Haha, yessir! It all depends on how you move and the network you’ve built for yourself! 😁🤞🏼 (and of course your driving style, but with long tube headers…. Who can resist WOT? 😂✊🏻)
Bigger brakes don’t always mean better for those that don’t know in some cases it takes a while for brakes to heat which means they aren’t up to their peak performance and drilled and slotted just helps with heat reduction.
Aye, just getting around to watching this. Awesome vid man. Straight to the point, with the facts. Love seeing my car from time to time in other people's videos as well lmaoo
I appreciate you! 🙂 working on more content and improving content as well! This is just the beginning. New video will be out by the end of the weekend😃🙏
My current exhaust set-up in these videos is 1 3/4” x 3” American racing headers long tube headers, catless mids, and a chopped up 2.5” flowmaster catback shoved inside the mids. I have a 3” system sitting at home waiting for install this spring. Gonna bring it to an exhaust shop and have a bung welded on for an afr gauge before install
It will work on a 08 5.7L for sure, the features are listed below: Steering Wheel shifting(SWS): Allows you to use your steering wheel’s volume+/- and page up/down buttons to manually control gear shift while keeping your hands on the wheel. SWS mode is enabled after placing the vehicle in AutoStick mode using the console shifter. Once in Autostick, use the volume buttons to shift! This feature can be enabled or disabled at any time using the steering wheel buttons. AutoUpshift: Set your own shift points when in AutoStick - Using the cruise stalk or ZPU Utility, dial in any RPM for upshifts in AutoStick mode - perfect for high-power high-revving track use. Ideal for use with Mopar Performance TCM - which does not have Auto upshift feature, or in conjunction with a DiabloSport tuner which can disable Auto upshift on stock TCMs. Line Lock Mode: Push the cruise control stalk while stopped in Autostick, and the ABS internal valves will hold the vehicle with the front brakes so you can hit the gas and do a perfect burnout. The vehicle will not roll until you let go of the cruise stalk. Great for the track or just for fun. Burnout Mode: Pull the cruise control stalk while stopped in Autostick, and the ABS pump will hold the vehicle with the front brakes so you can hit the gas and do a perfect burnout without even having to pump brake up first. Launch Mode: Pull the High Beam stalk while stopped in Autostick, and the ABS valves will hold the vehicle with the all 4 brakes so you can have the perfect launch at the track. Peak RPM Display: Will display actual shift RPMs after each shift - great when adjusting Auto upshift to squeeze every last bit out of that high revving cam, or to check what RPM you hit when shifting manually. 0 to 30 and 0 to 60 Timer: Will display 0 to 30 and 0 to 60 times on EVIC display. 1/8 Mile and 1/4 Mile Timer: Will display 1/8 Mile or 1/4 Mile times on EVIC display. Transmission Temperature Display: Has the ability to display transmission temperature on EVIC screen. No special scan tool required for transmission fluid changes anymore! Transmission Status Display: Has the ability to display current gear and torque converter clutch status on EVIC screen. ESP On: Will reset and re-enable ESP system at your command without having to turn the car off. Perfect for R/T owners that use a NoESP mod or “key trick”. Reset Adaptives: Will reset TCM adaptives any time you wish with a simple pull of the cruise and high beam stalks. Kill Adaptives: Keep the transmission responding as if you just reset the adaptives. This mode keeps the adaptives from ruining responsiveness. Enable/disable at any time by the simple pull of the cruise and high beam stalks for 3 seconds. Clear CELs*: Have some other mods that are setting your Check Engine Light a bit too often? This handy feature lets you clear the light and the codes with a simple EVIC menu item. MDS Indicator*: 2005-2007 don’t have an indicator to tell you when MDS system is in action - this function will light up the security light on your dash when MDS is live. Can be enabled/disabled via EVIC. Auxiliary output*: Pull the cruise control stalk and press the page up/down buttons on the steering wheel, and an AUX pin on the tranzformer can control an external relay, for just about any purpose. Use it to control your nav/movie screen, open exhaust cutouts, enable your NoS system, etc. I think it’s an amazing deal just due to the display of transmission temperature, line lock, launch control, and the kill adaptive features.
This depends on many factors. The owner of said 5.7L HEMI would need to decide how intense of a cam they would like, figure in a tq converter is needed or if the stock converter will do, theyll have to see if valve springs need to be upgraded, same with push rods, and more. MDS cams will work with the stock lifters but a non-mds cam will require a MSD/DOD delete. the chop is most likely going to be there but tuning plays a huge factor as well. i hope i answered your question well, have a blessed day!
