You can reach under the car dash and do it. I used a standard 3/8 craftsman 7 inch long and the width including the socket length is 1 1/2 inch long. It fit perfectly with a little room to spare. Torque is 5NM per manual and felt easy to loosen even though my arm is weak from that angle. Nut was 10mm like you said. It's the nut on the upper left of the back side of this unit. There is a nearby nut toward the middle and that's the wrong one having to do with some unrelated wiring. Your video really helped finding where it all was, excellent job.
People, you def dont need to remove the dash, thats just over kill. I grabs my camera scope to see where its at first, then i reach in with my hand with a baby ratchet with a 10mm and bam! The hardest part is removing the connecter but just look at your new one and youll be fine. Im 6 feet tall and i was able to reach under there no problem with a little room to spare . anyone can do this unless your obese
Is there a reprogramming or anything you have to do after installing the new pump and resistor to get the car running? Do you in fact need a scan tool to bleed the brakes?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you! Is there anything you need to do with a scan tool to program the new brake actuator to the car, or will simply plugging it in clear the codes and allow the car to run without the brake warning lights coming on?
Is it possible to diagnose the failing ABS module when its out of the car? I was at a junkyard and pulled one, but havent purchased it yet. OEM brand new is expensive.
Just bought a gen2 used prius with 100,000 km with abs issue.. my abs motor is nut running when i open the driver door, though when i open the fuse box, i can hear relays clicking,but when the car is in ready model and starts to move the abs motor run wheh i press the brake while in motion , but during this case most of the braking power come from rear wheels and not front wheels.. Now, because of this, I am having a few codes related to the abs module. These codes are c1313, c1377, and c1256.. what can i do solve the issue..all fuses are ok, and i can hear abs relays clickiking. Any help please
I just swapped the ABS unit for a {purportedly used but tested unit] Got it back together, and the car has a non-stop screaming alarm and I hear no running of the new(er) ABS unit. It's not running at all, tried to bleed brakes. Any tips?
Great advice! What do u think makes actuators GO bad? I jst sub'd lately, great videos. Appreciate prius vids. Love the steering wheel cover!💗💖 Also, like that Im not the ONLY one who's too old to get into tight spots!😂🤣
I think the valve that closes the accumulator leaks, possibly due to contamination. I have a few Gen 2 and one Gen 3 actuators, and I will probably do a video on taking them apart and looking at a possible cause. Thanks for the sub!
I know what makes the actuator go bad probably. It's the brake oil change needing to be done every year. I never changed it once and I made it to about 200,000 miles when it began leaking and intermittent buzzing . I had the actuator go out when it rained because whenever it had heavy activation it would be overwhelmed and deactivate then come back in a few seconds. Finally it gave out for not just a minute but for like 30-60 minutes this time before working again at 238,000 miles and it was now too annoying to have to put so much force on the gas pedal and it wouldn't stop whilst maintaining straight for very fast stops so it was too dangerous then. I went in for a Toyota's brake oil change at the dealership and the problem never came back during the rain so that's how I know clean brake fluid stops the problem. Yes it still leaked with the noise every 6 seconds but it worked. I still had the frequent pumping because it wasn't holding pressure but it still worked for even another 35,000 miles about more until it failed randomly for 2 minutes and I finally swapped in a new one.
Nitrogen is a very small molecule. It is impossible to seal into an accumulator indefinitely. My personal belief is they lose their pre-charge. In other words, the nitrogen leaks out just like a shock absorber wears out overtime.
You can reach under the car dash and do it. I used a standard 3/8 craftsman 7 inch long and the width including the socket length is 1 1/2 inch long. It fit perfectly with a little room to spare. Torque is 5NM per manual and felt easy to loosen even though my arm is weak from that angle. Nut was 10mm like you said. It's the nut on the upper left of the back side of this unit. There is a nearby nut toward the middle and that's the wrong one having to do with some unrelated wiring. Your video really helped finding where it all was, excellent job.
I’m 6’6” and couldn’t fit ha ha!
Mr B I love your video. I am in the process of changing my ABS on my 2008.
Thank you for the videos you are very helpful and appreciated for the upload !!!! Have a wonderful day as you have made mine !
Thank you Master greetings from Honduras 😊😊
Always good to learn something new, keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching!
