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Hi @KWCabs, Thanks for watching. It could be a few things. First of all, check your riving knife. It should be about half a millimeter thicker than the blade plate itself. (Not the kerf) If it's much thinner, and the material being cut starts to bind, it won't stop the material binding and wanting to lift, or even worse, be thrown back. If the material being ripped has stresses within the board it may want to bind on the back of the blade, if that were the case, it may want to lift. Unless i'm just ripping a small amount off the edge of a board, i will always use the short rip fence (on the K700 you would simply pull the fence back to half way along the blade). This will minimize the chance of the board being forced over into the blade (pushing the riving knife out of the way in the process) and causing the board to want to lift, and/or be forced back toward the user. Check too the position of the fence in relation to the blade. I actually have mine set virtually parallel with the blade, just a little bit open. Make sure though that it's not too much. It should be so little, that you will hear the teeth rub on the board as it goes past the teeth on the back of the blade. A universal blade is great for a few cuts ripping, a few cuts crosscutting, basically it's a do it all blade, but if you're needing to rip a bunch of material, pop a dedicated rip blade on. If i'm doing a bunch of ripping, i will use a 28T 315mm blade, but if the material being ripped is hard and/or thick, i will go for a 14T 315mm blade. Keep in mind that i typically rip all my material before processing it further. I hope this helps, but please let me know if anything i have suggested doesn't solve your problem, and i will have another try. :)

Thanks for watching @sefanrenser4328, I'm not sure which machine you're referring to. Can you elaborate on what you are seeing? Maybe it's at a different time in the video?

Hi kevin, thanks for watching. Those are great suggestions, especially the crazy dolly. I did have one that i used a lot with my old machine, especially in my old workshop. It was getting in my way in this shop and i started not using it but you can still see it in the video. Since this video i have refined how i load the sheetgoods onto the slider, and its really easy now to carefully lean them onto the slider straight out of the rack. The sheets i was cutting up were plywood, so pretty light compared to particle board or mdf! :) As for your suggestion of pulling the fence back, it can be done on this fence to a point, but the way the fence is designed to be taken off and used on the jointer, it doesn't pull as far back as a the fence on a dedicated saw, at least not without taking the little wheel off that helps it slide across the table. I could use the short rip fence, (which i do whenever i'm ripping solid wood) but have no issues ripping as i do in the video, Maybe that's a result of working on different types of saws over the last 40 years! :)

Thank you. In an effort to increase efficiency with space in the workshop, i am going to make a new one that will fit all my blades. It's a great design that allows me to change blades without putting them on the metal surfaces of the machine. Thanks for watching!

I'd have to check, i'm going to say it's 20 feet.

By cheating, i'm guessing you mean standing on the top step? :) Yeah they sure do! :) Good idea with the helmet. Considering all the evidence for how dangerous falls from ladders can be, i'm surprised it's not madatory on big sites. Hard hats are, but of course they're pretty much useless for a fall from a ladder. Thanks for watching!

Lol...I never thought of that! Yeah, I can say that I'm a big time cheater, and at 50....

I'm glad to hear you're ok after that fall. I've been lucky in the past myself with some falls off ladders. It happens so fast. These platform ladders are amazing for working off where it allows. Stay safe. :)

I think so too. It could read; Felder. I'm that one person who can't hold the fence up to the stop when locking it down! 🤪

Yeah i totally agree, but as i said in the video, for some reason i seem to be able to tighten it up with it off the stop. All user error of course, but this will eliminate that. If the pin is in the hole, the fence will be at 90 degrees.

@ Yeah. User error is a thing. I’ve cut critical angles forgetting to tighten the pivot bolt from underneath, and the angles still came out perfect.

@@bethoughtprovoking Oh i've done that too! 😆 Where i haven't had as much luck is when i tighten the Kipp lever, but forget to tighten the two black knobs that attach the aluminum part with the pins in it to the back of the fence. That's happened a couple of times for sure. 😊

👍🏝️🇨🇦

Wow, that's very kind. Thank you. I will keep trying to make better videos that are easier to watch. Thanks for watching!!

