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The first guy who has the concept right. Actually, someone built cabinets also of foam boards covered with canvas or veneer.

One suggestion…you have too much stuff! Who needs 10 tape measures or squares?

What kind of Wood are the Cabinets made of?

It’s because you’re busy it’s hard to find the time to put everything away when you don’t know that you might need it again or need something else out of it.

Great tips. Sharp knife on the cut line will mitigate that tearout.

Thanks again for the woodworking tips...I always pick up something a little new from your site.

I just went through the same search for plumbing, those water heater elements are npsm threaded which is good for the purpose but rare for finding parts easily. There are fittings in tri-clamp, which is a joy to assemble, but you still end up with no options for tee fittings with the side fitting toward one end.

Ive often thought you may be able to increase the power out put by using a magnifying glass🤔

Yo bro can u show us how to build these??

For your safety shutoff, you could use a thermal fuse. (Commonly used in hair dryers, clothes dryers, smoke machines, etc.)

I appreciate the wisdom of this left handed pollock!🥰 I am following your advice for my overhead cabinets. Your cabinets are beautiful💚 New Subscriber December 29th 2024

This is crazy! And a bit obsessive. Cabinet makers out there, come down from your high horses! From a mechanical perspective and a user perspective, this approach makes very little sense. Imagine you are converting a mercedes sprinter. Those vans are built for transporting 2000kg (2 metric tonnes) of cargo with a warrenty of 5 years and 350,000 km. They have a regulation that says they can't have a total weight of over 3.5 metric tonnes without being re classified as a truck (EU laws). The same goes for camper conversions. So weight is important in the sense that if you keep the total weight under 3.5 metric tonnes, you dont have to reregister the van from a car to a truck. But the car itself can EASILY handle the weight of some heavier freakin caninets. The quality of living, and the feeling of build quality will both increase dramatically if the cabinets have some weight and regitity to them. A normal stripped mercedes sprinter will let you have over 1200 kg(!) to build with, without exceeding the 3500kg max weight and the car can handle more weight than that. These vans are built to haul ass every day until they die, i think they can handle 50kg more of wood weights for the cabinets. Jesus.....

Lovely and informative video. I've never understood why anyone would sacrifice 30-35% of their already limited space for a fixed bed. In my opinion, a bed should come from something else - for example, by folding out a sofa. Space in a camper is so limited that things need to transform into other things to save both space and weight. For instance, it's also pretty pointless to have a bed that simply folds into the wall... you still carry the weight of the bed but don't use that weight for anything other than sleeping. Your futon design is smart and functional. And listen - it only takes 1-2 minutes to set up your bed and the same to pack it away again. So, go for a bed/sofa combo! Greetings from Denmark!

You should have thrown that cheap chuck out to begin with. Testing it was irrelevant.

Having worked for many years in a shop with effectively no walls (garage door, concrete walls I wasn't willing to drill into), like you, I really value the wall space that I now have in my new shop. Lots and lots of great points about storage (as opposed to display). I had come to many of the same conclusions myself, but you've saved me much of the work of turning those notions into actual plans. I was already planning on building cubby holes for my handheld power tools, but now I'll be adding a set of mini cubby holes for my hand tools as well. Thanks!

Great vid, thanks for making. Why not mount the paper towel holder the other way round and slightly higher ? Looks like you have some space above the hammers to slide on/off. Thanks again.

This is so much better than what I’ve been doing. Thank you for sharing

This is a hot country problem. 🤪 I use the sun to heat up my car in the morning, for me, window covers are to keep heat inside, and black out for sleeping. I crack up my windows if it gets too hot. 😊

Brilliant, I'm glad I found your video! I tend to build similar to you, although, not to the extreme. I am about to venture into building in a tiny stand up camping trailer and want it as lightweight as possible and you have confirmed that I am headed in the right direction as well as several valuable construction tips and ideas. Thank you!

I like the way you think! By which I mean using logic and basic common sense! 😬👍🏆💯

How intelligent and kind❤

This is what I’ve been looking for- a how to organize the shop. I don’t have much wall space. The idea of storing things in those containers makes a lot of sense to me.

Thanks for the 40 percent reveal at 4 mins. into the video. I watched all though. I gave thumbs up.

Never wear gloves with a drill.

This guy has no idea what he is doing with that chuck or dial indicator ….bro just buy a bridge port if your trying to get a cheap drill press to be precision

Love how he’s trying to do thous of accuracy on a drill press, in wood. lol. What a clown

Search for "how to tram a mill" works for drill presses too. Then pin it with a taper pin that you can pull out.

Halfway Denver to Salt Lake…. My family is somewhere that fits that description!

How did this work for you now a year later,did you make any changes?

I like your idea's. 👍You have a Great camera assistant also. 😃👍

Great video thanks, setting mine up this weekend. What rolling base did you use?

Thanks for putting this together. It’s very humbling. Will bear things in mind when I get to build my van

Chucks are usualy not accurate and most I have used have that wobble, maybe some more expensive ones for mills are better but if you want to be sure, a collet system is the best.

Did you check the runout on your drill bit. As you know machinist use high quality chucks trying to get an object running true.

Chuck Precision (Runout Tolerance) Jacobs keyed drill chucks generally have high concentricity and low runout error. Runout Tolerance: Typically 0.002" (0.0508mm or less).

