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This works with PVC, CPVC, PEX, Copper L, and Copper M pipes. For 200mm (4”) you may need to cut the pipe or a least drill and insert an impeller style flow sensor.

Absolutely. Easy DIY project. I recommend taking a picture of the wiring inside your existing Pro-C, then wire it back exactly the same way with your new controller. Done!

@@Andy_Humphrey Thanks for the reply Andy!

If you’ve tried everything and can’t get it to connect, and it’s older than about 5ths, it’s likely the battery.

I have not tried this, but from a power perspective, this unit should operate 2 DC-latching solenoids at the same time. I say this because the controller is capable of operating both a Master Valve + Zone Valve, which is the same as operating 2 zone valves. To rule out any wiring issues, I would remove 2 solenoids, wire them together, and then wire them directly in zone 1 at the controller. DC Solenoids have polarity, so be sure to wire red/red to Zone 1, and black/black to the COM. Best of luck and let us know how it works out for you. -Andy

@@Andy_Humphrey - I’ve attempted connection both wires at the solenoids together as well as attaching two wires if the same solenoid together at the controller and still can’t two control valves to come on at the same time together. I don’t want to have to excavate it the valve box and reconstruct the irrigation lines together to accomplish this. There has to be a way? Any additional thoughts would be appreciated. (I’m using an XC Hybrid controller) Thanks.

What is the reason for needing 2 to operate simultaneously?

@@Andy_Humphrey - I currently have 12 sprinkler heads watering my lawn, being operated by 4 separate valves which takes forever. (e.i. three sprinkler heads on each valve station.) I want to operate 6 sprinklers at once operated by only 2 valves at the same time and the other 6 heads operated by 2 valves also at a different time. Having four separate valve stations takes forever to water everything. Water volume and pressure isn’t an issue at 70 psi.

It’s possible the output power from the terminal is different (not enough) to engage 2 latching solenoids, vs an AC powered controller. Is there a specific reason you need a battery controller? Another option would be to switch all (or 2) of the valves to something like the Hunter NODE, and program them concurrently. If you have a spare wire you could add another controller, and program it concurrent with the other controller. With 4 zones you have options 👍

Thanks Bruce. Have fun capping!

Cool, thanks! Happy sprinkling

Example::::::::Start Time 1: 10:00am, End Time 1: 10:30am is a 30min cycle.

Yes! This is a great question. Your programming will move to the cloud. Then you’ll always have a back up, so if something happens to the controller, and you replace it with a new one, you’ll still have the programming as well.

@@Andy_Humphrey thank you. I finally decided to use the Wand with my X2 and I’m just learning how to program it. Your video helped tremendously. Would hate to lose the set up as it is perfect.

Awesome. Have fun with it!

thank you. If i missed anything let me know, happy to help!

Thank you for your kind words. Every valve has a psi friction table available. This is typically found on the product Cut Sheet or Specification Sheet. This link is an example; scroll to the bottom of page 2 to see the friction loss. -Andy www.hunterindustries.com/sites/default/files/CA-Cutsheet-1-Inch-PGV-and-PGV-Jar-Top-US.pdf

@@Andy_Humphrey great, thanks! I guess I should have thought of that myself.

Haha, now you know. Pass it on 🤙

Nailed it! Yes, there is Wi-Fi integrated into the face panel. Thank you for pointing it out; guess I forgot to mention that. Happy sprinkling!

Nice work. Wire connectors are fine. Depending on your model controller, or year (if not this exact model) it could different. Perhaps the transformer was replaced at some point in the past.

Hi Matt. Controllers require an external rain sensor. I recommend using a wireless option to place it in an optimal location. Here is a link, this rain sensor has the 'Direct Response' feature, which will shut down the controller immediately rather than wait for a specific amount of rain to accumulate: sprinklersupplystore.com/products/hunter-wrclik-wireless-rain-sensor

Hi Robert. Yes, you could. However, the kit is not a direct replacement because the service fitting on the 5000 is 3/4”, and the Retro Kit uses a 1/2” fitting. With this in mind, you might consider feeding the drip by removing the sprinkler and connecting directly to the 3/4” service fitting.

Hello. I wish it was a simple answer; however, this is complex and requires additional information about your water source, existing pressure, and how you plan to irrigate the rice crop. If you are interested in technical design assistance, please book a consulting call using the link in the description.

Hahahaha. Good chance it is gone! You can remove the receiver and place a jumper wire between the terminals (a paper clip will work) if you're tired of using the bypass mode. Sounds like a good time to replace it!

