Almost done with engine swap detroit diesel 671
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2020
- Just finishing up the engine and transmission swap of the detroit diesel 6-71 into the vintage gm bus 4104. Ran into a few issues that required a few parts to be swapped and will the cooling system to be flushed a few times before cleaning and welding the radiator.
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amazing how the borescope has helped mechanics for over a decade!......wished I had them back in the day!
You’re doing a lovely job on this bus - they should be so pleased with it!
Steel bolts thru aluminum. Use hylomar as a sealant and anti corrosion compound. Hylomar is available as permatex 85420 flange sealant. I have split vw cases 15 years assembled and it was still tacky. So it never hardens . Wont flush out with coolant or fuels.
That is some great stuff. I’ve used it myself.
I use it on our racing cars, airplanes, and Renegade Trucks. Cool Stuff.
That or Tefgel
Your wife has a good eye, I can tell she`s been around you a long time. What a great "Help mate".
I think flushing it is a great idea Scott, your assistant did one heck of a job making that gasket.
I always enjoy watching the master at work
Kelly is a great gasket maker I’m impressed
Permatex makes a product called 18E which in a 1/2 ton truck you drain and flush out all traces of coolant, remove the thermostat and put the cooling system as an open circuit including the heater core. Pour in the whole container of 18E, add water till 1 inch from top of radiator, start and run engine on fast idle for half an hour and you get the same results as if it was done in a rad shop. It would probably take 2-3 containers for a 6V71. When your finished the cleaning just make sure to flush out the system of the solution and put the thermostat back in and refill the cooling system as required. Permatex 18E is a Hydrochloric Acid based cleaner. I just remembered don't have the rad cap on while you run the engine (safety first). I hope you can find 18E or a reasonable substitute. Just my 2 cents worth.
Nice work Scott, I wish my Dad was still alive, he'd enjoy watching, he was a garage mechanic starting in the 1930s. AND there is a Detroit Diesel section in his Motors Manual!
Great documentary work Scott and Kelly, on the bus project! We can’t wait for the next episode!
Great job on the swapp. Man that is some heavy duty job..
Hi Keith from England you never take on simple jobs fantastic channel keep up the good work on these old bus's keep safe 👍🇬🇧
Good call on the Rad flush. Good to see someone that takes pride in their work & does right by their customers! Have a wonderful day & stay safe during these times.
Scott, I noticed in the gasket shot how great your hands look. You must be moisturizing!
I had a rusty block. Filled with garden hose warmed engine and drained a few times, until no more chunks came out. Then put in EvapoRust total fill with water . Ran engine every few hours but do get it over 150°. Left it in for a few days. Cooling system was clean. Rinse with water a few times then fill with coolant.
hello scott and kelly wow both of you are doing a amazing job and scott the other engine install in in the bus is really looking good and i know once you have all the parts needed connected the engine will sound awesome but like i've said before you are great at what you do and i really enjoy watching you in these videos fix and replace engines that need replacing so i can't wait to see the finished job on this bus when i watch your next video on it so thankyou very much and until next video i say bye for now from Randy from ontario.canada take care and stay safe out there .
Nice job on that gasket!
that bus must have been owned by the Osmonds... looks like Salt Lake water. Thanks for bringing us along on this one.
Kelly is an awesome helper!
Wow it is something how that back structure holds all that weight. I remember how you talked about the importance of the roof and floor in the rear of them
that 671 N looks good with new paint
nice working together scott and kelly.
I've used CLR run, flush and reflush. Really cuts the crud.
Looking good
I had the pleasure of working on a 4-53? once. I built hydraulic machinery for the offshore industry. The shop guys 'rebuilt' a second motor to power a 3 drum waterfall skagit winch. It was turned over to me to finalize and test. Lets just say, the boys in the shop did not satisfy me. Spent nearly a week correcting their 'incomplete' service. When I did finish, unit performed to strick calculations tirelessly. Ennjoyed that project very much. Detroit's are the preferred motor sources used in the offshore industry, seen some 'BIG' ones out there.
Dishwasher tablets with water makes effective cooling system flush. Plain water doesn't do much.
Sodder Bridge
... original Cascade powder is better at degreasing. Transmission shop suggested it when we split the trans oil cooler years ago and the radiator was full of ATF.
Sodder Bridge not a bad idea. That whole engine must be coated with that aluminum oxide from corrosion. That can make a huge difference in cooling and can result in overheating.
@@rupe53 That Cascade is a pretty unique idea. Have to keep that in mind.
@@giggiddy ... it's one of the things I picked up after50 years working the trade. Another trick was using the original formula Easy-Off oven cleaner to get the crud out of valve covers and oil pans when we didn't have access to a hot tank, although I have to admit it works better on small 2-stroke engine cases and cyl heads, after you clean the oil off first. It's so nice working on a head without all that black carbon all over the bench!
