Hi Andy, I really enjoyed and learned from this video! I just picked up a Hunter pressure gauge. Hopefully it will help me figure out why my two end-run nozzles are not fully popping up.
My pleasure, so glad you found value. “End-run not popping up” sounds like a pressure problem. You can also try capping off a few of the upstream heads, or changing their nozzles to a very small/low flow rate, to test the theory. Pressure is a pretty big issue that is not recognized by irrigation control manufacturers. If interested, I can send you a wireless unit that you can thread into your backflow preventer, to measure the pressure every 2 minutes and display it in a graph overtime. Just something new that I have been working on.
Just the gauge adapter is less than $2. Add a large, PSI only scale easy read glycerin filled stainless steel gauge for the ultimate pop-up pressure instrumentation. Total $14.
@@Andy_Humphrey Andy, I don't think RUclips will allow me to link, but the adapter is listed on your site as "Hunter - MPADAPTER - MP Pressure Gauge Adapter". As for the gauge, you can use any with a 1/4" NPT. This one from Amazon is a large, stainless, single scale: "MEANLIN MEASURE 0~100Psi Stainless Steel 1/4" NPT 2.5" Single Scale FACE DIAL,Glycerin Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge, WOG Water Oil Gas Lower Mount, with 1/4" x 1/2" NPT and 1/4" x 3/8" NPT Hex Bushing" No point cluttering up the scale with BAR when all we're interested in is PSI...
@@johnfranks You wrote "No point cluttering up the scale with BAR when all we're interested in is PSI...", which is a bit myopic considering the audience is international. Some of us viewers use bar instead of PSI, so a pressure gauge with bar increments is very helpful when documenting and troubleshooting an irrigation system.
@@Mike--K My point was, a single scale dial is easier to quickly read at a glance. If you work in Bar, get a gauge in Bar. No point cluttering up your scale with PSI.
Hello again Andy! So I been testing my psi, and flushing my irritrol 205 valve via the bleeder screw. My psi was down 5 from last season, until I opened and closed the bleeder screw few times. It's now back to where it was, however, I notice with the bleeder screw open, I get a 7psi boost haha. Does this indicate valve is clogged or malfunctioning? It's only 2.5yrs old but I have very hard water here. Looking for way to maintain that boost, obviously can't leave the bleeder open lol
Sounds like the valve may not be opening all the way under normal operation, causing some restriction, and loss of pressure. Make sure everything is clean, and if you have flow control (handle) make sure it’s open.
Does the spray nozzle need to be attached to detect psi or can it be capped? Is there a psi gauge that will have adaptors so I can test psi at popup head, at garden hose faucet , and way to test irrigation rotator psi or are 3 different gauges needed for these? Is there a way to test psi in tubes underground before I screw a rotator into the ground and is there a way to test rotator psi as my rosters have tons of misting?
Yes, it will give you the pressure without the nozzle, however, it will be at a much higher flow rate and therefore not an accurate representation of actual pressure. You can use the MP GAUGE to test the psi any place you would like, it separates from the PVC tee, and because it has 1/4” threads, you can get adapters and use it any place, even at a garden hose.
I'm looking to possibly upgrade/retrofit my existing Hunter PRO Spray nozzles to the MP Rotators. We inherited an already-installed Hunter 5-zone sprinkler system where all the valves are in a single irrigation access box/manifold in the front of my yard. All I know from personal test and inspection report is at the hose bib we have 55 PSI. We do not have a pre-installed pressure regulator anywhere in the irrigation system piping. I have this MP Gauge on order - my question is, for each zone should i measure the PSI at each sprinkler body and get an average or is it enough to measure say, at the first one closest to the valves and the last one farthest one away from the valves? Other question - do you have the part #'s to those Hunter pop-in orange retrofit regulators and the part # to the regulators you can attach to each Hunter valve (is it the Accu Sync)? I am giving myself anxiety of the worst case scenario I have to regulate all the sprinkler bodies and I don't want to dig up 24+ spray bodies in the front yard and replace them with PRS's LOL. Thank you so much!!
I love that you are jumping right into the details! The good news is that 55psi is not terribly high, and you likely tested the static pressure (water not moving). Assuming this is true, your actual dynamic pressure at the sprinkler is going to be more like 40psi (and perhaps less). I don't foresee a reason that you will need to reduce the pressure at all. I would test the pressure at the furthest sprinkler away from the zone valve because this is where the pressure should be the lowest. I would also test the pressure on every zone just in case there is something hidden underground causing pressure loss (like a kinked pipe). You could also purchase a few MP Rotators and try them out to see how they perform. It will not cause any harm to change a couple of nozzles for testing purposes. Good luck and have fun!
@@Andy_Humphrey Thank you for the detailed reply, massively helpful! I also just may do that, and try a few MP Rotators for a test drive. Nicely, our backyard is equipped with Hunter i20 rotors due to the bigger sq. footage and landscaping features. I love those rotors! I also did one of those 5-gallon bucket GPM tests at the hose bib and it was low like 10 GPM. Again if it's one of those "static" scenarios and there's a better way to find the GPM of my system do let me know! Love the channel, keep it up!
