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I run a 2-135 on my discbine.

Awesome! Thanks for watching

Glad you enjoy them. Hopefully theybwill be helpfull to you.

If you want to supply a 9' disc mower I'm willing to do a side by side test and see which method dries better and faster. Put your money where your mouth is.

What?

That's what I was thinking but I wasn't gonna say anything

Thanks sis

Yes we should. I wear ear protection when I'm working in the shop with loud stuff. But I always for get when I'm on the tractor because I'm bouncing between jobs and everything and forger and then I don't make time to get ear plugs. I'm going to do better though because I do think it's important to preserve our hearing when we can. thanks

Yes if it is something designed for grease. If not the lathering grease on the outside of a joint doesn't do any good. Oil would have been a better lubricant. But I wd handy and it did the job.

Honestly if I were guessing it would be a combination of lack of understanding and insufficient time in the day. Farmers have a lot to do and the primary goal is to grow a crop or raise livestock. All the equipment is in support of the main goal. Obviously in a perfect world you would do all the preventative maintenance in the off season and never break down or have any issues while you're running. Im a big believer in preventative maintence and we do decent at preventative stuff but there will always be things that fail that you can't change preventatively. Of course grease and oil changes and everything is the easy standard stuff. But a lot of farmers aren't equipped to take on real in depth and technical repairs. Large farmers will generally have a dealer do that type of work. Small farmers simply can't afford to pay someone else to do a lot of that work. They do what the can and fix the rest as they go. I don't have a really good answer for you. But I would assume that you did the preventative maintenance and repairs on the equipment at the ranch you worked at since you saw the issues. If you're talking about the issues I was working on in this video specifically this was a preventative repair. That's the whole reason we brought the 2nd stacker over to try before we really get into the hay full swing. It is a new addition my dad bought at an auction. And in the end it doesn't matter how perfect your preventative maintenance is, if you are running equipment you will have break downs.

It is a 6150 Deutz. About 50hp.

@@thebalerman thank you for getting back with that information

No problem

Thanks for watching. I have driven trucks and hauled equipment and everything. I always try to tie things down the correct way. I sure don't want to restack and we don't want to cause issues on the road either.

With the rain we’ve been having, we’d be baling wet hay, without a Tedder.

I'd be more than happy to if you want to make an agreement to pay me for any spoiled hay I have.

When you say friction disc are you talking about the piece that moves the trip arm up as the hay moves through the chamber? It sounds like you are just barely catching th pawl that disengages the knotter mechanism. There are a few adjustments. One on them is the slotted holes that mount the star metering wheel and shaft, this adjusts the distance from the end of the trip arm to the pawl. There is also a piece that slides up and down and is what actually makes contact with the pawl. You need to adjust these items so when the arm trips I will allow the pawl past the stop and engage the knotter. But also contact the pawl enough to stop the knotter and not slip past anywhere else in the travel of the trip arm besides the trip point. Let me know how things go and if you're able to get it taken care of.

I know WD isn't the best lubricant but it's what I had handy. Thanks for the comment.

Yes what I did correct the second table issue. That first load I had to operate it manually. Afterward it cycled like it's supposed to. The other thing we found after we were done and why I had issues with the first stack not sitting right is someone welded round stack to the load rack to angle the rear forks up more which made the stack lean back farther than normal to get it off the stacker. So after this cutting g dad cut those off before we use it at his house. Other than that the stacker is working well. The loader chute could use a little straightening but it doesn't keep it from working.

@@thebalerman GOOD DEAL, CYA NEXT EPISODE, Looking forward to MORE VIDEOS 👍✌️🌞♥️😎🚜🚜

I use blue, purple, and red/orange. The color doesn't matter. What you want to look at is knot strength. And then length is secondary. If you're looking at standard farm store twine typically it will be 9000/130 or 7200/170. The first number is the length and the second is the knot strength. Knot strength is most important. I run 170 lbs knot strength. But I run oversized bundles that are 7200 per roll so double the typical farm store twine. I wouldn't run 130. Need to run 170 or you could run 210 if you wanted.

@@thebalerman I have been using the 130 and not sure whether it is just breaking I'm going to check the bill hook and the knife. Today I baled and it would tie about 5 or 6 then miss always on the inside knotted. I baled around 120 bales with that senerio and then it baled 76 with 1 miss. I appreciate your help.