You know you say that pretty sure you've never used it pretty sure you've never driven a vehicle long-term afterwards because you wouldn't say that had you done that to your engine you see it gets into the engine itself destroys the bond inside head gaskets deteriorates the adhesion properties of silicone it's because of this exact practice because of mechanic wasn't smart enough to put a radiator test kit after doing a oil cooler replacement cost me a $4,000 engine to get grease and oil out of your engine since grease and oil float especially when they're hot take the radiator cap off start the engine let it get hot the circulation of the engine will bring most of not all of the oil or transmission fluid or whatever the screw up was into the top of the radiator core where you can get the biggest part of it out with grease rags but dipping them into the radiator and pulling them out but if you put Dawn dishwashing liquid or some kind of dishwasher detergent into your engine you will regret that decision in a few thousand miles
Looks good hope it runs good too
@0:26 the old school GMC logo on the upper radiator bracket. Pretty cool!!!
I like to coat bolts with grease that go through aluminum like that. I really helps prevent that corrosion.
damn that cooling system is dirty. looks like some one ran just straight tap water in it.
Thomas T.... which would possibly explain why it over-heated.... plain water boils at a lot lower temp than with a 50/50 antifreeze mix.... and No Detroit 2 cycle (Expecially with 4 valve head(s)... should Ever see over 190 degrees.
Those Daytona jacks are bullet proof
Awesome work
Thanks for the amazing video best Grease monkey can't wait to see the motor running video
500 years from now someone will find several 9/16 sockets buried in the dirt near your pad but not one 10mm socket #DetroitDiesel
10mm by the container for sure
It's amazing how much of a GM/Detroit Diesel 71 series you can take apart with a 9/16" wrench.
Scott... anytime I have aluminum with steel bolts, I always put a good film of Anti-Seize compound on the bolt shaft (& threads, of course).... and Never have issues with inter-active corrosion.
cant wait to hear this puppy run.
You make it look easy.👍
Thermostat bolts - if you coat the bolts with anti-seize it may slow / prevent the interaction between the 2 metals.
Any time I have a dissimilar metals situation like that, I always use some never sneeze on the bolts...
Glad thats you Scott and not me good work there sir
Good day sir i used dish washer soap to fluss my 8V71 it works good no bubbles
Lots of chalky crud in there. They must have used high alkaline tap water . BTW, that kind of hammer is a favorite of mine- it’s great for driving in tent pegs in a place we go to that is now grass, but was once a very old gravel parking area - the technical name for those is a driller’s hammer.
I think that's the right thing to do by flushing the system and your assistant did a heck of a job with that gasket
I call that perma-kelly.
I've used pvc pipe in place of a radiator with a T on top to flush an engine and maybe ad a cleaner or baking soda to it for circulation
stick a water hose in the T for flushing and cooling works great. reinstall the radiator and coolant
good video, keep them coming
Great vid again.
14:54 It is amazing what job those hanger bolts are trusted to do.
You got one heck of a good assistant there she even does great gasket work .....keep up the good work i enjoy your videos.....
seems you need a smaller hammer looks like a crack in the fuel filter housing now also from the top fitting port you hammered the easy out into..in case you didn't see it
Not from hammering it threaded in further before it came loose. Cracked the filter housing. I saw it and replaced it with the one from the other engine
Thanks been waiting for an eternity for this one.
Marine dissimilar metal paste is good when you have steel in aluminum
I use a commercial HVAC liquid descaler called EcoLyme. Safer on metals and concentrated for different solution strength.
Must have new camera....great quality video
One tool I’d make would be a 55 gallon drum with inlet and outlet pipes to fit the radiator hoses on the engine. You could run the engine with the cooling water circulating from the drum to the engine and back allowing the dirt to settle out in the drum. You could just keep that on site for such jobs.
I’m assuming that thermostat housing is a GM part but not Detroit Diesel, therefore probably long out of production.
Might be worth having someone model it up so a duplicate could be made by CNC machining. Once the milling file is created, producing replacement parts wouldn’t be hard.
Always check your blower for t-shirts! Lol. If you like the Knipex you should try Channel Lock 410. If find they have more bite.
I always check my blower for t shirts.
I cut a transmission pan gasket this morning using the exact same Felpro material!! Excellent stuff. Kelly is more precise than I am.
Great video.. Wonder how the inside of the water pump looks like.
neat video. only comment that I have is that I might have sent the radiator out to be rodded and cleaned. Now is the time to do it while it is out. just a thought
Your 3rd hand you're holding the screen of your bore scope with is way more girly than your other 2. 😀
Thanks Kelly!
Non foaming powdered automatic dishwasher detergent works excellent for cleaning crud out of a contaminated cooling system. And it's cheap. I've used it on 2 of my Caterpillar truck engines, and it works. Actually got it from a Cat service bulletin. Don't see why it wouldn't work on a Detroit. I use 3 cups per flush.
