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I worked in an industry that soldered a lot of stuff and you sir get it. A good soldered joint is a work of art. 😊

Great Video! Bonus points for pronouncing it correctly as well ;)

Your vid was excellent. Thank you !!!!! I worked in a computer manufacturing plant for 15 years and often soldered. You reinforced the "rules" I had learnt.

Very informative video! Just the Refresher Course I needed.

Cool thanks.

What I need help with is soldering wires on guitar components. Switches, pots, grounding. I struggled on my last guitar and would be embarrassed if anyone who knew what they were doing saw behind my pick guard. Any good vids out there for that sorta thing?

Are the Live ENGLISH SOONEYO of the DORAEMON CARTOON

Awfully Aussie sounding Canadian here LOL ;)

Are you a Professional Electrician? Are you IPC Certified? This is BS!

My wires were already turning black but the solder still does not want to melt on the copper. What could be the issue here? The solder i use is a lead free type, it got 40/60 written on it.

What temperature do you need to make the wire, in just two seconds, hot enough to melt the solder all by itself? At 300 degrees centigrade, I can melt solder on the tip, and I can tin the tip just fine. But no matter how long I keep the tip on the wire (using also some extra solder on the tip, like you're showing in the video), the solder won't melt when I touch the other side of the wire with it . Neither does it at 350 or 375 degrees. Should I go even higher? Should I try 400 degrees? Or maybe even more? Which temperature works for you? I'm using lead-free solder.

Snarugh ❄️❄️

good advice

650* is the best temperature to solder at?

if the tip is excessively old and deteriorated like that, it seems inevitable to use some agressive way to return it to shape, or can you do that with some simple gentle method?

Can you make a video about solder fine electronics. I still fry the chips or the board.

An alcohol lamp will burn without any soot

''begginer tools'' 115 only for soldering iron that sir is not for begginers

Great video. I always struggled with soldering until I found some paste called Nokorode. I put that on the wires to tin the ends, which it does instantly causing the solder to wick into the wires. Your video showed me what I was and I am still do wrong. I will adopt your methods for better soldering joints.

Thanks

Always use lots of flux. Clean solering iron heat point with a file. Heat up wire. Temu ones that cost 15$ are ok.

What are some good tips about gauging the proper temperature for soldering and desoldering?

Absolute best how-to video on proper soldering techniques and steps all well outlined. With all the theory they teach you in engineering school soldering is a lost art and if you work with electronics you can't avoid it. But no one is around to teach you either. Thanks for this guide.

Fantastic tutorial on soldering.

If your in a real pinch, no lighter or heat gun, hover or rapidly glide (both methods keep you from melting your heat shrink) your solder iron around your heat shrink to shrink it down.

Dude, invest in a microphone. Terrible audio and volume.

Nice vid, but Inches & faherenheit? - c'mon, get with the 20th century!😁

THANKS VILL VERY INFORMATIVE 😀

Sponge doesn’t melt either……

Lead is not toxic! I repeat lead is not toxic! Lead oxide is toxic but Lead itself is not toxic!