Asolutely right there! I honestly don't know why it's even an option, it should just be standard.

@ I spoke to the company about it, and they told me that in Europe dado cuts with saws aren’t that common. Personally, I don’t understand it; it’s such a versatile option.

@@bethoughtprovoking I totally agree. It's essentially just a different arbor with a filler piece when a saw blade is being used. Having the saw set up with the dado option gives you just that, options!

Maybe a little! 😊 I should have gone with the 10hp motors. It isn't too much of an issue, i can still take a 3mm cut off a 12" wide piece of oak when thickness planing or example, but more power would be nice! 😁

@ I was thinking more about shaping. That’s where you need horsepower for those stacked cutters. But, to be fair, anything at or over 7hp is adequate. Take care!

@@bethoughtprovoking Hang on a minute, are you saying you can actually have enough horespower? 🤣

@ You got me there!😂

Hi @BarrieStott, That's a bummer the retrofit scoring unit is no longer available. I actully just looked it up and it looks like the only scoring unit available is for 2007 machines and newer. :( I made up a couple of zero clearance table inserts with reasonable results. Perhaps a HiATB blade for your sheetgoods in combination with a zero clearance insert may be the ticket? I would probably use the ones i made more often, but i find it a drag to be constantly changing them out whenever i need to make a bevel cut. If i get time, i would like to make a couple more with very strong rare earth magnets so there is no need for screws when changing them out. As far as the blade drawers go, they are fantastic and well worth making. The fact that they keep the blades safe from banging into other blades etc. and well organized when they are stored is only half of why i like them so much. The fact that i take both the drawer with the blade i want to put on the saw, and the drawer for the blade i'm changing out, to the saw, means i have a nice surface to put the blades on in the process, ensuring i don't damage the blades or the table surface. Thanks for watching!

I was pretty unhappy about the lack of scoring when I collected the machine. I had committed myself to buying the machine but the seller hadn’t been totally honest with me. The machine cost just £2,500 and I spent another £600 on the refurb. I’ve got a lot of machine and my wife wouldn’t have been happy had I spent more. The machine is great and works well for me. Yes, I do need to try zero clearance. Thanks again

Thanks for watching and for the feedback. I haven't ever had an issue with the adjustment screw loosening off myself. Maybe i'm just heavy handed when tightening things up? 😆 I like your idea of leaving the clamp part on, i will have to try it when i'm at work! Thanks for the tip!!!

@betthoughtprovoking, thank you for adding that. That's a really good point! Just one more reason why insert tooling is so darn good!

Thank you for watching! I use a thin kerf blade on my 12" mitre saw and have used them on my 10" job site table saw. There are probably only 2 real downsides to them that i can think of right now. Blade deflection is the main one, as they definitely flex more than a thicker blade. The other one is the carbide teeth are so small they don't hold up to as much abuse and will chip and even break off more easily. (Just my experience, but others may have different experience with that) Back to deflection; that's where a good quality saw blade comes in. Apart from a lesser quality of carbide (and much less of it) on the cheaper blades, the plate is often not as good on a cheap blades. Whether that's due to them not being hardened to save money, or not being hardened as well i couldn't say, but i think those are just a couple of reasons why there's a big difference in price between blades.

Hi David, thanks for watching. I haven't yet tried that blade, but it does sound like a great blade for a lot of things. I was seriously considering one for a while but ended up passing after i heard something that made me think it wouldn't work for my use case. I don't remember what that was though now. I might have to look into it again to make sure it wasn't just the cost! 😉

@ yeah the cost is quite high for a blade and I don’t have it long enough to vouch for its longevity but over a year so far on my k740s and the only other blade I use is a 400mm ripping blade when breaking out 2 inch hardwoods etc, but it’s definitely a good finish in all manmade boards with a good clean top cut and better than average quality bottom cut , so if both sides of a piece are seen I’d still use the scoring blade. Perfect top and bottom cuts in solid wood and smooth surface. Look after yourself and see you in the next one!

