Hi, this really looks like fun! I've stopped working on my cars unless I absolutely have to- too old for this crap. I have a fuel leak that just started 2 days ago. Funny, because I didn't turn off the ignition completely Sunday morning and Tuesday when my wife needed the car to go to work the battery was dead. Charged it. All OK. And then at the end of the day I there was that nasty diesel fuel smell in the garage, but no leak that I could see. Then I saw a wet bolt through a slight hole just in front of the fuel filter. Stuck a long wood dowel in there so I could smell it but it has no smell and it's clear- so I thought oil but then realized it's clean so maybe coolant or brake fluid? Anyway, I made an appointment for next Tuesday. No way that I'm getting involved with what you did! They say half day job so I'll be crying at the end of the day.
Precise and informative explanatory videos. Just one question if you can help.. Do you happen to have the list of the various torque settings you used on reassembly?
Hi Guy, I dont have torque settings unfortunately but would highly recommend the haynes manual for this model if you need torque settings. A lot of mechanics just tighted by feel based on experience and based on the size of bolt and application.
Thanks a lot for this video (part 1 and 2). Ih the engine at the end of the job doesn't start, what do you suggest to do ? How I have to bleed? Thanks. up..
I've a Mazda 2 TS2 and your videos have helped a lot so far - just got the injectors free today. I'm starting to worry about putting everything back and noticed a difference between the Ford and my Mazda - there is no fuel primer fitted. How do I go about purging air from the fuel system once I get to that stage. By the way, on my Mazda the clearance above the air filter box to the engine bay metal work is very limited, so getting the air filter box out was the hardest part of the job so far.
thanks for this video i need to do mine and i was wondering how hard the job would but after watching this im going to do it this weekend again many thanks
I replaced the fuel filter, fuel line and fuel injector lines... Put it all back together and now there's still a leak. The fuel line was broken so that had to be replaced, so I done the rest just to make sure. Any advice on what could be the problem?
Hi - Many thanks for these two videos. I have a Citroen C1 1.4 HDI and can not find any information regarding this engine, no workshop or Haynes manuals. Are you aware if this is the same procedure for my C1 engine, if so can you maybe direct me to some instruction manual or website I can refer to as I work. Many thanks
For anyone struggling with the 4 o rings on the intake manifold. Use ruber grease. Spent aged pulling my hair out trying to get the bolts to line up. Slapped a bunch of rubber grease on the seals. Went in easy. Hope this helps
Brilliant video, very well done! My brother done his yesterday...now won't start 🤔 I personally think he didn't seal the valves properly as when the pump is squeezed there's a huge amount of air getting blown out or sucked into the back of the rocker cover 😒
Good video,Had my 1.4 tdci Many years and have never encountered any problems starting after fuel filter replacement.After new filter is fitted.I use a large syringe & piece of pipe connect to filter outlet to charge via suction to fill filter full of fuel.this reduces area for air to collect.then reconnect fuel line to filter & pump priming bulb a dozen times or so.Starts on the key everytime.
Thanks for the tips. how important is it to replace the upper seals/collars on the injector body? I've bought replacement ones but they aren't a tight fit around the injector, where as the old ones were very tight. thanks.
The ones I had were a reasonably tight fit - I think they are really just a kind of bushing to try and stop vibration through the injector by giving the injector a bit of cushioning. The seal to the coppper washer at the bottom is the main concern.
Great videos the worlds a much better place with this kind of content! Just re-installing everything. Proving very difficult to get the intake manifold seated correctly onto the seals. Did you put the seals into the ports first or onto the rocker cover assembly. I have made several attempts and don't seem to be getting correct seating yet. Please advise which method you used many thanks!
MM Engineering I had the same trouble myself it took maybe 4 or 5 goes to get the thing to seat right. I cant remember which way worked. Try both ways if one way isnt working.
I have no idea as I made this video a few years ago now, I believe the torque values are usually around 7NM for most vehicles followed by a final angular rotation. If you check some other forums you might find the answer you need.
Struggling to get the two bolts in at the back of the intake. Like I can’t get the o rings far enough down used leverage on the cover seems to go down but just stop loosing my will to live with it
It's a long time since I did this but I remember it being a ball ache too. If I remember correctly you can either sit the o rings into the recess or else have them slid in place into the manifold. One way is better than the other if I'm not mistaken. It definitely took me a few goes as well to get this lined up. Another comment I had on this video said they used rubber grease to help to get them in place as they struggled with it too. If it's a car that's getting towards the end of its life any old grease will do.