My tips for great wire soldering: 1) DON'T solder. Use a crimped connection instead if at all possible, these are superior to wire soldering (I'll intersperse points as to why in the following) 2) Don't make too long a joint. Electrically, a tiny amount of of overlap is more than enough. You twist the wires so they stay together long enough for you to solder them. A long joint is no stronger or more conductive than a short one, just very stiff, unwieldy and likely to cause breakage (why you should follow tip 1) 3) Be quick. Don't poke around it too long, a couple of seconds is almost too long. Towards this, you should make your iron hot as hell, and use a thick tip with a large heat capacity. You must make the joint hot enough so it wicks up the solder before all the heat buggers off up and down the wire, Make the joint hot as hell but keep the rest of the wire cool, as not to melt the insulation or have the solder wick up the wire. IMHO the tip about having it wick up to the insulation is wrong - instead of stiffening the wire with solder, do that with an extra layer of heatshrink, because (tip 1): 4) transition between the soldered and clean wire is a weak point. When the wire flexes, the stress is concentrated here, and the wire is likely to break here, either by strain or by material fatigue. This is less of a problem with (tip 1), but if you MUST solder the wires: 5) stiffen and immobilise the joint with heatshrink or by attaching it to other wires in the strand. This reduces flexing stresses and reduces the chance of breakages. Still, again, (tip 1). This is also the reason why you should prefer heatshrink over electrical tape, it's stiffer. But: 6) electrical tape doesn't suck. The electrical tape YOU are using sucks. Almost all of electrical tape you can buy anywhere is too soft and has gooey adhesive which makes everything sticky, including the outside of the tape. They can sell this rubbish only because everyone else sells the same type of rubbish, so you won't know it sucks. I absolutely hated electrical tape too, until I discovered Scotch Super 33+ tape. That just works. Doesn't come loose and expose the wire, doesn't goo up everything everywhere and doesn't need half a reel of tape to do anything. Thick and quite stiff material, strong and very thin layer of stable adhesive. Use your current electrical tape to tape the bag containing the rest of your electrical tape shut and throw it into the bin, and get this stuff. Other reputable tape manufacturers probably have products that are as good, but this is the one I was recommended, tested, and found great. Rather than saving money by getting some cheap tape from the supermarket or home improvement shop, take the money you wanted to spend and burn it, that's exactly as useful. 7) DO use lead-based solder if you can get it. Lead-free does not only need more heat and make ugly joints, it's also stiffer and more brittle. One of the primary modes of electronics failure after the switch to lead-free have become cracked solder joints, which almost never happened with lead-based. I'm NOT ranting against ROHS here - for mass-production, it is a problem that can be solved by design. But I resent that good quality lead solder is made unavailable to us hobbyists, and we're reduced to using Chinese solder of highly variable quality. I'd love me some Stannol lead-based solder, only they don't make it any any more. Kester is a good alternative, but you have to get it from the US. On the whole, prefer crimping - particularly in automotive or other applications where vibrations occur, this is vastly superior. You do not anneal the wire by heating it. You don't melt the insulation. You have less of a chance of introducing potentially corrosive flux into the wire (if your solder sucks). An appropriately thick crimp, crimped with a (preferably ratcheting) good set of crimping pliers generates so much pressure that it has no chance of pulling out, and makes an impeccable electrical connection. It stiffens the wire allright, but the transition is less abrupt than with solder, so it doesn't break as easily.

At last, somebody saying solder-ing rather than sodder-ing!!

I used to make big globby solders that break. Learning "heat the joint, apply the solder" changed my whole perspective. Also, using the right size solder/tip for the job is so important.

some guy there

why people want to make solder junctions on wire that handles considerable loads is beyond me. the solder is going to get hot and your joint is going to come apart. sometimes you just need to use a wire nut.

Another tip: try to avoid conical soldering tips. They're one of the worst when it comes to heat transfer. Chisel tips or some other perform much much better. A beginner fault is to think that the smaller the more precision, but in reality all you need for precision is good flux and a good heat transfer. Go with tips a big as you can and as small as you need to.

If lead is so bad for you, then why does it taste sweet? Nom nom nom!

do you save your pieces of the terminatior, T-1000, to give back to him if he comes?

i wrap a small piece (three or so strands) of copper around two frayed ends meshed together, literally stabbed into each other, but considering the x technique which i have used before but not because i knew what i was doing

Very professional video with great instruction.

Great soldering video! Thanks for the pro tips. Great stuff! ⚡️

650 ° Fahrenheit are about 350 ° Celsius 1 inch cable is approximately 25mm cable length. Before I turn off the soldering iron, I add more tin to it and let it cool down. Only when I need the soldering iron again do I heat it up and remove the excess tin. Then I have a clean tip again.

Very nice instruction. Would the ultimate finish be to use a small piece of electrical tape cut down to the space of open wire, then slide a shrink wrap over that?

One does not simply use the flat edge of the iron to apply more heat if the target is so small that you only can use the tip. I'm not sure if my tips are faulty, but seems to me that the very end of the tip is quite cool. It doesn't help much to get these sharp tips, if the sharp end itself cannot be used to solder.

Good stuff. Thanks

Thanks!

You managed to hit on EXACTLY what I missed in the many other tutorials I’ve watched. Very few people go into specifics, UP CLOSE, of how to hold and manage the wire, solder, and soldering iron. I have been melting solder over and around my wires….painting it on. I didn’t even realize flux was in my solder (it is Rosin Core 60/40 lead & tin). You are an excellent instructor and I’m so happy I found your video today. Thank you!

This is one of the best tutorials I have seen. Great explanations with good pacing. The excellent closeup photography is very helpful and I appreciate that you include potential mistakes and how to solve them. As of today, you have taught over half a million people how to safely solder wires-that's a huge accomplishment! Can't wait to explore your channel and see what else you teach.

While heatshrink is preferred, electrical tape will last a very long time if applied properly by giving it a bit of stretch while wrapping. There's electrical tape on wires under the hood of my truck that's been there 20 years.

There are MANY awful! soldering videos on the internet. This is not one of them! Good job, pretty good video.