@@Davidcarroll38 Aha, thanks David, yeah that might have been it. The need for the scorer still. (I would still love one though! 😂)

Happy New Year to you too. All the best. Thanks for watching.

Для снятия стола использую специальную тележку. Тогда это просто сделать одному.

@@АртемГолдобин-з5х Me too. It makes it really easy and fast! Thank you for watching.

To be totally honest, i don't remember. I believe they are set up for an open joint of less than .5mm over a 2m length from the factory, but i don't remember what mine was like. A small open joint isnt what i would consider a bad thing especially if its less than .5mm over 2m.

@@brycecomerwoodworksDid you end up commissioning your jointer? Thx

@@tundrawhisperer4821 All i really did was adjust the outfeed table ever so slightly. I also adjusted the infeed and outfeed rollers of the thicknesser.

I don’t think you should be getting a spring joint, or, at least, it shouldn’t be of noticeable consequence. I have the Dual 51, but I’ve come to realize that all Felder machines can be tuned to perfection. That said, when I joint large slabs, say for dining tables, I hardly ever have trouble getting an invisible glue line.

@@bethoughtprovoking I'm with you there.

This is as big as they get, and considering they can be ordered in all sorts of configurations, there's generally a size that works for anyone's needs. Thanks for watching!!

I'm glad you found it informative. Thank you for watching.

Hi PK, thanks for the feedback. The RL200 is definitely better with the higher horsepower motor, and double the filter area. I can run everything open at the same time and it still works well. Better when i have just two or three gates to machines open though. I need to have at least that to make sure i'm not choking it!

That's fantastic, thank you! Thanks for watching. :)

Thank you!! Happy New Year to you too!

Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!!

It sure is a lot of space hey! :) Thankfully taking the outrigger off gains me a huge amount of it back. I tried and tried to make a separate jointer planer work in the space, but it's so darn narrow that it just wouldn't work. If i could somehow make a beam me up Scotty system to get up to the office, lathe and stock on the mezanine, i could get rid of the stairs and gain some space that way. I haven't figure that out yet though! 😆 Thanks for watching!!

@brycecomerwoodworks when you figure that one out please share! But I will admit that I would probably use it for somewhere else than the shop!

@@donovan90 😂

Если брать отдельный фуганок, его место займет расширитель стола и в итоге площадь занимаемая двумя отдельными станками будет больше. Чтоб обеспечить большее пространство у фуганка я использую колеса и перемещаю станок когда это действительно необходимо.

Thank you, and thanks for watching.

Thank you! And thanks for watching. :)

Thank you for watching.

That's where the spiral cutterhead really comes into its own. The tearout is dramatically reduced with it compared to a straight knife cutterhead. Sure wish i had the space for a wide belt sander though! 😆

@ for sure. I have an AD941 with a spiral block. Works fine in 95% of the material I use. But once you get close to a knot or have quarter sawn grain, the widebelt becomes to go to. Check out the FW850. It’s reasonably sized and I’ve been happy with it so far.

@@HybridWoodworks That's really interesting. What species give you the most tear out? I must be honest, i can't say i have too much tear out with any quarter sawn materials i typically use, but maybe i need to pay closer attention. As for the FW850 widebelt. It looks like a lovely machine with a really small footprint, however a lot of the doors i build are 44, 46, even 48" wide, so i would need to go up to the Format 4 line, or any of the multitude of other widebelts out there. That's where the problem arises. They take up a lot of space that i just don't have. I have managed to get away without one so far, and likely will need to continue to do so. That won't stop me from wishing i had one though! 😆

@@brycecomerwoodworks I use a lot of red oak, which can get tear out now and then. A wide belt to handle doors that size would be 100K easily. Ideally you would want to pass the finished piece through in one shot, but the FW850 is nice for sanding all of the components before glue up. Certainly far easier than doing it all by hand.

