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Thanks!

As a certified solderer, I used the clips of my helping hands, as a heat sink so the solder does not wick too far up the wire. They will also protect any heat shrink tubing from premature shrinking. For my solder cleaning I only used filtered water from a room temperature container. Another thought. Does the Hakko solder station remind you of something designed by Playskool?

Brilliant thank you 👍🇬🇧

Why didn’t you tin the wires first?

I use flux on the joint before applying solder then you can quickly go over the joint with the soldering iron to get some heat and and the flux helps get a great joint because it improves flow.

Definitely not the proper way to mate two wires. The mechanical strengt is not good enough. Solder is a weak metal. Twists the two wires as if you were to use a marette. Even before any solder is applied, the link is now as strong as copper is. Adding solder will complete the work. The end result may not be as good estethically, but it is way more sturdyer.

I would like to see you solder the aluminum wires of lipo batteries used in the drone industry into the "XT-60" connectors that have a gold plating without melting the wire insulation.

I stopped using this method a few years ago, I now use solderseal heat shrink, far faster and less hassle. The end result is you get a soldered and sealed joint all in one step.

Definitely a great video, my only input to the video is when you said something about laying the wires on top of each other (which is called a Lap Solder) how they are weak. I disagree, because in MIL spec soldering Class III (IPC-A-610 and J-STD) This is an approved method on splicing wires and is a very strong connection. I personally use this method (only when needed, they don't really like splicing at all) when building wire harnesses for military purpose. Although the method that you are using is very superior. That's all.

lead metal is not toxic It was an experiment done by all first year metallurgist till ethics committees ( of lawyers who never did any science ) banned it . So we dried out some lead sinkers to a constant weight then swallowed them and over the next 3 days they were recovered washed & dried to a constant weight The before & after weights are the same down to 4 decimal points of a gram Lead oxide OTOH is slightly toxic but has a minimal effect on adults as all it does is bind to haemoglobin preventing oxygen uptake and when it becomes critical can cause secondary problems from plain old anemia . In children a LARGE amount of lead can cause regression of brain development due again mostly to anemia and the lead transferring to the neurons . The amount of lead oxide generated when soldering should be minute as the fluxes convert any lead oxide either back to metallic lead or to lead nitrate . Now the copper OTOH is highly toxic both as a metal and as an oxide in fact it is toxic to the touch, toxic if exposed to blood ( cut finger ) toxic if ingested ( from stripping wire between your teeth ) toxic if swallowed , toxic if breathed in . Please save you hysterical and chemically ignorant health warnings for things that actually are dangerous . And just so you know I have diploma and used to monitor the heat of over 800 lead workers at our 8 battery plants 15 scrap yards and 3 smelters . Company has yet to have a single worker die ( or be seriously injured ) from exposure to lead . Now lead mining where you are working with dusts that can be dissolved in blood & digested in the gut is a totally different case . FWIW all metal oxides are toxic, alkaline ( so dissolve in our gut ) and abrasive . Very few metals are toxic to the touch but copper is so the mechanical cleaning of copper wire poses a substantially more dangerous situation than soldering with an iron or a pot as I do regularly when making control cables . PS I am over 70 and is perfect health for my age despite working with lead, copper, aluminium & steel nearly all my life . Lead free solders are 100 times more toxic than lead - tin solders Typical lead free solders contain Copper ( highly toxic ) Zinc ( toxic & bio accumulates in kidneys ) Cadmium , ( so toxic it is banned from electroplating ) , Antimony ( can form stibine gas which is fatal in very low concentrations particularly from soldering way too hot ) and Indium ( another toxic metal but rarely fatal ) . They may also contain some silver . So before making illinformed health warning you should look at the composition of your "safer" alternative then check the toxicity of all of the other elements as metals , oxides & nitrates . Next have a good look at the chemistry of the flux which as you noted burns off so you are breathing those fumes . The most toxic part of soldering is cleaning the copper wires and the fumes given off by the fluxes .

Just put flux on the wires , and your good as long as temp is high enough.

“Soldering is a flowing action, not a pasting action. “ That’s what I was told when I learned. Lead free is horrible. After some time, Solder Icicles will start to form and can eat your traces. I wouldn’t use it ever.

🔥 *Excellent soldering guide!* Thanks for talking about why a clean tip is best and how-to, giving the X and V wire connection techniques, apply solder by wicking through the wires, and then verification (QA.) Also your parts list and recommendations are gold. You did all this efficiently and in an easy to understand format, in a fair amount of time 11 min.) _Bravo! Please keep up the great work._ 🎮

I don't trust it. I don't know if I'm doing it wrong but mines would accidently cut into few of the strands while trying to strip the insulation.

NUMBER ONE RULE... nothing solders better than a Hakko and NEVER EVER sand the tip... use ONLY the brass brillo to wipe it off. Number two rule..... USE RESIN SOLDER for electronics....it's cheap and it makes ALL the difference in getting the solder to adhere and flow. You do NOT need to hold the solder iron against the wire while feeding in the solder... BAD practice.... flux the wire then tin the tip and touch it to the wire and it will flow like magic. Holding the tip of the iron on a wire for prolonged periods while feeding solder, may damage electronics that are sensitive to heat.

Definitely could have touched on flux. It will make heat transfer and soldering an almost instant process, but you do have to make sure you clean the wires properly. Good in depth video for beginners!

