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First thing I do when I get a new deck is open it up and look at belts, capacitors, boards, connections before power up or trying to play a tape.

I had a yamaha we put a new head it in it it worked for a while and the sound issue came back so i gave up it had dolby s to

I was baptised at that church!

Be aware, if you go as much as just touching the flexfoil for the transport buttons on that Sony, it will break.

Sir, which company is the supplier of the drive belts .

Must be kind of spooky at night..

I bought those exact same tweezers. They measure resistance fine but under measure capacitance by around 20%.

Those gains at the front should be at max. They're not volume controls. Their input gains.. So if you want to properly assess the current state of the amplifier, those should be to set to maximum. Otherwise You're basically telling the amp to only amplify a portion of the input signal and make up the rest with noise. Because an amplifier especially these ones will always amplify to their limit based on those dip switches that you set at the back. You don't get to control the amount of amplification. It'll always amplify it's power rating. You would maintain the different levels by adjusting the source into the amplifier. In my case I got a bunch of these c series lab gruppens set in a rack running the sound at a nightclub in Toronto. They are beasts..and our system has one awards ;). ... Except just this past summer three of them blew. Impossible to find a amptec in Toronto that would be able to repair them in a short turnaround cuz we needed them by the next weekend.. So we had to buy 3 replacemnts DAS amps. Those were the only ones with sufficient power for our needs.. So our three lab gruppens are currently sitting in the back office collecting dust. I popped them open just to see If I could spot what had happened.. It looks like some capacitors blew on one of them. The other one has some burnt out transistors.. And the last one has only one channel showing a fault and the remaining three channels seem to be okay. Interesting thing is though all four channels are able to output sound. So even though it's showing me a fault on Channel C, When connected to a source and to some speakers, The sound comes out at the same volume and the same quality as the other three channels.. So not entirely sure what is detecting we're triggering the fault.. They're older amps.. But I was thinking to use the Nomad link functionality at the back via ethernet and install the old software because apparently more information is available in the software when it detects faults or other error codes

The winds must have been devastating to drive the people out of their settlement. Are there any nearby places?

Lots of wind damage there, when was the town abandoned?

Why my deck would not play and it's all my fault! I found that when I remounted the transport (after replacing the belts) 2 switches got bent down near the top center where the cassette would be. I believe that one switch senses metal tape and the other detects the presence of a cassette. Inserting a cassette normally lifts the sensing switch which enables the Play, FF, and REW buttons to operate. I'm still trying to figure out how to permanently bend the switches back into place. I'm posting this to another video where I also left a comment.

Extremely confusing video. As long as you yourself think It's the way to go

Hello, I saw your great video on the revision of the Technics RS B-755 tape deck. Really good work. I have the following question and I hope you can help me: My capstan also rotates without interruption. Which component or which repair is responsible for this? Which part do I need to replace? Kind regards, Markus from Germany

I need to do this to my 480. I mainly work on amplifiers and try to purchase already serviced cassette decks on eBay but I’m not satisfied. My serviced 480 was playing fine one moment then started playing fast. From reading it seems something is wrong with the pinch roller. It needs a new belt or it needs oiled. I’ll look into it. I have 2 of these things so I should be able to get one working. They call them serviced but do the absolute minimum. I’ll need to learn this stuff. I have several BX models so I probably should start learning from those.

hi have a tascam 328 that is a right pain it only plays tapes ok now the servo i had to take out recap did not fix the deck some one's before me got in to the deck the motor runs ace now i put a old school motor in i had to clean a lot of juck out and make some new steal part to fix the motor to 4000 rpm motor with a big pulley and drive belt i reuse the fry wheel i put a belt around it to drive the deck it has a wide speed 2 ips to 7 1/2 ips not far of

I meant to say I have a Yamaha KX-393 which i absolutely love. I find the Yamaha decks in general have a lovely melow tone. Recently I've tried various Denon, Pioneer and Technics decks. All have gone back in the cupboard and the Yamaha has come back out.

@1:18:13 Music?? Always really enjoy watching your cassette deck videos, keep it up!!

I would say the "bacon belt" was a standard rubber band.

Nice video! Regarding frequency sweeps i suggest to do that at -20dbm, because tapes actually are tested like this and also if you check the specifications of some decks manufacturers where they mentions deck tape types frequency responses they show that test they done are in -20dbm. Anyway when i saw that pb head damage... damn thats sad... Cheers mate!

Had a same kind of issue with a Yamaha KX-340. I replaced the head and problem solved. Nothing to see on the low hour head. I don't have the head anymore to look under a microscope.

Very cool deck. This seems to be a sankyo mechanism. Similar to the nakamichi. Great content as always.

Man I hate rubber parts in electronics. Always a problem. I did an experiment with installing direct drive motor into my deck (Sony with a Sankyo transport) made out from 3.5 inch floppy drive. Works great, but needs a capstan balancing to be perfect. And no more belts!

The head scratch looks to be far from the gap, it might be okay, I also see a groove forming in the guide, head is a bit high, check the travel maybe. I noticed your sweep was done at about -7db, high-end roll off is much greater there than at -20db, it's a shortcoming of slow moving tape. These are decent machines, it might worth a bit more aggravation.

