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Hello, I actually had to watch this one again as I couldn't remember which one I was using at the time lol that one is actually called 'The Dreadnought' at it's one of the best value for money towels I've ever used... www.in2detailing.co.uk/products/the-dreadnought-50x80-1400gsm-dual-twist-towel?variant=32882952568911&ghref=3377%3A554508 As for the gun/lance... This was my K4 which I'm not currently using but if you watch this video, I explain all the upgrades etc which will also work with the K2... The only thing I would say is, while I changed the hose for a 20m one, I would recommend that length for the K2, probably 10m would be enough, 15m maximum or you just lose too much pressure 👍🏼

Apologies, I forgot to add the link to the Kärcher video 🤦🏻‍♂️ ruclips.net/video/9jpuGmisf9w/видео.html

@SparkleanAutos I will get one ordered now 👍 I did see one of the other comments where you recommended a 10m, so I will order one of those also. Thanks for the reply 😊👍

@osidda1 any time... Sometimes it might take a day or 2 but I've replied to every single comment I've ever had on RUclips (well I hope I have lol) and if I can help anyone enjoy this hobby more then even better 👍🏼 You can get the hoses on the same sight btw, just make sure you check which connection you have as some of the Kärcher are a little different 👍🏼

@SparkleanAutos Thankyou, the Baskets are filling up haha. 👍🙏

I do indeed, and there's a method to that... I explained it better in this one - ruclips.net/video/BjJaOxgtJfA/видео.html

Thank you... And correct, the lance volume is irrelevant as the total volume will still include the same percentage from the lance 👍🏼 Personally I only ever use a total of 300-400ml in my lance depending on the size of the vehicle - and every lance/pressure washer combination I've tested always ends up somewhere around 90-110ml per litre so I generally go with 100ml per litre as 1%, as I don't think 10-20ml either way will make a huge difference, certainly not in my wallet anyway lol

Hi Andrew, and thank you!! There's a few that I would use regularly, but the citrus I probably reach for most often is the Autobrite Direct one... I have stronger pre-wash products but I just find it to be very versatile - ruclips.net/video/3YZMw_8xqDE/видео.html That was my initial review of it the first time I used it but have used it quite a bit since for other demonstrations too - like showing my preferred pre-wash process etc.

@@SparkleanAutos Awesome and great review of that, I love the close ups of the result, especially on pre washes on panels that have little-no protection (wax, polymer, Si02 infused wash etc). Because I believe in using what you got, when (pre wash and snow foam that came 'free' with 2x HydroV2 pressure bottles, spoiler alert, the pre-wash is awful) runs out, I am going to get this - there's a lot of pre-washes that do not work as intended and the results you got there with the autobrite citrus is exactly what I expected and want from that wash phase.

Hi Michael, really appreciate that and welcome to the channel 😁👍🏼 Yeah the GT range really is formidable! Decon isn't a product you'd want to use week in week out, but when you do need something with a kick, it's definitely up there with the best!

Exactly 👌🏼

💯 - I keep telling people this and they keep trying to tell me it's wrong... But to me this is the only way to thoroughly remove it while allowing it to do its job!

For the winter months, if you're using it regularly, I'd say 1:50 - 1:80, so for a 2L pump sprayer, that's 25ml-40ml of product and filled with water. If it's really dirty, plenty of road grime etc., You might want to go as strong as 1:30-1:40, or 50-70ml of product and filled with water. Hope that helps 👍🏼

@ Thanks, and this is ok for the whole car, or just the lower section? its mainly the sills and lower parts of the doors that require the TFR.

@simonbryant3828 it's safe for the whole car but honestly I just use it for the lower half, pretty much everywhere below the window line at this time of year 👍🏼👍🏼

@@SparkleanAutos Thanks, i will be ordering the product at some point this week.

