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I found them thx

@@sbetts10001 In case you need it, here's the direct amazon link I used to purchase the shades back in 2018....www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0126ETUB2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@mattvalentine4650 I made the mounting plate out of 1/4 inch plywood and got the L brackets from the hardware store.

@@saraboatman8046 Yes, I used a spray on adhesive. Then I kept the panels in place with the wood you see until the adhesive cured. Then I went around the outide perimeter of the panels and added white duct tape as a finisher/edger but in hindsight wished I would have used white RV roof tape as it is much more stronger and durable.

@@atgirl I painted mine for that very reason, to make it feel roomier. I probably should have sanded the surfaces first but I didn't. I ended up priming first and then painted with an exterior semi gloss paint for the durability of the exterior paint.

@@gilbertmartinez6538 I just made the mounting plate of 1/4 inch plywood and secured the dispenser to it with little L brackets.

@@dang.7950 I'm so sorry to not have kind of concluded that series. Life happened and I ended up selling the Aliner to my sister and built out a Promaster that I have been thoroughly enjoying the last 5 years. I hope to do a full van tour in the near future. The Aliner rebuild taught me so much and that I carried into the van build 😁

Very carefully and by tilting the plywood on it's side and angling it in 🤣

@@NicciOfArnold that’s awesome! 😂 Our door opening is only 71.5” and the bed length is 76”. I love your video and am going to try something similar!

It was this table leg on Amazon...Russell by Edelbrock MA-939 Chrome 27-1/2" Table Leg a.co/d/7Bfe7EM

And it was 2 of these bases (for floor and under the table) from Amazon...Edelbrock MA-1119 CHROME Exposed Round Table Base a.co/d/2ZRdHh8

I'm so sorry.....I ended up selling it to my sister and ended up building out a promaster campervan with the new skills I acquired.

Yes, that is a very doable idea. And you can use this particular pump for about 30 gallons of water on one charge. Good luck 😁

@@NicciOfArnold Thank you so much, Do you like those big water tanks that are mounted on the tires of the van?

@@orlandobabe I just kept it simple with the water jugs under the sink. I could see an advantage of the wheel well water tanks because they make good use of the space.

@@NicciOfArnold Yes, I thought about those wheel wells, but I wondered how hard is it in cleaning it and maintaining it? I do wanna keep it simple and just use a simple 5 gallon water jug maybe four of them and keep them under my bed and use 17 gallon jug for the gray water.

Yes. You can use it while it is plugged in for charging. The mini USB charging port is on the upper back side of the water spout and has a blinking charge indicator light next to the port.

The same one is still going strong and has never needed a repair. Now granted I'm only a weekend warrior. But I charge it once in spring and it gets me through summer and fall. One charge will pump 30 gallons of water and I am very conscious of my water consumption. Hope this helps 😁

It's just shy of a full size. I had to trim about 4 inches off the width of the foam and memory foam.

I have had no leak issues at all. I do keep an eye on it. So far, so good for the last 2 years. Could it be a loose hose or compromised hose attached inside?

@@NicciOfArnold Thanks a lot, good to know. My model is a bit different and it has manufactured gaps in the inside bottom, obviously to let go extra water out that was already pumped up when you shut down the pump. I will check your type of pump then, if it is made differently. My hose in tight and ok.

The link must have changed. It's the Camco drain tap with flexible hose. Here's the link: Camco Flexible Camper Drain Tap with Hose System | Ideal for RVs, Campers, Trailers, and More | (37420) a.co/d/duhKDKW

@@NicciOfArnold thanks :)

This would be perfect if you want them to have running water 😁

I do not have a hot water system 🤣. If I need any hot water I have to heat it up on the stove.

I split the floor into 3 sections and did 1 section each weekend over 3 weekends. With propper help and tools it definitely could have been done quicker. This also did not include removing the old flooring, nor prepping the new floor pieces during the week with waterproofer on one side and kilz on the other side.

The piston lifts work great. The bed does not lift totally up, itgoes about 18 inches and is enough to get into storage. Yes, the linens and pillows are able to stay in place with the walls down.

Thank you 😉

Yup, cold water only.

You charge it with mini usb cable on the back of the faucet head. The charge lasts for 30 gallons.