No problem happy to help. What does the knot look like when you miss?

@@thebalerman I was looking at some yesterday and they looked to me knot slipped through like it was tied tight but I could ever really decide exactly. I broke a needle on that side at the end of last year and repaired it this winter. I only broke the one needle. I went through the timing and adjustments, I think I have it right. I never could see why the needle broke. I'm wondering about the bill hook if the adjustment with that is off. I'm trying to learn how to adjust this thing. Thanks for your input and time.

Are you happy with your bale system as far as stacking? What is your average stacking bales in the barn per hour? At the present I am using a 8 bale flat accumulator with a 8 bale grapple. It 's just to slow. Looking for a new idea in handling hay.

Thanks

Thanks. You are correct. I usually try to have them wear ear protection and I teach them about the equipment so they understand to always stay clear.

Thanks for watching!

It just depends on the weather and drying conditions. This time around I tedded 3 times total because it was humid, the soil was moist, the hay was thick, and I only had 4 days to get it dry. Better safe than sorry if you have a tedder may as well use it.

Thanks for watching. Yes I'm finally getting geared back up and motivated to make some videos. These next few will be footage from my phone but I have a new camera now so hopefully I'll be able to get some good videos out.

Yeah they both do pretty good. Thanks

Haha I didn't know that anyone missed me!

Thanks for watching and the comment. Stay tuned for the next video to see what it made.

Thanks for watching. I've never been around Bahia grass so I have no idea. This field has been low producing for a out 3 years a d I notilled some more orchard grass in the fall of 2022 and it's finally established and back to producing like it should. Of course I fertilize it well.

@thebalerman that's cool it's finally taken root and getting established well. I believe I need to fertilize some but I basically just bale as a hobby and it keeps our fields nice and clean. Keep up the great work!

Good to be back at it. I've been struggling with videos, I got a new phone and my camera quit working. I just got a new camera so that will help going forward. Also got a little more motivation to make some videos so that helps. Thanks for watching

@@thebalerman That little guy of yours is growing up SOOOO fast, he's getting BIG , Him and his sister are going to be taking over driving the tractors before to long, looks like 🤣😂🤣😂🤣🚜🚜. CYA SOON NEXT TIME 👍😁🔥😎

Thanks for watching. Hopefully we can get it figured out. So I understand what your issue is it sounds like you're having knots get hung on the billhooks. You can check the billhook tension. If it's too tight it won't release the knot. Make sure you have sharp knives on the knife arm. If they are dull it will tighten the knot on the billhook and not come off. That's the most of it really. Just making sure the knife arm cuts clean and rubs the heel of the billhook. And making sure the knife arm travels far enough and hits the billhook at the right point

@@thebalerman thanks 🙏 I will work on it tomorrow

Yes this one has auto tie but doesn't work very well. And to get it to work better you have to make longer bales than we really want to. Either way it doesn't work nearly as well as the wire does.

When you say travel what are you talking about? The knotter frame, the knife arm, or the billhook?

Thanks. We are in a wet pattern as well so didn't know whether to trust when the weather man said we would have 4 dry days. But it turned out better than I expected. I put preservative on because we still had some stem moisture but it wasn't bad and probably would keep without preservative but better safe than sorry

Looks really nice!

Are you saying we weren't baling 7 bales/minute? Or are you just asking how we got hay that thick? I believe the video shows that we are doing at least that. Portions of the field I think we were more than that. The biggest thing is to have good thick hay and big windrows, good hay and plenty of fertilizer. At 7 bales/minute this baler isn't being pushed hard, that is over 13 flakes/ bale. I like to keep it around 12 flakes in a bale. You can get by with 10 flakes but you're going to see more variable lengths and any lower than that and you're really pushing the bales harder than you should.

I could do that with the stacker and lay the stack down. You couldn't set it on a trailer because it would be too tall and would fall over if you tried driving with it. If you could figure out how to shorten it some you could to that.

You're talking about the little bar that the bearings mount on on the end of the feeder bar? You Remove the bearings and collars and loosen the bolt that clamps it in and it'll slide out.