This depends on who you ask. My observation is that Hunter MP Rotators have the majority of positive responses from professional irrigation contractors. Hunter's technology was acquired from Walla Walla Sprinkler Co (NelsonIrrigation.com), who invented the technology.

Yes, that is possible. You will likely need to add zones (to 4+) to accommodate the increased flow rate of the rotor heads, so I wouldn’t recommend switching them out, 1 for 1. Partial redesign may be required.

@@Andy_Humphrey ty for your generosity of knowledge

Thank you, Scott! Standing by to assist if you need any support with your system.

Yes, just remember configure (assign) the Pump Start to all programs. Here is a screen capture: www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/43zh11j0eomxgk6snscoq/Hunter-X2-Pump-Start.png?rlkey=pidn0jjv03j7ucacfsqpdal1l&dl=0

There should be an o-ring that is factory installed by Rain Bird. Sometimes they fall out, or are loose in the shipping bag. Assuming you are aware, just double checking. Thanks for sharing.

@@Andy_Humphrey thanks! Yes I do have the oring like you showed in the video. But water still leaks.

@@elexhobby Interesting. Have you tried other sprinkler bodies? Curious if this is related to only 1 sprinkler, or if it is a pattern across all of your 1800 model sprinklers.

Should be fine. Remember to consider that everything will operate at the same time, so give some thought to the precipitation or flow rate of the drip emitters, vs, any turf grass you have remaining in that zone. If that’s not an issue, hydraulically, you should be fine.

It’s ridiculous

You are very kind, Thank you. Good luck with your garden adventure!

Haha

You are correct. If capping rotor, or temporarily turning it off, you might look at switching to a rotor with a built-in shut off, like the Hunter I-20, or K-Rain SuperPro. You’d still need to dig it up to replace, but then you’d have the on/off control.

@@Andy_Humphrey Thank you for the quick response and for these alternative solutions. I see the the K-Rain K2 Pro also has on / off control.

@@JohnBraatz-gx1kc I believe the K2 is an older model (could be wrong). You might also look at the RPS75i (must be the 'i' model). This sprinkler also has a built-in shutoff. ruclips.net/video/6cnlVdGMLdo/видео.htmlsi=sh7A6zPoVkEzqYqQ - www.krain.com/rps75i-rotor-with-intelligent-flow-controltm

Good points, I agree with all of them. It is my understanding that the device was created as way to send monthly “utility” bills to tenants that share the same water meter. It’s not a great tool for realtime leak detection, notifications, etc. I have tested other devices that are better suited for that. If interested, I’d love to chat and learn more about your use case. calendly.com/andyhumphrey/15min?back=1&month=2024-04

@@Andy_Humphrey At our present home, our irrigation system and pool auto-fill-top-off tees off of the same meter that measures water to the house. We have installed a Flume device that does a nice job of informing of usage for the house, irrigation system, and pool and even has the capability to trigger an auto-shutoff valve in the house. The problem is that the pool auto-fill can work very slowly and appears to be a leak to the Flume. Hence, what I'd like to do is use a non-invasive clamp-on (ultrasonic?) detector on the branch that goes to the irrigation system and pool. It needs to be battery-powered (like the Flume), outdoor-installation capable, and communicate via WiFi, LoraWAN or similar and, ideally, have the ability with API (or similar) to integrate with automation or via IFTTT (though even just providing email or SMS notifications would help). My thought is that I may be able to automate (or - at least do manually) the following: * If Flume reports leak, Check flow on irrigation/pool branch * If flow on irrigation/pool branch, turn inside house water valve back on and send notifications -or, possibly better yet: *If flow on irrigation/pool branch, temporarily suppress inside valve turn-off Note - The sensor does NOT have to measure flow rate - it just has to detect flow. I stumbled upon your video when researching SimpleSUB, but now see that it doesn't quite provide the "real-time" flow sensing-with-notification. Have you come across any other sensors that are close to my desires listed above? Tall-order, I know.... At a previous home, we had separate irrigation meter, but we don't want to dig up this yard.... Kind regards, Michael

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Correct. If there IS 24v power coming from the transformer (out of the transformer), and the face panel is Blank, it likely needs to be replaced. If you purchase the panel from us, you can return it for a refund or 110% Store Credit towards your next purchase. You might consider using this as an opportunity to replace the controller. A bit more money, however, you will start a new warranty period and can upgrade to WiFi.

Truth

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Great concept. We need more LoRaWAN in the USA!