Great video mate just a quick question when you mention to clear the injector holes with starting the car.I am obviously assuming this is with the injectors out and the fuel filter & pipes disconnected
Orbital Tube thanks for replying,I meant on the engine block where the injectors sit in is it ok to crank the engine with all the components removed in order to clear the carbon build up in the engine
Its actually quite a low torque setting. I don't have the haynes manual anymore to check exactly but for most cars it seems to be generally in the region of 5-7nm followed by a 90degree rotation.
My understanding is that injector coding is a fine tuning process that can be done but isn't totally necessary for these types of engines. So if you replace one you should still be able to start and run the car no problem.
+nick prince Hi Nick, after doing some research it looks like we need to use genuine washers bought straight from ford (cost around £12). I previously bought the washers from eBay. However, I still haven’t got round to installing them.
hi replaced all seals even new fuel leak off pipes yet go to start car and it's still leaking a lot of diesel by injectors any ideas? I cleaned all ports out thoroughly no crud whatsoever so I'm stumped what the issue could be
Very sorry to hear that its very frustrating. I'm not a qualified mechanic so might be best to get a professional opinion as well . If you are confident in the rest of the repair is it possible the metal fuel pipes from the pump have been damaged or split and causing a leak? The obvious things would be the holes that the clamp down bolts go into, were they clean enough be able to torque them down properly to give the correct clamping pressure on the injector?
+Classic Productions thanks for the reply yes indeed all holes were plugged and remained debri free I found a fiesta 1.4 tdci manual online that the injector retaining forks I think that's what you are referring to are torqued to 30 nm and that's what I tightened them to , I haven't checked the metal fuel rail for damage but suspecting now that could be the fault will strip it all down again and go from there thanks
+Logan gaming right from what I remember when I tried to reinstall the injector it kept popping back out of the inlet hole it sits in so I held it down by and then fitted retaining fork and tightened is it possible the injector is still not sitting correctly and that's why the leak is occurring ? also looking back I left the plastic sleeve on the injector on 3 of them should I have just put all 4 in the inlet holes first ? Then tap the injector down with a rubber mallet ? also quick not to anyone who does this job do not use aftermarket leak off pipes they do not sit it the injector at All well I had to pay the extra and go to fords and buy the original as I noticed the cheap leak off pipes had slightly smaller connectors that click into the injector
if its stuck try an injector puller and some light sideways taps to try and break the carbon up. Also use some carb cleaner or whatever tin of cleaner/lube you have. I have also heard of people using torches to heat them up but I don't like the idea of doing that because of the fire risk.
Great video mate, very informative. A question, do you need to program in new injectors? I have a MaxiSys unit which happily recodes injectors on other cars but there doesn't seem to be an option for it on this car
My understanding is that programming for these engines is only for fine tuning according to other videos I have watched where new injectors worked without programming on vans with the same engine.
Just seeing your message now did you get the car started again. I would suggest refilling the fuel filter housing manually with fuel and then try towing the car with another car to get it started.
These cars can start at first try no problem if you use the manual pump to fill the lines with fuel. It is located next to cilinder one and you just press it a couple of times. It is a one way valve. And why do you empty the filter before you take it down? Makes no sense. Other than that, great video
Hi, this really looks like fun! I've stopped working on my cars unless I absolutely have to- too old for this crap. I have a fuel leak that just started 2 days ago. Funny, because I didn't turn off the ignition completely Sunday morning and Tuesday when my wife needed the car to go to work the battery was dead. Charged it. All OK. And then at the end of the day I there was that nasty diesel fuel smell in the garage, but no leak that I could see. Then I saw a wet bolt through a slight hole just in front of the fuel filter. Stuck a long wood dowel in there so I could smell it but it has no smell and it's clear- so I thought oil but then realized it's clean so maybe coolant or brake fluid? Anyway, I made an appointment for next Tuesday. No way that I'm getting involved with what you did! They say half day job so I'll be crying at the end of the day.
Best video watched for help with a job on car for a while thanks great help 👍
Precise and informative explanatory videos. Just one question if you can help.. Do you happen to have the list of the various torque settings you used on reassembly?
Hi Guy, I dont have torque settings unfortunately but would highly recommend the haynes manual for this model if you need torque settings. A lot of mechanics just tighted by feel based on experience and based on the size of bolt and application.
I've done this in the last few day but keep getting an airlock I pump the buld and it's fixed but left for a bit and it's locked again. What do I do
Thanks a lot for this video (part 1 and 2). Ih the engine at the end of the job doesn't start, what do you suggest to do ? How I have to bleed? Thanks. up..
