Square to rounds r easy and u need a brake for that u idiot lol if u do it without a brake it's gonna look like shit all u do is drawl a top view of the fitting, break the circle into 7 equal parts with a compass marking them 1-7. Then u mark your 4 corners A-D, then whatever the height of the fitting is you drawl a line straight up and down that whatever that length is, then drawl an arbitrary line at the bottom of ur height line perpendicular, then mark your true lengths for A-4, B-7, C7, and B1, with a compass on your arbitrary line, then whatever the large length of the square is you drawl a line that length horizontally marking A on one side, B on the other, then strike your arks from those points with the compass and where they intersect is where you connect ur A and B points to #4, and then u take ur compass from A4/B4 and mark ur points beside it marking and intersecting them all the way from 4 to 1 and 4 to 7 which are the distances on each equal point of the round that u broke up into 7 points. Then u just mark from there and keep intersecting the points from A4 to A1, and B4 to B1, then point B and C which are the short sides of the square intersect those with point 7 (C7 and B1) then make a seam and slip edge, and u have your pattern. Then u just trace that, bend it up on ur triangulation points and then clamp the two patterns together and rivet the seam, done. Lmaooooooooo let's see if u can follow along smartass
The notches are important for a lot of reasons. In this fitting I bent them to match the receiving angles the fitting was being connected to, in a duct run the longer side overlaps the next fitting by that inch, and the short sides get bent into a "C" shape for another connector called a cleat or drive, also makes the tabs easier to remove if you decide you don't need them in that spot once its put together. Basically, if the corners are not cut the connecting tabs will be the same angle as the sides, and that's almost always not what you want.
great video!
unlike 99% of the sheetmetal videos on RUclips this can actually be done in the field
I like the way you work and really appreciate you sharing this process. Well done!
Very nice, one of the better field fab transition on RUclips.. nice job!
The cross breaking with the screwdriver was a nice tip.
Brilliant 👏🏽
Beautiful work
👍👍👍
Let's see you make that square round.
Square to rounds r easy and u need a brake for that u idiot lol if u do it without a brake it's gonna look like shit all u do is drawl a top view of the fitting, break the circle into 7 equal parts with a compass marking them 1-7. Then u mark your 4 corners A-D, then whatever the height of the fitting is you drawl a line straight up and down that whatever that length is, then drawl an arbitrary line at the bottom of ur height line perpendicular, then mark your true lengths for A-4, B-7, C7, and B1, with a compass on your arbitrary line, then whatever the large length of the square is you drawl a line that length horizontally marking A on one side, B on the other, then strike your arks from those points with the compass and where they intersect is where you connect ur A and B points to #4, and then u take ur compass from A4/B4 and mark ur points beside it marking and intersecting them all the way from 4 to 1 and 4 to 7 which are the distances on each equal point of the round that u broke up into 7 points. Then u just mark from there and keep intersecting the points from A4 to A1, and B4 to B1, then point B and C which are the short sides of the square intersect those with point 7 (C7 and B1) then make a seam and slip edge, and u have your pattern. Then u just trace that, bend it up on ur triangulation points and then clamp the two patterns together and rivet the seam, done. Lmaooooooooo let's see if u can follow along smartass
Nice!I’m not a metal guy by any means.
What are the notches for on the bend lines for?
The notches are important for a lot of reasons. In this fitting I bent them to match the receiving angles the fitting was being connected to, in a duct run the longer side overlaps the next fitting by that inch, and the short sides get bent into a "C" shape for another connector called a cleat or drive, also makes the tabs easier to remove if you decide you don't need them in that spot once its put together. Basically, if the corners are not cut the connecting tabs will be the same angle as the sides, and that's almost always not what you want.
@@mechanicalenvironments thanks for the detailed explanation!
What gauge metal was that?
26ga
Spanish please
aprenda ingles huevon