First thing in any high mileage hemi should be replace the oil pump with either a Hellcat or Melling HV oil pump as well as replace the junk factory lifters with the Isky bushing type lifters!
I completely agree. This video isn’t based strictly on high milage examples. Some folks who have reached out in my direct messages have 20k miles and want to start modifying their car but don’t want to do anything very intense. I recommend every pre-eagle owner to address the issues with the heads at the very least. A couple of my other videos speak on replacing lifters, installing an upgraded oil pump, replacing the water pump, and more. Interestingly, Some people refuse to get rid of MDS and limit themselves with lifter choices. I touched on this in my how to “bulletproof” a 5.7L HEMI video. 🫱🏻🫲🏼😄 This was a low quality video that needs to be revised; however, I have a video coming on this subject “what to consider when building a higher mileage HEMI”. I appreciate you tuning in man, Have a great day!
@@Underdogbuilds I’m just paranoid of these lifters, as an Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep service advisor/manager for numerous years and owning an 06CSRT, as I’ve seen them fail as soon as 20k miles. I’m on my 4th set of lifters and 3rd cam at this point. On the last failure I went with a total rebuild into a 426 with the Melling HV oil pump and the Isky bushing lifters and that engine has never been more quiet!
Mannnn, me and you both! I’m paranoid as hell, haha. I appreciate you, your knowledge, and your expertise! It’s insane how early these lifters can fail, I wish they would have installed a high volume oil pump from factory in the 09+ models at least! 4 sets of lifters and 3 camshafts is most definitely some real world data if I’ve ever seen it. Those 426 Ci motors are monsters 😮💨 I’ll definitely be grabbing a high pressure high volume pump for ~$200! Could you possibly link those Isky lifters if you have time man? I would love to check them out! I’ll most likely grab some this spring to throw in the car.
I would love for my HEMI to quiet down a bit, especially with that header ping, haha! It sounds like you’ve found the perfect combo for these HEMIs😄 are you running 5w-20 for oil? I’ve heard of many people running a couple different weights. I stick to the good ol’ 5w-20 but I’m genuinely curious.
Yessirrr, haha. Spend once, cry once has saved me a bit of money! And thank you man, I really appreciate it! I wish you the best of luck with the 2012 300C, I’ve got more videos coming including more mods and going a tad bit more in depth in some things! From mods that help at the drag strip or for racing to How to make a 5.7L HEMI as quick as a hellcat. Have a blessed day!🙏🤞🏼😄
09:44 i have thermostat that is opened at 88C and fans are set to start at 96C and still if outside temp is over 30C , at 200km/h on highway, end temp goes over 100C, so i made water spray nozzles to spray water on eng radiator(still did not installed)
i have a 5.7 in a 2010 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4x2-optioned up like a limited but cost less ...and a 2011 ram express with 5.7-these engines are so nice to here and add performance mods to. i have diablosport predator 2 in the jeep and a diablosport trinity in the truck. transmission hd transgo kit with sonnax booster-do not program the performance transmission settings of your programmer if you have these added to your transmission. cai, magnaflow exhaust on both, quality throttle booster, mine are the BD diesel throttle booster. installed a limited slip yukon rear in the jeep, came on the truck-veraram intake on the ram...my vehicles run pretty darn good. i have a 2009 srt8 challenger as my third vehicle=6.1 and it is the best of the hemi engines in my opinion.
Thank you very much man! And most definitely, the best advice I can give is do your research, then do a bit more digging to be sure! There’s so much conflicting information throughout RUclips and forums, it’s insane. Many people jump before they know what to expect and it makes for a rough time.
they dont suck extra oil into the intake manifold.... the oil catch can is to catch oil being puked out of the engine, because you eliminated the stock PVC system.. . you see the pvc system is set up to pull excess gasses out of the crankcase.. with the restricitive stock set up, the filter box pulls too much vacuum on the hose going into the valve cover and you will get oil on your filter, and in your stock filter box bottom,,,, it doesnt get sucked back into the intake,,, with a catch can, the engine is not sucking excess gasses out of the crankcase, and THAT can cause problems.. you need a flowmaster cold air intake set up, that the stock PVC attaches to,, its still pulling gasses out of the engine but not enough to have the oil get sucked out like the stock set up.. if that oil catch can set up gets clogged or full and cant pass gasses, the engine will blow seals. think of it as a human who cannot fart,,, the pressure has to go somewhere,, you should think abt all the newfangled bullshit being sold before you go out and buy it,,
I appreciate the explanation! sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment, I’m glad to learn more. I can’t believe that some folks don’t mind the “blow back” oil being pulled into the intake and intake manifold. I was thinking of venting to atmosphere, i know a couple folks who do and told me it’s a great idea. What are your thoughts?
