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@@ErnestJohnson-y5l no worries. Thank you

@@RossTinney thank you 🙏

@@marcomotivated1499 sorry to hear that. Did you spray WD-40 or similar around it and let it soak in?

@@bossmanDIY I did. twice. 1 hour intervals. it wouldn't budge. I decided to just apply an oil based lubricant that has since resolved the stiffness issue... for now.

@@RoyaEnfieldBSAman cool, thanks for sharing 👍

@@bossmanDIY been messing around with the wife's r50. Dash warning lights flickering on and off. Have you come across this before?

@RoyaEnfieldBSAman no I haven't sorry

@@hiltonotto9906 if there's no tap next to the toilet, there should be an isolation tap (for your house's water supply) out in your front yard underground somewhere. This is where your water meter is, and it's usually under a plastic cover (usually a green rectangular shape if it's a newer house). In Australia that is... If it's an older house it could be a smaller round cover, and if there's nothing visible in your, lawn it could be in a garden bed.

If the supply line to your toilet is a braided rubber hose, you can also use a pair of visa grips, or locking pliers to pinch the hose together and stop the flow of water that way. If the jaws of the pliers are sharp and you don't want to damage the hose, use a rag or something to protect it. You shouldn't need to go overly tight if you use this method. Just go tight enough to squeeze the inner walls of the hose together.

@@chrisminter17 happy to help. Thanks for taking the time to comment

@mrr34 thanks for your detailed comment. I'm sure others with the same problem as you will find it helpful. All the best!

@@ricktreloar6098 happy to help! Thanks for your comment

@pclarkeyt happy to help in some way. Thanks for your comment

Thanks for your helpful comment, Kev. Appreciate it!

Thanks mate... That was really helpful.😊

Thanks for your kind comment. Glad you found it helpful.

No problem bro. Yes, the same thing happened to me. Happy to help

Thanks. Mine had no leaks as well, but I had to loosen the cartridge retaining nut to fix mine. You could try WD40, but is yours only sticking through part of the movement? If so, it may be the cartridge at fault, but you could try loosening the nut a little bit.

Good point, yes it's probably not necessary. Thanks for your helpful comment.

Oh OK. It fixed mine. Did you try moving it up and down before you tightened the nut up?

Not sure about your country, but you normally use the same side indicator as the parking area (left indicator in the case of this video)

A KTM dealer should have them

Happy to help. Thanks for your comment 👍

Thanks. Yep sounds like you will need a new cartridge, and yes you will have to loosen and remove the big nut to access it.

@@bossmanDIY Thanks fellah.. keep up the good work 👏👏

@@brianmuffett2159 Thanks bud

Great. Thanks for your helpful comment! Glad I could help in some way with the video. Cheers

@@bossmanDIY I don't think I would have tried it if I hadn't watched your video!

Try these guys. masterparts.mobile034.com/ (located in Australia). Otherwise you might need to get them from an authorised Mini service centre.

Yes, sorry about that. I filmed everything and tried different ways of getting everything to line up, so it was confusing for me even to edit the video together 🙃 because it was a few months afterwards when I did the video. Glad you made it through in the end.

Thanks for the comment. Glad I could help.

Happy to help! thanks for your comment

No problem. Thanks for the comment

No worries mate. Happy to help

PS Good video by the way

That's good to hear! Thanks for your helpful comment. Yes for the price it goes alright and does the job. Great for a part timer or hobbyist. With some small modifications you can tackle four color jobs without too much of a headache with registration.

@@bossmanDIY You mention "with some modifications". . .I'd be interested in knowing what those are? I attempted a 4-color job recently as my first attempt but registration was a nightmare and because I was on a short turnaround I opted to just do them with vinyl (I also use a Cricut system with a nice heat press).

​@edwells3818 if you notice on my screen clamps I have added some thicker metal sections over the top. Because the clamps are flimsy, when you tighten the knobs down on your screen, it actually bends the clamps which changes the angle of the clamping knobs and causes them to "walk" around which throws your registration out. I might do a short video to explain better.

@@edwells3818 here's a link to my mod video ruclips.net/video/4UhtdSZmN6g/видео.html

Happy to help.

No worries. Yes mine was bought new about 15 years or more ago so they may have changed the design. Seems strange that you can't access it somehow. Good luck with it! I'm no mechanic either I just know some basics

Merci ☺

Im sorry i don't understand what you mean. Do you mean raise the water level so there is more water when you flush??