Many thanks for the tips, that's my weekend sorted then
I've a Mazda 2 TS2 and your videos have helped a lot so far - just got the injectors free today. I'm starting to worry about putting everything back and noticed a difference between the Ford and my Mazda - there is no fuel primer fitted. How do I go about purging air from the fuel system once I get to that stage. By the way, on my Mazda the clearance above the air filter box to the engine bay metal work is very limited, so getting the air filter box out was the hardest part of the job so far.
thanks for this video i need to do mine and i was wondering how hard the job would but after watching this im going to do it this weekend again many thanks
good luck with the repair
Hi how was the job? Were you able to do that without any problems? I think I will try to change or just get them cleaned soon by myself.
yeah thanks to your video the job went well no more leaks
Great video...Did you have to program in the new injectors to the ECU ?
I replaced the fuel filter, fuel line and fuel injector lines... Put it all back together and now there's still a leak.
The fuel line was broken so that had to be replaced, so I done the rest just to make sure.
Any advice on what could be the problem?
A great video and description of the task. Thankyou.
Hi - Many thanks for these two videos. I have a Citroen C1 1.4 HDI and can not find any information regarding this engine, no workshop or Haynes manuals. Are you aware if this is the same procedure for my C1 engine, if so can you maybe direct me to some instruction manual or website I can refer to as I work. Many thanks
For anyone struggling with the 4 o rings on the intake manifold. Use ruber grease. Spent aged pulling my hair out trying to get the bolts to line up. Slapped a bunch of rubber grease on the seals. Went in easy. Hope this helps
Good tip thanks for your comment.
Brilliant video, very well done! My brother done his yesterday...now won't start 🤔 I personally think he didn't seal the valves properly as when the pump is squeezed there's a huge amount of air getting blown out or sucked into the back of the rocker cover 😒
You mean with installing the injector seal's right?
Good video,Had my 1.4 tdci Many years and have never encountered any problems starting after fuel filter replacement.After new filter is fitted.I use a large syringe & piece of pipe connect to filter outlet to charge via suction to fill filter full of fuel.this reduces area for air to collect.then reconnect fuel line to filter & pump priming bulb a dozen times or so.Starts on the key everytime.
hi great video very informative.....for this sort of job at a small type garage what sort of price are we looking at ....cheers
Thanks for the tips. how important is it to replace the upper seals/collars on the injector body? I've bought replacement ones but they aren't a tight fit around the injector, where as the old ones were very tight. thanks.
The ones I had were a reasonably tight fit - I think they are really just a kind of bushing to try and stop vibration through the injector by giving the injector a bit of cushioning. The seal to the coppper washer at the bottom is the main concern.
Great videos the worlds a much better place with this kind of content! Just re-installing everything. Proving very difficult to get the intake manifold seated correctly onto the seals. Did you put the seals into the ports first or onto the rocker cover assembly. I have made several attempts and don't seem to be getting correct seating yet. Please advise which method you used many thanks!
MM Engineering I had the same trouble myself it took maybe 4 or 5 goes to get the thing to seat right. I cant remember which way worked. Try both ways if one way isnt working.
Just doing this job on my peugot, thanks for the info.
Do you have the same engine the DV4TD...Do you need to program in the new injectors to the ECU.?
@@hipstarchild No, just replaced 1 and been driving like that for 2 years, no issues
Great video😊 nice information, I am going to do on my fiesta
No problem. Good luck with the job.
Hola tengo un ford fiesta 1.400 tdci quiero saber donde lleva los calentadores gracias
Hiya do you know what the torque settings are for the injector bolts please
I have no idea as I made this video a few years ago now, I believe the torque values are usually around 7NM for most vehicles followed by a final angular rotation. If you check some other forums you might find the answer you need.
Excellent video well controlled verbal instructions.well done.
No problem
Struggling to get the two bolts in at the back of the intake. Like I can’t get the o rings far enough down used leverage on the cover seems to go down but just stop loosing my will to live with it
It's a long time since I did this but I remember it being a ball ache too. If I remember correctly you can either sit the o rings into the recess or else have them slid in place into the manifold. One way is better than the other if I'm not mistaken. It definitely took me a few goes as well to get this lined up. Another comment I had on this video said they used rubber grease to help to get them in place as they struggled with it too. If it's a car that's getting towards the end of its life any old grease will do.
Great video mate just a quick question when you mention to clear the injector holes with starting the car.I am obviously assuming this is with the injectors out and the fuel filter & pipes disconnected
yep you have to take the injector to specialist injector shop to get them tested for flow and spray pattern.
