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Glad you enjoyed it 😊

So true! The forward weight bias of the Deadbolt is naturally quite aggressive (the skid plate is further forward than most SCX24s), and the way I have it setup the balance is 63% front and 37% rear. In other words, it climbs well, but descending is sketchy. When it starts to tip, nothing is holding that rear down so throttle is all I’ve got! I usually aim for 55/45 for a general purpose truck (my Phoenix), and 60/40 for an aggressive climber (my Ecto). I’m planning to put rear under drive in the Deadbolt which will help drag the rear end a bit on descents.🤞

The 1/18 scale TRX-4M Ford Ranger High-trail comes with clear windows. The 1/10 scale TRX-4 with the same body style comes with painted windows.

Awesome thank you!

Yes they are. Of course, now we have snow so it might be a while before I properly test them on the rocks. Or maybe not 🤔. One never knows around here.

Interesting. Even with a programmable transmitter I could not get the DIG to a predictable state (on my Jeep either). It also gets a lot worse in cold weather. I’m glad the stock micro servo works with DIG for some people. I was just impressed with the quality of DIG on the Vanquish Phoenix VFD-Twin transmission and enjoyed the challenge of getting a full-size low-profile servo fitted to the SCX10 III chassis. I have the DIG kit ready to install on my Base Camp and notice that Axial really changed the shape of the cog teeth for that version of DIG (more teeth with a chamfered profile). The Wraith DIG also had a much better looking DIG design. The SCX10 III is the worst in my opinion, with engagement only every 90° and chunky square teeth. If I was a machinist I would turn a new DIG cog, but alas I am not.

All Hobbywing products are good, but the Fusion Pro is just so easy to install and have a clean setup. Its programmability is great too, though I wish it had Bluetooth. But really, once a truck is dialled I rarely change ESC settings.

Ya, the Bronco was an instant buy for me. The intro was fun to make. Took a bit to get the audio and video synced, but it worked.

Ya, there is not much clearance there. I had to try several servo horns before I found one the right height (the first I tried scraped the frame rail when fitted to the Shift RCs X2 Servo). I’m using a Boom Racing 955014BK (20mm) and I get full lock left and right. You might try alternate horns to find one that doesn’t hit the upper panhard mount.

Thanks! Love that old Bronco body. In reality it’s the turquoise RTR colour, but through the magic of cinema it was orange for Halloween.

Awesome! Thanks for the sub. Here are a few of the Canadian RC channels I follow (well-known and lesser known, mostly scale and crawler oriented): youtube.com/@scalebuildersguild youtube.com/@rcarty419 youtube.com/@gcmracing1 youtube.com/@2011rcqc youtube.com/@cwr2011rc (Scale Town RC) youtube.com/@one10hobbies72 youtube.com/@kpoprc youtube.com/@damedcamera (RC Athletes)

@ frig eh I didn’t realize scale builders guild was Canadian! I will check out all these channels! Thank you

Yes. I believe that is what the video says.

Good to be back! Haven’t been out driving as much as I’d like but have at least been able to work on some trucks. I do need to get the Ecto out soon.

@ I like the Ecto body so much I put it on my VRD

Thought about that. The Firma system has bullet-connectors. Hobbywing uses a plastic three conductor connector which I can’t immediately identify. I’d need to cut the wires or make an adaptor. Also, the Firma motor is sensored while the Mini24 ESC is not sensored. I’m sure I can run the Firma motor without the sensor wire, but I’ve never tried such a setup. If swapping the ESC had been a plug-and-play solution I probably would have gone that route. But since the HW Mini24 and 1621 motor will eventually find use in another truck I decided to keep them as a set.

​@@rcstories_cawhich channels do the two ESC plugs go to?

Glad you liked it! I had not seen any install videos of the Furitek Micro BEC (or any BEC in an SCX24), and since Furitek provide no instruction manual, I thought I would put this quick illustration together.

Have a scary one!

Thanks! You too!

Right on! I have used a half dozen Reefs servos and never had a problem. More recently I’ve been using Shift RCs in my 1/10 trucks. I especially like Shift RCs direct power servos. I’m a little worried that their servos have been out-of-stock for a while. I hope they recover and get some new stock available. I have one of their Nano M servos that I would like to put in my next SCX24 build.

@@rcstories_ca I know how that goes. I've dealt with the same thing before. I just looked on Ebay and saw a couple brand new ones. Not sure if they're what you're looking for, but I hope so.