For my 06 300C I installed a 3.06 gear from a 2010 - 2014 challenger (open diff) abt 300 bucks. (Stock gear 2.82) makes it a bit more fun without the big expense of a posi.(get the axels and larger wheel bearings as well)
@Baby9inee get a 180 Tstat and be VERY certain your cooling system is solid !!! Soon as you can get a tuner so you can adjust fan turn on temperature and to turn off MDS. While you're there increase transmission shift firmness. Learn about the conductor plate and leaking electrical plug in transmission .
I appreciate you checking out the RUclips content🙏🤞🏼 more videos coming soon! A video should be dropping by the end of the weekend😃 I’ll be making another video in the future along the lines of “Every mod a 5.7L HEMI owner should consider”
I understand what you’re saying, some folks can pick up a bit more power over the factory tune working with a tuner but it’s not really worth while, but as soon as you have long tube headers or anything else it is. Of course, At the minimum to adjust the air fuel ratio
I somewhat agree, this video was more so “starter” mods or more simple things. I’ll be posting a revised version of this video once the others I have ready go up. The pre-eagle heads can be reworked pretty easily by a company such as MMX. Also, for instance, a car that has been taken care of very well such as mine will not necessarily need it. My heads are silent. Any noise heard from the front of the vehicle is header ping, but I will be installing ported heads this spring when I get the vehicle out of storage.
Great question my man, it depends on your mindset. Some people have the hemi tick and don’t mind because Mopar released a statement saying that the hemi tick is pretty much normal, and is not known to be a major issue. It also depends on the motor. If you have a 2009 or newer 5.7 L hemi, they are known for cam and lifter failure. So, many people with eagle motors tend to fix it. The best way to fix it would be to install new lifters while doing the camshaft. The camshaft that I will be installing requires new lifters that are non-MDS so it works out perfectly for my pre-eagle motor. You could get a MDS delete kit or just a regular cam kit that includes new lifters. I also wanted to mention that many people believe that the hemi tick can be contributed to the lifters not getting enough oil at idle. So what I will be doing is installing a hellcat oil pump, as they are higher volume pumps and the rotors are slightly thicker than a standard 5.7 or 6.4 oil pump. 🫱🏻🫲🏼🙂
If it is lifter tick, change cam and lifters. Will only get worse, especially if you get on it and drive hard. Ticking because cam lobe and lifter wheel are both worn unevenly.
@@bigcjd49So when I went to my mechanic and mentioned I don’t like that sound. He said it’s normal. But I asked is there a way to stop it? He claimed no. So basically it’s an actual issue that you can fix? And is it damaging the engine slowly? I’ve had my 07 hemi now 2 years.
2011 ram 1500 with 5.7. It had paperwork for a rebuilt engine. But had a tick from the gate of me buying it. Settled down after warming up but was always there for a year. Drove Excellent , not a shake or vibration , passed inspections no prob then one day it totally took a shit on me. Metal in the oil, needs to be replaced now .
Yessir yessir, Diablo tuners will offer canned tunes with slight performance gains, but a custom tune from an experienced tuner will net you more power. (And a trans tune always helps as well)
I agree with the other user that responded. The best course of action is to decide whether you want to build the vehicle or just get a little tune to wake it up. You could go the Diablo route and run a canned tune or purchase an aftermarket tune. Or on the other hand there’s HP tuners. The best thing to do is get in contact with the tuner you would like to use and ask what platform they use. Have a great day!
If you’re referring to Liquefied petroleum gas, it’s definitely something that folks should look into. I just personally don’t think of it when the first 5 mods come to mind.
