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Thanks Jim! 👍

Thank you! It was my first 4 stroke.

If you don't have a furnace to melt aluminum, small propane setups are cheap and green sand is cheap & simple to make. Practice on simple flat parts first.

Thank you! I have more 6061 than 2024. I can't see wasting my limited materials on this particular engine. My approach is, let's get it to run first! I have some 2618 for pistons but will probably use 6061. It will be interesting to see how the subpar alloys hold up. For the wrist pins in a few past engines I pressed bronze buttons on each end. I agree wire circlips would be ideal.

Thanks. This isn't going to be a very high performance engine. Cross scavenge with piston baffle rather than schnuerle porting.

@@strittmatterironworks You may get away with 6061, but I'd still use 2024 in a sport engine half that size, especially if you're not going to bush the bottom end as 2024 is a better journal bearing against steel than 6061. The comments about big end clearance and oil holes still apply though regardless of the material you choose. The only exception would be if there was an oil hole in the crankpin, then you wouldn't need one in the rod.

It's 11.7cc. Plans are to put it in an rc plane. Spark ignition but might make a glow plug nitro version as well.

As an avid rc plane builder/enthusiast just this comment alone made me hit the subscribe button.

Thanks! With this engine in its current configuration I definitely don't need to worry about a tail heavy plane. Its quite the chunker!

Thank you! Hopefully I can get the next video out in a month rather than a year.

Thank you!

Its for making hollow sections rather than a solid part. Less machining and less chance of shrinkage as aluminum solidifies.

​@@strittmatterironworks thanks May be obvious, but then there is a sand core inside the part? You don't end up with thin edge sections?

The core is removed usually through the core prints. The prints are the areas where the core is supported. As far a thin sections, I determine how thick or thin all areas are during the designing and making of the pattern and core box. Sometimes some modifications need to be made. Its not always perfect the first go around.

​@@strittmatterironworks I am a CAD designer, technical engineer grad. I understand , so there is a space for the sand to exit the enclosed casting? EDIT I see, the casting is hollow through the centre lines. My mistake. Thanks for the video. Trying to learn about DFMA as much as possible Looking to get my own 3d print and cast

¡Gracias! Acabo de traducir tu mensaje

Unfortunately not yet. 😔 I'll be machining the connecting rod and piston soon so there will be a video or two in July.

I'm asking because I think it would be really cool to do a larger 4 stroke engine, but I imagine the cost of materials alone is astronomical, especially in the US, to the point where it "wouldn't be worth it"

The biggest cost, even on small scale is a sand muller. I've seen small furnaces for around 200$ A muller is going to expensive or make your own. Small used mullers are not easy to find either. Once you need a bigger furnace, probably make your own. Those don't come cheap for bigger commercial ones.

I will soon hopefully.

If you dont have one yet, get yourself a spot drill and start your hole with that. Its a short, very stout drill with no flutes and the correct start angle so your drill bit doesn't wander at the start of your hole. Do not spot past or deeper the angled tip! You should not have a problem with drill/ream procedure. Since you are a bit unsure, get some scrap and practice the whole procedure so you can feel confidant that your not going to scrap your lil Aero Engine. Good Luck!

Thank you! I plan on finishing it. Just been working on some other stuff is all.

Great to hear! @@strittmatterironworks

Thank you!

Its just a project to screw around with from time to time.

I use fine white silica sand and about 6 percent bentonite clay. Mix well dry then slowly add water. It can be reused many times.

German. My branch of the the Strittmatters came to the usa around the 1870's.

I list these and some other cast signs on ebay occasionally.

Whats your seller name?

S.Iron_works

I have a few top wing trainers that I saved from going to the dumpster. They need a few repairs and new covering. One of these planes should work good since this engine will be somewhat low power.

Great idea! I'll have to remember that if I make cores that need baking.

It's my regular greensand mix. Seemed to work good and out of 5 castings none of them failed.

This is just the order I chose to do it.

Where its at currently everything that matters was machined after welding. The rod journal could be an issue after I weld the back side. I welded a five piece 4 stroke crank with good luck so maybe that lucky streak will continue. I could also use silver solder.

Thanks!! The goal is to put it in an RC Airplane if i can get enough power out of it.

Thanks Mark! I just noticed you have a few videos up of the drill sharpener. I need to check that out.

The sand has darkened over time from the burned sand against the casting. My mix it approximately 6 to 7 percent bentonite clay. The rest is just fine white silica sand. All measures are by dry weight

@@strittmatterironworks thank You very much for these clarifications !

It was getting late and I wasn't paying attention. The pins bound up on one side and the cope was about eighth inch from setting on the drag.

May be obvious, but then there is a sand core inside the part? You don't end up with thin edge sections?

It's aluminum there is no need to. I does not push the cope up like copper or bronzes will.

Yeah considering it's raw uncoated plaster. I'm going to brush some thinned epoxy on the core box to seal it and to offer some abrasion resistance against the sand.

Thanks! For venting I'll just poke each end of the core with a tig welding rod and see how it goes.