Orbital Tube thanks for replying,I meant on the engine block where the injectors sit in is it ok to crank the engine with all the components removed in order to clear the carbon build up in the engine
M Gully yes you are correct just crank the engine to blow any crap out of the cylinders before reinstalling the injectors.
Orbital Tube thanks for the quick reply it's much appreciated
Hi, what is the torque setting for the injectors?
Its actually quite a low torque setting. I don't have the haynes manual anymore to check exactly but for most cars it seems to be generally in the region of 5-7nm followed by a 90degree rotation.
Great video, very informative. If you install different injectors (same type but from another car) do they have to be coded?
My understanding is that injector coding is a fine tuning process that can be done but isn't totally necessary for these types of engines. So if you replace one you should still be able to start and run the car no problem.
@@orbitaaltube thanks for your reply.
Hi, I had my injector seals replaced, but now I have a lot of black smoke coming out from the exhaust. Do you have any idea what's gone wrong?
Burhan Ali
I also have the same lots of black smoke and down on power, it didn’t smoke at all before I replaced the copper seals, and ideas ?
Thanks
+nick prince Hi Nick, after doing some research it looks like we need to use genuine washers bought straight from ford (cost around £12). I previously bought the washers from eBay. However, I still haven’t got round to installing them.
Burhan Ali thanks I’ve just read the same, I have spoken to a specialist who says they need to be 2.5mm thick, I also got mine from Ebay
Turns out the seals are 2.5mm thick so drawn a blank now !
+nick prince try fitting original ford washers, it might solve it.
hi replaced all seals even new fuel leak off pipes yet go to start car and it's still leaking a lot of diesel by injectors any ideas? I cleaned all ports out thoroughly no crud whatsoever so I'm stumped what the issue could be
Very sorry to hear that its very frustrating. I'm not a qualified mechanic so might be best to get a professional opinion as well . If you are confident in the rest of the repair is it possible the metal fuel pipes from the pump have been damaged or split and causing a leak? The obvious things would be the holes that the clamp down bolts go into, were they clean enough be able to torque them down properly to give the correct clamping pressure on the injector?
+Classic Productions thanks for the reply yes indeed all holes were plugged and remained debri free I found a fiesta 1.4 tdci manual online that the injector retaining forks I think that's what you are referring to are torqued to 30 nm and that's what I tightened them to , I haven't checked the metal fuel rail for damage but suspecting now that could be the fault will strip it all down again and go from there thanks
+Logan gaming right from what I remember when I tried to reinstall the injector it kept popping back out of the inlet hole it sits in so I held it down by and then fitted retaining fork and tightened is it possible the injector is still not sitting correctly and that's why the leak is occurring ? also looking back I left the plastic sleeve on the injector on 3 of them should I have just put all 4 in the inlet holes first ? Then tap the injector down with a rubber mallet ? also quick not to anyone who does this job do not use aftermarket leak off pipes they do not sit it the injector at All well I had to pay the extra and go to fords and buy the original as I noticed the cheap leak off pipes had slightly smaller connectors that click into the injector
any tips for removing a injector if It is glued to the head?
if its stuck try an injector puller and some light sideways taps to try and break the carbon up. Also use some carb cleaner or whatever tin of cleaner/lube you have. I have also heard of people using torches to heat them up but I don't like the idea of doing that because of the fire risk.
Great video mate, very informative. A question, do you need to program in new injectors? I have a MaxiSys unit which happily recodes injectors on other cars but there doesn't seem to be an option for it on this car
My understanding is that programming for these engines is only for fine tuning according to other videos I have watched where new injectors worked without programming on vans with the same engine.
Hi thanks for your video it's very useful for me I need your help after changing injector car is not starting give me your solution about air lock...
Just seeing your message now did you get the car started again. I would suggest refilling the fuel filter housing manually with fuel and then try towing the car with another car to get it started.
Thanks for the video this was really helpful.
Good job 👍🏽 merci beaucoup 👏
Now I know why this repair costed me so much
How much did it cost?
These cars can start at first try no problem if you use the manual pump to fill the lines with fuel. It is located next to cilinder one and you just press it a couple of times. It is a one way valve. And why do you empty the filter before you take it down? Makes no sense. Other than that, great video
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Traduci in italiano
Sorry I don't speak Italian. If you can translate this it would be great.
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These crap French engines really bring down the quality of the cars unfortunate enough to house them.
Yep they sure do. Not built to last.