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You can do that, which is time consuming and needless. Unless wires are very thin (0,5mm^2 or less) use electrical crimps. Copper on copper, alu on alu etc. It is NOT a good practice to solder larger gauge wires for the simple reason that it takes too much time and is electrically unsound because should there occur any short circuits/over currents all that solder will melt. Crimps do not melt. They provide instant, electrically and mechanically sound contact. Your amateur "hold in the blue part of the flame" solution is sxit. Heat shrink tubes come with recommended shrink temps, get a heat gun with temp you can set, and use that. Will crimp perfectly, zero heat damage/burn issues. Overall this entire video is one clueless guy "instructing" other clueless people on how to do stuff he does not know how to do.

Thanks Will

I never learned this it was just obvious to me(it was just easier to hold the 2 wires together that's why I initially did it) I make them so perfect that putting heat shrink on the joints makes them look like it's part of the cable. I also just join the together untwisted and then twist them it's just faster than twisting 3 times you twist once. The joint strength will not be compromised.

Great tutorial.

Add more flux on the wire before soldering, it's a game changer.

great video, thanks!!

these are fine for decently sized wires, but for smaller stuff i prefer the Stripax

Short and useful. Thanks!

good video. i do use electrical tape for 90% of my soldering though, and no issues so far. the quality of the tape, the environment it will be in, and how you apply it, each matter.

Cannot believe you didn't show how to use flux paste. Also remember, solder goes where solder's been.

In ALL of these videos I see people using $200-300 soldering stations with $50 tips, $10 fluxes and lead-free flux-stuffed solders and so on. So naturally everything comes out perfect. I'd like to see a single review using a cheap soldering iron with a cheap tip and cheap everything else, we're talking about a total of $40 for everything, because this is what 99% of amateurs use and only amateurs are going to view these videos anyway. Because in my experience things like a good tip make all the difference but there's no way I'm buying anything that's above $2 per tip if I want to solder perhaps 2-3 times a year.

my very FIRST soldering iron was one I made myself in shop class. I took a rectangular cube of copper, using a saw I cut the rectangle into a triangle on one side and drilled a hole in the other, then had a rod piece of metal put into that and the other end I rammed into a wooden handle. TO use, you put the copper tip into a flame such as a stove top till it got hot, then soldered away, you literally had 20-30 secs of heat, I was doing this in my mums kitchen with my dad, and was running between the stove and the table soldering away.... of course this was not an ideal way to solder, nor would it work on delicate electronic components... but I learned a lot from that !

Don’t clean the tip of soldering iron after use, do it only before using It will ensure that the tip is always protected from oxidation 😊

I was trained to solder in the Navy. I'm glad to see that I was trained correctly ;)

My problem is no matter how long I hold the tip to the wire, pressing the solder to the wire won't melt it. It never gets hot enough even if set to 400F. Is that a problem with the iron or the solder?

For somebody that solders only occasionally there is no need to be concerned about the lead in solder.

If you give these tips, you have just learned how to solder

The first thing you do do is to join the wires using the Western Union splice, then solder the mid section.

Very clear and detailed tutorial. One of the best. Well Done!

“Please everybody give me $3 dollars for explaining how to solder wires together.”

Hardware is important too... I use the Pinecil soldering iron. Its cheap, portable and powerful.

Great job

This was great! I love tutorials which explain what can go wrong! Perfect

While the video correctly points out that the solder joint needs to be properly hot for the solder to flow into the joint, in my oppinion it should mention that getting the joint sufficiently hot requires a sufficiently powerful iron. You can populate small PCBs with a 15W iron, but if you start soldering copper wires of 1.5mm² / AWG16 or thicker, the wires will dissipate the heat faster than the iron can replenish it, so the joint will never get hot enough for proper wicking. This issue is more prominent with lead-free solder than with leaded solder, as lead-free solder requires a higher temperature. Furthermore, use the biggest kind of tip that is suitable for the kind of soldering you are doing. The bigger the tip, the better the heat transfer from the heating element to the solder joint. Use the right tool for the job: A 15W iron with a fine tip is the correct tool to bodge a thin wire to a pin of an SMD chip, but for joining stranded copper wire as shown in the video, have a 30W or higher iron and use a chisel-type tip instead of a conical tip. Use the full area of the side of chisel to heat the joint. The video is on point about maximizing contact area.

