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Hm interesting idea. Was there any particular tool that you were curious about?

@@chilledspeed start with ratchet , socket set and others for fix a car 😆

Thank you! and damnit, you're not the first person to comment about the smoke alarms haha. the batteries are changed now though so no more chirp sounds will be in my videos.

@@chilledspeed haha! I thought I was going mad, I even paused the video to go check that it wasn't mine cherping 😄 Still awaiting the call from VW to tell me how much this is going to cost me.

Honestly if your coil springs are just old and worn out, putting a fresh set of OEM springs would probably raise the height of the car just by the nature of them being brand new (it wouldn't raise a lot, but a little). If you wanted to go beyond that, I know that they make lift kits for some VWs that are essentially metal spacers that attach to the existing suspension, but I personally have never messed around with those at all so I can't speak to the quality or functionality of them. Quick story: i actually had a used Mark III GTI a while back (with the VR6 engine). I remember changing the springs once on that car with some new OEM springs, and it honestly almost looked like I put a lift kit on it ha. The distance between the fenders and the tires ended up being more than I thought it was going to be. There was a solid 4 inches of space. I thought there would be maybe 3 inches at the most. It probably won't be quite that drastic for you if you did springs, but it could still be all you need.

They started to have the button in 2011. Mine is a 2012. The only mk6 GTIs that don't have the button are the 2010s

yeah it's a called a strut nut socket

It's very satisfying ha. It was long overdue too

I could have just done springs, but my car is 12 years old, has just over 100,000 miles, and still has all the original suspension parts. I wasn't going to go all the way in there and not replace the struts too. I plan on keeping the car for a while yet so I was more than fine with it.

Happy that it helped!

I went with Powerstop. Part #S6384. My mk6 has the 272mm Bosch rear brake calipers (vs the 282mm).

Nice! Yeah it's a fun car. Especially for performance mods

Happy it helped!

Yeah, I'll admit the issue that caused the P2187 code on mine is probably different than most other people because it had to do with the aftermarket air intake that I have. But before I discovered that leak in the intake coupler, one thing that I was actually pretty convinced was the cause of it was the mass airflow sensor being either dirty or faulty. That's a possibility you could investigate.

Haha yup. I actually did finally do that recently so that annoying sound won't be in my videos anymore.

For just the bulbs you definitely don't have to remove the bumper. I think the bumper has to come off if you're removing the entire headlight assembly though. I know some people say that, to replace the driver side headlight bulb, you have to jack the car up, remove the fender cowlings and go at it from underneath, but I've done it without going through that (granted I did have to contort my hand pretty severely to get it). Also, removing the top of the fuse box gives you a little extra room for your hand.

(sorry if you got a notification that I disliked your comment, I clicked the dislike totally by accident. then I unclicked it right away and clicked the like button. oops)

I used the one made by Febi Bilstein. 06J903133A

It's the one that came with the bleeder. Yours doesn't fit?

nope just tries to cross thread and leaks

Hm that's odd. I wonder if anyone else has had this problem. Is your car a mk6 GTI like mine? (I know the bleeder should be universal, but I'm curious).

@@chilledspeed Mines a mk5 but with the TSI I always have trouble finding parts as some are mk5 some are mk6.

Too true. I've never had a sunroof leaking problem like this before. The next thing I'm probably going to have to do is pull up all the carpet to let it fully dry out so mold doesn't start to grow.

Thank you! I'll also be posting a video of me bleeding the whole system soon (not my next video but probably the one after).

Glad to help! Same here. I think every single video I watched too said that there was no way around removing the bumper to get that fog light out and I thought to myself "no way am I doing that" ha.

I knew I should have just replaced those things when I had everything disassembled ha. At least I don't have to re-disassemble everything to switch them out.

@@chilledspeed that is true, those hoses are pretty simple to replace. Pay attention to the brake fluid if that is still good, you are still bussy.... Better save that sorry! Good luck 👍

I assume you mean the 2 guide pins (or slide pins, as some people call them). I don't believe you're correct on that. Are you sure?

@@chilledspeed 2 pivot pins need lubricant . He doesn't know anything

I would agree with you if those sway bar links had grease fittings, but they don't. They're sealed from the factory.

I got a new set of calipers but I haven't had a chance to install them yet. Soon though!

From the back, there is a subframe crossmember that sits just passed the gas tank. I slid my floor jack in at an angle toward the passenger side (to clear exhaust pipes) and I raised the rear end from there. My jack is just long enough to reach it. Then I also put jack stands under the jacking points on the sides.

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It can be....what?

yeah I remember that little 5mm bolt...it was a pain ha. Glad you got yours done!

wow i didnt even know that. that is dumb

That O2 sensor spacer was from 42 Draft Designs. It was installed by the shop that did my stage 2 tune (which was about 6 years ago at this point). I wish I could provide a link but, unfortunately, they've discontinued it since then. Sorry!

Nah im no where near south Florida. Just make sure you're drilling right in the center and use a drill thats big enough so that when the drill gets passed the screw head, it'll pop off the shank. Then you should be able to pry the filter holder apart.

I drilled until the screw head came off. Then I was able to pry the plastic holder apart and the rest of the screw came out. I actually have a full length video of this job on my channel.

ruclips.net/video/SUgCeTxN0rs/видео.html

good call! yeah surprisingly the fuel that came out of my filter didn't look bad at all. I figured 11 years with the original filter was long enough but im thinking I probably could have gone a little longer. I guess it all depends on how many miles you put on your car. My mileage is slightly lower than average.

@chilledspeed I believe what I replaced was the original filter. I bought the truck with around 85k miles, I think I'm around 94k now. I've had it about a year. Pretty cool for an 03 I think

glad to help!

I started hearing a squealing noise when the engine was under heavy load and the revs were low. for instance: sometimes here and there I set off in 2nd gear from a standstill instead of 1st gear and I would hear the noise. And then it got worse and it started squealing even when I would set off in first gear. The tensioner was the most likely and least expensive culprit, so I did decided to replace that first and that fixed it.

@@chilledspeed Thanks for those details, much appreciated! Glad that was indeed the fix.

glad to help!@@tedjohnson64

I actually didn't feel much play at all, no. And that confused me when I first tried to diagnose what was causing the clunking noise because I would try to locate something that was loose but couldn't pinpoint anything. But a lot of other people said it was most likely that stabilizer links based on the sound so I decided to switch them out for new ones beacuse its a pretty easy, quick job. And sure enough I discovered that the driver side link was bad when I removed it and felt the play in the joint. But no nothing felt loose when it was still on the car.

@@chilledspeed cheers! They are cheap and easy enough to replace I’m Gonna go for it this week. Just replaced my control arms so I guess now tnat that’s tightened up it’s letting other loose components be more exposed

Yeah I'm getting ready to give the rest of the entire front suspension a complete refresh because now something in my passenger side front starts clunking whenever I turn hard to the left (pretty sure its a worn-away bushing in the control arm but could be something else. Haven't looked at it closely yet). So first it was stab links, now it's this. All the other parts probably aren't far behind so that's why I'm thinking about doing it all at once ha.

The same noise have and control arm bush...

Shouldn't change anything about the procedure at all.