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I’m referring to 6.1L Cylinder heads 😄 I have ARH long tubes on the car currently 🤞🏼 the new heads will bump compression, flow 50+ CFM over the stock pre eagle heads, the valve seat and spring issues are no longer a worry, and such. It’s similar to swapping Eagle heads onto a non-VVT 5.7L block

Yessir, they last and hold up well. They’re 304 stainless 🤞🏼 the cheap ones that are made of cheap metal will give out on ya, but something like these American Racing Headers will last. The $300-400 ones are Chinese made, the primaries are not equal length, the metal is cheap (will rust, bend, and crack), and fitment can be an issue. With a $1600-1800 pair (that’s base cost for the headers, no o2 extensions or anything else) are typically 304 stainless, primaries are equal length, they discolor from heat cycles like any other stainless but they won’t rust, they don’t bend easily at all, and they’re very quality. I scraped one time coming out of a parking garage, the lip was huge and when the front tires dropped the car bounced and the long tubes smacked and scraped. There’s a tiny tiny mark where you can see that they scraped, but no dent or anything. I was impressed.

@@Underdogbuilds And do the cars last aswell? Say if i get a chrysler 06 with like 100k miles It would last me a while or na

But for a stock 300c

and tbh i don’t got nobody around me with a mopar or diablosport so i just try to get information from other creators

yo bro another question can the obd port on your tuner unplug? Ive seen some that come off and they say thats the platinum one but i bought the "platinum" one am i missing out or?

Yessir yessir, Diablo tuners will offer canned tunes with slight performance gains, but a custom tune from an experienced tuner will net you more power. (And a trans tune always helps as well)

It depend on your specific vehicle, with everything stock ~2,000-2,500 RPM is one of the best spots to shift. I typically shift between 2,500-3,000 RPM due to the RPM band being different than stock with my long tubes. Shifting under load is best for automatic transmissions, so try to shift while on the throttle. With the downshifts, i typically slap the stick to the left and right after smacking it or in the middle of the motion I’ll slightly stab/pat the gas. After you tap the downshift it typically take a little second, there’s a big of lag between your input and the car actually down shifting. Accounting for that and tapping the gas slightly after (when you feel like it about to actually shift and jump in RPM) is the best way to get a perfect rev matched downshift

@@Underdogbuilds Thanks, I got a stock 06 300c 5.7

Yessirrr!! How’s she sound? I absolutely love my first drive with long tubes 😮‍💨

I will be, the Flowmaster system is a 2.5” catback, it’s being replaced with a 3” SLP catback that I have sitting around. The flowmaster system is from before 2010 and is still in place currently. The sound produced by the car is due to the long tubes, the flowmaster system sounded very quiet with stock exhaust manifolds.

dont get me wrong i maintain my truck from oil changes to trans service to rear end fluids myself

Yeah the manual says 7500-10k which out of the 5 hemi 5.7 platforms we own the oldest one 2007 commander at 200k I got lazy and followed that 7500-10k and that oil vs 3500-5k looked like I was charging oil on my 6.7 Cummins before it was deleted. And funny thing is that's the only one of the 5 that has a rear main seal leak but no surprise as dirty oil kills seals as well as lifters and cams . These newer synthetic oils might lubricate for 10k plus but it still doesn't change the fact the oil gets dirty . I use the 5w20 full synthetic despite the oil change intervals still being about what I'd do with regular Dino oil because the pour point of full synthetic is much lower than regular oil which if you've ever poured oil into the filler after an oil change it should be obvious that even temps well below 32 the synthetic is far less viscous and pours through the funnel just as easy as it does on a 90 degree day ... regular oil not so much despite having the same 5w20 viscosity rating .

I got the steering wheel from Zen Carbon Fiber. They’re customizable to your liking as well! They recently started making the shift knob for these cars too if that interests you. Check them out at zencarbonfiber.com

Yessir, it is believed that the lack of lubrication at Idle and low RPM operation is at least partially to blame. An upgraded oil pump could be beneficial for sure. @ReignitedAuto has an in depth video specifically touching on this subject, I recommend that you give it a watch 😄 As for the lifters, that depends on a couple of things. If you plan to install a non MDS camshaft or just simply delete MDS it would be beneficial to grab some heavy duty non-mds lifters (non-MDS lifters can only be used if MDS is deleted or disabled within a tune). I will say I personally have stuck to OEM lifters from Mopar, but some folks have been talking about “Isky” lifters. I cannot attest to them, but I have heard good things. It may be worth doing some research about them and weighing them against the OEM lifters. Non-MDS lifters will not be able to be installed if you retain MDS. I hope this helps!! Oh, and if someone says “get hellcat lifters”, they’re referring to the heavy duty non-MDS lifters, they’re ran in the hellcats. I wanted to mention that because many many people will say “go get “hellcat” lifters!”

@@Underdogbuildsthank you i appreciate it.

You’ve got a point there! 😂 I do love those Coyote motors, that 11:1+ CR is gnarly!

Yessirrr, I stayed in Louisville for some years! One of my favorite places 😄

Hey man, sorry that I just saw this. Thats awesome, those 6.1L intake manifolds are great! Hopefully I can help you out with whatever issues you’re coming across. What’s going on with her currently and is she throwing any codes? 😄

That sounds like a steal! Hopefully it’s a simple fix and she’ll be back on the road in no time! Sorry for the late reply, I just saw this. Did you end up grabbing it? I’m curious to see if you diagnosed the issue 🙂🤞🏼

@@Underdogbuilds yea I did it for 1k 😂 but yea I ran the codes and it’s U1120 and jus has the abs light in and doesn’t go up to like 4th or 3rd gear other then tht runs and starts good

If you’re confident, give it a try! Many of the things I’ve done had to be learned along the way, it’s most definitely rewarding when it’s all said and done 🙂 I know tasks seem daunting, but starting off with smaller things and working your way up is a great way to teach yourself! I will admit, if something goes sideways, I’ll take it to a professional before trying something that I’m not confident in doing at all. (Such as extracting a broken bolt/stud from a recessed hole, that’s not my cup of tea and I would hate to destroy a perfectly good block that costs $1,300+) Thank you for taking the time to watch my video 🙏😁

The t-stat that I pulled last about a year and 3 months(ish), it was working fantastic until this vlog. It started sticking badly, but by the next day it completely stuck shut. I’m grateful it didn’t stick shut in the car. The car was in storage for ~3 months due to the cold season, so I’d say it lasted about a year. I’ve had folks tell me about their Motorad failing twice in one summer though, I wish quality could be improved a bit. The oem thermostats typically don’t fail, but my oem 203° thermostat actually got stuck open when I bought the car a couple years ago from the stealership

😂😭 my buddy was telling me how horrible those transmissions were. That twin turbo yote would’ve demolished a MT-82. 😮‍💨 I wonder if he had a built transmission or if he had it turned down from wild to mild 🤔