I just bought a 300 c 170000 km ish maybe 175 km …..100000 miles ish would look but in getting breaks done rotters all the fluids chamged and the straight pipes meg tips now oil catch can miss already only have had 3 days before….. the 24 in divinci low pro tires look nice but no good lol fuuuck
Hell yeah! That’s what I would do 😄 100,000 miles is a really solid milage! Exhaust mods definitely make a huge difference. I can’t wait to finish my exhaust. What are your plans for the car?
100%! The 5.7L motor videos I make cover pre-eagle and eagle motors. There’s slight differences but the main gist of things is the same. The eagle motors just have improvements over the motors produced before 2009
heres the thing with a cold air intake tune,, the cold air intake gives around 20 hp alone,,, diablo says 25 with the filter and 93 tune,, so the tune is really giving u another 5 hp.. the real benefit of the diablo tuner is u can turn off your MDS system and not have a check engine light on.,. as far as engine temp,, the hotter an engine runs, the more efficient it is and more horsepower,, there are engines that run at 135 to 140 F.. The reason for a lower temp stat in these cars is so they dont drop valves ..also the AC will work better because the condensor sits right next to the radiator.
I appreciate you🙏🏼 New video will be dropping soon as well🙂 “5 more mods every 5.7L HEMI owner should consider” and we’ll be diving deeper into the mods!
Yoo Idk if this is irrelevant since it’s been a year almost but I got my 06 hemi at 126n on marketplace. Ofc it had a minor fix (needed new water pump) but paying 200 for that (including repair) is okay with me. Can’t beat a hemi for 5k that has a fresh new engine work and is clean inside and out
@@DylanJohnson-re2reit depends on the car itself. I payed $9k after taxes for my 05’ 300C with 119k miles but it was a one owner, garage kept, and all maintenance was tracked on carfax. Also, it was from a dealership, you can find better pricing through private sales though. You can find some down near the $3,500 range but those cars typically have a “8 owner, fleet use, 2 accident” tag associated with them. I’d say on average $5-7k and for the ones kept a bit nicer around $7-10k
@Underdogbuilds I knew you had to be from Detroit. Been watching your videos and noticed you holding the BREEZE. I just picked up a 2005 300C with 968 original miles. Looking to make this thing last me a long time. Thanks for the useful knowledge!
100%, a wider wheel & tire set-up doesn’t necessarily mean heavier. In fact I recommend a 17 or 18 for the rear, from a reputable brand such as Forgestar, weld, or something similar. Decreasing weight while increasing traction is the way to go. 20s are the largest i would go.
The Diablo tuner isn’t a throttle booster. The canned tunes net you a small amount of power and you can upload custom tunes with any platinum edition Diablo tuner. I have one and use it to turn off traction, change tire size in the tune for aftermarket wheels & tires, disable MDS, remove the speed & rev limiters, and some other stuff. Tires, wheels, and suspension seem to be a good place to start with any car IMO, I think he just included them as starter things to do. Improving the looks and handing is a plus in my book
Sorry but I beg to differ my stock wheels on my 300 don’t burn at all. It’s all wheel drive so also having different sized tires is a bad thing for all wheel drive. Oil catch not a bad idea mine does use a lil extra oil
The problem is that the AWD cars have larger brakes and a different hub offset from the RWD cars. However there are some aftermarket wheels that will fit and they have to specifically state "for AWD" models. There are plenty aftermarket rims at 19, 20, 22 inch to fit the AWD. the need to keep the overall tire height as close as possible to the original height of the factory setup to avoid AWD and any other driveline/computer issues is valid; however, the wheel and tire set-up can be changed entirely. I’ve had a couple of buddies who would spin a bit with AWD models. A Chrysler 300 uses a front-axle disconnect system, which is capable of transitioning power to the front wheels when a slip is detected in the rear wheels. The vehicles would quickly switch from RWD to AWD and correct it, but they wanted no slippage. Also, that’s only half of the reason to consider aftermarket wheels and tires. One of the main reasons many people in the community upgrade their wheels & tires is for looks, some people have told me they care more about looks rather than performance. I’ll be doing a first 5/top 5 video for performance mods very soon. Also, all of these motors (5.7L, 6.1L, 6.4L, and 6.2L) tend to. My buddy vents to the atmosphere and will still have oil pool in his intake manifold. My other buddy just reported what looks to be carbon build up where the manifold meets his heads, but it’s oil that had been pooled within the intake manifold. It’s “normal” but an oil catch can will help. It won’t stop it 100%, but it will help. (It even happens with blowers. Oil will pool in an Edelbrock blower, whipple, etc.) I hope you have a great day man!