@@NicciOfArnold that sounds great, thanks!

The brand on Amazon is 'tobelife' and is a usb chargeable water pump intended for a 5 gallon water bottle.

Yes, it is multiple pieces of wood because it's almost a full size mattress.

I'm assuming an overlap to make a full 59 x 76 (ish) sheet

It worked out beautifully‼️ And was definitely more cost effective than buying the expensive pre-made ones 😁

I did have to use an epoxy adhesive to hold it in place though. The adhesive that comes on the blinds just isn't strong enough.

Since the 3/4 inch plywood was a little less than the actual 3/4 inch, I was able to get them in under the walls. I did use pieces of wood as spacers to maintain the gap between the walls and the trailer frame as I pulled the floor out which I did in sections, not all at once. I did not have to replace the aluminun nor cut the walls. The spacers worked well. And when the new floor was in place, I screwed the aluminum lip which was 4 inches long to the new plywood flooring underneath instead of the staples and tape they originally used. And yes, I removed all the staples and tape first and foremost which might have helped me gain the clearance I needed in using the 3/4 plywood versus the 1/2 inch particle board that was originally in place.

@@NicciOfArnold Thanks for replying - your videos with the trial and tribulations on have been super helpful!! Currently, I have cut the floor out leaving the H frame to wall in tact. As for cleaning out under the walls - I discovered that an oscillating saw with a multi blade (1" wide) neatly shears off staples (so no laying on the ground and they come off with the peeling of silicone) and demolishes and cuts the OSB board without damage to the frame and aluminum flashing. it even cleans out the seals under the door. A reciprocating saw will cut the frame cross members with even with a wood blade, in that lesson, I put it away. I am using West Marine 105 Epoxy on the marine plywood at about 3 coats , but also plan on installing treated 2 x4 along the frame (cross bolted) to provide a better , and still lightweight joist for the floors and add some additional braces for the 4' open area in front and back. Also Marine plywood tends to warp more, so more screws are needed. I was going to install 3 pieces for the floor, but now going to install smaller sections to easily replace the damage section in the future, Thanks to your insight. I am going with your undercoating idea as well and looking at the new aliners - they are doing the same thing (they stole your idea lol). Additionally, with the new joists installed, I plan on dropping Styrofoam board insulation in the floors at 3 1/2" in the new space below the floor and seal it with sectional aluminum sheeting on the underside. Thank you so much for taking the time to document your repairs. It has been immeasurably helpful!

It's just a piece of painted scrapwood that covers up the big hole I had to cut for my first pump which was a manual pump rocket faucet 🤣. That hole was just big enough that the new faucet barely covered it, so this was my solution.

I also used 3M adhesive, but then I reinforced with 1/2 inch screws along the outer edges and then added white duct tape as a kind of "finishing tape" along the outer edges also. I didn't have to do anything different around the latch area.

Okay, thanks for the response! Tried out liquid nails, so fingers crossed that holds a little better when it’s dry!

I used a satin exterior paint. I felt like it would hold up better and would clean easier without the chaulkiness of interior paint.

The quilt is actually the mattress cover that I sewed in place and can remove for washing. I use another cover for sleeping and then fold it up and store when not using.

@@NicciOfArnold What a great idea. Did you ever make privacy window covers for the window over the sink? Mine have these diagonal fabric blinds that are so hard to roll down and roll back into place.

@@gregjean130 I never found a good solution for this one. I just use a tie back and don't bother rolling the curtain all nice and neatly 🤣.

I ended up replacing that wall with 1/4 inch glossy white board from Home Depot before I did the small bubble window blind so I had no holes to worry about. However, on the wall with the big wide bubble window, i just ran a strip of white duct tape from end to end to cover up the track holes and it just looks like finishing or seam tape, lol.

Thank you Nicci!!!!🤩

Hey there....the white square is a 1/4" piece of painted scrap wood and I used it to cover up the huge hole I had to drill through the counter for when I was using the manual hand pump that was there before. Was just my way of covering it up 🤣👌.

This really does work and is simpler than having to worry about having to install a traditional power water pump and a step up from having to use a manual hand pump which is what I had been using 😁👌