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Buy the proper scenics ,glue paint material ect not cheap , plus thd foam will break dwn over time 😂

Tazer Gun,,, Yee Haa, I gotta make a high powered Tazer using this same method !

Looking good,not too busy.

I am into model trains and have HO and G scale DC trains. I too have made my own train controllers using PWM controller. I am from Chennai India.

I just came across this video .... Subscribed!!! 👍

Thanks for sharing this video, really useful, I've got a mainline loco with a knocking sound, have to have a look at it now, J

Hi Anthony, great you done this project by yourself, that is respect. However I would like to share some critics. 1 I heard about construction benefits, but didn't about quality of driving, especially start moment with lowest speed possible 2 You do not tell us what is the excact minimal voltage, if 1-2V, it is not worth it, because some motors like classic HAG could start below, and coreless even from 0.1V. 3 Primitive old school construction does not contain potentiometer, it has Cu wire with brush, muuuuch better solution indeed. 4 Primitive is not the best, because 90% of locomotive need halfwave range to start really great like with DCC on board. Best old school late flagship controllers like Trix, Fleischmann, Titan, Duette, Piko has it. I'm not sure that this feature would take a lot of things... Sure it should be switchable as Duette. 5 Should have additional spring potentiometer (Vishay 100 Ohm or 1k Ohm) for lowering voltage to give more flexibility. Primitive idea was on the Duette. 6 Aha....((( Knob for train controller should be very very very big, like those which had sound amplifier from 90s. Imagine, you control locomotive and it should be as smooth as possible. Those small knobs like your or Gaugemaster suit only for brightness of some lamps "tune and forget". 7 You made the same mistake for direction control as famous British companies when plase it horizontal. It works if you have straight line, but bad with rounds. The best is vertical, because you would always know where you locomotive moves. Could write more, but that is the most important things...

Hi Anthony, Need your help with a Fleischmann Alco FA unit. Ringfield and gears are fine, thanks to your tutelage with this video. It's missing the copper (brass) nub on the rear truck, which I am unsure makes a difference. It has trouble making a complete lap without nudging it, and for no reason the rear truck derails. I wish you had a personal email/Facebook page to message you with. Awaiting your answer. Thanks.

We just laid and ballasted the track and I have been stuck on how to get started with the actual ground cover. I am excited to try this method. I really like the look. Thank you!

Hello! Question? Why did you not use any grease on gears? Comment: You used Q-tips that kept leaving residue on everything; There are wonderful cotton swabs available on ebay that come with a longer wooden shaft and a head that is made for cleaning guns and other different shaped areas, and there are thin, thick, pointed, and other different shaped heads which are much better then the swabs you used. The cotton you used was very noticeable on camera leaving cotton strings numerous times! Your video was exactly right for me! Ted

This is brilliant. thanks

Hi, just wanted to say thanks for the video! I have just found a Mainline Warship ( for a resonable price ) I had the BR blue version when i was younger ( some ahem... 30/40 years back ). Mainline were incredible back in the day. The quality and detail was unreal, and propper handrails too! Anyway thank you I had no idea about the two drive gears cracking over time. Thanks for the heads up. Just subscribed to your channel but felt I would like to thank you with a comment. Thank you!

Looks about as good as any that I’ve seen!

Thanks for sharing, very helpful, J

Kah-toe , good video

I'll try your CRC. But I've watched a lot of these track cleaning videos, and the consensus is that solid cleaners scratch the track and liquid cleaners act as a lubricant which reduced traction, so I've been using a dry lint-free microfiber cloth.

Hallo Anthony. Please send me the cicuit diagram as I want to build one for myself also. Thankyou.

I have same problem. I will try that thank you

[thank, you for youre great video]👍

Just in time for the wave of these hitting the second hand market, as Piko has released the first new version of this in ages. The only surviving example (of the second series) is being restored to running condition.

I love the old Rivarossi locos. I don't know why some people give them a bad rap. The steamers were the best. In my opinion the Vintage are better than the Red Box unit with plastic carters. The red box units certainly run smoothly with central can motor and transmission towers, but too much plastic to my liking. Some people complain that there are no brass bushes on the wheel axle and that the bearings on the chassis are square. In my humble opinion they are square on purpose as this reduces the points of contact with the axle. Less contact= less friction. The old Rivarossi motors are also well built with or without ball bearings. These can be serviced and don't have to be replaced like the more modern can motor. They tend to run slowly as they age mostly because of dirty brushes and commutators. The spring that holds the brushes is also very important. If the tip oxidized than it makes very poor contact and this dramatically impacts the motor function. I still have units that I built from the Rivarossi Hobby kits when I was 12 and still run 60 years later. Unfortunately some of the Diesels or Electric locos had plastic bogie frames that tend to rot if they come in contact with the wrong lubricant. Thanks for your very good videos!!

