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@@daviddelahanty5088 The living room was about those same dimensions. The stairwell was right next to the chimney in the living room and a lot of heat went right upstairs so the room was never too hot. That size room should be fine, especially if you have some air circulation. I would steer clear of a “small” unit no matter what unless you have to get one based on clearances, or have a very small space with limited air circulation. I have a small i1500 in a 15x15 room with only two 30” doors on opposite sides. It can make that room very toasty with the blower on. However, I only use it to take the edge off on really cold days and nights. If you want burn time you need at least a medium size unit. You can always make a smaller fire in a bigger stove, but not the other way around.

@@ProductiveRecreation thanks. That regency 2450 is the size I was looking for. I think 2.3/2.4 cu. It’s nice you had the stairs next to that room. My stairs are on other side of house but I wasn’t expecting to heat upstairs. I just want to warm up a few rooms downstairs and make it more comfy without constantly running the oil burner. Thanks for insights.

@@daviddelahanty5088 It’s an insulated 6” stainless steel liner all the way up, about 20ft from the top of the unit to chimney top. A non-catalytic Regency I would buy again. We now have the i1500 Cascades series insert in our current house, which is smaller and uses hybrid non-catalytic/catalytic technology, and I would not buy that again. I have several videos on it. The only perk to it is getting the tax credit. There is really no comparison with the Regency hybrid to the quality and performance of the hybrid non-catalytic/catalytic system in my freestanding Woodstock Soapstone Ideal Steel stove. I made a video about some of the design and performance differences between them as well. Hybrid stoves aren’t all created equal… Pure catalytic is a little bit of a different design. If you go the hybrid or catalytic route, just make sure you are comfortable with access and how to service the catalytic combustor, and you might want to find out how much a new combustor costs because they don’t last forever! The non-catalytic units are definitely less maintenance, but a little less efficient.

Thanks, I live in the northeast and it seems these installers all say you don’t need insulated liner or block off plate on top of unit. So trying to find an installer to accommodate. My wife likes the Lopi next gen flush mount which is now hybrid but not sure if that has a similar design to i2500 where it is just installed to meet the epa rebate standard. The 2450 just seems to be a beast.

@@daviddelahanty5088 It may not be required by fire code, but stainless liners have been the standard for many years now. A Regency dealer would probably quote you a liner kit with the insert by default. Good dealers do installs too, although my chimney company is unimpressed with the installs from one of our local stove dealers… I’m not impressed with Lopi. Before the Regency there was a Lopi Answer insert in the fireplace when we moved in. It was junk. The door latch was chinsy, and no matter what I did with the door gasket and latch adjustment, I couldn’t get the door to seal. It was warped or something. Perhaps that was from prior user error before we bought the house, but the door latch was just a cheap junk system from the manufacturer. The Regency door latch is like 3x as stout as the Lopi was. It was one of the big selling points for me. Lopi has since redesigned the Answer and all their stoves for the 2020 emissions requirement, so maybe they’re better now… but I’m wary of them given that experience.

I was leaning regency with the non cat, based on your burns you were getting 6-8 hours which to me seems great. Plus it’s a cheaper install. I just got an all in quote on Lopi large flush for 10k. Regency will be around 6k. Your points pushed me over the top. Thanks.

There are two bolts on the underside that attach it to the bottom of the gearbox. They are metric bolts stamped 8.8 on the head. I would have to take it apart to determine exactly what size they are, as I do not recall.

@@ProductiveRecreationthat is all I need you are so helpful thank you.

Thanks for watching. Is your hydraulic fluid at the right level? Do other hydraulics operate (such as a loader)? Many possibilities. Regarding not raising - could be a clogged hydraulic filter, water in oil, insufficient fluid, bad position control valve, failed hydraulic pump… As for not lowering, could be the flow control valve is closed, or the arms are already all the way down. The 3 point uses hydraulic pressure to lift, but lowers under its own weight (or the weight of the attachment), with the drop rate controlled by the flow control knob beneath the seat.

Thanks for the reply! I'll have to check that. It's a work in progress. It was neglected for 20 years and I am just slowly trying to tackle it's problems one by one. Your videos have been a great help since I've never been very good at working on machines. I've learned a lot from them the tractor.

Check the diverter valve

@@pjclose8188 The manual doesn’t specify for the front axle dipstick, however it is very clear that the transmission dipstick is not threaded in when checking the level. With the front axle, if you have it at the full line when threaded in, the oil is still on the tip of the stick when resting on top. Overfilling the axle would be a problem, so I’m sticking with threading it in and keeping it at the full line. If I’m wrong, the oil is still on the stick with the other method of reading it.

@@RobertSmith-sh5fq No. It’s just an air filter for combustion air. If it were clogged, the engine would lose power or stall from incorrect fuel/air mixture for combustion. Overheating is the cooling system - dirty radiator screen, dirty/blocked radiator, insufficient coolant, and stuck thermostat are all possibilities. The 1700 needs every bit of its cooling capacity when working hard in hot weather. I frequently need to clean the radiator screen when doing any kind of field mowing in particular.

@@ProductiveRecreation that may be what it is. I’ll have to clean and drain everything. And figure out where the thermostat is. Thank you!

@@deesandman9477 That’s the tank vent. If you are overfilled fluid could come out, or if you are not on level ground. Make sure that end of the tank isn’t downhill! I made that mistake once. Doesn’t take much slope for fluid to come out the vent when running if it’s on the downhill side.