Solid tutorial, It helped me greatly. I don't believe I've found a tutorial on this platform (on any topic) that is as clear, concise, and succinct as this one, well done indeed. Thank you

Please use heat guns. Good soldering stations have built in heat guns. Those can also effectively used to cool down parts with airflow. Don't use an open flame. If you are doing everything properly like shown in the video, don't fail on the last 5% of everything. A heat gun can be controlled way better and you can reach spots that are otherwise not reachable with a lighter. With a heat gun you can blow the heat from top down, left, right or any desired angle. If you want to work with arduinos or a raspberry Pi and solder parts together, that's the moment you need a heat gun if you need to remove a chip, resistors, capacitors, etc.

when I first learned to solder, it was from a lab worksheet in school. this explanation is miles better. the presentation with the cold weather makes an incredible difference in illustrating the key point

Why didn't you use 1/r in your actual code?

Great instruction, thanks

If you do have to use tape don’t use junk tape…. Scotch 33+ is the only way to go

Why is the file missing?????

I use an oldschool wire stripper where you need to adjust a screw to cut different sizes regulary at our university. We often talk about buying self adjusting ones but put it of because of the price. But man, the ones you shown are so cheap I just bought myself one (just need to be careful, soon I own more tools in the lab than the university :D)

Expert eh? You might want to at least learn how to pronounce "solder". It's sòd´er. You sound foolish calling it Sullder.

Thanks

Excellent discussion . . . Bravo . . . I might suggest also discussing the conductivity of different solder metals. Silver is superior as it is closest to copper in conductivity. Lead is not bad but its not as conductive as copper or silver. (note that silver solder is usually a combination of tin and silver).

showing "what a good solder joint looks like" with a crusty soldering iron tip that has not been cleaned correctly.

Excellent tutorial!

Thanks for the tips! I have a small project of restoring an old lightmeter that used mercury batteries and I need to solder in a small germanium diode, do you recommend me to put a heat shrink tube too? does it matter if I cover the diode or is it better to just cover the soldering? thanks!

I put the ball of solder on my tip, I heat the wires up, but the flux does not seep into the wires. Then the insulation on both ends of the joint - start melting. How do I avoid such a situation?

Im trying to create the symbol for a transistor BCW60C,215, I found 32 models but no symbols or footprints. You say not to modify the grid, but the datasheet has the pins 1.9mm between CenterPoint of pins. How else do I accommodate this?

Downsides in that it absolutely sucks.

Can you solder strands to a single thick wire?

i would have liked to see some tips on removing excessive oxidation on the iron or using flux paste. soldering tiny wires and use of solder but joint connectors

What a waist of time! Just use some connectors with levers like Wago 221-2411. They are even approved for fine-stranded conductors.

Wirenut....

Try wrapping solder wire around the twisted wires and after that start soldering ;)

What? No heat sinks?

Why am I soldering in the snow? Well, I like it when my solder joints crack.

OK vid, but missed one important emphasis. Decades ago, in a high school electronics class, I was taught that the most important step was to make sure that one had a good and secure mechanical connection. Solder was to MAINTAIN that connection, it was not to MAKE the connection. After all one does not always solder wires together, but other components as well. You may have assumed that the wrap techniques showed that, but I did not catch an emphasis on good mechanical joining. I agree with some other comments about using flux that was not in the solder. I also found, during decades of melting metal to join things, that the part of the iron that holds the tip is often hotter and does a great job of bringing up the wire temperature to where the wire now melts the solder.

Sorry BUT... I WILL NEVER USE ANY "LEAD"-FREE SOLDER, EVER!!!!!!! It's CRAP, It will HATE trying to SOLDER onto a COPPER surface ESPECIALLY if you are working with a PCB... The TEMPS needed will very LIKELY DAMAGE the PCB and MAY (more like WILL) ACTUALLY BREAK OFF THE COPPER PAD thereby ENDING the need for the PCB in the FIRST PLACE!!!