Hello Sir, I just found your channel . Enjoyed this video very much. Just got into HO trains. TY for sharing . JC

Hi, and better late than never to watch this video. Very informative. Although I know my way around servicing locomotives, Rivarossi steam locomotives are something I have little experience with. This is very helpful as a Rivarossi Berkshire is one of my future repair projects. Please feel free to stop by my channel, Mastic Short Line. Keep up the excellent work. Cheers!

Literally for a year I have been struggling to make sense of how to create depth/height in a layout, and despite observing many many examples in person (wonderful examples as well, definitely not their fault) my brain simply could not make it make sense. I just got so excited after watching this as it all has seemingly snapped into place. Thank you so much for this incredibly detailed yet simple to understand video!!

Great vid, thank you.

(De Paris) Merci pour votre vidéo. C’est très bien. En effet j’ai des locomotives Fleischmann. Bonne continuation pédagogique. Bien cordialement.

Thanks for this. I bought mine new several years ago for a display cabinet, but now decided to run it on a new layout and it doesn't work, it's completely dead. So I'll have to take it apart and do what you did 👍

Would have liked to hear you but on to another site

Turn the music down so I can hear you

Anthony, that is a very compact design housing 3 controllers. You do really nice work. I’m currently building a 2 controller system, based on a modified Peter Thorne design, also full analog. I will have a adjustable momentum and a stepped brake feature on mine.

Hi Anthony. I found the controller video very interesting and comprehensive. I even understood part of it which was a great help to me! (I was in electronics and commissioned communications systems and covert surveillance, as well as emergency networks.) In 2008 I suffered with an aortic issue and, as a result of life saving surgery I suffered mental capacity issues and had to retire as I could no linger understand anything beyond two wire circuits. My model railways also saved me from going completely doo-lally! Thankfully. All the best and thanks again. (My Brother lives on the Saanich Peninsula, Vancouver Island).

Interesting idea. I might have to try this. Thanks.

Ive got the blue pullman and the yard shunter in yellow. I find it relaxing to give these old trains a light service, i do not like total disassembly. Ive also got a lord of the isles and 08 shunter from triang. My oldest loco is a 1955 Trix 0 4 0 which is almost in mint condition

A little blast from the past for me, as I had the red version of the Dock Shunter when I was about 5-6-7 years old, along with a black 'Jinty' 0-6-0 steam loco which had a working smoke generator which you had to drip a special 'smoke oil' into. A kid along the road had the Blue Pullman set, but it wasn't working until I realised the little 'wire spring' pickup was missing from the bottom of the motor bogie. We lashed up a replacement from a paper clip. I wonder if that loco is still going somewhere? Thanks for the video.

A rare one of their Westerns! Nice buy, and nice model.

You got them running beautifully considering their vintage and technology! Lovely atmospheric layout too.

A very pleasing video of some real gems from the past! Moreover, you've kept them in super condition.

running florist foam over a cheese grater is a really bad idea! it causes a very fine dust that is harmful to your respiratory system. It's a carcinogen! ( causes lung cancer! )

There is one pf these for sale locally at a good price but iys missing its bell, which would drive me nuts.

What a lovely loco and layout there Anthony 👍

where are you from ?

I think I'd have used wood for the uprights. A lot easier to drill wood than metal rail. Oh, I see you're not drilling but gluing. I would probably have soldered the metal rails to the wire instead of gluing. Great idea though. Cheers from eastern TN

I see you commented you used a 6000V one, I can only get 6000V ones here where I live, would you say it’s better than the cheap ones you buy on Ali express that don’t even use Ionic generators? And would you say the 6kv one was not usable at all?

Wow thanks. Being I am making a 4 x 8 N scale layout and Michael's store is right up the block from me. This looks great and easy. Have everything except floral foam. I will buy floral foam in 10 min. at Michael's and will be doing this. Thanks again.

Hy Anthony, thought you're extrateritorial.... fine to see you again. I have no progress in my projekts, my job is killing me..... but maybe this year will be much better, last year..... 🙈🙈🙈🙈 no words telling this desaster...... but a nice video regards Rainer

Fantastic video, well-explained and a lovely loco

Excellent video! I used it as a guide last week in servicing the motor on my first Fleischmann locomotive (4016 BR 70). It runs beautifully now but draws a lot of current, so much that it overloads my controller. Is there any common culprit in these motors that causes such huge power draws?

Hi, Great video! I bought the same materials and wired it exactly like you did. I had a question about it though. Does yours give you a minor shock when you turn it on? Mine does. Also, when I tested it for current, I put the negative charge lead close to the screen that I soldered the red wire to and there is an arc of about 1/4 inch. The fact that it shocks me when I turn it on and has such a big arc concerns me if this is actually safe and if I built it correctly. I don't have any static grass to really test it with yet but I'd like your feedback on these two things. I hope to hear from you, Thanks so much

I wish the Atlas RS-3 internals would be made the same way these KATOs are. Not wiring for the lights.

Looking for rewire diesel loco model 4273 Fleischmann ho