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Yes, it is a reliable bike if you don't tune the engine. If you're buying a used one, ask if the oil changes have been done every 2.500 km, and if the engine has been tuned. Especially the 70cc kits should be avoided. The best way to determine if a bike is worth considering (when you buy a used one) is to take a close look to the appearance: is it clean, are the wheels and spokes clean, is the chain clean and well lubricated. These bikes are reliable as long as they are well kept. Neglect is easy to spot, I would avoid those bikes if you're not technically inclined. But with a little bit of effort, you can turn a half decent bike into a reliable commuter bike.

@Carnold_YT I'm not technically inclined for now but there are not many choices to go after except this one for me. Pretty good advice over all, thanks!

Well, it is something that I do mention in every other Lexus / Toyota test.

Thanks for watching!

Bedankt voor het kijken!

Een. Vraag bij het gebruik van de Kickstarter en na de compressie slag een mechanisch geluid aan de rechterkant is dit de Veer van de Kickstarter of de koppeling bij electrische start geen mechanische geluid aan wezig dus eerst maar even vragen ​.....het is trouwens een hanway muscle 50 met het zelfde blokje de vorige eigenaar heeft er mee lopen klooien met het gevolg dat de timing niet juist stond een inlaat klepje Krom ook was de rokker afgebroken uiteraard alles gerepareerd en vernieuwd en bewerkt..nu kijken of het ook weer wil lopen.het filmpje geeft mij de juiste informatie.... zover Top nu alleen even weten of het geluid er bij hoort van de Kickstarter Mvg Patrick

​@paltrick48 De terugslag van de kickstarter moet bij het monteren wel goed afgesteld worden. Als dit niet gedaan wordt, dan geeft dit inderdaad een afwijkend geluid. Rond 35:30 zie je dit in deze video.

Het probleem is opgelost even opnieuw gedaan en klaar geen enkele rare geluiden meer aanwezig draait mooi rond morgen Blok monteren en aansluiten dan zouden we in theorie moeten kunnen rijden... bedankt voor je reactie en een fijn weekend Mvg Patrick

@paltrick48 Mooi dat het gelukt is Patrick!

When manoeuvering at low speeds (pulling out of a parking space and making a 90 degree trun right away) I experienced the same. I recognized it from cars with mechanical all wheel drive. I think it is the diff in the front axle, those can grind pretty bad with the wheels turned into full lock.

I have this one: mash-point.nl/product/olietemperatuurmeter-voor-50-125-250-cc/ This one from Louis is the same and a bit cheaper: www.louis.de/artikel/t-t-oeltemperatur-direktmesser-fuer-diverse-fahrzeuge/10035370?disableRecommendedDomainPanel=true

Oops, you're right. I'll include them in the description a.s.a.p.!

I will do that, in the description of the video, as soon as possible!

The new Swift with the 1.2 mild hybrid, the Z12E.

@Carnold_YT ok so no 1.0 boostejet hybride engine anymore? Because til 2022 years i found the 1.0 and 1.2 hyrbid models but dont know of the 1.2 is also a turbo engine. Because the 1.0 has 112hp and the 1.2 83hp?

@@anthonyg87 The new model generation is only available with the new Z12E engine, which I featured in the review video: ruclips.net/video/O-IbcE75Tyk/видео.htmlsi=4PNdM6A3RwASa8tg&t=271 The BoosterJet engines are no longer available for the Swift. They were fantastic engines, if you can get your hand on a low-mileage Swift with a BoosterJet engine, take your chance!

@@Carnold_YT zie het inderdaad. Is dit ook dezelfde motor als de 2021/2022 modellen? Ben totaal niet bekend met deze auto's. Mijn vrouw vind de swift namelijk wel een leuk stadwagentje en mijn voorkeur heeft dan weer de hybride modellen ivm het verbruik.

@@anthonyg87 Het is een compleet nieuwe motor, ontzettend degelijk gebouwd en zoals je in deze video kunt zien, ook nog eens heel erg zuinig.