So I’m looking to put a first real mod on and I’m wondering should I go with headers or something else for the first thing that ain’t to yo expensive or would long tube headers on a stock 5.7 be ok and still give me a gain
Long tube headers will net use some power being otherwise stock, and without a tune. This whole season, I ran a tune that did not account for the headers, I could have seen more power and torque, along with a return of low end torque, but I chose to wait on a tuneup until this upcoming 2024 season. If You look on my Instagram page, you can see the difference between my buddies C that is lightly modified and my C that is long tubes, a thermostat, a canned tune, and not much else power wise. It is pinned to the top of my profile if you would like to go check it out. 😄 headers is where many people start but getting a cam in the car typically only costs about $1,000 more. I started with headers myself so I can’t speak otherwise, haha! Thank you for tuning in! (Also, they will 100% be okay 🙂 I had a very reputable shop tell me a tune is unnecessary)
I honestly haven’t bypassed the check engine light yet. With my Catless mids I did opt to grab the o2 extensions so they can register, but I still have a check engine light for each bank letting me know I’m killing the planet with my exhaust. You can get an email tune that you can download to your Diablo and upload to the car from any tuner, but Diablo does have some notable tuners. (300Cforums has extensive write up on a bunch of tuners you could contact) Or you could have a tuner local to you bypass it in the tune/turn off the rear o2s so the light goes away. It pulls some timing having the lights on for the o2 sensors but it’s not too noticeable and idles not rough or anything. I’ve seen some cars do that. I need to get tuned in for the long tubes and get that light turned off though. I plan on doing it with the camshaft in the near-ish future.
That makes absolutely no sense. If you choose to modify your car, that’s your decision. Do you understand how many of these videos are across the internet? That’s absolute nonsense. If your server gives advice on what meal to get off the menu, do you expect them to pay because you don’t like it?
Just got a 2006 Chrysler. I’m excited
Saving these vids in case whwnever i get a chrysler 300c (one from 2005-10)
Appreciate you man! And if you end up getting a 2009+ model with a VVT Eagle 5.7L motor, I cover those as well. 🙂
Oh nicee
I want to buy one soon. Hopefully maybe if it gets boosted it will be from a hellcat blower haha
Literally 🤦🏿♂️✍🏿👌🏿
"Some people can. Depends on how you moooove honestly"
Realest statement on no cat driving frfr
Haha, yessir! It all depends on how you move and the network you’ve built for yourself! 😁🤞🏼 (and of course your driving style, but with long tube headers…. Who can resist WOT? 😂✊🏻)
Bigger brakes don’t always mean better for those that don’t know in some cases it takes a while for brakes to heat which means they aren’t up to their peak performance and drilled and slotted just helps with heat reduction.
Aye, just getting around to watching this. Awesome vid man. Straight to the point, with the facts. Love seeing my car from time to time in other people's videos as well lmaoo
Had to subscribe after watching this
I appreciate you! 🙂 working on more content and improving content as well! This is just the beginning. New video will be out by the end of the weekend😃🙏
Did you have to tune it when you put the cold Air in intake?
It wasn’t necessary but there are tunes that account for cold air intakes 🙂🫱🏻🫲🏼
What exhaust are you running I want my 07 rt like that mine is all original
My current exhaust set-up in these videos is 1 3/4” x 3” American racing headers long tube headers, catless mids, and a chopped up 2.5” flowmaster catback shoved inside the mids. I have a 3” system sitting at home waiting for install this spring. Gonna bring it to an exhaust shop and have a bung welded on for an afr gauge before install
So does the Z auto motive taser work in a 08 5.7? If so are you also able to get the SRT settings to put it in track mode ect?
It will work on a 08 5.7L for sure, the features are listed below:
Steering Wheel shifting(SWS): Allows you to use your steering wheel’s volume+/- and page up/down buttons to manually control gear shift while keeping your hands on the wheel. SWS mode is enabled after placing the vehicle in AutoStick mode using the console shifter. Once in Autostick, use the volume buttons to shift! This feature can be enabled or disabled at any time using the steering wheel buttons.
AutoUpshift: Set your own shift points when in AutoStick - Using the cruise stalk or ZPU Utility, dial in any RPM for upshifts in AutoStick mode - perfect for high-power high-revving track use. Ideal for use with Mopar Performance TCM - which does not have Auto upshift feature, or in conjunction with a DiabloSport tuner which can disable Auto upshift on stock TCMs.
Line Lock Mode: Push the cruise control stalk while stopped in Autostick, and the ABS internal valves will hold the vehicle with the front brakes so you can hit the gas and do a perfect burnout. The vehicle will not roll until you let go of the cruise stalk. Great for the track or just for fun.
Burnout Mode: Pull the cruise control stalk while stopped in Autostick, and the ABS pump will hold the vehicle with the front brakes so you can hit the gas and do a perfect burnout without even having to pump brake up first.
Launch Mode: Pull the High Beam stalk while stopped in Autostick, and the ABS valves will hold the vehicle with the all 4 brakes so you can have the perfect launch at the track.