Hi Andy, I really enjoyed and learned from this video! I just picked up a Hunter pressure gauge. Hopefully it will help me figure out why my two end-run nozzles are not fully popping up.
My pleasure, so glad you found value.
“End-run not popping up” sounds like a pressure problem.
You can also try capping off a few of the upstream heads, or changing their nozzles to a very small/low flow rate, to test the theory.
Pressure is a pretty big issue that is not recognized by irrigation control manufacturers.
If interested, I can send you a wireless unit that you can thread into your backflow preventer, to measure the pressure every 2 minutes and display it in a graph overtime.
Just something new that I have been working on.
I don’t go anywhere without mine!
Total PRO 🙌🙌
Just the gauge adapter is less than $2. Add a large, PSI only scale easy read glycerin filled stainless steel gauge for the ultimate pop-up pressure instrumentation. Total $14.
Nice. Can you drop a link for us?
@@Andy_Humphrey Andy, I don't think RUclips will allow me to link, but the adapter is listed on your site as "Hunter - MPADAPTER - MP Pressure Gauge Adapter".
As for the gauge, you can use any with a 1/4" NPT. This one from Amazon is a large, stainless, single scale: "MEANLIN MEASURE 0~100Psi Stainless Steel 1/4" NPT 2.5" Single Scale FACE DIAL,Glycerin Filled Fuel Pressure Gauge, WOG Water Oil Gas Lower Mount, with 1/4" x 1/2" NPT and 1/4" x 3/8" NPT Hex Bushing"
No point cluttering up the scale with BAR when all we're interested in is PSI...
@@johnfranks You wrote "No point cluttering up the scale with BAR when all we're interested in is PSI...", which is a bit myopic considering the audience is international. Some of us viewers use bar instead of PSI, so a pressure gauge with bar increments is very helpful when documenting and troubleshooting an irrigation system.
@@Mike--K My point was, a single scale dial is easier to quickly read at a glance. If you work in Bar, get a gauge in Bar. No point cluttering up your scale with PSI.
Hello again Andy! So I been testing my psi, and flushing my irritrol 205 valve via the bleeder screw. My psi was down 5 from last season, until I opened and closed the bleeder screw few times. It's now back to where it was, however, I notice with the bleeder screw open, I get a 7psi boost haha. Does this indicate valve is clogged or malfunctioning? It's only 2.5yrs old but I have very hard water here. Looking for way to maintain that boost, obviously can't leave the bleeder open lol
Sounds like the valve may not be opening all the way under normal operation, causing some restriction, and loss of pressure. Make sure everything is clean, and if you have flow control (handle) make sure it’s open.
Does the spray nozzle need to be attached to detect psi or can it be capped? Is there a psi gauge that will have adaptors so I can test psi at popup head, at garden hose faucet , and way to test irrigation rotator psi or are 3 different gauges needed for these? Is there a way to test psi in tubes underground before I screw a rotator into the ground and is there a way to test rotator psi as my rosters have tons of misting?
Yes, it will give you the pressure without the nozzle, however, it will be at a much higher flow rate and therefore not an accurate representation of actual pressure.
You can use the MP GAUGE to test the psi any place you would like, it separates from the PVC tee, and because it has 1/4” threads, you can get adapters and use it any place, even at a garden hose.
I'm looking to possibly upgrade/retrofit my existing Hunter PRO Spray nozzles to the MP Rotators. We inherited an already-installed Hunter 5-zone sprinkler system where all the valves are in a single irrigation access box/manifold in the front of my yard. All I know from personal test and inspection report is at the hose bib we have 55 PSI. We do not have a pre-installed pressure regulator anywhere in the irrigation system piping. I have this MP Gauge on order - my question is, for each zone should i measure the PSI at each sprinkler body and get an average or is it enough to measure say, at the first one closest to the valves and the last one farthest one away from the valves?
Other question - do you have the part #'s to those Hunter pop-in orange retrofit regulators and the part # to the regulators you can attach to each Hunter valve (is it the Accu Sync)? I am giving myself anxiety of the worst case scenario I have to regulate all the sprinkler bodies and I don't want to dig up 24+ spray bodies in the front yard and replace them with PRS's LOL. Thank you so much!!
I love that you are jumping right into the details! The good news is that 55psi is not terribly high, and you likely tested the static pressure (water not moving). Assuming this is true, your actual dynamic pressure at the sprinkler is going to be more like 40psi (and perhaps less).
I don't foresee a reason that you will need to reduce the pressure at all.
I would test the pressure at the furthest sprinkler away from the zone valve because this is where the pressure should be the lowest. I would also test the pressure on every zone just in case there is something hidden underground causing pressure loss (like a kinked pipe).
You could also purchase a few MP Rotators and try them out to see how they perform. It will not cause any harm to change a couple of nozzles for testing purposes.
Good luck and have fun!
@@Andy_Humphrey Thank you for the detailed reply, massively helpful!
I also just may do that, and try a few MP Rotators for a test drive. Nicely, our backyard is equipped with Hunter i20 rotors due to the bigger sq. footage and landscaping features. I love those rotors!
I also did one of those 5-gallon bucket GPM tests at the hose bib and it was low like 10 GPM. Again if it's one of those "static" scenarios and there's a better way to find the GPM of my system do let me know!
Love the channel, keep it up!