@@HybridWoodworks And a lot better results than from the drum sander i have and use from time to time! :) I actually tend to just aim for very precise joinery and then the final sand isn't too big a deal. I've been eying up a used FW950 for a while, but can't bring myself to pull the trigger, mainly due the the limited space i have.

I am indeed. 😁

Thank you, and thanks for watching!!!

😆A Giant Trance. It's a mountain bike. Lots of mountain biking here where i live.

Great! I’m a woodworker too and a biker. I will stop in the middle and f a job just like that and say “it’s time for a ride”.

@@andrewflint990 Nice! That's what glue ups are for right? 😆

Thanks for watching! It's funny hey. What some find to be a space to die for, i find very small. I guess that's coming from working in much bigger spaces over the years. Actually the really limiting factor of this space is how narrow it is.

@@brycecomerwoodworks…Mate I’m telling you here in the UK a great space is regarded as having a single bay garage but I agree it’s what you are used to 👍 keep it coming, your video’s are brilliant !

@@AfricanSouthernCross Thank you, that's really nice feedback! I will keep working to make them even better in the future. :)

Thank you for watching. The CF741 is 3 phase. My last machine, the CF531 was single phase and it was a great machine. I only had single phase power in my old shop though, so it made sense. I have 3 phase in the new shop though, so going 3 phase when i ordered the new machine was a no brainer.

Thanks, and thank you for watching, and the positive feedback. I still have that mitre saw, but have finally found a half decent radial arm saw for all my docking of boards. I still need to fine tune it a bit, but it is really nice to use a proper saw like it for docking material to its rough length instead of the mitre saw. Hopefully you will see it in an upcoming video.

Thanks for watching. The wood species is Douglas fir. It is also quarter sawn, so lovely straight grain. I certainly could have ripped the 45 on the slider, you just need to hold it down perfectly to make sure you get the perfect cut. Not really that hard to do, especially when you clamp the ends, but if there's a chance of messing something up, then i'd probably do it! 😉

You're right, yes. Dado stack with the slider for the stub tenons. You could also do it with a couple of groovers stacked in the shaper though. As for the dominos. I typically try to get them as close to centered as i can, but don't necessarily fuss too much. I just make sure i'm referencing off the same face for all the joinery. Any regular thickness passage doors i typically use 14mm dominos. For thicker entrance doors, i will use a couple of rows of 14mm dominos. I'm sure i would use a Festool DF500 if i had one, but i only have the 700, and bought it primarily for doors. Thanks for watching!!😃

@ Great, Thx! I own the DF500, but I’ve used a friends 700 and it has its place for sure!

@@brycecomerwoodworksWhat length were the 14mm dominos for this door? Thx Bryce

@@tundrawhisperer4821 I'll have to check when i get to work, but i'm going to say 120mm. What ever they are, they're the longest you can use.

From memory I think that was a top for a kind of sideboard piece.

You won't regret it. It will also be a lot easier on the K700 with the rail running the full width. I actually have some ideas for mine that i'm going to look into further when i am off work after hip surgery in a few weeks. Thanks for watching!!

@ Wish you well with the hip surgery. For milling the column planks, have you ever used the slider to make your bevel cuts, since it’s a straight line rip? Which type of tape did you use to fold your miters? I’ve always just seen the clear packing tape used. Thx

@@tundrawhisperer4821 I have used the slider before yes. It will give you a nice straight edge, you just need to make sure the board is nice and flat against the slider for the entire cut. I typically just use masking tape. Nothing special, just the 3M stuff i get from my supplier.

@@brycecomerwoodworks Yes having the plank lay completely flat to the slider bed is key. I use a “strong back” on top of the plank which is held down tight with the Air-tight clamps. It’s a fast way to do it. Thx

@@tundrawhisperer4821 Brilliant! Good thinking.

