2008 Toyota Prius Gen 2 ABS Brake Actuator Replacement : A Step by Step Guide
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- Опубликовано: 31 янв 2022
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Today we look at this 2008 Toyota Prius Hybrid with a long list of ABS trouble codes and a customer complaint of weak brakes. I confirmed that the brakes were very weak upon a test drive. The ABS module had C1252, C1256, and the dead ringer... C1391 codes stored in memory. I quickly diagnosed the car with a failed ABS brake actuator.
The customer decided to replace the module with a factory unit from Toyota. Many people put used units in them to save money, but I have had issues with this in the past, and always recommend new units, especially if you are planning to keep the car for 2 years or more. These are problematic and can cause complete loss of brakes when failing.
Also when attempting this repair, please follow all safety guidelines for working on HIGH VOLTAGE COMPONENTS. I am shown in the video not using protective gloves, AND THIS IS A BAD PRACTICE. The car was powered down for two days before I removed the inverter cover. ALWAYS TEST FOR HIGH VOLTAGE BEFORE TOUCHING COMPONENTS!!!
I did not go over bleeding procedures due to the fact that it is completely dependent on scan tool used, and I was the only person there. You will need a good scan tool and a helper for bleeding the hydraulic system to complete this job!!! THERE IS NO WAY AROUND THAT.
I also recommend replacing the ABS pump resistor, and a video is coming on that in a week or so (HINT: It is under the left side of the dash).
If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below and I will do what I can to answer them.
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#priusabs #actuator #C1391 
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“Take your time it’s not that difficult”…30 seconds later..”it was little bit of a nightmare” lol
thanks for this. in every video i've seen, there's no demonstration of getting this thing back in, probably the hardest part of the job.
The resistor is very easy to replace and is by the firewall under the driver side corner. You can easily remove it using a small ratchet and 10mm socket.
Thank you for the step by step video! Took about 6-7 hours of work (including bleeding of brakes), I would rate difficulty 7.5/10. Pro tip on recalibrating make sure main battery orange clip is fully put in then push down from the top for full connection. If not your Prius won’t start ha!
Yes! That second click is important. Thanks for watching!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB hey Mr B like the video I have couple questions there any chance to reach out
I had this same problem
FYI. I just did that job today. One thing I did was use zip ties on the brake lines, tied them together and used another zip tie to pull the lines to the left. Also the line on top and the line that comes from the master cylinder, I used zip ties on the to hold them back. Ya, the jobs is terrible but the brake lines came through intact.
It is terrible. Gen 3 is much easier. I think the worst part is the teaching involved.
Your Video was very helpful. I was able to remove my 2008 Prius ABA unit successfully. Thank you
Great video. Thanks for posting. I can't really see myself doing this DIY, but at least it's possible to see how it's done!
Good morning family and good health to everyone. Thank you very much for the valuable information and for your time. 👍🏼 👍🏼 Good JOB
Thank you Master B, greetings from Honduras. I love your channel and your professionalism.
Thank you so much Alfredo! Greetings from the USA. I hope you learn a lot here.
I've done this repair. Remove the wiper assembly first or you will really struggle removing the inverter mounts. It is worth the extra 5 minutes it takes. Also just disconnect and remove the inverter entirely. The cooling system is separate from the engine and not hard to refill.
I also took apart my abs module and tried to repair it. My theory is that there was something allowing hydraulic pressure to bleed off some where in the valve body. To take the module apart the circuit board must have the spot welded connections to the coils and the two wires to the motor broken, then the circuit board pulls off (these can be soldered back after). I found that there are 7 o-rings that connect the valve body to pressure transducers. If your circuit board is filled with brake fluid, these seal would be leaking and that's the source of the problem. That was not my problem though. There are no other seals I could get to and nothing else removable under the circuit board side. I could remove the motor, but not the pump without destroying it.
