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No need to apologize everybody’s entitled to give their input. You should consider throwing a video together to share with people that have your same concerns. It may be of great value to the community. Thanks for your input and have a good one.

No problem. Happy to help.

Generally, it’s just your string. There is no need to adjust the cables unless you can lean. You have to measure for cam lean and that will tell you when you have to adjust the cables. I have another video on cam lean. If you check that out, it’ll explain.

That’s awesome!! Thanks for sharing!!

Glad you liked it!! Thanks for watching!

Gotta love hobbies!!

Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful.

R15

Good luck!!

You got that right! Thanks for watching

Good to know. Thanks

Zombie slayer arrows by black eagle

I have only used 20”.

Thank you have a good one

Heat and twist. It will usually destroy the arrow but you get the bushing out. If you are carful you can save both but in order to save both you must use minimal heat or it ruins the carbon.

1. 20” 2. The only custom arrows I used are the ones I built. I’m sure there are some good ones out there. 3. I use thorn broadheads. I have a few videos on tat as well if you look on my channel. ruclips.net/video/eOoFvc3EgUk/видео.htmlsi=skZ1kcvSNWV2LRUS 4. I use any string. I haven’t gotten a bad one yet.

It’s all a calculation based on your fps and distance to impact. You would need to chronograph your arrow to know your true speed then do the math on how far it travels in .32 seconds and that is your max distance according to this article I referenced. I hope this helps.

It’s fun messing with these bows. Good luck

That’s great Info. Thanks for sharing.

Glad it was helpful! I’m happy to help

Nevermind I see it wouldn’t matter if you cut them off or not as you have the hangers at a fixed height anyway. If they were adjustable it would work

I have cut them off before. As far as the winch goes. If you position the pulleys properly and added one more to the back corner you would be working with shear strength and that would be greater than the rack strength. It definitely is worth it. That thing is a smooth operator!!

It was already engaged on the string and rather than messing around with taking it off with an Allen wrench by triggering the switch underneath I decided to just pull the string out. Once the string was out, I wound it up.

@@zumaconcepts1200 Thanks for letting me know...just making sure it's not something I needed to do. BTW, thank you for all your videos. They help a lot!

@@kurtglo thank you and I’m happy to help.

32” are for compounds/longbows. The 18, 20, and 22s are standard bolts. They are rated for crossbow use.

Happy to help. I’m not sure if you checked it out but I have quite a bit more information on Ravin arrows and more at my RUclips channel.

Thank you!

I stopped shooting thorns because they won’t replace blades any more, and the price. Sevr packaging is amazing. They will run a buy 6 get one free and the blade replacement is pretty simple and affordable. Just seeing your thoughts and if you have looked into those yet or not?

I haven’t. I have to stick with thorn until someone makes something similar that has zero protrusion from the blades until impact. The high speed of the bows can’t have the wind interference. It creates big challenges for consistency in grouping. They definitely look like great broadheads.

@@zumaconcepts1200 I shoot my sevrs out of ghost 420 previously which has way less blades exposed than rage. I shot them out of my ghost 420 up to 60 yards hunting successfully. Pass through heart shot. And that was free handed. I even attempted an 86 yard shot where I missed low… I was attempting to guys yardage as the crossbow I had, the farthest pin was at 70 yards. I had no deflection of flight or anything. Just hit low. Again free handed shot. And the arrow buried with a flat line of impact. I can test it out at 100 yards and let you know if that’s something you’re curious of?

@@zumaconcepts1200 you can also buy sevr individually for testing. They have a set screw when shooting into targets. So will let you know if it’s due to early deployment of blades. Or if it was actually the little tabs. But I haven’t had any issues at 420fps. My ravin r29x shoots at 450. So will have to see how they will do. But i strongly recommend taking a look. I believe $15-$17 for one head. To me it’s worth trying for ya. Especially considering the upside.

@@michigangrownoutdoors7254 thank you for all this information. I will have to give them a try.

Best of luck. I’m sure you will be good. I’m very particular about my results. Beyond necessary. Hahah have a good one.

So… It depends on your bow. Mine in this video shoots 420 fps. The penetration at 100 yards is more than enough. I have not shot a deer further than 85 yards with this setup but it was a straight pass through at 80.

First of all thank you for your support. Second, I used limb savers and didn’t see much of a difference. They actually kept falling out no matter how tight they were in there. I eventually removed them because I was concerned it was affecting my accuracy. So long story short I don’t personally think there is a good option other than shooting from inside a sound deadening blind. It is one of the sacrifices of the performance in this case. Range needs speed and speed makes noise.

