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Hi Steve, I didn't realise the later models don't have such a wide view. I record at 170 FOV, full HD and 30 FPS. The frame rate can affect speed perception if you are using 60 or higher. I keep debating about getting a more modern camera. Decisions, decisions. 🤔

Is this from the video title, or did you watch?

Takes a lot to get my speech animated/excited. 😀

He did. That's me on the lead bike. This one gets asked a lot. Personally I find it much more comfortable and relaxing riding that way. For lots of town riding it means you avoid doing 'The Dance' (Hendon Shuffle) all the time. You can snick the bike out of gear and give your clutch hand a rest, and then easily select 1st gear to pull away. It does require the ability to really feather the front brake lever to avoid bouncing forks and come to a smooth controlled stop. Of course you need to be able to do BOTH methods, left or right, as sometimes the road conditions/layout may force you to use one or the other. My bike also has linked brakes that work front to back, but I do the same with conventional brake setups.

@@mikeroberts Sorry sir, I just saw your old posts about the same questions. 😎 I passed my test 3 months ago. My instructor and examiner always mentioned using the right foot just before stopping, checking the blind spot before overtaking or turning right or left, and checking both mirrors every time just before a change in speed limits on the road. That is why I always remind myself to turn my head to see mirrors and blind spots while riding. However, you don't seem to do or show those kinds of body actions on the road. I really don't know if all of those rules depend on the instructor. Sometimes I just want to say, "Let me ride however I want!"

@@aknaltoglu4986 You are taught to ride in a certain way as you start out in motorcycling that is designed to keep you safe while you have little on road experience. I'm now in my 48th year riding. Keep riding how you have been taught. Doing the right foot down needs very good control of the front brake, this will come with experience. If you watch this video and others, you'll see I do do the shoulder checks at critical times. Starting out you need to do these more regularly and as more of a set routine. Keep safe and enjoy your motorcycling building up your miles and on road riding experience..

I have a Renault hybrid without a CVT gearbox and love the way it drives. We shouldn't need to wait 3 to 5 years. The tech is already refined, yet Kawasaki seem to have implemented a 20 year old implementation. The software exists to make this so much better.

Ha ha. It's not as good as it could/should be. Hopefully Kawasaki will take on board the feedback.

It's a first attempt. I think there will be more. It removes range anxiety and allows full EV operation for a reasonable distance. The smoothness of EV delivery is addictive away from all the political and green claims.

My car switches between petrol, EV and combined smoothly and automatically without the need to stop. This is what i was expecting the Kawasaki to do.

Thanks for the comment. I guess we will see more of this as further restrictions are put in place for the sale of pure petrol engined vehicles.

Glad you found it useful.

Sorry for the late reply. Have you some specific examples timestamp)? Regarding mirror checks/lifesavers you may like this video of mine where I explain you do have to move your head BUT you don't need great big flamboyant play acting. ruclips.net/video/ECXvXXHtDHg/видео.html Remember Roadcraft says consider a lifesaver, not do one every time.

Thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your search for a Stelvio

Yep, the plan was to pick them off one by one as the opportunity arises. Now the rest were tailgating (by both our definitions) so there were no gaps to do another overtake with a safe landing space. Several of the cars turned off, but not the one I had passed, so I then had a clear road ahead which I wouldn't have had if I hadn't made the first overtake. I didn't then zoom off (as I would if solo) as I was leading riders unknown to me and I don't want to encourage them into overtakes they may not normally do, just to keep up with me. Hope that makes sense.

@@mikeroberts Best laid plans of mice and men oft go astray. We have all been there . With intentions to overtake a number of vehicles if [ and only if ] the circumstances permit but eventually to be bogged down and unable to commit to them. However as you said you were lead on a group of others with unknown abilities so should you have considered such a multiple overtake. Perhaps not.?

So as the topbox blocks us from seeing the rider (other than his helmet), how is him wearing a hi-viz going to make any difference to someone following him?

As I've said before your perspective of tailgating is way different to mine. I'll have to watch it again to see where I closed on any vehicle.