Noted, you're on the list!

Thank you!

Thank you, I appreciate your comment!

Good luck! 😉

Thank you for watching!

How is the brake fluid level? That also triggers a warning light.

@ Yes, you are correct but it triggers another warning light, this one is like an exclamation but mine is like a circle with pads…. Thank you very much

@@rutopovi This is how you can check and fix your brake wear sensors, I hope it is helpful: ruclips.net/video/lixWGjc_EVA/видео.htmlsi=GsH5GI99Pr7bCi9v&t=1638

@@Carnold_YT Thank you very much. I already saw this video in the past. Just in case I put an electrical bridge, shortcut in the connectors of the two pads sensors….so resistance is cero under the ecu point of view. My plan is to follow the sensor wiring to the ecu (although I don’t know where these cables should be connected) and find if cero ohms looses somewhere…. I would like to know if it goes directly to the main ECU or to another small ecu …for example abs control ecu….lol lol…if it exists… I need to check the ecu pin out……

@@rutopovi I have to look that up, but I am pretty sure that it goes directly to the instrument panel. The brake wear sensor does not go to the ABS ECU - I will look this up for you. Maybe I can send you a scan of the diagrams. Just email me on arnold@carnold.nl

We'll see what happens Mike, maybe one day I end up running a Lexus-ECU empire 😉

The initial problem was engine knock. I disassembled the engine to inspect the crankshaft. I rebuilt the engine using new gaskets, this failed head gasket was in the gasket kit.

The Yaris is slightly better in terms of fuel economy. However, the Swift is much, much less complicated and more affordable to buy and to maintain.

Dank je! Normaalgesproken test ik die apps niet, daarvoor is een persoonlijke account nodig, en deze testauto's hebben dat niet. Ze komen uut de testvloot van de importeur.

@@Carnold_YT Oh gaaf om te weten, ik wil volgend jaar namelijk ook een yaris cross, lijkt me echt geweldig. Nogmaals bedankt voor de ins en outs te laten weten! Blijf zo door gaan, mijn steun heb je :)

@@Benswaglol Dank je!

From a practical point of view, the smaller Yaris Cross is the better car in my opinion.

Thank you!

Yes, I have reused it, but I think it is the original molding from factory. So it has been out 2 times already. I need to replace it when I get the new windscreen. Thanks for watching!

@ I was surprised that it was reusable. My Celsior's heat reflective glass has deteriorated and will not pass inspection, so I need to replace it. thank you

That is a good question, I think the Mazda will do very well too in the long run. The SkyActiv engines are very well built too. I think it is a matter of taste, the designs of both cars are very different. From an economical and practical view, I think the Swift wins, with better fuel economy and slightly roomier interior. But the Mazda2 is a generation older and doesn't have all the electronic nannies. And there is much to say for that. Thanks for watching!

I should have pointed that out more clearly - normally the car is very easy to drive and quite comfy. It can eat tyres when you're in a more powerful mode (and have no self control). Thanks for your comment!

Thank you so much for watching Mike! We are considering the pre-facelift for the future replacement of our Prius. I've always been a Nissan owner, had 5 Nissans at one time. I wouldn't mind owning a Juke as a family car.

FIPG is an amateur mechanic's best friend - as we don't get paid by the hour 😉

Thank you, that is nice to hear! Here is the link to the article (Online version, in PDF): carnold.nl/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Nieuwe-Suzuki-Z12E-driecilinder_-beproefde-techniek-voor-de-eeuwighei_-www.amt_.nl_.pdf And here is a translated (by Google) in PDF: carnold.nl/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Suzuki-Z12E-article.pdf

I think a little bit of anti seize goes a long way. Especially when the old plug was seized, the threads possibly are lightly damaged from overtightening. A small lick of anti seize can prevent further damage. I removed my plugs once after this episode and they came out fine. Thanks for watching Mike!

In my experience, every PHEV is capable of doing my daily commutes completely as EV. They really work well!