My solution was somewhat complicated and only partially worked. I purchased a used abs module and after fully installed it, I found that it was cracked and wouldn't work. I swapped the accumulator from this used module to mine, which I had put back together, and reinstalled everything. My abs pump ran less frequently and didn't throw another code for at least several months ( I don't have the car anymore).
My theories on what the problem is:
The accumulator goes bad and needs to be replaced. I was unable to find a new one to install, nor any specs to retrofit.
The pump wears out and struggles to build pressure. Pump cannot be removed by any means I could see, it looked pressed in and locked in with a seal.
I think since swapping the accumulator worked for me, retrofitting a new accumulator sourced from another toyota or something industrial would be a good solution to this issue.
You are great educators
Interesting video. Next video can u saw us how to bleed the system by Toyota Scan tool. Thnk u
Yeah, I'm scrapping this prius. Thanks for the video.
Sorry to hear Greg, I hope it gave you good service before the end.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Approaching 250k miles. I might try and sell it as is, but that's usually more hassle than it's worth. Cheers!
@@gregutz4284 I would have bought it from you
very good video
Thanks for watching Patrick!
Thank you for the great video, I do not have any error codes or any problem when braking, but when I step very hard on the brake pedal of my 2011 Camry hybrid I hear the noise that is described by the dealership as ABS pump failure trying to accumulate pressure. I purchased a refurbished ABS assembly to install it myself but the noise disappeared for some reason, do I need to worry? this is my son's car. Thanks
I didn't know you had to replace the resistor under dash for this procedure (can't find other videos correlating this) Although there are different part numbers after the recall.
When you deal with the inverter system, it's a good idea to pull the fuse from the traction battery first.
where is that at, how do i do that? well that ensure theres no voltage without me having to get a voltmeter n check it?
@@austinlittke7688 Port side of traction battery. Pull the rear floor up, and it's on left . Not a fuse but a breakout. It's orange.
I'm thankful for mechanics because this is way to much work for me. Great video though
Thanks for watching Jamie!
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Got a quote for $3500 to do the job. Watched your video and decide to take a shot at doing myself. $1500 for the new part from a dealer which it also came with the resister. Got the new unit in ok. Pump runs as it should, but is making odd sounds with a bunch of dash lights on and odd internal beep when the peddle is pushed. Assuming that will all be resolved with the brake bleed. Was thinking of towing it to a local shop to have the bleeding done. Got quotes from $100 at Pepboys to $700 at a dealer before starting but did more research and now am in question on what to look for in a good shop to address this since I would only want to tow to one place or if it’s possible to get a good scan tool that’s cheaper than the official Techstream equipment and do myself? Is there something to ask when checking out a shop? There are a lot of cheap mini VCI doggles out there that come with “scan tool” software. Is the anything you would recommend or things to look for when going this route? My car is a 2008.
I’m curious what you ended up doing? I am thinking about doing the same thing you did and would like to know.
Can you please make a video of the brake bleeding procedure?
Hey Mr B I really like the video there’s any chance I have couple questions how I can reach out thanks
Hi I bought a used brake pump for my 2016 toyota aqua hybrid but the code on pump it different than the one that on my car . How to program it to work on my car
Is ECU coding the correct term for the computing work that needs to be done afterward. It seems for the price people are wanting to charge me I could just about buy my own tablet to do it myself. I looked into the MS906TS and although you’re right it seems like a very good unit I would like shop around for what I could buy at minimum, as I will likely only use a unit like this for my own purposes. Thx for your help. Doing this work myself is going save me thousands in the long run. 💸
If you buy the part new you won’t have to code it. You will need a scan tool with bi-directional control that can bleed the system and reset the linear valve calibration. I hope this helps!
Hello! Do you need to program anything after replacement
Мне кажется что Тойоте следовало бы начать отзывную кампанию по исправлению данной неисправности ввиду её большой опасности для движения автомобилей, как было сделано с помпой инвертора и валом рулевой колонки, да и что греха таить с фирменными тойотовскими ковриками попадающими под педаль газа.