@simonbryant3828 👌🏼 hope you enjoy using it as much as I do 👍🏼

I haven't actually... I have the Turtle Wax Graphene Flex spray (can't remember the exact name!) but I haven't gotten around to trying it yet

@@SparkleanAutos this was the one I seen, hybrid ceramic. Think it's cheaper than the autoglym too. ruclips.net/video/xZKWdyWe3ys/видео.htmlsi=DqttCGq1Ol9h7yGC

I'll keep an eye out for that one too, maybe pick it up this year 👍🏼👍🏼

I take it that was applying it wet???

@@SparkleanAutos yes as it was being applied in in Britain where it rains constantly. :) I actually put it on dry, correctly. It didnt last at all. I am now on meguiars gold which isnt good either. Collinate 486 is the best. I tend to wash with water only after a clay bar session then wax application. All these foam cleaners reduce the wax life span. i found this autoglym ceramic is great for a week and thats your lot. If you live in a sunny country it works i guess, but then , why do you need it?

I love in the UK too so I get the weather issue lol but I've used this a few times & applied it dry and I've found it lasts for months... Meguiar's products I wouldn't rate beyond being easy to use - they certainly don't last very long! When I applied this wet I found the same, absolutely rubbish and a waste of product. Could be that your paintwork needs a good decontamination first or maybe even a polish as applied dry this should last AT LEAST 4-6 weeks 🤔 and, if possible, avoid doing what a lot of RUclipsrs do which is apply water to it straight away to see it beading off 🤦🏻‍♂️ all protection, whether waxes, spray sealants or ceramic coatings, they all need time to cure and I prefer to keep them dry for a minimum of 24 hours if I can 👍🏼

Well I have both of the talked about MJJC ones, but like yourself I find they just go through product too quickly... Actually the one I use most often in the new Autobrite Direct one (I say new, it's been out for well over a year now lol) and I find it to be a great all round one, and the one I reach for regularly. I also still have the original Autobrite one, which has a great reputation but unfortunately you can't get them anymore! I have another couple of decent ones, one I got from Monstershine (Scottish based brand) which was surprisingly good, and the others I don't even know where I got them! So mainly the new AD one, but I don't have a link for it, you'll probably see it on their website and they tend to have regular sales too 👍🏼

@@SparkleanAutos Cheers Mark I was looking at the AD one a while back it's not too expensive either 👍

Hi Richard... The one I used in this video was from A-Kem (formerly Anachem Automotive) here in NI... They don't seem to stock it any more, according to their website but I've found one on Amazon that certainly looks very similar (apart from the colour!)... Reasonably priced too but, just to confirm, I haven't actually used this exact one, I'm just saying it looks to be the same foam cannon! amzn.to/4086sKI Hope this helps 😊👍🏼

Thanks Mark . I'm looking for an alternative to my MJCC pro v2 it just uses way too much product. I'm going to try magi seal for first time it looks perfect for winter time 😊

@Richardod1 it's a brilliant winter product, genuinely! There's not many products that I replace when they're empty (because I like trying so many different products!) but I've gone through a few bottles of this now! It's not cheap per 500ml but I find using 30-40mls in a 300-400ml solution is more than enough to cover pretty much any car!! To be honest, because of the ceramic content in Magiseal, I tend to use a cheaper one for applying it, rather than my regular foam cannon... And I always rinse it through with warm/hot water afterwards to clear the filters/gauzes 👍🏼

Hi Adrian, apologies for the delay. Technically there is no reason you couldn't apply a wax on top of the CS, provided you give it sufficient time to cure (ideally 24 hours in dry conditions if possible - this may be overkill but if possible it would give the product a better chance to reach its maximum potential!) Personally I'm not a fan of layering different types of protection, largely because I just feel it's a waste of time, money and effort. If you prep the paintwork as good as you can - chemical decontamination AND a good polish - then a product like CS will last for months and then be easily reapplied 4-5 months later... But like I say, there is no technical reason you couldn't apply a wax over it, once the CS (or any other protection) has been given time to fully cure 👍🏼

thanks for that bro very much Appreciated

@adrianmoore3118 any time 🤙🏼

Not really, especially if you rinse it off thoroughly and only use it as intended, as in once every 2-3 months to decontaminate the wheels... The reaction you see is the product with the oxidation around the particles that have come off the pads, not actually with the iron/steel itself... So whilst I wouldn't recommend using it every week and leaving it on the discs to dry, using it now & again AND properly rinsing it won't lead to any issues within the normal lifetime of a brake disc 👍🏼👍🏼

@SparkleanAutos allright, thank you!