Yeah… I use that bar way so it was as much about not having that hanging over my head as it was firewood.

Not sure if the SD2200 is the same. I think it has a different engine for sure. Not sure about the transmission and rear end, which is all one reservoir. My engine is model LE-892 and it’s a 12 speed transmission. The dipstick is 8-3/16 inches from the base of threads to the tip.

@@warrenperry2455 Possibilities - Tines hitting a rock or hard soil, trying to till too deep into unbroken ground, applying down pressure on the handle bars to force the tiller to dig into hard soil… wheels coming out of gear is also a possibility, although in that case it wouldn’t stop the lunge, the tines would propel it!

The posts are pressure treated. They are just set in the natural soil, that’s it. My soil is sandy. I got them at Tractor Supply. I believe they are classed as 5-6 inch diameter. They are 8ft long. I spaced them closer than you need to, but it supports the fence better and makes it easier to keep it from sagging.

@@benkanobe7500 23.26hp per the Nebraska test.

@@ProductiveRecreation Thanks my old tractor (Ford Jubilee is was certified at 23 HP so should work like yours in same conditions)

@@benkanobe7500 My Ford 1700 was originally purchased by my grandfather to replace a 9N. It is very comparable to those early Fords in power and capability, with the upgrades of diesel power, 12 speeds, 4wd and a decent factory loader.

@@benkanobe7500 The method worked for me - with a hydro transmission things would be different, and with different soil things might be different too. The key is not to bury the auger! Go slow and clean out the hole as you go…

@@ProductiveRecreation This the 4th or 5th LP Post hole digger how to or example and I can tell you that your developed method works best and it would in clay as well.

@@dougsmith587 1) It’s possible on the parasitic drain. After the initial jump I ran it for a couple hours before parking and disconnecting the battery to work on it. The battery charged up from running and is still working fine a week later. It’s an OLD battery though, its days are definitely numbered. 2) The new switch is keyed the same as the old one, so I’m using my old Ford key (I only have one). The bigger key head is nicer to grab. You can get spares that have that generic narrow oval key head (may backup was one of those). I don’t think any Ford ones can be had… unless you try a tractor junkyard like Long Lane Tractor in PA.

@@ProductiveRecreation we have the same reason for wanting the large head key🤣🤣 thanks for the tip though, I never would've thought about a tractor salvage yard for keys!

@@dougsmith587 I’ve gotten other parts from them. They’re helpful at Long Lane.

@@relevation0 I think this is a 14 inch or 16 inch single and it’s no problem. Two 12 inch bottom is probably fine. Kinda depends on how deep you want to plow and if you have ballast (loaded tires and wheel weights) and plan to use 4wd. I lose traction before power in almost all applications. Otherwise, the 4wd 1700 is very comparable to an 8N in terms of weight and power. Pretty much the same PTO power, and about 3hp less than an 8N at the drawbar. Check out TractorData or the Nebraska test results. I load the loader bucket with rocks that pop out as I plow, and the extra weight and 4wd eliminates any slippage once the bucket fills.

@@Mateo31279 I did not. I thought about it though.

@@alanspangenburgjr2429 No, never done it. There are instructions for replacing the headlamp bulbs in the operators manual, but for reassembly it basically says reverse disassembly.

I’m not 100% sure but I believe all the Regency secondary air tubes are 0.75 inch diameter, with length varying by stove. They are notched/keyed on the end to lock into the stove.

@@ProductiveRecreation Thank you very much for your response, I am manufacturing a stove for my home and I am looking to replicate that type of combustion chamber with that type of double combustion, that is why I was asking for help to know the diameter of the secondary air inlet pipes, I do not live in the United States. united, greetings from CHILE 🇨🇱

Not sure there is one. I make a lot of things up as I go, based on stuff from carpentry and shop class in high school where I did some timber framing. Building and carpentry is not my day job, though I did do some during summers in college. Flooring is pretty easy. Just stagger the joints in the planks. Decide on 2-3 sets of board lengths that join on different joists, and then use a different one for each course of planks.

No, if it is black rot the leaf infection does not produce spores that will reinfect the tree next year. So it’s a wait and see if this resolves it for next year.

Thanks for watching. Not a new saw chain, but not dull. It might look slow, but I don’t waste my time with dull chains. Apple is very dense wood, denser than oak. That was very noticeable to me cutting and moving it. If I cut a piece of soft maple or a softwood like pine, you would have seen a noticeable difference in cutting speed. Same if it was smaller diameter. This is a 50cc saw with 18” bar cutting a 24” diameter tree.

The only issue with it has been the bracket to attach the steering cylinder to the tractor frame. The one with the kit wasn’t real heavy. I had to get it welded as bolting wasn’t sufficient. Then this last winter the steel failed around the attachment hole for the steering cylinder, so I had my neighbor weld in a chunk of 1/2 inch thick steel and we threaded it for the cylinder bolt. Granted, I use my 1700 HARD on rough ground in the woods. Otherwise, the steering system itself is flawless over 200+ machine hours, as long as you don’t try to do lots of other hydraulic functions at once. That’s based on the pump flow though and not the steering components. Roland Jackson was pretty responsive, and things came pretty quick all things considered. I even sent a couple things back for him to modify, as my 1700 is a bit of a unicorn and had a different attachment point for the dash (it was power assisted recirculating ball steering as opposed to full manual). I think Jackson has done kits for the 1300 so it should just “drop in.”