Like and subscribe for more! All parts, tools and more information in the video description. If this video helped you, please support the channel by clicking "Thanks"! We also have memberships to our channel with great perks! ruclips.net/channel/UC0HkS2-1Tk1ULQJj3uGbjdwjoin Thanks for watching!
Hi there ! Thanks a lot for your video! I did it yesterday. It's working for the moment. It tooks me around 6hours with brake bleeding and freezing liquid bleeding. Thanks again for your video!
A+ video. Super simple and inspires confidence to DIY the dreaded ABS issue. Zero complaints. Idk if you have access to tech stream, but how to bleed the brakes using tech stream would be Uhhhhh-mazing.
@@TutorialGenius STUCK! on last harness under the small hose, connected to the mount, frozen. BUT was able to twist the ABS mount & remove the rear rubber mounted nut with the front & third remaining nut/bolt, it's now loose & should come out, right? but doesn't. Is there something else mounted to the ABS module from underneath, the weight? any insight on what could still be holding the ABS module to the mount would be appreciated. Thanks for getting me this far👍
@@TutorialGenius UNSTUCK - sprayed w/WD40 & let sit over the weekend, removed it today. There's no way to get it out without removing it with th mount assembly, weight is attached.
@@toekneetogo Yup! Just like 16:53 in the video. The bracket has to come with it. Tip: Standard WD-40 is not a penetrating fluid (Unless you get the more expensive can that specifically says 'penetrating' on it.). It's a lubricant. But more importantly congratulations!!! Hopefully you have a great sense of accomplishment and achievement! (and a heavier wallet from the money saved haha!)
@@TutorialGenius bucks saved - YES! As the video goes on at 17:12 when I got all 3 out I figured it would slide out once the bracket nut was off, but nada. The weight attached to it underneath is too long with no room to lift the module & slide out :( but success getting it out & the replacement in👍 That's where I stopped, blisteringly hot today. Re-connecting batteries & bleeding another day, crossing fingers this used ABS Module will work & have a bit of life still left in it. update pending.....
I've done this repair. Remove the wiper assembly first or you will really struggle removing the inverter mounts. It is worth the extra 5 minutes it takes. Also just disconnect and remove the inverter entirely. The cooling system is separate from the engine and not hard to refill. I also took apart my abs module and tried to repair it. My theory is that there was something allowing hydraulic pressure to bleed off some where in the valve body. To take the module apart the circuit board must have the spot welded connections to the coils and the two wires to the motor broken, then the circuit board pulls off (these can be soldered back after). I found that there are 7 o-rings that connect the valve body to pressure transducers. If your circuit board is filled with brake fluid, these seal would be leaking and that's the source of the problem. That was not my problem though. There are no other seals I could get to and nothing else removable under the circuit board side. I could remove the motor, but not the pump without destroying it. My solution was somewhat complicated and only partially worked. I purchased a used abs module and after fully installed it, I found that it was cracked and wouldn't work. I swapped the accumulator from this used module to mine, which I had put back together, and reinstalled everything. My abs pump ran less frequently and didn't throw another code for at least several months ( I don't have the car anymore). My theories on what the problem is: The accumulator goes bad and needs to be replaced. I was unable to find a new one to install, nor any specs to retrofit. The pump wears out and struggles to build pressure. Pump cannot be removed by any means I could see, it looked pressed in and locked in with a seal. I think since swapping the accumulator worked for me, retrofitting a new accumulator sourced from another toyota or something industrial would be a good solution to this issue.
I replaced mine following your video but my codes didn’t go away. Bled the brakes, but my pedal is hard and seems it lags to brake. When braking only one wheel locks and the right one keeps rotating. Like if the caliper isn’t working. Any recommendations?
what are the chances that just bleeding the brakes would make the low pressure issue go away? the car only has 130K miles on it and only low pressure error but no lights on the dash, but I do hear the ABS actuator over working
Taking the wipers and wiper cowl takes only 5 minutes and makes the job a lot easier rather than squeezing your hands behind and to the side. It also allows you to bring out the unit faster.
Hello there I have 04 Toyota Pruis problem with ABS unit it was making noise. I took the ABS unit check it. I just got a used one from E-bay turn out to a bad ABS unit. So I put the old unit back in the car but I am having hard time to get the last FUCKING brake line to hook up the line on the top of the ABS unit. Could you tell me easy way to hook up the last brake line. Without beening the brake ok the other 4-lines they hookup except one on the top 5-brake line ok
Hopefully you didn’t strip the thread on the abs pump as if you did, you’re pretty much screwed as it will leak. However, it should go in by hand and for better access remove the wipers and cowl that way it’ll be easier to access
Like and subscribe for more! All parts, tools and more information in the video description.
If this video helped you, please support the channel by clicking "Thanks"!
We also have memberships to our channel with great perks! ruclips.net/channel/UC0HkS2-1Tk1ULQJj3uGbjdwjoin
Thanks for watching!
The only instructions worth anything on RUclips!!!!❤
❤❤
Hi there ! Thanks a lot for your video! I did it yesterday. It's working for the moment. It tooks me around 6hours with brake bleeding and freezing liquid bleeding.
Thanks again for your video!