Any time 👍🏼

Thank you Sean! That's exactly what I try to aim for with my videos - I'm not here to promote products, just give my honest opinion and it's nice when people appreciate it! 👍🏼

This one doesn't smell anywhere near as bad as some fallout removers/reactive wheel cleaners ... But that's just a byproduct of the active ingredient - thioglycolic acid - and if you want to decontaminate, it's just something you have to put up with... Or wear mask lol 👍🏼

@@SparkleanAutos thank you ! should i also get myself the RRR ? also can i use it on the body car also for iron remov? or you suggest something else . btw i heard that these products dont work well in direct sun / hot country where i live.. is it a problem?

@am_9944 I'll be perfectly honest, I haven't tried RRR yet so I can't really advise you either way on it. What I will say is that MWC is marketed as a reactive wheel cleaner - as in it's formulated specifically for use on wheels for removing brake dust as well as iron fallout particles... Whereas RRR is specifically formulated for removing fallout particles on all exterior surfaces. Now I'm not a chemist so I wouldn't being to presume what those differences actually are, or if it is simply a marketing difference of a very similar product... A lot of brands do this - Bilt Hamber have Auto Wheels and Korossol - and from my experience, the wheel-specific product does tend to have more of a foaming action when agitated, so perhaps they do contain more foaming agents/surfactants etc. Sadly though, I can't really give you a definitive answer 👍🏼

@am_9944 as for using in hot/dry climates... It is a factor but I'd say work in the shade and don't allow to dry in for too long - if these products do dry in you can reactivate them with snow foam.. but obviously don't leave them on for hours lol

@@SparkleanAutos thank you for the advise !

All manufacturers do this to some extent and I tend to ignore the dilutions of a snowfoam now!! I start off with 50ml to 450ml of water and if I want it thicker I'll add more in, no need to overcomplicate it or, more importantly, waste more money!!

@SparkleanAutos I don't have either of the products you used but still good to know if I move to Autobrite in future. Recently got a car I'm actually proud of so want to look after it. Never done any type of cleaning like this before but have BH Surfex HD (for Pre-Wash bottom third) and Koch Chemie GSF to lay on top of that (in hindsight I maybe should have got something slightly more aggressive) for contact I have gone with Koch Chemie Nano Magic Shampoo as I like the sealant coat it gives. Done loads of RUclips research and found the more I did the more I got confused by all the different types (market far too saturated!). Hopefully these give the results I want but if not once they are done I'll no doubt try something else.

@tenbob1973 there is an absolute minefield out there and there's no right or wrong way to go about things .. it's just trial and error until you find what works for you!! As for pre-wash, you're right that the Koch Chemie GSF might lack some kick, but if you combine it with the surfex HD filling the process in this video, you'll get good results... I don't find Autobrite Magifoam has any proper cleaning power, but it has a great consistency which is why it's so good for using this way 👍🏼 I haven't actually used GSF before but Koch Chemie don't make bad products!!!