I take it you're not an electrician. I can guarantee that you would never see those on the belt of any US electrician. First of all you can't get that in any boxes or panels when stripping wires in tight spaces and they take too long. I can strip wires with my big Linesman pliers, and usually do... you just need to keep them sharp and know how to use them.

It's hard to watch this with Will saying Solda and Soldaring. I know it's the way other countries pronounce it, just like aloe-mini-yum for aluminum. Haha. "I'm going out to buy some Sold-da"

Step 1. Get a syringe of no clean flux.

What the hell is sauldeh? I'd also like to point out that a heavier tip with lower temperatures would work wonders for this oddball application.

Everything said in the video was really good for soldering in general as it's all about heat transfer. However specifically when it comes to wires it's really important to consider the environment the wire is within. Mainly this is an issue if the wire as part of its general life is expected to move and flex due to being attached to a moving part. Generally you will see stranded wire and connectors of some kind for wires that are expected to move. This is important because if you make a long solder joint joining 2 moving wires like the joints in this video it will be likely to fail over time simply because solder joints don't do good with motion and flexing.

I prefer to use a lash splice. Strip one wire to about 1/2" and the other to 3". On the 3" stripped wire, separate a few strands from the wire and trim the rest back to 1/2". Lay the 1/2" wires beside each other (without twisting) and wrap them tightly ("lash" them) with a spiral of the 3" strands in a single layer. Cut off any excess from the lash, then solder and cover with heat shrink. Another method is to strip both wires to 1/2" and lash them with a separate piece of small gauge wire. Whatever splicing technique you use, be careful not to apply too much solder to the joint. You want just enough to fill the wires where they overlap, without wicking any solder up the wires inside their insulation. Solder that wicks inside the insulation makes the wires rigid and much more easily broken when they're flexed. A wire that's broken inside its jacket can be a vexing problem to find. For this reason, it's good practice to be sure that soldered splices are well supported on both ends when they're installed so they can't flex if, for example, they're in a machine that moves or vibrates in operation.

Awesome video, thanks for sharing. The helping hands is a must have

Excellent instructions. Thx

👍👍

A bit talky at the beginning. And fantastic tips. All things I have failed at doing.

I think this is cool. I would definitely make servos for each of the fingers not leave the ring and pinky out next time. I'm sure you have all that worked out now.. how did future iterations come out? There has been a lot of innovation in arduino area development in the last 7 years.

Damn, I hate it when my tube shrinks prematurely 😬

"saahder"?

In my opinion better is to leave some fresh solder on a tip before switching off. It prevents it from oxidation while cooling and after preheating. It's worth mentioning that is unhealthy to keep the temperature(if not necessary) above 400*C (752*F) cuz it makes a tip degrades way much faster, and lead evaporates more rapidly above 400-450*C (752-842*F)

That was by far the best tutorial I've seen for this. Thank you!

Wires shouldn't be soldered in most applications because if they get hot the solder will melt rendering the connection useless they should be mechanically crimped or swaged together instead. If you have a high current wire that does get hot and becomes un connected because some idiot soldered it together and it shorts out to ground you will hopefully have a over current protection device that will break the circuit because if you don't you will have a fire hazard. Solder should only be used after a mechanical connection is made first if at all. You are relying on the wires being twisted together as your fall back safety in case the wire is shorted and becomes hot and the solder melts or your hoping the heat shrink tubing holds the connection together. If you do solder wires together put a mechanical support on both sides of the joint if possible to support each wire if it does become disconnected then the wires can't just fall onto the chassis or other components and short out. All wiring should be well supported in a loom anyway look at aircraft or space craft wiring for a good example of best practices.

A lot of wire repair is underneath a truck or trailer surrounded by a lot of things. Putting the ends of the wire in claps isn’t always an option.

I'm so glad that even though I learned this the hard way, I accumulated all this nuances. :D

It’s doable I had to do it in negative 30F. 3 micro toggle switches on a palletizer

Nice video. I am an absolut beginner and learned a lot. Thanks. 😊

no matter what temperature I get the wires at even though the solder comes with flux inside I always struggle to wet the wires with it

Probably the best video for teaching me how to solder ,, thankyou !

Todo está bien, "PERO" no usa un ”Heat shrink" con tanto utensilio que usa. Una crítica constructica.

I never thought about the zip ties with electrical tape, thats genius! Great video and was worth watching all the way to the end just for the zip tie tip!

Noone in the history of ever has gotten lead poisoning from solder. Lead Free solder is primarily for factory based soldering, or if you are soldering 8-10 hours a day. If you are putting together hobby kits and custom circuits 1-2 times a week you are going to be freaking fine, there is more lead in your water then you will come in contact with in solder during short times you are using it.

Lead free solder sux, stay with 60-40 lead tin.

Use the soldering iron for heatshrink

While I 100% agree with all been said in the Video, I think that one need to know how to strip wire w/o this tool (like be a Spartan Hoplites)

Exelent begginer staff. All the basic rules collected and demonstrated well. Thanks

Ahhh brings me back to all my speaker wires as a kid. I think i was about 8 when i figured this out. Never soldered though just used black tape. You could use my wires as jump rope they were so good. Just as thick also. 😆🤷

One of the best explanations!

Great video

Have you ever heard of flux? It could change you life. Also lead free is for plumbing. Soldier with lead is for electrical. Personally a flux paste lightly brushed on. Then solid electrical soldier. But each their own.

What is this thing "snow"?