That counter top looks great. Is that sprayed over plain un-coated plywood? I had to look up table top resin. Just hadn't heard of it before. I really like this idea. I was going to just make a new top and use Formica and the gaudy old gold trim that is now on my countertops. This is a much better idea.
Well....the first one I did I had primed with Kilz, you know, sealing the untreated plywood so I could then lay down the stone paint. I was not happy with this because the white primer ended up making the stone paint much lighter than the color on the can top. I wanted the color of the can top! So I tested the paint on a piece of untreated and unsealed plywood and it worked. I got the color I was looking for. After the test piece dried for a couple of days, I looked for warping or swelling and there was absolutely none. So I figured I was just go with the untreated plywood and would let the epoxy resin be the overall sealer. The original countertop had the gold metal trim and I didn't like that much. So I did a roundover edge on the plywood with a router so I could do the stone paint and the resin all the way over the edge. For the epoxy resin I'm trying out a product called Glaze Coat at the hardware store. I will defintely do a couple of test/practice runs with the Glaze Coat because I really don't want to have to re-do any countertops!!
Another question, if you don't mind. What is the thickness of your plywood? I was just measuring the space between the top of my faucet and the folded down wall. It's tight but I think there might be enough room to use a little bit thicker plywood. The original is 1/2". I think 3/4" will fit but wondered what you were using.
I am using 3/4" plywood. The faucet that came with it is a low profile regular bathroom faucet. I can tell that part of the countertop sag was because that faucet didn't clear the hinge and was pressing down. I kinda like the faucet so I am going to sink it enough into the counter to be able to use it and still clear the hinge. I will add an extra piece of wood under the countertop that the faucet will actually be attached to. I'm gonna test it for a season and see how it works.
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That counter top looks great. Is that sprayed over plain un-coated plywood? I had to look up table top resin. Just hadn't heard of it before. I really like this idea. I was going to just make a new top and use Formica and the gaudy old gold trim that is now on my countertops. This is a much better idea.
Well....the first one I did I had primed with Kilz, you know, sealing the untreated plywood so I could then lay down the stone paint. I was not happy with this because the white primer ended up making the stone paint much lighter than the color on the can top. I wanted the color of the can top! So I tested the paint on a piece of untreated and unsealed plywood and it worked. I got the color I was looking for. After the test piece dried for a couple of days, I looked for warping or swelling and there was absolutely none. So I figured I was just go with the untreated plywood and would let the epoxy resin be the overall sealer. The original countertop had the gold metal trim and I didn't like that much. So I did a roundover edge on the plywood with a router so I could do the stone paint and the resin all the way over the edge. For the epoxy resin I'm trying out a product called Glaze Coat at the hardware store. I will defintely do a couple of test/practice runs with the Glaze Coat because I really don't want to have to re-do any countertops!!
Another question, if you don't mind. What is the thickness of your plywood? I was just measuring the space between the top of my faucet and the folded down wall. It's tight but I think there might be enough room to use a little bit thicker plywood. The original is 1/2". I think 3/4" will fit but wondered what you were using.
I am using 3/4" plywood. The faucet that came with it is a low profile regular bathroom faucet. I can tell that part of the countertop sag was because that faucet didn't clear the hinge and was pressing down. I kinda like the faucet so I am going to sink it enough into the counter to be able to use it and still clear the hinge. I will add an extra piece of wood under the countertop that the faucet will actually be attached to. I'm gonna test it for a season and see how it works.