Thank you so much for the video.
I was able to replace it.
Final issue is now I'm getting a p1121 coolant control valve stuck open.
Any clues as to why ?
The coolant control valve has probably failed, definitely replace with an OEM part
Great vid, Mr. B! I've thoroughly and decisively learned that I'll never ever attempt this repair and that my '08 Prius is heading to Pick a Part salvage yard in beautiful Horseheads, NY!
This video basically convinced me to not perform the replacement myself. Not worth the high voltage risk and potential of not doing everything correctly on the braking system.
Lots of “make sures” in this one. I’m in the thick of it so no turning back. I’ll write back if I don’t survive
@@madimakes Good luck! Take your time and think through things.
i put in a salvaged one and it isnt relearning.... yep i think its because the resistor doesnt match it.... anyway to trick it to work?
Hola le cambie el boster y la bomba ambas cosas nuevas de toyota originales ya frena muy bien pero las luces de abs brake bc y ! Nose apagan ya intente rl alambre y reseteo automatico pero no se apagan. Otra cosa al bombearla no veo q salga liquido de freno del boster o cilindro maestro pero aun asi lo probe y frena excelente ahora
Great education. Where can I found you…?
Thank you for this video. I do a lot of my own car repairs, but after watching this, I am smart enough to know that the $3500 quote I got from the dealer is actually a good deal!
I just found a secendhand ABS 680$ but it still like new as your abs.
Can you post the link to purchase from Toyota?
I pulled a Gen 3 at the junkyard and got charged for two abs controllers. I asked but they said that's how they do it. The bigger part looks like a brake booster and the other part looks like a small abs pump. Does the generation 2 prius contain exactly the same components all in one as the gen 3 pump or does gen 3 have more system components incorporated in those two parts?
This is my video on the Gen 2 Prius, which is very different than the Gen 3 setup. I have a video on the Gen 3 I will post below. As far as what they name the Gen 3 parts, it’s a little confusing, as explained in the video. Good luck with your repair! ruclips.net/video/s__Xp7tZ9Gw/видео.html
Physically where can I found you..? I am here in atlanta ga
You don't need anything fancy to reset the abs pump, and it will run itself (bleed itself) if you follow the steps. You also can do it by yourself (believe it or not)
How?
The easiest way is to put a broom stick on the brake. The ABS pump will run continuously. Be very careful not to run out of fluid.@@franksarni9739
I'm thinking about repairing the ABS unit. Seems like all it needs are some new O-rings. Have you done this? I've seen rebuilt units for sale on E-bay.
I have not rebuilt one.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB Have you thought about making a video about doing this? Buying an O-ring kit that costs a few dollars is much better to me than spending over a thousand for the unit. These cars are old and just don't have a high valuation.
I still have a brake accumulator issue on my 2010 prius. I'm in augusta. About how much would you charge for my repair?
What is the labor time to replace the ABS Brack Actuator>?
I don’t have a labor guide but 4-5 hours seems fair
How much abs?
I purchased the ABS actuator from a salvage company and didn't get the resister that you speak of. What's the worst thing that could happen if I reuse the original resister? Will the system still allow me to bleed the system with Techstream and work properly?
I would get a new resister and install it just to make sure that it won’t cause any problems
No need to get the resister sir . The resister came with if you buy a new ABS actuator from the Toyota company , So there's no problems. I did it on my car And works perfectly ☺️☺️
What ended up happening? I’m going to be doing the same thing tomorrow
@@Isaac-xf1tq I installed the used actuator and used my mini VCI to bleed the system. I got a copy of Techstream from the Toyota website and payed for it since my copy would not complete the bleeding procedure. So far, no issues, and the resistor is the original one that came with the car. Take pictures as u disassemble, and keep track of fasteners and what goes where and remember short vs long bolts of the same size. Have a mirror and magnet - both on a telescoping wand - u will likely need them. Tell me how it goes and best of luck!
