Czech sandstone climbing

Поделиться
HTML-код
  • Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024

Комментарии • 4

  • @jakubklos
    @jakubklos 2 года назад

    Kudos to you Denis! Enjoyed the vlog a lot.
    One minor note about the rings vs trad climbing. Rings are placed in areas where you usually cannot use any knot or sling. It is the ultimate protection carefully chosen by the route makers usually around cruxes. In the old days it took even several months sometimes to finish a route and it is always done from the bottom. Never from the top. There are nice documentaries how such routes are done :)

    • @cragitoergosum8703
      @cragitoergosum8703  2 года назад

      Cheers Kuba. Makes me wonder how Brits would deal with this, and how these routes would translate in E-grades without rings. Fascinating.

    • @ip2862
      @ip2862 2 года назад

      @@cragitoergosum8703 On the basis, admittedly, of a few brief visits some years ago - and mostly to Saxony, with just one foray into Bohemia - I'd guess that the UK grading system would work pretty well; it appreciates, and caters for, the occasionally significant difference between the simple physical difficulty of the climbing on a route, and its overall challenge - a feature which these sandstone climbs and UK Trad very much share. Whether or not a particular route might contain rings is usually irrelevant; in most cases we're not talking about sport climbing here! And it's probably erroneous to assume that rings wouldn't have been placed on such climbs in the UK - if there actually were any! Local climbing 'ethics' tend to develop in a way that suits the local climbing area. Much of the early climbing in the UK took place on the volcanic rock of traditional mountain areas such as North Wales, Cumbria ['Lake District'] and the Scottish Highlands; it originated, after all, partly as training for climbing in 'the greater ranges'. These rocks were happily amply featured to provide an abundance of natural protection possibilities - spikes, tunnels, chockstones etc - such that quite respectable levels of difficulty could be reached without recourse to the hammer or the drill. But had the UK been host to clusters of 100 metre sandstone towers that were being climbed by bold pioneers a century ago - I suspect that those innovators too might well have tipped the considerable odds slightly in their favour by means of some sort of bolt. It's not, after all, any sort of new technology; humans have been drilling anchors into rock for centuries or longer. Just look at any stone gatepost, or the doorway of a medieval stone farm building, and wonder how the hinges got there!

  • @jessicastephens8137
    @jessicastephens8137 2 года назад

    քʀօʍօֆʍ