Man those drawers are amazing. would like to see a short video on that! oh and the runners.

How do you prevent the drawers from sliding out by themselves? Sorry if I missed that part.

What a brilliant mind and generous spirit of sharing.

Do never !!!! wear gloves at a drillpress! Never on any turning machine! In Germany its forbidden by law....

Is there a link for the wall mount kitchen faucet you have in your build? Haven’t been able to find one like that for sale online yet.. thanks!

Currently unavailable, oh well.

Its crazy they included such a low quality chuck with a drill press of that price.

Your using a drill in a 2 dollar chuck

Complains about inclusion of hex keys, immediately uses the conveniently included hex keys to assemble the tool. Hears newly assembled untested tool making concerning sound at low speed on initial startup, turns up to maximum speed. We are the same 😂

I'd expect a cobalt-steel drill bit to be as straight and precisely round as that linear-motion shaft, and the bit, near the shank, appeared to show about .002"-.0025" of total indicated runout--not all _that_ bad for an import chuck of unknown but likely middling quality, but, still, much more than you should have to tolerate. Importantly, when you indicated on the arbor it showed no runout, which suggests that the drivetrain is sound, at least in terms of concentricity (you really need to indicate on the _inside_ of the arbor, with the chuck removed, to gauge it). The arbor and components north of it become much more troublesome to correct, whereas the only thing south of the arbor, the chuck, is diagnosed and replaced fairly easily. Fortunately, the chuck appears to be the culprit here. But I'd strongly recommend replacing the chuck in any case. I replaced mine a few years ago, installing an Albrecht keyless in place of a standard Jacobs keyed chuck. Like you, I'd wanted to switch to a keyless model for a good while, just for sake of convenience, but I decided to undertake the operation when, after a few years of somewhat unsatisfactory performance, I detected some runout that upon close inspection was revealed to be the consequence of minor damage to one of the jaws. (The drill was ex-school-shop-class equipment. Who knows what it experienced in its time.) I knew the keyless chuck would be an improvement, but it transformed the ease and speed of use utterly, way beyond my expectations. I was only sorry I hadn't done it sooner. The difference is so significant that I'd urge you to upgrade the chuck now. The very first time you use it you will immediately recognize just how much drudgery the keyed chuck entailed. The time it takes to perform multi-bit operations, especially, will be cut in half. By the way, the new (to me) chuck eliminated the runout I'd observed with the old chuck, so that it was less than .001" at the distal end of a 5"-long bit. Albrechts are expensive, as you note, but I got mine on eBay, lightly used, for a great deal--between $50-$100 if I remember correctly. That was about five years ago, and things may have changed now, but at the time there were lots of deals to be had. I suppose you do take the risk that a used chuck has a flaw which, though only very slight, is enough to induce significant runout. But I considered the risk tolerable, and your judgment is very probably keen enough to assess the likely condition of a chuck based on its appearance and description. Additionally, you can even make arrangements with a seller as to the potential return of the item if it isn't within spec. It doesn't need to be an Albrecht, though; there are other reputable brands, like Röhm and Jacobs, which you can usually find cheaper, and there are also imports of reliably good quality.

The fact that the chuck undermines the precision of the machine is a huge disappointment. I think that you should contact the manufacturer. Please do a follow-up if you do. The awkwardness of leveling the table would frustrate me to no end. Instead of a simple pin, it could have used detent balls for 0°, 45°, and 90°. That design has proven to be remarkably accurate in other applications. Now I want to see what other manufacturers do. I will be sure to pay close attention to that feature when I replace my old piece of junk. Finally, the use of the touch screen worries me. I would rather analogue controls for the fundamentals - on, off, light, speed up, speed down. When, not if, the display fails, I can still judge the speed by feel or, if necessary, using a $25 handheld tachometer. I was wondering how you were going to get the crate off your truck. That was fun to watch.

You might try replacing the arbor. I had a similar issue on my drill press when I put on a keyless chuck and it turned out the chuck side of the arbor was slightly out of round so when the chuck was installed it was a bit “hit or miss”. I replaced the arbor and it went from +/- 0.015 to +/- 0.001.

I thought about doing this making my own element using nichrome wire and practically no electrical parts except maybe a relay or heavy duty switch. My design would be using a pipe like you have but running a screw through each end with one of the screws insulated (positive +) and the other screw soldered and sealed in place using the pipe itself as negative power ground. Make a coil like a spring stretched and attached to each screw to keep it centered in the pipe. Varying the number of turns or wire gauge to determine the resistance and therefore its wattage. Mounted vertically with a check valve on the incoming cold side would ensure that the element stays submerged.

This is a gorgeous build!

I live in the UK and chose to use 2020 aluminium profile which is 20mm x 20mm and plenty strong enough for my purposes. That is for a self-build micro-camper. Much more versatile than ply in that if things change - for example the fridge needs to be replaced and is a different size, then it it is pretty easy to rejig. Also much easier to handle if workshop space and equipment is very limited. It relies on good quality ply, and that is in very short supply over here in the UK. It also requires excellent joinery skills. As it happens I did train as a furniture maker, but then pursued a career as an architect so don't have access to big woodworking machines, just a tiny workshop with portable power tools and hand tools.