Great stuff, your videos. Can I ask what the make and type of your main camara is? Amazing picture quality. Greetings from Hekelingen, Holland. Willem.
You have as much faith in Harbor Freight tools as I do, especially a jack. I'd want plenty of safeguards as well. Hard to resist those prices though.
Just cautious of any jack. Hydraulic anything is dangerous when the smallest part fails
That visual inspection inside the radiator was like make sand castles 🏰 in the beach might be deeper and see the bottom side in the top you can find nothing
Our mechanics used to use toilet cleaner like tidy bowl on our Detroits to flush out the engines.
Made me belly laugh checking for t shirt in the intake! Kids and wife think I'm out of my mind worse than ever
dang i need some cork gaskets made for my old hotrod i know who to ask to make them for me Mrs Kelly
You're like a doctor using a camera in a patient!
That's a big job are you doing it by yourself? Nice video.
Awesome
How about the bottom end of those tubes could they be blocked off with corrosion?
I was reading about Tefgel which is used in marine applications as an effective solution for keeping aluminum from corroding to stainless and regular steel. Curious if it would be effective if swabbed on the water hose casting to keep it from sticking in the future.
that power in the water manifold: The long bross will say: SODABLAST !!! But i think its just chalk from a previus waterfilling instead of colant.. Good choice to drain the system before overhauling that radiator...
Me likey thisem her videah !!
Have you considered a by-pass coolant filter ? It will save you hours of headache , labor and money!
Take a Dremel tool & split the nut with a small cutoff wheel ,once you have done this you will never have that trouble again ...Missouri Paul
The nut was spinning. The problem was the housing stuck to the studs. Dremmel would have taken more time and risked damaging the stud
This is a prime example of why we would want coolant filters on our diesels.
BGM.. are you going to swap in a new water pump also... heading off possible issues since you are putting in so much work in the cooling system.. preventing a cooling system failure in the future..??
Hi Grease Monkey,
I see you use a nifty Craftsman socket/wrench set in a red case. Can you tell me which make/model this is. I would like to find a set like this. Thank you.
put about 5 gal of 45 percent ammonia in the radiator while out, rotate it upside down and upside right every couple hours and it will dissolve all the deposits. You can find it on amazon.
Run some CLR through it, it cleans up the lime deposits etc
What decade were the 4501s built in?
Put CASCADE DISHWASHER CLEANER IN THE COOLANT SYSTEM LET IT RUN UNDER TEMPERATURE FOR 30-45min several times it will be clean as a whistle
5:50 The only "right tool" for a stripped fastener is whatever the fuck you can get to make it turn!
I wonder if the cooling system contaminant is old dried out radiator sealer?
That's what I was thinking also
Yo, if you can run that engine for any le th of time, put water softening compound in. It will clean all the residue loose so it can be flushed out with water.
What's that camera you're using in the beginning and how much did it run yoy?
Pretty sure i phone 11pro
Engine hasn't run yet... fingers crossed.
Yowser he’s seen it running on video.
@@simonmorris3964 I think there is a difference between 'seeing it run' on video and being there 'in person'. Hope for luck.
CLR is also biodegradable
I like how your liberal use of KRO-OIL nothing unseizes a bolt like that stuff man ill tell ya. Mixed with a little tranny fluid and works wonders on stuck rings and valves. Im doing a timing job on my 04 ford f150 with the nightmare 3 valve 5.4 v8 and the truck is spotless and mi t and the engine looks like it c are off the titantic and a quarter can of kro oil disassembled the whole motor inside and out
👏👏🇧🇷🇧🇷🎱
I found a twenty percent solotion of bleach run in the engine will clean a radiator grunge better than any commercial flush!
Go down to Harbor Freight and get you one of the cheap air chisel, they are worth there weight in gold instead of a hammer and chisel
Not that it matters but coolest and engines are happier with distilled water. It’s cheap to buy although it tastes horrible.
What’s the contaminant? Calcium from hard water?
Yes. Tap water in combination with lack of change outs and dissimilar metals. My 91 350 SDL suffered the same issue which was solved by the application of $ in the correct direction
Wow there sure isn't much holding that engine cradle in on those things....
with motors with coolant systems that are THAT contaminated, just run a couple two or three gallons of CLR through it. or even just white vinegar which is much cheaper.
Why not use the other radiator to flush the system? Then you can get the one you need welded to the shop.
What’s the “make” of the camera you’re using?
iPhone 11pro max
Bus Grease Monkey What I meant to ask is what “make is the probe”
Wouldn't it have been easier to change thermostat housing while engine was out?
Was borrowing a tractor i got the engine hooked but not installed
you know it wouldn't have been a big deal to use that other rad with the smaller inlet. It wouldn't have restricted flow volume, it would have just accelerated the flow through that port.
You only have 3 clamps ! need 4 !