A parody of who? 😂 these are the first 5 mods I’d personally consider. There’s 5 more as well in another video. With 144 watch hours it must be one hell of a dud, pal. Keep that bitterness and have a blessed day!
I have a video called “simple mods to improve 5.7L HEMI powered vehicles” that I feel would be a good place to start. They’re modifications that are a bit more simple for home installs and getting your feet wet with the car. (They aren’t any crazy modifications though). Since it’s a pre-eagle motor (2003-2008), I recommend addressing the issues with the heads and such. The heads are known to have valve spring and valve seat issues. This can be resolved by having your stock heads reworked (least favorite option as the car is down the whole time your heads are shipped off and it limits your build for the future) or you can swap heads (6.1L or 09+ 5.7L “Eagle” heads). If you swap heads you’ll need new pushrods, an intake manifold, the correct spark plugs, and (D port) exhaust manifolds at the minimum. That gives you the perfect reason to cam the car since you already need some valve train components and you’re pulling the heads. This also gives you the perfect excuse to get some shorty or long tube headers in place. A tune up would be required as well of course, especially with cam, heads, and headers done. All of this work would leave you over 500HP at the crank and you’d most likely need some better tires for the rear end (and possibly some wheels if you’d like to have separate wheels & tires for putting the power down vs. daily driving). I would also just like to mention that DiabloSport tuning is a viable option, but it’s not really worth it in the long run. If you plan to build the car HP Tuners is the way to go, if you’re fine with limitations Diablo sport is fine. (Diablosport is hit and miss with transmission tuning, they quit selling the tuning software to tuners so you’re limited in who can tune you, and diablos canned tunes provide minimal gains. - but diablosport tuners do allow you to slightly improve the car with canned tunes, adjust fan settings, adjust shift firmness, fully turn off traction control, disable MDS, select/change tire size for speedometer accuracy, remove the rev limited in P & N, and you have the option of custom tunes (it’s just more limited than HP Tuners). Plus it doubles as a scan tool/code reader. (I may have forgotten a setting/feature or two but that’s sums up the diablosport tuners)
First thing in any high mileage hemi should be replace the oil pump with either a Hellcat or Melling HV oil pump as well as replace the junk factory lifters with the Isky bushing type lifters!
I completely agree. This video isn’t based strictly on high milage examples. Some folks who have reached out in my direct messages have 20k miles and want to start modifying their car but don’t want to do anything very intense. I recommend every pre-eagle owner to address the issues with the heads at the very least. A couple of my other videos speak on replacing lifters, installing an upgraded oil pump, replacing the water pump, and more. Interestingly, Some people refuse to get rid of MDS and limit themselves with lifter choices. I touched on this in my how to “bulletproof” a 5.7L HEMI video. 🫱🏻🫲🏼😄
This was a low quality video that needs to be revised; however, I have a video coming on this subject “what to consider when building a higher mileage HEMI”.
I appreciate you tuning in man, Have a great day!
@@Underdogbuilds I’m just paranoid of these lifters, as an Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep service advisor/manager for numerous years and owning an 06CSRT, as I’ve seen them fail as soon as 20k miles. I’m on my 4th set of lifters and 3rd cam at this point. On the last failure I went with a total rebuild into a 426 with the Melling HV oil pump and the Isky bushing lifters and that engine has never been more quiet!
Mannnn, me and you both! I’m paranoid as hell, haha. I appreciate you, your knowledge, and your expertise! It’s insane how early these lifters can fail, I wish they would have installed a high volume oil pump from factory in the 09+ models at least! 4 sets of lifters and 3 camshafts is most definitely some real world data if I’ve ever seen it. Those 426 Ci motors are monsters 😮💨 I’ll definitely be grabbing a high pressure high volume pump for ~$200! Could you possibly link those Isky lifters if you have time man? I would love to check them out! I’ll most likely grab some this spring to throw in the car.