@@mikeroberts Ok, IT was a good and refreshing video. That said it was good to see a rider not riding to the speed limit all of the time as many do on their videos. and thus not feeling or showing the need or requirement to make faster progress and to overtake everything in sight. By slowing just a little and keeping up with traffic we can all benefit from less stress and the increased potential danger of committing to overtakes but are still being able to make good safe progress. The positioning behind other vehicles appears was very good in 30 mph areas but very much closer when in a different speed limit area.. The way I judge whether or not one is too close is first accepting a minimum of the 2 second rule and the recommendations of the H.C stopping distances [ S 126 ] or alternatively those distances advised by the DVSA. Then I look at the information given to me by the bikes speedometer or the road itself. I am aware of the distance between hazard lines of being some 30 ft and count back. Also lamp standards are basically some 40 metres apart. which is approx. 120ft. the safe stopping distance at 40 mph. Finally the telegraph or power line posts are generally some 60 metres apart and that relates to some 180 ft in distance apart and is a safe stopping distance at 50 mph [ being 175 ft H.C. or 50 metres by the DVSA] and possibly one at 60 mph the NSL on some country roads [ 60 metres, DVSA]

@@mikeroberts That begs the question as to how one determines what is a safe stopping distance and or if one is actually Tailgating. Of either following or closing in on a vehicle in front and or of keeping the recommended safe stopping distances at all times as shown/ described by the DVSA or the H.C. or the Police Roadcraft Manual .

It would be the GX for me. I went back and checked my GT video. What CC characteristic? I didn't get to try the CC on the GX.

Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks Andy. You know I would be struck by a lightning bolt if I test rode a BMW ! 😂

Glad you like them!

Yes, you could argue I had it all under control, but a little toot of "I am here" doesn't hurt in case he was thinking of doing a u-turn to Maccy D.

😁

Thanks for the comment/question. I tend to use a rule of thumb of around 10 seconds. if I'm not passing anything by then, I return to lane 1. But I do stretch that at times if there are vehicles I am gaining on. What I don't do is stay out if there's nothing ahead.

Thanks, will do!

Thanks. Screen choice is always a very personal thing. I hate to look through a screen, and having the exact height for your own torso/head height is critical to avoid buffeting.

Yes I have. I rode it last year and did enjoy it. I found the one I rode to be 'hunting' all the time at a constant throttle setting, but I've spoken to others and they didn't experience that. I'd have to have another ride and make sure the settings were all correct ... though the V100 and Stelvio would be my preferred choice in the future.

Thanks for the extra info. I thought I'd put the bike in road mode, as often on demo bikes the settings have been played around with by the previous rider. What made you think it was in tour (I can't see the TFT detail)? Has your bike's first gear selection got better with miles? The huge clunk and lurch forward really overshadowed the rest of the excellent characteristics for me.

@@mikeroberts The standard settings don’t put the aerodynamic wings out in Road mode, they are just for rain and tour modes, hence my assumption you had tour mode selected. If someone had been deep into the menus this could have been changed. The gear box gets a lot better with miles on it, there is still a bit of a clunk as the bike is put into first gear but it does not leap forward , I don’t remember it being as bad as you reported even when new and the bike I did a test ride on was OK as well so perhaps the clutch on the test bike was in need of some adjustment??

The clunk did overshadow the ride sadly, though others tell me it does improve with miles.

@@mikeroberts then let me try a used one..or have they just gone numb to it! 😆

Thanks. I did video my ride on the Tracer 900 GT. I need to review the footage and see what learning points are in there along with my riding impressions.

I get that. I was compelled to be ‘guided’ on my test ride of a big Triumph Tiger some years ago from a large dealer (not dedicated Triumph). The sales person appeared in full leathers and told me she would be on the then fairly new Speed Triple. I did as requested and followed her and before long we were on her test route. I assessed her initially as a competent rider. When she exceeded the legal limit on the B road I rolled off the throttle at 70 and eased back to 65. She disappeared at a speed I’d estimate at 90+. This happened several times and on the return route on a dual carriageway I settled at 75- 80. As we approached the 50 limit a a qtr mile from a roundabout she passed me about 40 above, before braking hard. Back at the dealers I was asked by another lady sales person about my thoughts on the test bike and then as an aside casually mentioned that I chose not to keep up with their sales person, who although handling the speed triple with confidence, I considered injudicious, and added that there was a risk that an ‘alpha male’ type rider might have felt compelled to keep up. She was neutral in her response. I told her I liked the test bike very much and would think about it, then reiterated that I was merely pointing out my concern and mentioned that I only offered my thoughts as something for her to consider. As I left I mentioned that I was not a killjoy although I was the deputy head of the Hampshire Constabulary Traffic Division and introducing “Bikesafe” assessed rides and asked if she’d think about supporting us. I watched the colour drain from her face. I left my card.

Thanks for the feedback. These demo days help promote the dealership and my local IAM Group. Obviously the dealer does let customers do regular demos at other times.