Up to 12 days. I cut the hide down the spine and chest and peal each side separately. Works great.

The scope I have on the video is no longer available. Here is something similar amzn.to/4eggsGq Also I have a full how to video on my channel. ruclips.net/video/JErK7u0RQLM/видео.htmlsi=-IQAz2YUR1hWXjOw

That’s awesome!!! Thanks for sharing!! I’m happy to have helped!

Thank you for the follow up

amzn.to/47AqEHg

You can order it from Ravin.

You have to order it from Ravin. They aren't cheap. Mine wasn't anyway.

@@brandondauzat6992 you can use the link I added. They are expensive but you can get them on Amazon.

Check my other video out on cam lean. It might be your issue. Usually that is the cause for one side in and one side out. People will say “as long as it’s in there it’s good” I disagree I make sure it is dead center on both sides. It counts for consistency. ruclips.net/video/u-tq_b_gTsw/видео.htmlsi=45ir3GRS4siVwi3R

Everyone that does use them say if you have a brand new string they work fine. I personally don’t trust it, but if they’re working for you, that’s great.

Yes.

@@zumaconcepts1200 I've killed one 8 point with THORN RIFT... how have they performed for u on deer ? I switched to SWAT X-MAG HYBRID (COC) 4BLADE after sending the 2 blade RIFT Just under a big bucks heart & I think if I'd had a 4 blade I would have had a dead deer cause I would have clipped the bottom of the heart I want to believe...

I have never lost a deer using them. They perform extremely well with the modification I recommend.

20”

Yea. That would be a good fix for that. Thank you for input.

I just checked them out. They don’t have any significant differences from the standard version. Maybe more durable to the point you can use them a second time… They definitely look cool.

Exactly!!👍

No problem. Feel free to reach out anytime. My email is in the description.

For starters, thanks for checking out all the videos and I appreciate your compliments. I would stick with Ravin brand nocks. The main reason I say that is it’s the most critical part of ensuring that the bow fires correctly and safely. My other videos will show you how you can change things out as far as the arrow goes, but I never mess with the nocks. It’s a far too important piece of the puzzle to mess around with.

@@zumaconcepts1200 did some further research online it seems that you can use things like the Firenocks but you “must” have a fresh string. The Raven nocks indent the string creating a loose fit and apparently the fresh string resolves this. However I still think clicking on the string like Raven has done will create more consistency and accuracy. So I’m forging ahead with your recipe.

I couldn’t agree more. Well said.

@@zumaconcepts1200 quick question. I tried installing the Ravin lighted nocks. It they don’t seem to insert all the way into the bushing. Is there a trick I’m missing?

@@LoweKeyPewPew-px9bk no trick. It’s one of the things I dislike the most about the lighted nocks. They are very tight and difficult to turn off because of that. If you try to sand the nock down or the bushing open be very careful, if it isn’t perfect it will mess with the accuracy. I quite using lighted nocks for all of these reasons plus without them my groups went from 10 inches at 100 to about 4. I have 5 lighted nocks sitting here if you want them. Just shoot me your address and I will ship them your way. For free!

I buy aftermarket nock bushings and use the Ravin nocks. I actually quite using lighted nocks because they cause an inconsistent pattern in the arrows. You can find the bushings on line through this guy on FB. I have his link in my description.

Thank you for the info. Have a safe season.

Great to hear! Thanks for the post!!

You could be right. I used my video somewhere to indicate sound levels at the point of impact. I’m definitely not going to challenge your math... The way I tested it and recorded it, it should work. But maybe do some of your own testing to be sure. Thank you for watching and sharing your knowledge.

I don’t know much about the fire nocks. I recommend not using them. I stick with Ravin brand nocks. Sorry I can’t be more help.

I apologize. That was an old link. I had some made but I found someone that was selling them for less than I could. I updated the link. Should be good to go now when you look it up in the description.

It was used in a flower shop prior to the conversion. It’s definitely bad to the bone. It was a great build that was very useful. I would check local auctions. You can usually find them for pretty decent prices.

Build Ravin Crossbow Bolts .001 Same Weight and Flex, Re-flech Ravin Bolts, Nock in, Vane Master Pro ruclips.net/video/7Bxb69PIUaA/видео.html This video contains much more detail on the topic.