I would love for my HEMI to quiet down a bit, especially with that header ping, haha! It sounds like you’ve found the perfect combo for these HEMIs😄 are you running 5w-20 for oil? I’ve heard of many people running a couple different weights. I stick to the good ol’ 5w-20 but I’m genuinely curious.
@@Underdogbuilds 0w-40 per Mopar recommendations.
Spend once cry once lol dope vid. Got a 2012 Chrysler 300c I’m going to start modding up soon so I’m watching
Yessirrr, haha. Spend once, cry once has saved me a bit of money! And thank you man, I really appreciate it! I wish you the best of luck with the 2012 300C, I’ve got more videos coming including more mods and going a tad bit more in depth in some things! From mods that help at the drag strip or for racing to How to make a 5.7L HEMI as quick as a hellcat. Have a blessed day!🙏🤞🏼😄
Nice video!
09:44 i have thermostat that is opened at 88C and fans are set to start at 96C and still if outside temp is over 30C , at 200km/h on highway, end temp goes over 100C, so i made water spray nozzles to spray water on eng radiator(still did not installed)
i have a 5.7 in a 2010 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4x2-optioned up like a limited but cost less ...and a 2011 ram express with 5.7-these engines are so nice to here and add performance mods to. i have diablosport predator 2 in the jeep and a diablosport trinity in the truck. transmission hd transgo kit with sonnax booster-do not program the performance transmission settings of your programmer if you have these added to your transmission. cai, magnaflow exhaust on both, quality throttle booster, mine are the BD diesel throttle booster. installed a limited slip yukon rear in the jeep, came on the truck-veraram intake on the ram...my vehicles run pretty darn good. i have a 2009 srt8 challenger as my third vehicle=6.1 and it is the best of the hemi engines in my opinion.
Great video
Best advice on here my friend is do your research. Good video
Thank you very much man! And most definitely, the best advice I can give is do your research, then do a bit more digging to be sure! There’s so much conflicting information throughout RUclips and forums, it’s insane. Many people jump before they know what to expect and it makes for a rough time.
yo please do an in depth install vid on the racing coils🙏
Of course man🫡🙏 I’ll make sure to, I appreciate you tuning in!
You sir, have got a subscriber
Great video brotha💪🏽👈🏽
Thank you man, I appreciate that very much! I’m looking to improve video quality and consistently this year 😄🙏
Love the video man!
they dont suck extra oil into the intake manifold.... the oil catch can is to catch oil being puked out of the engine, because you eliminated the stock PVC system.. . you see the pvc system is set up to pull excess gasses out of the crankcase.. with the restricitive stock set up, the filter box pulls too much vacuum on the hose going into the valve cover and you will get oil on your filter, and in your stock filter box bottom,,,, it doesnt get sucked back into the intake,,, with a catch can, the engine is not sucking excess gasses out of the crankcase, and THAT can cause problems.. you need a flowmaster cold air intake set up, that the stock PVC attaches to,, its still pulling gasses out of the engine but not enough to have the oil get sucked out like the stock set up.. if that oil catch can set up gets clogged or full and cant pass gasses, the engine will blow seals. think of it as a human who cannot fart,,, the pressure has to go somewhere,,
you should think abt all the newfangled bullshit being sold before you go out and buy it,,
I appreciate the explanation! sorry that I hadn’t seen this comment, I’m glad to learn more. I can’t believe that some folks don’t mind the “blow back” oil being pulled into the intake and intake manifold. I was thinking of venting to atmosphere, i know a couple folks who do and told me it’s a great idea. What are your thoughts?
For my 06 300C I installed a 3.06 gear from a 2010 - 2014 challenger (open diff) abt 300 bucks. (Stock gear 2.82) makes it a bit more fun without the big expense of a posi.(get the axels and larger wheel bearings as well)
Have you done anything else ? I just bought the same yr and model and and all it had added was spacers
@Baby9inee get a 180 Tstat and be VERY certain your cooling system is solid !!! Soon as you can get a tuner so you can adjust fan turn on temperature and to turn off MDS. While you're there increase transmission shift firmness.
Learn about the conductor plate and leaking electrical plug in transmission .