Polar Blast is a pH neutral snow foam/pre-wash product so I would definitely use it before this 👍🏼👍🏼

The manufacturer states that Citrus pre-wash is wax/sealant safe from dilutions of 1:50 and lower - I haven't actually tested this so can't confirm that but knowing how extensively Garage Therapy test their products pre-release, I would suggest that's likely accurate. The Decon Shampoo, by its very nature, is not wax/sealant safe, certainly not for regular maintenance cleaning 👍🏼 All that being said, actually washing the car with pads, mitts, sponges (if you're into that sort of thing!), even with the gentlest pH neutral shampoos, will ALWAYS be more detrimental to waxes & sealants than pre-wash chemicals... Unless you're using highly caustic traffic film removers obviously! Hope that helps 👍🏼

@ I’ve only recently detailing in the last 12 months (came to it late in life 😞) Now we’re coming into the winter months again, I’m searching for a wax safe citrus pre-wash, so far, GT’s seems the best candidate. My routine is to apply a pre-wash, followed by a contact wash, dry off and finally a quick detail. Not sure if that is a “correct way” of doing things but, in my limited time, seems to work for me.

@philcameron3620 if you enjoy it and get the results you're after, then it certainly is the correct way 👍🏼 you'll get people telling you you should do this or do that and half of the time they contradict each other, causing confusion!! But in reality, while there's definitely things you shouldn't do, there's no 'right or wrong way' to do it, just what works for you! You're routing sounds good, no issues at all - the only thing I'd say, as mentioned about, is to use the pre-wash well diluted... This is much easier if you're doing it weekly too and applying a quick detailer every week so you're reducing the chances of dirt remaining on the car 👍🏼 keep it up 😁👍🏼

@@SparkleanAutos Thanks for the positive replies 👍🏻🍻😎 I’m new to all of this, and am finding it difficult to understand things/terms like PIR and how to work out what my pressure washer’s PIR is?

Ah ha... Well this should simplify it for you... ruclips.net/video/fZ_dyRofcHg/видео.html But having said that, for most machines/set ups it always works out around the same 90-110mls per litre is roughly 1% I have used it in the past but I kind of stick with 100mls per litre being 1%PIR as a difference of 15-20mls either way isn't really going to change anything in the real world! 👍🏼 It can still be interesting to figure out though so hopefully that video simplifies it, but if not ask me anything, any time 👍🏼

Hello, any protection can technically be used with another, provided that the original has been given sufficient time to cure (ideally 48 hours in a dry environment) but the question to really ask is "is it worth the effort?" BMW Hard Wax with Nano Technology is essentially a liquid wax... Quite possibly the same product as Sonax Super Liquid Wax but I can't confirm this... So applying a ceramic based sealant over something like that is a bit of a grey area... I doubt it would do any harm to a fully cured protection, but if the Rapid Ceramic Spray doesn't bond correctly to the BMW wax, then you could end up with a streaky finish, or worse still, completely waste your money 😅 I'm not a fan of combining different types of protections, unless specifically recommended by the manufacturer as part of a protection maintenance regime 👍🏼

👍🏼

That's a very good question & like any protection product, the more work you put into the paintwork preparation, the more you're going to get out of the protection! Is it essential?? No... Is it beneficial?? Absolutely! I would, at minimum, do a chemical decontamination when using a product like this - so tar & glue remover followed by a fallout remover... If you have time, energy and the right conditions, you can clay bar & polish the paintwork too... But the chemical decon would definitely be a minimum to get the protection to last 👍🏼👍🏼

Much appreciated Daniel, thank you 😊👍🏼

Go to 2:02 and watch me remove it... press the release catch and slide it off, it's not difficult - refitting is there reversal of this process, push it on until it clicks in place, even easier than the removal... No engineering degree required 👍🏼

5-10 years is fairly decent for the price I'd say!! Tbh, the K3 isn't really a massive difference but still good value! If your budget stretches far enough, I'd highly recommend the K4, much more noticeable difference 👌🏼👍🏼

It's still my preferred tyre product 👌🏼 thanks for the kind words Ian 😁👍🏼

Hello 👋🏼 Personally I just keep this in my arsenal for really dirty jobs - it's a very powerful cleaner and it can even be used as low as 80:1, but I would still go with something milder for a regular pre-wash - they also do a citrus pre-wash (which I actually have but haven't got around to using yet!), which I would use with a snow foam - but that's just my preference 👍🏼 Unfortunately there is no 'one size fits all' pre-wash in my opinion - you need a good regular maintenance product that's safe to use on a weekly basis, and you need something like this product for when you need a bit more kick! 👍🏼