@@plumkey197 look up how to install techstream in 5 minutes if you don't want to pay for the official version.
How much for ABS ?
Hello sir I am a decent DIY mechanic and have a scan tools to do the job. After watching your video I would rather not attempt this because its my friends car. I am not comfortable attempting ABS actuator replacement, too many things can go wrong. She has never flushed and replaced the brake fluid in this 2008 Prius with 157,000 miles. Do you think its possible that I could get lucky with a thorough brake fluid flush and the pump start working normal or no chance of that? For people doing this job I would highly recommend flushing and replacing the old brake fluid before starting this job. That way the new actuator will only see fresh uncontaminated brake fluid. Thanks
I have never seen a flush fix an actuator because the problem is normally a mechanical one. The valves stop sealing and pressure leaks.
I did this and it made my AC turn off. I'm so confused as to why my compressor won't turn on.
Is the problem in ABS ECU or the mechanical part of the pump?
Edit: on my prius '05 in period od 100miles it turns on and off for around 30 times. Sometimes its on sometimes its normal and not beeping that high pitch anoying sound.
It is hard to tell, which is why it is advisable to replace the whole assembly. The accumulator valve can leak or the pump can wear to where it will not put out the proper pressure.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB i think in my situation only brushes are problem. When i hit it with extention it starts and lights turn off.
In a week ill try to repair it and let you know.
Can i put dot4 brake oil and do d the bleeding proces ?
@alennovak8446 it requires dot 3 so 4 should be fine
Has anyone dissembled the actuator and figured out why it fails to start with?
Letting the brake fluid (esp low-grade bf) sit in these cars wears out the abs pump. Should purge and replace with full synthetic at least every few years.
How can I get brake booster of folder hybrid
Filder hybrid
Help! Anyone! I did the ABS pump replacement, and now trying the bleed procedure, and I'm not getting the buzz/priming noise from the new pump at all. What could the problem be? (I'd ask Priuschat, but the whole site is down)
Did you replace the pump resistor? Is it a new pump or used?
@@AutoScholarwithMrB used. Learned late today that my 12v battery died during the process - will have to wait until he dealership reopens in Monday to get it replaced - hopefully it fixes my problem!
Bought bran new, this was a nightmare for me! Lol
It is a tough install… glad you got it done! Thanks for watching, Ro.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you, they finally came down some in the new price also…..
Where is your shop? I want to bring my prius to you to fix this same issue
We are a school and don’t do outside repairs, I’m sorry.
@AutoScholarwithMrB well, youse are missing out on some serious cash jack
hey, anyone able to give legit advise on brake high pitch sound during traffic lights stops (not during braking to slow down). Surprisingly the OBD scan did not show any braking or ABS codes at all (done at workshop). the workshop seems to advise to change this brake booster assembly but I have doubts.
So please any related legit advise is welcome!? TIA😊
oh, by the way my car is a Toyota 1.5 cvt Hybrid 2016 model.
I saw some motor repair kit, is that servicable or not ?
or is just a replace job ?
I want to fix it
I haven’t seen any way to fix this yet without total replacement.
@@AutoScholarwithMrBMostly everything can be fixed ill try. Let you know.
@Alennovak666 I would definitely be interested in knowing if you figure it out.
I have some situation beside car so i guess i wont dissasamble this week as i planed but in next few weeks i have too cuz this high pitch sound is killing me. And having no functional brake also can kill me.
I will make a video when ill do it and will share in comments.
@alennovak8446 no worries my friend
Why didnt you disconnect the batteries before doing this, wouldn't that be the safer thing to do?
Near the three minute mark I definitely do this.
How frequent is the problem?
Hard to say, but seems to show up around 150,000 miles at the earliest.
Dam a new doorman pump is 1600 bucks. Thatd make my prius worth 1601 bucks if I change it with a new one.
My god that’s a bugger of a job !!! I am not too enthusiastic about that .
You can do it! Just take your time. I believe in you!
That video is super long