Yo bro I came from IG this what I needed
I appreciate you checking out the RUclips content🙏🤞🏼 more videos coming soon! A video should be dropping by the end of the weekend😃 I’ll be making another video in the future along the lines of “Every mod a 5.7L HEMI owner should consider”
You just got a new subscriber. Great video 👍🏽
Thank you, I really appreciate it! More videos coming very soon! 🙏😁 I’ve got quite a bit planned as of now
@@Underdogbuildsyou’re welcome. I have a 2021 300S 5.7 and I haven’t done anything yet! I’ll definitely stay tuned..thanks!
6:50 i have trinity and no difference between any tune for stock engine, it has sense if you change intake, exhaust or cam, then you need custom tune
I understand what you’re saying, some folks can pick up a bit more power over the factory tune working with a tuner but it’s not really worth while, but as soon as you have long tube headers or anything else it is. Of course, At the minimum to adjust the air fuel ratio
Change the trash pre egal heads is the first thing you should do
I somewhat agree, this video was more so “starter” mods or more simple things. I’ll be posting a revised version of this video once the others I have ready go up. The pre-eagle heads can be reworked pretty easily by a company such as MMX. Also, for instance, a car that has been taken care of very well such as mine will not necessarily need it. My heads are silent. Any noise heard from the front of the vehicle is header ping, but I will be installing ported heads this spring when I get the vehicle out of storage.
What if you have a hemi tick? Is it things you need to do to it before modding
Great question my man, it depends on your mindset. Some people have the hemi tick and don’t mind because Mopar released a statement saying that the hemi tick is pretty much normal, and is not known to be a major issue.
It also depends on the motor. If you have a 2009 or newer 5.7 L hemi, they are known for cam and lifter failure. So, many people with eagle motors tend to fix it.
The best way to fix it would be to install new lifters while doing the camshaft. The camshaft that I will be installing requires new lifters that are non-MDS so it works out perfectly for my pre-eagle motor. You could get a MDS delete kit or just a regular cam kit that includes new lifters. I also wanted to mention that many people believe that the hemi tick can be contributed to the lifters not getting enough oil at idle. So what I will be doing is installing a hellcat oil pump, as they are higher volume pumps and the rotors are slightly thicker than a standard 5.7 or 6.4 oil pump. 🫱🏻🫲🏼🙂
If it is lifter tick, change cam and lifters. Will only get worse, especially if you get on it and drive hard. Ticking because cam lobe and lifter wheel are both worn unevenly.
@@bigcjd49So when I went to my mechanic and mentioned I don’t like that sound. He said it’s normal. But I asked is there a way to stop it? He claimed no. So basically it’s an actual issue that you can fix? And is it damaging the engine slowly? I’ve had my 07 hemi now 2 years.
2011 ram 1500 with 5.7. It had paperwork for a rebuilt engine. But had a tick from the gate of me buying it. Settled down after warming up but was always there for a year. Drove Excellent , not a shake or vibration , passed inspections no prob then one day it totally took a shit on me. Metal in the oil, needs to be replaced now .
Try the firestone indy 500 i dont spin with them
I’ll definitely have to look into them! Thank you.🙏🙂
I got a 2013 Chrsyler 300s 5.7L woild i be able to do a stock tune to it?
Yessir yessir, Diablo tuners will offer canned tunes with slight performance gains, but a custom tune from an experienced tuner will net you more power. (And a trans tune always helps as well)
What tuning kit would you suggest for 300 Chrysler 2019 5.7 hemi?
2019 would need ECU swap or unlock before can tune. Any Chrysler product newer than 2014 needs to have unlocked ECU
I agree with the other user that responded. The best course of action is to decide whether you want to build the vehicle or just get a little tune to wake it up. You could go the Diablo route and run a canned tune or purchase an aftermarket tune. Or on the other hand there’s HP tuners. The best thing to do is get in contact with the tuner you would like to use and ask what platform they use. Have a great day!
What’s the apple CarPlay/bluetooth in your car link?
What about LPG?
If you’re referring to Liquefied petroleum gas, it’s definitely something that folks should look into. I just personally don’t think of it when the first 5 mods come to mind.
I just bought a 300 c 170000 km ish maybe 175 km …..100000 miles ish would look but in getting breaks done rotters all the fluids chamged and the straight pipes meg tips now oil catch can miss already only have had 3 days before….. the 24 in divinci low pro tires look nice but no good lol fuuuck
Hell yeah! That’s what I would do 😄 100,000 miles is a really solid milage! Exhaust mods definitely make a huge difference. I can’t wait to finish my exhaust. What are your plans for the car?