People, you def dont need to remove the dash, thats just over kill. I grabs my camera scope to see where its at first, then i reach in with my hand with a baby ratchet with a 10mm and bam! The hardest part is removing the connecter but just look at your new one and youll be fine. Im 6 feet tall and i was able to reach under there no problem with a little room to spare . anyone can do this unless your obese
I know this video is old but can you get a new resistor to use with a used actuator? Or is it not worth it
Is there a reprogramming or anything you have to do after installing the new pump and resistor to get the car running? Do you in fact need a scan tool to bleed the brakes?
@@chrismark6574 Toyota says you do need a scan tool to bleed the brakes. Some people say there is a work around but I’ve never tried it.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Thank you! Is there anything you need to do with a scan tool to program the new brake actuator to the car, or will simply plugging it in clear the codes and allow the car to run without the brake warning lights coming on?
Is there a way to run any kind of test on a scanner to see if this is what is causing the damage and not the pump?
Unfortunately no, none that I know of.
Is it possible to diagnose the failing ABS module when its out of the car? I was at a junkyard and pulled one, but havent purchased it yet. OEM brand new is expensive.
Just bought a gen2 used prius with 100,000 km with abs issue.. my abs motor is nut running when i open the driver door, though when i open the fuse box, i can hear relays clicking,but when the car is in ready model and starts to move the abs motor run wheh i press the brake while in motion , but during this case most of the braking power come from rear wheels and not front wheels..
Now, because of this, I am having a few codes related to the abs module. These codes are c1313, c1377, and c1256.. what can i do solve the issue..all fuses are ok, and i can hear abs relays clickiking.
Any help please
Where do you get this part? Do you have a part #?
Is there a DTC for resistor?
I just swapped the ABS unit for a {purportedly used but tested unit] Got it back together, and the car has a non-stop screaming alarm and I hear no running of the new(er) ABS unit. It's not running at all, tried to bleed brakes. Any tips?
Hard to say, any codes stored in the abs?
Previous owner of the vehicle disconnected this.. where does this plugin I cannot find any videos out there for where it plugs back in!!
It is a hard spot to video
Disconnected it why? To turn off the pump and drive as is, without ABS or brake assist? Did it work?
Would this prevent the pump from going on at all ?
Yes it will, if it is burned out
Hello, I have a lexus hs250h 2010 and I have these error codes in ABS. c1259 c1310
I want to repair and can you give me advice?
Great advice! What do u think makes actuators GO bad? I jst sub'd lately, great videos. Appreciate prius vids. Love the steering wheel cover!💗💖 Also, like that Im not the ONLY one who's too old to get into tight spots!😂🤣
I think the valve that closes the accumulator leaks, possibly due to contamination. I have a few Gen 2 and one Gen 3 actuators, and I will probably do a video on taking them apart and looking at a possible cause. Thanks for the sub!
Most assume it is a factory defect since Toyota offered extended coverage on gen2 and gen3 actuators.
I know what makes the actuator go bad probably. It's the brake oil change needing to be done every year. I never changed it once and I made it to about 200,000 miles when it began leaking and intermittent buzzing . I had the actuator go out when it rained because whenever it had heavy activation it would be overwhelmed and deactivate then come back in a few seconds. Finally it gave out for not just a minute but for like 30-60 minutes this time before working again at 238,000 miles and it was now too annoying to have to put so much force on the gas pedal and it wouldn't stop whilst maintaining straight for very fast stops so it was too dangerous then. I went in for a Toyota's brake oil change at the dealership and the problem never came back during the rain so that's how I know clean brake fluid stops the problem. Yes it still leaked with the noise every 6 seconds but it worked. I still had the frequent pumping because it wasn't holding pressure but it still worked for even another 35,000 miles about more until it failed randomly for 2 minutes and I finally swapped in a new one.
Nitrogen is a very small molecule. It is impossible to seal into an accumulator indefinitely. My personal belief is they lose their pre-charge. In other words, the nitrogen leaks out just like a shock absorber wears out overtime.
Anyone have the part number for the resistor?
I hate doing them . 😒
Not a fun job for sure, thanks for watching!
I know this video is old but can you get a new resistor to use with a used actuator? Or is it not worth it