Had the 1020U, what a spectacularly bad TOTL deck, had bias problems, left/right gain mismatch problems, transport issues, falling off button caps like yours. It is the worst deck I had and kind of glad that I let it go. Much happier with a Nakamichi 700II.

I invested in one of those small cheap cordless screwdriver's from Walmart, best investment yet! I have to charge it about every 3 months. It will shorten your dismantle/assembly time.

Hi, you've made great informative movies, I really enjoy to watch and listen your materials, thanks for that, keep it up. Cheers

The control motor commonly dies in that mechanism. One of my friends was actually going to get a new motor built, but the minimum order quantity was 1,000 and he couldn't get enough people to pitch in.

I wish you finished that boombox, fixed ffwd and rwnd, curious what was the reason of malfunction, i got one in good shape, not working didnt disassemble it, waiting for a right time, going to have fun.

Introducing the new Weather Wolf drinking game! Simply take a tiny sip anytime you hear me use the word "yeah," and if you're somehow still conscious by the end of the video you win!

I will have to work on a fh150r and it has what i think is a bad head flip gear if you push the head in it plays good if the alignment holds and the speakers and trashed mesh dented foam failing but the work still so thats gonna be fun thanks for your help though this helps me for sure

I absolutely love d and new technology what a great purchase 👍

I bought a Hitachi D555 auto reverse cassette deck in 1979 and it was garbage, could never get it to track right. You could get one direction right and then reverse would be off. I then bought a deck a quarter of the price and had that deck for years.

No such thing as audio grade capacitors, its all marketing and snake oil. Just look at the ratings and leakage current and buy the best quality capacitors. The Muse ones are usually only rated 85c (using old designs and formulas), so they have a shorter life. Using a slightly larger uF capacitor for power supply areas is often okay, but doubling it could lead to damage. Those larger capacitors will look like a dead short at the moment the unit is turned on until they are charged, the larger the capacitor, the longer that dead short is lasting. This can over time cause diodes to fail if they aren't rated for higher currents, or cause transistors or voltage regulators to fail or blow solid state fuses. Also the larger capacitance could cause damage to build up over time when the unit is turned off. It is possible a smaller value was chosen compared to another supply rail to ensure it was de-energised first before some other area of the circuit, now on turning off the unit current/voltage could flow back the wrong through part of the circuit.

Nice looking deck 👍👍👍👍👍

What's your opinion on Hitachi audio gear from 1970s and 80s?

Damn that was expensive shipping... otherwise you got some cool stuff over there :) that net md sony, i was looking into getting one of those, but i think i will wait for your repair video to see if its actually useful thing after all :) looking forward for repair videos. Cheers mate!

Seems like a very interesting deck to work on!

Love the looks of the Lo-D

Oh it's missing a vacuum tube at the back

New recliner?

Also - a tip that watchmakers use to prevent those e-clips and other small parts under tension from flying across the room is the use of a product called Rodico. This is like a putty that you shape into any form needed and used with one hand to place on half the clip while you remove with the tool of your choice. The matreial is "grabby" enough to prevent it from flying away. It "cleans" by absorbing oils, so you might need to relube any area that it contacts.

i learnt , its become a throw away product. these never become "vintage" . i have an onkyo a8850 with a jumping selector, they al have that problem , i disconected the litle engine that moves the selector switch and use only one source over a mixer, they sound amazing, but once they fail its mostly not possible to repair, special transistors or parts. i just bought a new onkyo , tx-nr696 this thing can do so much, its like a computer, the sound is nice, but not as nice as my older a8850. and when something fails, it will be something like a processor that breaks. i have a verry heavy and once expencive marantz, 7200. a beauty !!! but the video output is dead, so u cant go in to the menu and programe the outputs, it works , but only half, the reciever seems to be ok, but the electronics ,,,,, this will happen with our new cars also, great engines, but the electronics kill em.

Great detailed video! My V770 (which I bought brand new a very long time ago) has been unused for 20+ years and stored in the basement. I just replaced the belts because the eject belt was very stretched and sticky, and the capstan belt literally turned into a soft gooey tar. I didn't do any other maintenance but now it still won't play a tape or FF or rewind so I have some troubleshooting to do. Plus now I feel a little guilty for not doing the full lube job like you did so I should probably tear it apart again anyway.

There is no such thing as an 'audio' electrolytic capacitor, its just marketing. How does a capacitor know those electrons are audio or just something else? Yes audio capacitors might have better ratings and tolerances because they cost more, or like blank cassette tape back in the day where the middle of the big spool was used for more expensive branded products because generally that was the tape with less chance of flaws, "audio grade" capacitors are ones that test better then get picked and labelled as audio grade, but really are not significantly different. However regardless of what branding is on them, after 20 to 30 years those capacitors are unlikely to be performing very well, and any modern day type capacitor, audio branded or not, will perform better as being within tolerance with good electrical characteristics then those old ones. So they should be replaced. Also as for capacitors making things sound better, that's snake oil, things may sound different with different components in the audio chain, which some may find more pleasing whilst others don't, mostly its a big dollop of the placebo effect.