Plan on getting a 2017 300c would ts apply?
100%! The 5.7L motor videos I make cover pre-eagle and eagle motors. There’s slight differences but the main gist of things is the same. The eagle motors just have improvements over the motors produced before 2009
Hptuners is better than diablo. Diablo sometimes glitch on you and it gets scary
Hey man what year is your 300?
I mean you can also run some Arturo’s they are a pretty cheap tire and are pretty good
I’ll definitely look into some Arturo’s, especially if I can save a little money for the fun. I’ll need some burners as well either way!
heres the thing with a cold air intake tune,, the cold air intake gives around 20 hp alone,,, diablo says 25 with the filter and 93 tune,, so the tune is really giving u another 5 hp.. the real benefit of the diablo tuner is u can turn off your MDS system and not have a check engine light on.,. as far as engine temp,, the hotter an engine runs, the more efficient it is and more horsepower,, there are engines that run at 135 to 140 F.. The reason for a lower temp stat in these cars is so they dont drop valves ..also the AC will work better because the condensor sits right next to the radiator.
In no world is a cold air intake giving you 20hp lmaooo
Learning tune?
facts
I appreciate you🙏🏼 New video will be dropping soon as well🙂 “5 more mods every 5.7L HEMI owner should consider” and we’ll be diving deeper into the mods!
🔥🔥
I appreciate it! Thanks for tuning in fammo🙏
Hey how much mileage did you have on yours when you bought it
Yoo Idk if this is irrelevant since it’s been a year almost but I got my 06 hemi at 126n on marketplace. Ofc it had a minor fix (needed new water pump) but paying 200 for that (including repair) is okay with me. Can’t beat a hemi for 5k that has a fresh new engine work and is clean inside and out
Links to the products have been posted🙂 (in the description)
From det?🔥🔥🔥 and I got some questions with the 300
Yessir🤞🏼 based out of the metro Detroit area. I’m happy to help with any questions family!
What should I pay for a 05-06 if I cash out
@@DylanJohnson-re2reit depends on the car itself. I payed $9k after taxes for my 05’ 300C with 119k miles but it was a one owner, garage kept, and all maintenance was tracked on carfax. Also, it was from a dealership, you can find better pricing through private sales though. You can find some down near the $3,500 range but those cars typically have a “8 owner, fleet use, 2 accident” tag associated with them. I’d say on average $5-7k and for the ones kept a bit nicer around $7-10k
@Underdogbuilds I knew you had to be from Detroit. Been watching your videos and noticed you holding the BREEZE. I just picked up a 2005 300C with 968 original miles. Looking to make this thing last me a long time. Thanks for the useful knowledge!
can you list the links for any of the mods
🤞🏼yessir, I should’ve listed them in the description. Let me go ahead and add them
a new camera
😂 you right
@@Underdogbuilds ay the new vids look good tho
Ok I have to subscribe you talking that shit.
That’s what I’m sayin!
Are you in Detroit?
You definitely don't want to get heavier wheels & tires that increase your unsprung weight & reduce the suspension's handling characteristics.
100%, a wider wheel & tire set-up doesn’t necessarily mean heavier. In fact I recommend a 17 or 18 for the rear, from a reputable brand such as Forgestar, weld, or something similar. Decreasing weight while increasing traction is the way to go. 20s are the largest i would go.
Tires wheels shocks have nothing to do with a 5.7. Throttle booster adds zero HP Cool video tho
The Diablo tuner isn’t a throttle booster. The canned tunes net you a small amount of power and you can upload custom tunes with any platinum edition Diablo tuner. I have one and use it to turn off traction, change tire size in the tune for aftermarket wheels & tires, disable MDS, remove the speed & rev limiters, and some other stuff. Tires, wheels, and suspension seem to be a good place to start with any car IMO, I think he just included them as starter things to do. Improving the looks and handing is a plus in my book
W
I appreciate you man🙏🏼🤞🏼
Ky gang
Yessirrr, I stayed in Louisville for some years! One of my favorite places 😄
the first thing any 5/7 liter owner should do is upgrade to a 6.1 an quit playing and acting bad.