What are your experiences with these wheels and tyres?

@@Carnold_YT the rims: before we had 13" Toyota steel rims (about 7 kg/rim): now the forged aluminum/magnesium-rims are 14“ and 4,4 kg/rim. Feeling: swifter, more precise in corners - at the same time they don't seem so loud and dang-dang-dang on bad roads. (But this maybe too comes from the new tyres (the old ones were vredestein quadtrac four-seasons, about 8 years old).) Tyres Maxxis: very good in corners, very easy to control (cornering by sound ;-). And they should be good in wet conditions.

@@taymot2131 Thanks! Isn't it amazing how much those small changes can do for a car? And it doesn't cost a fortune too.

@@Carnold_YT Yesss - it's the shoes of the car! In Germany you can get the 4 Fuchs rims from 150€ onward (when they were new in 2001 the cost a crazy 1.300€ 🤣).

You are right that RTV isn't required, however, I apply a thin coat to make sure it fills in minute scratches. In my experience these 30 year old cars have been in all kinds of workshops where good working methods aren't the standard. Like prying with screwdrivers between mating surfaces. That why I call it 'cheap insurance' - a little bit of RTV goes a long way in filling op these scratches. After all, it is a pressurized system. Thanks for your comment!

@@Carnold_YT you’re welcome, thank you for your reply! makes complete sense and i understand those scratches now that i’m disassembling, easy to create especially on aluminum. my ‘92 sc400 has 150k miles on the odometer and i don’t think anybody has even opened the lower timing covers. pretty sure the deepest anybody has been is the distributors & rotors. (timing belt looks new too, 1uz’s are my favorite and just goes to show how well Toyota did with the engine)

​@Jack-jw3rd I envy you, working on a 1UZ in a SC400... In the LS you barely have space in front of the engine to work. That's why I remove the radiator to create some work space. I was amazed by the amount of room for activities in the engine bay of an SC 400. Good luck with your project!

@@Carnold_YT thank you! i still removed the radiator anyways, gives me enough room to get an air gun down by the crankshaft. however, i can literally stand in my engine bay now lol, its pretty nice

Thanks Joe, I'm stoked with the 'new' wheels 😊

@@Carnold_YT Sanding down the rust on those 4 wheels' complex curves was a LOT of hand-labor sir! #Ouch!

@@joeteejoetee Yeah, I felt that for a week. Good thing I didn't need to drive a stick shift after this job 🙂

Yes, it is.

Hey Mike! Yes, it is intended for our daughter, at the moment the mrs. and I drive it as a daily car. It is a convenient, reliable and fun car to drive. Thanks so much for watching!

Ik hanteer normaliter 0,05 mm klepspeling voor de inlaatklep en 0,1 mm voor de uitlaatklep. Succes met de reparatie!

Same here Joe. Same with gear-selector levers for automatic transmissions that have a manual function. In my opinion you need to pull them for an upshift and push for a downshift. Very few manufacturers get this right.

@@Carnold_YT My LS-400 is so quiet I have (MANY more times than I wanted to) tried to start it while it was already running, and grinding the starter gear. So I'd really like a "fake" V-8 engine sound generating device, or at least an engine-Idling one...

@@joeteejoetee That even happened to the Toyota-engineers who developed the car!

@@Carnold_YT Wow that is great insider knowledge up there! I _dread_ needing to replace my starter motor.........some day.......

No problem 👍

Thanks for watching, much appreciated!

Yes, those are some of them. When you enter the 'N' menu on the center screen, you'll find about five settings that come with a disclaimer that says not to use them on public roads. Basically these are the settings that make the car go sideways more than going straight ahead. I'll do a short follow up video on your question.

@@Carnold_YT thanks. Would appreciate a video on that 👍

​@@davidd7713 I actually just uploaded it, here is the link: ruclips.net/video/zJkkSrpyg08/видео.htmlsi=zyw2_MI1XDNfEV77