63/37- Lester with 3Percent flux is the best solder I’ve found for quads Additionally there is a better tape that has a more rigid surface to hold your arm wires down it’s sold at only a few places you’ll see lines in the surface of it and it’s adhesive is dramatically better than that fabric tape you are using. Great video this was right up my alley
Ya, I use that same fabric tape, and I find that I have to add a dab of superglue to the spot where the end of the tape wraps around. It works, but if you end finding that name of the stuff with better adhesive, I'll give a try too. Thanks.
Great video! Watched every minute. Thank you for taking g the time to make this. Very informative. It’s hilarious how often we get caught up in the build and neglect the basics so much so that we wonder why we fry stuff and waste money… we just need to protect it more.
Made it to end, lol. Nice build! I’d suggest using metal washers between standoffs and carbon to add strength - if the standoffs are damaging the carbon in crashes on your builds. I see them dig in sometimes and compromise the part and spawn cracks.
-E6000 has been my jam for a while now -I print various thickness washers and grommets in TPU to really dial in board spacings in the stack -I use a printed esc grommet to get the esc to carbon spacing spot on (and helps hold the stack screws on builds where there isn't a press nut) -I also 3d print (TPU) the top nut for the stack instead of m3 nuts, a 2.5mm hole threads nice and locking onto the m3 screw My main takeaway from this: -soldering in the tiny nuts on the race2 (I've been using e6000, soldering is WAAAY better) Awesome! I've got whoop and race vtx's with multiple 1000's of racing and race practice pack on them. Running off clean supply is a MUST
Good vid. I do many of the same things. I haven't had luck with titanium screws for the motor screws because the heads strip way too easy. I only use them on the top plate. I haven't thought about taking off the joystick plug...probably because it's so easy to do what you did , knock off a cap and then have to solder back on. That's a pain. I tape my esc and frame the way you did as well. I'll have to try the Kapton tape, I've always used electrical tape but that doesn't hold the best.
I made it to the end. Some interesting tips, especially what to with those nano UFL nuts. I use Welder, especially for repairs on prop guards. You say its like E6000, but Welder really sticks and cant see being able to peel Welder off. So is Welder really the same as E6000? I am just building an Ummagawd AcroBrat 3" HD freestyle quad: Holybro 20mm stack (Kakute F7 + Tekko 45A) with Micro V2 camera and Race V2 VTX, DT1408-3600kv motors on 4S. It's not easy placing the slightly over-sized VTX, it needs to be at the front 20x20 mount, at least it only needs a very short MiPi cable to the camera.
Could you post some pictures on discord on how you mounted the radiorx? Whh did you move the cap to the xt60 instead of letting it stay mounted on the esc?
This drone is different than the one I built in the beginning. For thr conclusion, I just grabbed one of the 6 race drones I built up for mayhem team race. In general it's better to mount the cap right on the esc. This esc has a torn ground pad, so I mounted the cap on the xt60. The radio rx goes under the vtx antenna, but I'm not sure if this is ideal, because it could interfere with vixeo
I made it to the end too thanks for the tips, I have a question I have a 2s whoop I lost it I went to look for it found it in about 20 minutes later but now is not working probably it overheated, is there something I could do is there a fuse or nothing I can’t do, thanks for any information
Some good tips. Thanks. I would use tamiya liquid threadlock rather than solder the antenna bolts, if you solder it you have a really hard time changing the pigtail.
My problem isn’t durability during flight . The Freestyle Vtx is fine on that front. My problem is that the JST connectors keep lifting off the board *during* installation. Once I get past installing the Vtx on my build, its super dependable. jST connectors on the freestyle need to be replaced with solder pads, or they need to be braced down with a metal bracket (similarly to the way the Ufl and mipi cables are)
Still need to stuff a Freestyle into a Frame, Some good tips in here thanks, E6000 FTW! Been beating the tar out of a Mob6 HDZero and E6k was the first thing I did to the UFL and MIPI cable. Really enjoying HDZero, Working on a Nano 90 and WhoopVTX in a 3 inch RacerX frame tomorrow. Can't wait! Cheers!
When using the whoop lite vtx, where exactly should I put the other end of the ground wire on the stand-off? Like pinched in between the carbon and stand-off?