The 5.7 is my first car at 17 it’s really if you can handle it and no point of going up in power if your not tuning or decreasing wheel spin
5.7 better motor
@@brucealmqiist2055it is and stronger bottom.A 6.1L is basically bored 5.7L
How much better is the 6.1? I’m choosing between borh
@@carlosleyva2496 5.7 is supposed to be the better motor
Sorry but I beg to differ my stock wheels on my 300 don’t burn at all. It’s all wheel drive so also having different sized tires is a bad thing for all wheel drive. Oil catch not a bad idea mine does use a lil extra oil
The problem is that the AWD cars have larger brakes and a different hub offset from the RWD cars. However there are some aftermarket wheels that will fit and they have to specifically state "for AWD" models. There are plenty aftermarket rims at 19, 20, 22 inch to fit the AWD. the need to keep the overall tire height as close as possible to the original height of the factory setup to avoid AWD and any other driveline/computer issues is valid; however, the wheel and tire set-up can be changed entirely. I’ve had a couple of buddies who would spin a bit with AWD models. A Chrysler 300 uses a front-axle disconnect system, which is capable of transitioning power to the front wheels when a slip is detected in the rear wheels. The vehicles would quickly switch from RWD to AWD and correct it, but they wanted no slippage. Also, that’s only half of the reason to consider aftermarket wheels and tires. One of the main reasons many people in the community upgrade their wheels & tires is for looks, some people have told me they care more about looks rather than performance. I’ll be doing a first 5/top 5 video for performance mods very soon.
Also, all of these motors (5.7L, 6.1L, 6.4L, and 6.2L) tend to. My buddy vents to the atmosphere and will still have oil pool in his intake manifold. My other buddy just reported what looks to be carbon build up where the manifold meets his heads, but it’s oil that had been pooled within the intake manifold. It’s “normal” but an oil catch can will help. It won’t stop it 100%, but it will help. (It even happens with blowers. Oil will pool in an Edelbrock blower, whipple, etc.) I hope you have a great day man!
This must be a parody, a dud of a parody.
A parody of who? 😂 these are the first 5 mods I’d personally consider. There’s 5 more as well in another video. With 144 watch hours it must be one hell of a dud, pal. Keep that bitterness and have a blessed day!
Just got an 06 300c with 126 on the 5.7. What should I do man ?
I have a video called “simple mods to improve 5.7L HEMI powered vehicles” that I feel would be a good place to start. They’re modifications that are a bit more simple for home installs and getting your feet wet with the car. (They aren’t any crazy modifications though). Since it’s a pre-eagle motor (2003-2008), I recommend addressing the issues with the heads and such. The heads are known to have valve spring and valve seat issues. This can be resolved by having your stock heads reworked (least favorite option as the car is down the whole time your heads are shipped off and it limits your build for the future) or you can swap heads (6.1L or 09+ 5.7L “Eagle” heads). If you swap heads you’ll need new pushrods, an intake manifold, the correct spark plugs, and (D port) exhaust manifolds at the minimum. That gives you the perfect reason to cam the car since you already need some valve train components and you’re pulling the heads. This also gives you the perfect excuse to get some shorty or long tube headers in place. A tune up would be required as well of course, especially with cam, heads, and headers done. All of this work would leave you over 500HP at the crank and you’d most likely need some better tires for the rear end (and possibly some wheels if you’d like to have separate wheels & tires for putting the power down vs. daily driving). I would also just like to mention that DiabloSport tuning is a viable option, but it’s not really worth it in the long run. If you plan to build the car HP Tuners is the way to go, if you’re fine with limitations Diablo sport is fine. (Diablosport is hit and miss with transmission tuning, they quit selling the tuning software to tuners so you’re limited in who can tune you, and diablos canned tunes provide minimal gains. - but diablosport tuners do allow you to slightly improve the car with canned tunes, adjust fan settings, adjust shift firmness, fully turn off traction control, disable MDS, select/change tire size for speedometer accuracy, remove the rev limited in P & N, and you have the option of custom tunes (it’s just more limited than HP Tuners). Plus it doubles as a scan tool/code reader. (I may have forgotten a setting/feature or two but that’s sums up the diablosport tuners)