You're welcome! :)
Such a detailed and easy-to-follow tutorial. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! :)
A+ video. Super simple and inspires confidence to DIY the dreaded ABS issue. Zero complaints. Idk if you have access to tech stream, but how to bleed the brakes using tech stream would be Uhhhhh-mazing.
Appreciate the very detailed step-by-step! I
I'm going after mine tomorrow & will use your video as a guide, you've got me very optimistic! 👍
Good luck!! You can do it! :)
@@TutorialGenius STUCK! on last harness under the small hose, connected to the mount, frozen. BUT was able to twist the ABS mount & remove the rear rubber mounted nut with the front & third remaining nut/bolt, it's now loose & should come out, right? but doesn't. Is there something else mounted to the ABS module from underneath, the weight? any insight on what could still be holding the ABS module to the mount would be appreciated. Thanks for getting me this far👍
@@TutorialGenius UNSTUCK - sprayed w/WD40 & let sit over the weekend, removed it today.
There's no way to get it out without removing it with th mount assembly, weight is attached.
@@toekneetogo Yup! Just like 16:53 in the video. The bracket has to come with it.
Tip: Standard WD-40 is not a penetrating fluid (Unless you get the more expensive can that specifically says 'penetrating' on it.). It's a lubricant.
But more importantly congratulations!!! Hopefully you have a great sense of accomplishment and achievement! (and a heavier wallet from the money saved haha!)
@@TutorialGenius bucks saved - YES! As the video goes on at 17:12 when I got all 3 out I figured it would slide out once the bracket nut was off, but nada. The weight attached to it underneath is too long with no room to lift the module & slide out :( but success getting it out & the replacement in👍 That's where I stopped, blisteringly hot today. Re-connecting batteries & bleeding another day, crossing fingers this used ABS Module will work & have a bit of life still left in it. update pending.....
I've done this repair. Remove the wiper assembly first or you will really struggle removing the inverter mounts. It is worth the extra 5 minutes it takes. Also just disconnect and remove the inverter entirely. The cooling system is separate from the engine and not hard to refill.
I also took apart my abs module and tried to repair it. My theory is that there was something allowing hydraulic pressure to bleed off some where in the valve body. To take the module apart the circuit board must have the spot welded connections to the coils and the two wires to the motor broken, then the circuit board pulls off (these can be soldered back after). I found that there are 7 o-rings that connect the valve body to pressure transducers. If your circuit board is filled with brake fluid, these seal would be leaking and that's the source of the problem. That was not my problem though. There are no other seals I could get to and nothing else removable under the circuit board side. I could remove the motor, but not the pump without destroying it.
My solution was somewhat complicated and only partially worked. I purchased a used abs module and after fully installed it, I found that it was cracked and wouldn't work. I swapped the accumulator from this used module to mine, which I had put back together, and reinstalled everything. My abs pump ran less frequently and didn't throw another code for at least several months ( I don't have the car anymore).
My theories on what the problem is:
The accumulator goes bad and needs to be replaced. I was unable to find a new one to install, nor any specs to retrofit.
The pump wears out and struggles to build pressure. Pump cannot be removed by any means I could see, it looked pressed in and locked in with a seal.
I think since swapping the accumulator worked for me, retrofitting a new accumulator sourced from another toyota or something industrial would be a good solution to this issue.
Thank you. Very detailed video.❤
Glad it was helpful. You're welcome! 😊
Great vid! How did you bleed the brakes afterwards?
I ended up selling the car for parts, so I didn't do that, but there is a tutorial on RUclips that shows you how. You can do it via the OBDII port.
I replaced mine following your video but my codes didn’t go away. Bled the brakes, but my pedal is hard and seems it lags to brake.
When braking only one wheel locks and the right one keeps rotating. Like if the caliper isn’t working. Any recommendations?
what are the chances that just bleeding the brakes would make the low pressure issue go away? the car only has 130K miles on it and only low pressure error but no lights on the dash, but I do hear the ABS actuator over working
Taking the wipers and wiper cowl takes only 5 minutes and makes the job a lot easier rather than squeezing your hands behind and to the side. It also allows you to bring out the unit faster.
That's another way of doing it, each to their own. I have done it both ways, I personally think my method is faster and easier.
Donde puedo comprar una computadora de ABS de Toyota Prius Año 2006
I was under impression these cars where easy to work on
Some components are a little tricky to access! I've ripped a couple of these cars apart. This job is definitely up there!
I got one pruis dealer aka me $3250 I can you me too do it?
wow, thats a good joke!
Remove wipers
Didn’t know there were snakes in the car 😂😂😂😂
vipers?
Hello there
I have 04 Toyota Pruis problem with ABS unit it was making noise. I took the ABS unit check it. I just got a used one from E-bay turn out to a bad ABS unit. So I put the old unit back in the car but I am having hard time to get the last FUCKING brake line to hook up the line on the top of the ABS unit. Could you tell me easy way to hook up the last brake line. Without beening the brake ok the other 4-lines they hookup except one on the top 5-brake line ok
How did you end up doing it?
Hopefully you didn’t strip the thread on the abs pump as if you did, you’re pretty much screwed as it will leak. However, it should go in by hand and for better access remove the wipers and cowl that way it’ll be easier to access