Peak RPM Display: Will display actual shift RPMs after each shift - great when adjusting Auto upshift to squeeze every last bit out of that high revving cam, or to check what RPM you hit when shifting manually.
0 to 30 and 0 to 60 Timer: Will display 0 to 30 and 0 to 60 times on EVIC display.
1/8 Mile and 1/4 Mile Timer: Will display 1/8 Mile or 1/4 Mile times on EVIC display.
Transmission Temperature Display: Has the ability to display transmission temperature on EVIC screen. No special scan tool required for transmission fluid changes anymore!
Transmission Status Display: Has the ability to display current gear and torque converter clutch status on EVIC screen.
ESP On: Will reset and re-enable ESP system at your command without having to turn the car off. Perfect for R/T owners that use a NoESP mod or “key trick”.
Reset Adaptives: Will reset TCM adaptives any time you wish with a simple pull of the cruise and high beam stalks.
Kill Adaptives: Keep the transmission responding as if you just reset the adaptives. This mode keeps the adaptives from ruining responsiveness. Enable/disable at any time by the simple pull of the cruise and high beam stalks for 3 seconds.
Clear CELs*: Have some other mods that are setting your Check Engine Light a bit too often? This handy feature lets you clear the light and the codes with a simple EVIC menu item.
MDS Indicator*: 2005-2007 don’t have an indicator to tell you when MDS system is in action - this function will light up the security light on your dash when MDS is live. Can be enabled/disabled via EVIC.
Auxiliary output*: Pull the cruise control stalk and press the page up/down buttons on the steering wheel, and an AUX pin on the tranzformer can control an external relay, for just about any purpose. Use it to control your nav/movie screen, open exhaust cutouts, enable your NoS system, etc.
I think it’s an amazing deal just due to the display of transmission temperature, line lock, launch control, and the kill adaptive features.
Does the cam need tune and or spring and most important does it chop?
This depends on many factors. The owner of said 5.7L HEMI would need to decide how intense of a cam they would like, figure in a tq converter is needed or if the stock converter will do, theyll have to see if valve springs need to be upgraded, same with push rods, and more. MDS cams will work with the stock lifters but a non-mds cam will require a MSD/DOD delete. the chop is most likely going to be there but tuning plays a huge factor as well. i hope i answered your question well, have a blessed day!
So I’m looking to put a first real mod on and I’m wondering should I go with headers or something else for the first thing that ain’t to yo expensive or would long tube headers on a stock 5.7 be ok and still give me a gain
Long tube headers will net use some power being otherwise stock, and without a tune. This whole season, I ran a tune that did not account for the headers, I could have seen more power and torque, along with a return of low end torque, but I chose to wait on a tuneup until this upcoming 2024 season. If You look on my Instagram page, you can see the difference between my buddies C that is lightly modified and my C that is long tubes, a thermostat, a canned tune, and not much else power wise. It is pinned to the top of my profile if you would like to go check it out. 😄 headers is where many people start but getting a cam in the car typically only costs about $1,000 more. I started with headers myself so I can’t speak otherwise, haha! Thank you for tuning in! (Also, they will 100% be okay 🙂 I had a very reputable shop tell me a tune is unnecessary)
How you bypass the catless like check engine can you show your set up please
I honestly haven’t bypassed the check engine light yet. With my Catless mids I did opt to grab the o2 extensions so they can register, but I still have a check engine light for each bank letting me know I’m killing the planet with my exhaust.
You can get an email tune that you can download to your Diablo and upload to the car from any tuner, but Diablo does have some notable tuners. (300Cforums has extensive write up on a bunch of tuners you could contact)
Or you could have a tuner local to you bypass it in the tune/turn off the rear o2s so the light goes away.
It pulls some timing having the lights on for the o2 sensors but it’s not too noticeable and idles not rough or anything. I’ve seen some cars do that. I need to get tuned in for the long tubes and get that light turned off though. I plan on doing it with the camshaft in the near-ish future.
Also, I will do a full video on my exhaust set-up 100%, it’ll be soon as well because I’ve had quite a few requests on it!
@@Underdogbuilds located in Mn?
Put some non foulers on your o2 sensors that'll help the check engine light not to come on.
💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
I appreciate you family🙏🫱🏻🫲🏼
@@Underdogbuilds no problem..hey if you don’t mind can you subscribe 🙏🏾content coming soon
So when someone blows an engine because of your advice to "mod" their engine, you're gonna pay the bill?
That makes absolutely no sense. If you choose to modify your car, that’s your decision. Do you understand how many of these videos are across the internet? That’s absolute nonsense.
If your server gives advice on what meal to get off the menu, do you expect them to pay because you don’t like it?
If I told u my mod list seems like you'd blownyour engine just reading it 😂
what if engine blows without any mods, who will pay that
these mods are sweet water if no over rpm, only what can destroy it are forced induction and nitrous