Another incredibly useful video, Ryan, thank you!! How would you suggest reinforcing the camera? I see you use a print. I have a Nano 90 that took a hard hit and now the threads are stripped on one side. What is the best way to keep that from happening, the 90’s aren’t cheap. Any thoughts on how to mount a camera with stripped threads? E6000?
My thingiverse (rquellet) has several protective nano 90 mounts. For stripped threads, I think dried on e6000 might do the trick. Let's some e6000 dry on the threads, then screw the lens in
i onlce added glue (SILICONE ADHESIVE from TBS) on a mipi connector on the vtx and somehow some of it came inside while drying... i couldnt fiddle out all the glue... now im gettting a bad image :/
I made it to the end and saw that e6000 is apparently easy to remove, did not know that. I use the thin ummagrip as well. I was wondering if you'd share the dry weight of this build. I've gone over mine and lightened them but I'm still in the the low 280s
For these toothpicks and such: I really don't like the happy model plastic canopies that many people use, what happens is that the legs of the canopy break and then damage components on the vtx board. Always soft mount the vtx too - I see whoop manufacturers not soft mount the vtx and I get really confused. Pick a camera mount that is tough and has good clearance from camera to vtx PCB for crashes
Love MR30s, love ummagrip, love not just rolling with what the manufacturer provides (or says), love Kapton tape for short prevention, I've never soldered those dumb little nuts, but I've lost them before, I'll have to try that, I've also never used the joystick, I'm not sure if it's worth it to pull the connector though...
Hi Ryan. I made it this far. & I will subscribe. I did select HDZero 4 my build too, & I did complete it. It Is wonderful 2 fly. It is all new, but wauw it is great. Thanks 4 making these HDZero videos. Us beginners need people like U, the PRO peoples. Me, I am a shitpilot, & I love this hobby The warmest of greets from Denmark Ryan
1. Don't use metal bolts for your stack - nylon only - you want your bolts to break not your stack. 2. Xrotor 40 amp ESC is the most bullet proof 3. You want your printed camera mount to extend way beyond your camera not flush - you want it to flair out like a funnel so it is out of view.
I might have to try nylon nuts. I did this once and the nuts came loose and made the stack vibrate Makes a lot of sense though that it'd be better for the nuts to strip out and drop the stack scews downward rather than bend the stack parts. I'll give that hobbywing 40a ESC a try, thanks. The camera mount does flair out like you are referring to
I go with hot glue instead of e6000 just because of the isopropyl alcohol trick. I guess if you intend to never take it apart then e6000 is the way to go.
If only they could deliver the products you purchase from their website. Money leaves my account and utter silence on HD zero's end. I rate their service a 3 out of 10. Customer service non existent.
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Can you add a link for the STL for the rear combo mount for the SMA antenna and the EP1 ExpressLRS receiver? Thanks!
63/37- Lester with 3Percent flux is the best solder I’ve found for quads
Additionally there is a better tape that has a more rigid surface to hold your arm wires down it’s sold at only a few places you’ll see lines in the surface of it and it’s adhesive is dramatically better than that fabric tape you are using.
Great video this was right up my alley
Have a name for that tape?
Ya, I use that same fabric tape, and I find that I have to add a dab of superglue to the spot where the end of the tape wraps around. It works, but if you end finding that name of the stuff with better adhesive, I'll give a try too.
Thanks.
I love the tip to solder the ufl nuts! Why didn't i think of that!?
Took me a while to think of it too
Great video! Watched every minute. Thank you for taking g the time to make this. Very informative. It’s hilarious how often we get caught up in the build and neglect the basics so much so that we wonder why we fry stuff and waste money… we just need to protect it more.
Thanks!
You already know I made it to the end! Lots of notes made for my upcoming build, thanks a bunch Ryan!
Thanks! Good luck on the build
Made it to end, lol. Nice build!
I’d suggest using metal washers between standoffs and carbon to add strength - if the standoffs are damaging the carbon in crashes on your builds. I see them dig in sometimes and compromise the part and spawn cracks.
good idea! On the lightswitch, this isn't a concern, because the standoffs mount on top of press nuts. Good tip for switchback pro though
-E6000 has been my jam for a while now
-I print various thickness washers and grommets in TPU to really dial in board spacings in the stack
-I use a printed esc grommet to get the esc to carbon spacing spot on (and helps hold the stack screws on builds where there isn't a press nut)
-I also 3d print (TPU) the top nut for the stack instead of m3 nuts, a 2.5mm hole threads nice and locking onto the m3 screw
My main takeaway from this:
-soldering in the tiny nuts on the race2 (I've been using e6000, soldering is WAAAY better)
Awesome!