@@mikeroberts That's good. Huge benefit following a decent rider...if nothing else it may cause some to think about their riding &/or restraint

Thanks. It's not one I've had a chance to ride, as there's no local Honda dealer any more.

Thanks for the comment/feedback. I try not to be in the nearer position for any longer than necessary. It's always a topic for much debate.

"Him", the rider in front is me. 😁Have you some specific examples timestamp)? Regarding mirror checks/lifesavers you may like this video of mine where I explain you do have to move your head BUT you don't need great big flamboyant play acting. ruclips.net/video/ECXvXXHtDHg/видео.html

Ah, you pointed this out as you undertook him😅

@@pinkyn0se Yes, that wide position made him vulnerable to undertakers and like many he was looking to join direct to lane 2.

Glad you like them!

😁 Two demo bikes. I always take the chance to ride other bikes when the opportunity arises.

Standards do seem to be dropping further.

Same to you. Sorry for the slow reply.

Ahh, that old chestnut again! Thanks for the question, Simon. I don't know what advanced course you are doing, but they are all based on Roadcraft and it makes no stipulation of which foot to stop with. I personally, as you have seen, favour right foot down as it is much more relaxing in stop start traffic. In fact some Police areas teach this way. If you look in Roadcraft it says "When the bike is stationary you should be able either to place both feet on the ground or balance with one foot while the other works a control." and "You need to be able to slow down or stop smoothly and with your machine fully under control". I've also quoted the IAM Course book for you "Advanced riders must be able to: Bring their machine to a controlled stop with the appropriate foot to the floor. In the last stages of stopping, advanced riders must decide which foot to use to balance the machine when they become stationary. There are perceived advantages when the machine is stationary to putting either foot down or even if appropriate, both feet at the same time. It may be advantageous in the event of a collision to have control of the rear brake to retain steering control. However, retaining control of the rear brake necessitates swapping feet in order to either select neutral or engage a gear to move off. At times it is easier to give up control of the rear brake in order to be able to select gears. The ability to use either foot or both feet, is advantageous if road conditions dictate a change from your normal action. The important outcome is that the machine comes to a controlled stop and is balanced effectively." So you can see, like so many things "It depends". Is it safe, smooth and under full control? Job done. Hope that helps.

@@mikeroberts Thank you. At least I have a 'tutored' retort when told I must use the right foot to cover the brake. Like you, I have always snicked into neutral if having to wait for traffic or light signals to change, it saves the clutch and means you are not sat there squeezing a heavy clutch for ages while you wait (1982 or 1988 clutch is not as light as a modern, hydraulic one, I bet!)

Thanks for watching. Keep safe.

The duck feet are only a problem if you don't move them when leaning significantly. As for left foot down, what's the issue? Either foot down is ok as long as it is controlled and safe.

I'm afraid you'll have to give me a clue as to where in the video, it's nearly 9 months ago that I rode this.

1hr 16 minutes

@@andrewedwards417 Good spot. 👍No excuses but you can see both the van and the property entrance were virtually invisible until on to top of them. I never claim to be perfect. 'Advanced riding' is about minimising the risk as much as possible. We can't eliminate it all.

Really? There's loads of spaces available and we were there a few minutes to meet up. Why squeeze two big bikes into one space?

Just a perception thing I guess

The only requirement is the bike can maintain the National Speed Limit of 70. I've successfully worked with an Associate on a 300cc scooter.

Funny you should say that. The Explorer screen is very good, but it can't defy physics. Here's my video on the subject. ruclips.net/video/BxjcWRimOl4/видео.html

One of the many Magpies or Crows about. Probably the Magpie.

Glad you found it useful.

Best of luck!

No, but I noticed the one on the left :) Thanks for watching and commenting (I couldn't resist)

@@mikeroberts😅sure, it's on the left

Sorry to hear your T100 died. Excellent job with the new one. You have some great footage there. How are you finding the solar panel to perform?

​@@mikerobertsThanks. Haven't really put the solar panel to the test. I only use the trail cam during the daytime (10 hours max) and bring it inside in the evening to review/download clips and recharge the internal lithium battery via USB cable. Plus, most times I have it mounted under a DIY 'weather hood' (5 gallon mixing bucket) to keep the lens dry, so the solar panel gets obscured. What's nice though is that there are no external ports that could allow moisture in. The power problem with the T100, I think, was due to a break in connection between the battery compartment and camera unit - there's a wire that runs through the middle hinge and I suspect over time it got tugged loose or kinked. With the T300/TC02 the battery compartment and solar panel are on the same side as the camera unit, which is better IMHO. So far so good anyway.