relative to Output displacement at the compromise of efficiency, but' now amplifiers are so cheap for the amount of power we can buy! it makes absolute sense if you're a perfectionist audio file that demands accurate audio reproduction of High Fidelity than a sealed subwoofer enclosure is your only choice.. .

I have no doubt you are right but I will check it out, thanks for sharing.

I appreciate you checking out the channel. I can't answer your questions with certainty but some reading seems to have people typically going slightly above Fs. If you use WinISD start by what it picks for you, it defaults to the theoretical best provided you have driver specs loaded correctly.

Thanks. @@davewiebespeakerdesign

Bluetack, I can't say I've ever heard of it I'll have to check it out, thanks for the tip!

@@davewiebespeakerdesign it's the blue stuff you see everyone use on posters and stuff you temporarily want to hang up. I think everyone knows what it is but maybe not the name. It has a slightly sticky rubbery feel.