I've got whoop and race vtx's with multiple 1000's of racing and race practice pack on them. Running off clean supply is a MUST
You are very experienced. Glad I taught you a new tip
@@RyanQuellet no one knows everything and you learn to appreciate the new things more as you go, whether at work or in hobby
which specific tpu do you use for grommet? The one I have is too stiff
Good vid. I do many of the same things. I haven't had luck with titanium screws for the motor screws because the heads strip way too easy. I only use them on the top plate. I haven't thought about taking off the joystick plug...probably because it's so easy to do what you did , knock off a cap and then have to solder back on. That's a pain. I tape my esc and frame the way you did as well. I'll have to try the Kapton tape, I've always used electrical tape but that doesn't hold the best.
I made it to the end.
Some interesting tips, especially what to with those nano UFL nuts.
I use Welder, especially for repairs on prop guards. You say its like E6000, but Welder really sticks and cant see being able to peel Welder off. So is Welder really the same as E6000?
I am just building an Ummagawd AcroBrat 3" HD freestyle quad: Holybro 20mm stack (Kakute F7 + Tekko 45A) with Micro V2 camera and Race V2 VTX, DT1408-3600kv motors on 4S. It's not easy placing the slightly over-sized VTX, it needs to be at the front 20x20 mount, at least it only needs a very short MiPi cable to the camera.
Hi, Did you meet some overheating problem with the hdzero whoop vtx
Do you have a link for the EP1 / antenna mount?
Could you post some pictures on discord on how you mounted the radiorx? Whh did you move the cap to the xt60 instead of letting it stay mounted on the esc?
This drone is different than the one I built in the beginning. For thr conclusion, I just grabbed one of the 6 race drones I built up for mayhem team race. In general it's better to mount the cap right on the esc. This esc has a torn ground pad, so I mounted the cap on the xt60. The radio rx goes under the vtx antenna, but I'm not sure if this is ideal, because it could interfere with vixeo
Did you use longer standoffs then what comes with the LS V2 kit? The Gold ones... Thanks
I made it to the end too thanks for the tips, I have a question I have a 2s whoop I lost it I went to look for it found it in about 20 minutes later but now is not working probably it overheated, is there something I could do is there a fuse or nothing I can’t do, thanks for any information
This was a great video. Thank you for all you do for the community 🙏
Great video and excellent pro tips, watched every minute of it. Thanks for your time in putting this and other valuable video's together.
Glad it was helpful!
Are you happy to share your antenna/elrs mount. That looks like a great design :)
Still working on it. I'm not happy enough to release it yet
How about now? ;-) .. @@RyanQuellet
I’m really interested in that coating/sealant.
Great stuff. E6000
Some good tips. Thanks. I would use tamiya liquid threadlock rather than solder the antenna bolts, if you solder it you have a really hard time changing the pigtail.
The screws are not soldered, only the nuts. I see your point though
What's the difference between the frame you're using here compared to the Switchback Zero frame?
Lighter and nano cam only
@Ryan Quellet
what is the name of that yellow connectors on motor wires?
MR-30. Available at flyfive33.com
My problem isn’t durability during flight . The Freestyle Vtx is fine on that front. My problem is that the JST connectors keep lifting off the board *during* installation. Once I get past installing the Vtx on my build, its super dependable. jST connectors on the freestyle need to be replaced with solder pads, or they need to be braced down with a metal bracket (similarly to the way the Ufl and mipi cables are)
I totally agree. That freestyle vtx connector is terrible. At least needs backup solder pads
Thanks for the tips.
Is that antenna mount for the vtx and Rx available somewhere?
I'm still working on the design a bit
@@RyanQuelletlooking forward to you letting us know it's complete and on thingyverse 🙏
Hi @@RyanQuellet , Did you end up finalizing your design?
Still need to stuff a Freestyle into a Frame, Some good tips in here thanks, E6000 FTW! Been beating the tar out of a Mob6 HDZero and E6k was the first thing I did to the UFL and MIPI cable. Really enjoying HDZero, Working on a Nano 90 and WhoopVTX in a 3 inch RacerX frame tomorrow. Can't wait! Cheers!