Well they're 2 very different products - Purple Velvet is a nice shampoo, but it's more like an every day shampoo for maintenance washing and just enjoying going out and cleaning your motor Decon shampoo is more of a specialised product - to be used to either help rejuvenate fading sealants or, when they're starting to break down, at the right concentration it can't be used to help remove what's left. I like both, but it's a case of horses for courses lol 👍🏼

@@SparkleanAutos thank you for the good explanation it helped a lot

@darren2656 Amy time 👍🏼

It's definitely not suited for this type of job!!

@@ninonico9927 Hello. The Ava model I use is the P80 Master 👍🏼 been using it for 2 years now with no issues

@@SparkleanAutos OK nice, thanks 👍

@@ninonico9927 Any time 👍🏼

👍🏼 correct .. although to be more accurate, decon can aid in the removal of old waxes and sealants but it won't necessarily strip them... At the right concentration it can actually be useful for unclogging ceramic coatings etc 👍🏼

It wasn't ideal for this car in this condition!! 👍🏼

You're very welcome 😁👍🏼

I'm not entirely sure about the chemical make-up of Active Snow Foam but it's definitely a different product 👍🏼 As for the coloured snow foam, not really my thing but I'm maybe just a bit too old to get the enjoyment out of that 🤣🤣 Thank you 👍🏼

Hope you like it - personally I'd stick with the dry method! 😃👍🏼

It's a good question - I address this in the first video by adding control lines with the pressure washer... There's a link to that video in the description but I'll add it below ruclips.net/video/k3Eky2hYKxk/видео.htmlsi=duykr7wMz962Vdor So the point of this follow-up video was to compare these 2 products side by side... Rinsing with water wasn't part of the comparison so I didn't bother on this occasion 👍🏼

Thank you Peter, that was exactly my intention with this video and I've actually just recorded a follow up video using the same cleaner but without the pressure washer!! Something a lot of people have mentioned makes them a little nervous! 👍🏼

This product can actually give up to 6-12 months worth of protection... If you're wanting a 'top up' wax over that then really any that you enjoy using would be suitable .. if it's something to apply every 4-6 weeks then I would suggest a liquid wax or spray wax, but these aren't products I typically use so I couldn't give any proper recommendations 👍🏼

Products definitely help but you're absolutely right John, the process is critical!

Hi, this is taken directly from the FAQs on AutoGlym's own website - "Can Rapid Ceramic Spray be used on glass and plastics? No, Rapid Ceramic Spray has been designed specifically for paintwork and colour coordinated plastics only." So, no, they don't recommend using it on headlights 👍🏼

@@SparkleanAutos thank you

@@SparkleanAutos thank you

@abdulbeany1894 any time 👍🏼

Thanks 😃👍🏼

Bottle was empty before the end of the video lol

Indeed, and when you reduce the dilution to say 100mls per litre of solution, it becomes less effective, in fact on cost-effectiveness, you need twice as much Autofoam compared with other leading products which cost twice as much per 5L... So effectively they cost the same per wash!

You're not wrong and I've had this discussion with ValetPro, however, this video series isn't about finding the right product for the job in hand, it's about testing products against the claims made on the bottle - this claimed to remove road grime yet even at double the recommended concentration, it had little to no impact. But it will be tested again on something more suited to the products abilities 👍🏼

I have 3 of those sprayers - cost effective, reliable and good quality! I found the same with magifoam, that's why I started tinkering with my application - I find this means I use a lot less product and get far better results! 👍🏼

They really do .. pretty much everyone in the UK starts out with AutoGlym but then as we get more 'into' car care, we move onto more niche brands etc and people tend to get a bit brand-snobby about AutoGlym - but they actually make really decent, easy to use products that just get the job done! 👍🏼

It was 1:100 in the spray bottle - the maximum recommended while still being LSP safe 👍🏼