Ecto is rocking a Hobbywing Fusion Pro 2300KV 2-in-1. I prefer the 2-in-1 for the space saving, though I have installed the separates in a few builds. I try to always have the truck specs in the description. ;)

@@rcstories_ca ok

Absolutely. I pulled the Traxxas BEC out when I installed the Hobbywing Fusion. I often get nervous about running BECs at high voltage because I usually have other electronics installed in my trucks. In the case of the Sport, I have the lights and the winch. I just checked and the Traxxas #2255 400 oz. servo can handle up to 7.4 volts and the Traxxas winch accepts inputs anywhere between 5 and 12.6 volts. I really should increase the Fusion BEC voltage then. My current preference, for demanding steering situations, is to use a direct power servo and bypass the BEC issue altogether.

Thanks for the lovely comment. I took some time off from RUclips. getting back to the RCs and more content will follow (weather permitting).

Yes, that is Lance Henriksen as Bishop in Aliens (1986). Bishop is our shop mechanic. A bit quirky, but a hard worker.

That’s what I’m currently doing and it’s fantastic, even out of the box.

Try your local hobby shop or Traxxas.com (MODEL# 8880)

The esc relays the battery voltage to the light module. So yes. You can even run 12.6

The Blizzard and Trail King seem to have seasonal availability. By mid-winter they will be out of stock and don’t seem to come back until the following late summer. Ditto for parts. I just checked kyoshoamerica.com and Amain and they both had it in stock today. We just got our first snow so mine will be out driving soon! Cheers!

Correct. The Hobbywing Fusion BEC is much better than the Traxxas BEC and can takeover the job of powering your power-hungry servo.

Sorry for the late reply. The aluminum fairlead #42127 by Associated/Factory Team seems to have been discontinued. Other colours may still be available. You might try a local hobby shop to see if they have any left in stock. Unfortunately Element uses a much wider fairlead than most other manufacturers, leaving us with few aftermarket alternatives (Traxxas and Axial fairleads are too narrow). The rear bumper is a Vanquish VS4-10 VPS10122 front tube bumper installed in the rear (the Vanquish bumper slips right in the Element Rear Bumper Mount #42001 which I think is already installed on the truck). I added the rear bumper so I have a rigid chassis part to grab back there (the rear cage/bed is very flexy). I think it looks good and doesn’t interfere with ground clearance (in fact it is less likely to hang up than the tube cage). I love this truck. It’s my favourite out of all my trucks and I keep debating wether to get a second one (Titanium this time).

Because the stock motor is a reverse motor

Sorry for the late response. I just haven’t had time to check my truck until now. I do not have a problem with the turn signals. They work as they should. Are you still using a Traxxas receiver? The motor/ESC should not affect the turn signal function. I prefer to use a TQi receiver with the Maxx Link Cable for communication between the receiver and lighting module. This way I can use a Bluetooth module in my TQi transmitter and get full remote programming of the lighting functions. Regardless, there is no app function to reverse the turn signals. I have never used the Receiver Communication Cable that plugs into channel 1 and 2 of the receiver. If you are using a TQ (or third-party receiver) and the Receiver Communication Cable, check that your wiring is correct. Refer to the PDF manual at m.traxxas.com/sites/default/files/HKC20008-R04_Pro-Scale%20Lighting%20Module%20Installation-WEB-EN.pdf The other thing to check is your distribution block wiring. Pay particular attention to the turn signal jumper plugged into E or F (depends on your model). Again, refer to the manual linked above. I hope this helps. Let us know if you’ve figured it out.

Sorry for the late reply. The Blizzard is still running the stock ESCs and motors. I switched to a Spektrum SR515 receiver and use channel mixing achieve tank steering. It’s not ideal, but I can’t film a drive with the stock stick transmitter.

😊

The bumper LEDs are held in place by little plastic clips. Gently bend the clip back with your fingernail or a small screw driver and pull out the LED bulb. To use them as headlights you will need to devise some mounting method and a way to extend the wires. You really need the wire to run to the back of the truck, near the body hinge, and then forward again to the receiver. If you don’t extend the wire it will interfere with opening the body to install the battery. Or you can just use a MyTrickRC light kit. I do understand wanting to reuse the stock LEDs and have used them as SCX24 rock lights in the past!