That will be a real ripper!
When using the whoop lite vtx, where exactly should I put the other end of the ground wire on the stand-off? Like pinched in between the carbon and stand-off?
Yes, and screw it down in the center hole
Another incredibly useful video, Ryan, thank you!! How would you suggest reinforcing the camera? I see you use a print. I have a Nano 90 that took a hard hit and now the threads are stripped on one side. What is the best way to keep that from happening, the 90’s aren’t cheap. Any thoughts on how to mount a camera with stripped threads? E6000?
My thingiverse (rquellet) has several protective nano 90 mounts. For stripped threads, I think dried on e6000 might do the trick. Let's some e6000 dry on the threads, then screw the lens in
@@RyanQuellet Ah!! Cool suggestion, thanks!
Great video thanks for your hard work
Thanks
I made it to the end. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for letting me know!
i onlce added glue (SILICONE ADHESIVE from TBS) on a mipi connector on the vtx and somehow some of it came inside while drying... i couldnt fiddle out all the glue... now im gettting a bad image :/
I made it to the end and saw that e6000 is apparently easy to remove, did not know that. I use the thin ummagrip as well. I was wondering if you'd share the dry weight of this build. I've gone over mine and lightened them but I'm still in the the low 280s
288g with props and strap. Would be 12g lighter without the front brace
So if hd osd doesn't require an osd chip, do any fc come without them? I'd love to find an f4 fc with no osd, a good bec, and bonus points for mpu6000
I'd like that too. For now, manufacturers are too scared to make an hd only fc for racing
You could de-solder the chip until we get FC's without it
@theball1 yeah but I'm thinking we could save a $1.390 per fc if they shipped without the osd chip
If you also had some tips for tiny toothpicks and ultralight builds...
Edit: forgot to say thank you!!
For these toothpicks and such: I really don't like the happy model plastic canopies that many people use, what happens is that the legs of the canopy break and then damage components on the vtx board. Always soft mount the vtx too - I see whoop manufacturers not soft mount the vtx and I get really confused. Pick a camera mount that is tough and has good clearance from camera to vtx PCB for crashes
Those exposed solder joints on the motor connectors trigger my OCD lol
😊😊
I would add clear heat-shrink to insulate the bullet connectors
I made it to the end and now purchased like 4 things I didnt know I needed
Love MR30s, love ummagrip, love not just rolling with what the manufacturer provides (or says), love Kapton tape for short prevention, I've never soldered those dumb little nuts, but I've lost them before, I'll have to try that, I've also never used the joystick, I'm not sure if it's worth it to pull the connector though...
Thanks for watching till the end!
This video was so timely!!! Thanks Ryan
Glad it helped!
I made it to the end.
Thanks! 🙂
A little heat shrink on your motor connections wouldn't hurt.. why leave these exposed when you're protecting everything else from shorting
Hi Ryan. I made it this far. & I will subscribe. I did select HDZero 4 my build too, & I did complete it. It Is wonderful 2 fly. It is all new, but wauw it is great. Thanks 4 making these HDZero videos. Us beginners need people like U, the PRO peoples. Me, I am a shitpilot, & I love this hobby
The warmest of greets from Denmark Ryan
This was super helpful!
Glad it helped!
Yes press nuts makes it clean..
Great tips!
1. Don't use metal bolts for your stack - nylon only - you want your bolts to break not your stack. 2. Xrotor 40 amp ESC is the most bullet proof 3. You want your printed camera mount to extend way beyond your camera not flush - you want it to flair out like a funnel so it is out of view.
I might have to try nylon nuts. I did this once and the nuts came loose and made the stack vibrate Makes a lot of sense though that it'd be better for the nuts to strip out and drop the stack scews downward rather than bend the stack parts. I'll give that hobbywing 40a ESC a try, thanks. The camera mount does flair out like you are referring to
Thx for sharing!!!
Of course!
I go with hot glue instead of e6000 just because of the isopropyl alcohol trick. I guess if you intend to never take it apart then e6000 is the way to go.
Hot glue melts at vtx Temps. That's why I prefer e6000
i like it's little hat
If only they could deliver the products you purchase from their website. Money leaves my account and utter silence on HD zero's end. I rate their service a 3 out of 10. Customer service non existent.
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