Thats fantastic! So good you picked it up before you turned them all. There sure is nothing like being able to see something & take measurements yourself! I don't do as much turning as i used to, there simply isn't the call for it these days, well not for the likes of balusters, rosettes (or as you call them Roundels (a name i've not heard used for them before)), newel posts etc. so nowadays i'm typically doing reproduction for older homes on the lathe, and not so much new stuff. Overall, it's a much smaller part of my workday than it used to be 30 or 40 years ago. I assume you are still getting out in the workshop in your retirement? I'm not sure i will ever be able to fully retire. I still love it even after all these years. Oh, and there's that other thing too. When it comes to business, i'm a really good wood machinist!! 😅

@. Thanks for the prompt reply. We all have names for the things we do, for me, roundels are domes and rosettes are carved like a flower. That’s why, maybe, it’s best to either see the original or have a sample. Yes I still do a little turning, but am now in the happy place where I can choose what I do. I do spend one day a week teaching at a local school, I’m passionate about passing on the skills which are in danger now that CNC is dominating the industry. Hand turning has a crispness that machine work lacks, and to some customers that’s essential. It’s all down to cost these days.

@@mergrew0110 Ah gotcha! That makes perfect sense. That's fantastic that you're passing on your skills. While turning bowls are something that a lot of hobby turners do, i feel like the skill of turning between centers is being lost, especially as you say with the advent of CNC lathes. While they are getting better, i totally agree that they can't compare to a good hand turned piece. Sure it's about cost sometimes, but i also think that people's tastes have changed. Thank you for keeping the trade alive!! Regards, Bryce

Thank you, and thanks for watching. I have filmed some video on the panelling, but haven't yet put it together. It may not show everything you're asking though so i'll try to explain here. The panelling was all fixed to 1/2" ply that i fixed directly to the studs. It involved fixing the 1x4's to the ply, then adding a 3/16" or 5mm thick VG fir ply in between. Then i simply cut and glued/nailed the mouldings. I am due to have my hip replaced in the coming weeks so should have time to put some videos together then. Even if i don't get it done then, i should get it done when i have the other one replaced in April! 😅

Thanks for watching, and thanks for the tip, i might have to try to get my hands on some!

Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching. Hope it helps you get some repeatability.

Yes it sure is. You sure don't find it like this in the second growth stuff, has to be old growth. Thanks for watching!!

I totally agree. Wide and long is ultimately the best. While it's nice to have the 16" or 400mm cutting width, it is really useful being able to extend the bed with the 500mm cast iron extensions. I find i use them very often since i do a lot of jointing on boards longer than 8 feet or 2400mm. I typically joint with the convex edge up, but not always and there are definitely times where i go with the convex edge down. Thanks for watching!

@@brycecomerwoodworks How do you like the European style insert head? Do they have less cutters then a typical bryd head? I think the Byrd head has a depth of cut 3/32. I have a Bryd head in my planer it’s okay I’m on my 3rd set of carbide. Insert heads start cutting funky over time,mine have.

@@augustwest8559 I haven't used the Byrd head myself, although i have used a very similar head from Sheartak. I did like the Sheartak head, it gave good results on figured wood and wood with difficult grain, however i did find the planer seemed a little underpowered when i changed from the 4 knife tersa style head to it, and had to limit my depth of cut to about 1.5mm on a 12" wide board. Now with the Silent Power head in the new machine (Felder's own insert head), i can honestly say it is hands down miles better than the other head. The inserts seem to be placed at a better angle & give a much better shearing cut which produces a better finish. I can take a much bigger cut with the new machine too, but it also has a more powerful motor, so i can't compare it to the old machine fairly. As for the carbide, well i do believe there is a difference in the quality. I was happy with the old inserts from Sheartak, but expect the Felder ones to be better. So far i think they seem to hold a sharper edge, and after almost 12 months of use, i am still super careful not to cut myself on them.