@bossmanDIY . Hello it is all good , I managed to find the two little buttons on the side so that the top.sectiom of the flush valve can be lifted to the correct height. Thank you for your reply and helpful video

@@cheapshots2 Ok. Glad you solved your problem and found my video helpful. Thanks

For the price its pretty good because the better quality ones are quite considerably more expensive. I'd say if you're going into it as a serious business steer clear of this type of press. But if it's purely a hobby or whatever you can make it work. I've only printed about 50 or 60 garments doing runs of 10 or 20. Again if you are serious and you can afford it, i would spend the extra and get a professional press.

You could probably still get close to what you paid for it as some people would be happy to have it already assembled if you just wanted to try your hand at screen printing (like myself).

😆 sorry my toothbrush wanted to be in the video

@@bossmanDIY Haha just kidding. Great video. Thank you for sharing! 🙏👍

Glad I could help! Thanks for you comment

Sorry I don't have any experience with that myself. Good luck

Has it just started to get progressively stiffer over time or has it been like it ever since you moved to that house? It could be the cartridge is on the way out or it could be the retaining nut for the cartridge. The easiest way to test it would be to loosen the nut bit by bit until it operates freely. And as long as it doesn't leak after doing this you can just reassemble everything and see how it goes.

@@bossmanDIY I have the faucet for about 10 years. It happened recently. I spoke to a rep on the phone and told her the problem with using it as it is stiff in any direction. She told me to send her photos of my faucet as the illustration guide as 3 different photos of 3 different model numbers. The model numbers do not align with the photo. She said it sounds like the cartridge needs to be replaced but it is not under warranty. I sent her an email with photos of the faucet and the problem. She replied that I took wonderful photos of the faucet and again asked what the problem was as I may not have to purchase anything. I wrote back and repeated the problem again. That was about a week ago and I haven't gotten a response back. Maybe because of the holiday. I thought about not waiting and just buying cartridge part myself. I just wanted to be sure before I buy the cartridge. I don't have a 36mm wrench, socket or adjustable tool to loosen the nut or remove it. I'll have to borrow or buy one after the holiday.

@@lauras2519 OK I don't have much experience with these apart from the one I did in the video. I would try borrow a wrench and try loosening the nut slightly. It could be that there is a limescale build up that has caused it to stiffen up. From memory, someone else commented here that their's got stiff to operate but it came good again. If you are desperate, you could try multi-grip pliers if you had a set of those that opened up big enough but you have more chance of damaging the thread with those, depending on how tight the nut is. If the nut loosens easy it may be the cartridge at fault but if it's super tight to undo, maybe loosening it a tad will work.

@@bossmanDIY Thank you so much for your response.

No problem happy to help!

Hi Gerry, thanks for your comment. I haven’t had much experience myself, the one in my video was the first time I had dealt with a mixer faucet so not sure exactly what the cause would be. Without a shut off valve under the sink you would have to locate your main supply shut off. Not sure what you have over there but in Australia the newer houses have a rectangle buried box (somewhere near the street) with a plastic cover to access the valve or sometimes they are housed below a round plastic cover. At an older house we had an exposed shut off that was in a front garden. If you have flexible braided hoses under your sink you can sometimes kink them and use “vise grips” (adjustable locking pliers) to hold them kinked and isolate the supply that way. If the hoses are old though, you could risk damaging the hoses by kinking them. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it though. Fingers crossed it has fixed itself. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. Maybe someone else here can give more info.

Hi sorry I didn't clarify the leak part. The process for fixing the leak would be the same. (Follow the same steps to dismantle the tap/faucet) if it's leaking from the spout (dripping) it likely will need a replacement cartridge.

@@bossmanDIY okay, thank you

Cool thanks for sharing that information! Appreciate it.

Thanks for the kind words. No worries, happy to help. You will definitely save a lot of money doing it yourself! And yes a roboot is probably all you need. Packing some fresh grease in there will give it a new lease of life provided that your bearings seem ok.

Hi, thanks man. The part number I listed in the description (Dura 1817016) was off the packet of my replacement one I got. If you're in Australia and have a Reece store near you, you could take your old washer in (or call them and give them the above part number). That's what I did, as I was struggling to find a replacement before that (they had one in stock).

www.reece.com.au/search/?query=Dura%201817016 (nothing appearing on their website for that part number, but it does look like the same flush valve - apart from the buttons at the top - so I'm assuming the seal is for this valve, as it's only 2 digits out)

Thank you

It seems that only the 'S' variant has this rubbing problem. The coolant hoses had to be rerouted closer to the fan to make room for the intercooler for the turbo on the 'S'.

Thanks for sharing your comments. Yes lucky we found the both problem without getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with a cooked engine.

Cool thanks again for the info

No problem

sorry for the late reply mate. The allen wrench I used for the grub screw was a 2.5mm which is slightly loose, so it may be an imperial size (to be exact), but the 2.5mm should do the job provided that it hasn't been previously over tightened.

Thank you