Washing Your Winter Bike In 5 Minutes - A Guide For Cold Weather Rides
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- Your bike takes a lot of punishment in the winter months, so it’s important that you clean it. The rule I go by is little and often, because this is easier to do, and reduces both wear and cost.
Cleaning your bike:
The most vulnerable part of your bike is the drivetrain. Exposed metal components doesn’t take kindly to water, salt, grit & mud. Combine those contaminants with oil, and you end up with a grinding paste that, if left unaddressed, will destroy your drivetrain.
What method should you use to clean your drivetrain? If you’ve done 15 dry miles, then you probably won’t need to strip it down and put it in an ultrasonic cleaner. However, if you’ve done the Tour Divide, then you probably do! The answer is to use your common sense.
What I used to clean my bike
Stand:
amzn.to/47RcqkN
Muc-Off Drivetrain Cleaner:
amzn.to/3qRvChW
Muc-Off Bike Cleaner (Concentrate Version)
amzn.to/45pzcP7
Crankalicious Rotorissimo brake cleaner:
amzn.to/44pt5ZT
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
03:29 - Cleaning Products Summary
08:50 - Clean The Drivetrain
11:20 - A Quick Foam Bath
12:35 - Clean The Brakes
16:10 - Lube Baby!!
About Ribble Valley Cyclist:
I am a regular road cyclist based in the Ribble Valley, in the North West of England. I have been a cyclist my whole life, and try to get out every day. The purpose of my RUclips channel is to share the knowledge I’ve built up in my 40 years as a cyclist.
Follow me on Instagram:
/ ribblevalley_cyclist
See my routes on Komoot:
www.komoot.com/user/184990942...
Follow me on RUclips:
/ @ribblevalleycyclist
Email me:
ribblevalleycyclist@gmail.com
#crankalicious #bikecare #bikeclean #bikewash #wintercycling #winterkit #cyclingkit #review #cycling #cyclinglife #bikerepair #bikemaintenance #roadbike #workshop #rotorissimo 
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That intro is gold. Short, funny, not excessive.
I commute year-round through winter in Boston US area - heavy use of salt, often around freezing, including salty slush. I ride steel bikes, and my "winter beater" did 12 years with no significant rust. I actually switched to a better bike in winter now because I've realized it's easy to prevent it being destroyed.
The key is I don't touch it with any degreaser or detergent. Before winter I lube chain etc., with heavy oil like Phil's Tenacious or Chain-L, and treat other parts with T-9. I wipe all over with the oily rags from lubrication, and finish off with a cleaner rags - the bike looks clean and tidy and there's no oil residue to stain clothes. Before I lube and wipe clean it it's often covered in white crusted salt, which wipes right off with a rag because it's sitting on a layer of oil or T-9, not on paint or metal.
Hit it with degreasers and detergents and you're stripping protection, so you'd better re-apply *perfectly*. Sometimes I've done an imperfect job and see a hint of rust on some "stainless" nut or something, and some T-9 stops it dead.
For some reason this approach /really/ annoys some people who get downright angry when I suggest it, like I'm corrupting the children or something. I don't know what the problem is. The bike looks good, rides well, doesn't deteriorate, I get 3k miles from a basic KMC chain to 0.5% wear that never rusts by just wiping and oiling it every 3 or 4 weeks. I have chipped paint areas that have a faint patina and are otherwise protected by T-9. But apparently I'm doing it wrong .
Hi James,
Thanks for the detailed comments, it’s great to read.
First off, I agree with you 100%.
In my opinion, there is no ‘One Answer’ to winter bike maintenance/protection. You clean/maintain to your specific need/environment. So, for example, if you’re city riding, then the over-grease and forget process is the best way. And yes, I agree with you, degreasing a component that spends a great deal of time in a moist environment can have its downsides.
However, grease/oil is also an attractor of grit and mud. As I say in my video, oil that gets combined with grit and mud will act as the perfect grinding paste, and will destroy your drivetrain. Check out this video I did a little while back, I show the bike riding along the typical UK winter lane (7 mins in).
ruclips.net/video/X9VMpv2FRAo/видео.html In an environment like that, if you don’t degrease and clean, you’ll wreck your drivetrain.
So as I say James, it’s horses for courses. Removing grease means you’re also removing protection….. but it may also mean you’re removing the one thing that may corrode/destroy your bike. The bottom line is this, If your bike is surviving your winter, then you’re doing it right.
Oh, and I went to Boston once. I was on Manhattan, looked at the map, and said to myself “That doesn’t look too far, I’ll pop over and take a look….. Good way to waste a few hours”. Got that one a bit wrong!!!
Thanks for watching,
Jon
You're dead right about this and having ridden Motorcycles in the U.K. through the winter salt,the best thing I found was a U.K. product called "Waxoyl",sprayed liberally over the chrome and metal parts it looked dreadful after a few weeks but come the warmer weather, washing the waxoyl off with degrease it looked like new underneath.I think if you think of the underside of a car,it's grimy and dirty, but it's sealed and "waxoyl" is really designed for the underside of cars,the worst thing you could do is put your car on a ramp and blast of all the grease,sealant with a jet wash,it would probably look great temporarily but the salt and harsh weather would soon ravish it!.
The muc off pink stuff is hopeless! I gave up on that years go. As did ALL of my motor cycling pals.
It just doesn’t do anything. There is a Morgan Blue spray/cleaner that does work, it’s good! I do like the muc off tubeless gear and the Bike Protect is good too. Thanks for the vid.
Completely agree, James. I was given a large quantity of it in concentrate form with a load of bottles and other bits. I'm just trying to use it up. I still have 7 bottles left! I no longer stand by the product, so try not to show it in videos any more (This video is old)..... That's why it's not label out in any video for a while now, and turned in on my shelves. I do agree with you though, their tubeless sealant and bike protect is good. That pump action yellow degreaser they do is okay for quick 'On the bike' jobs too. However, they have products that sell very well, but can cause problems, so as I say, it's not a brand I stand by.
hi to clean in between the back gear cogs i use 4mm cord dampened with degreaser and spin the wheel going between each cog works great
Hi Lindsey. Great tip! And it's also really satisfying to do it this way 😂
Thanks for watching.
I'm pretty sure that if you buy 100% merino wool socks they will fit your 'Action Man' after a few washes,most of the 'merino wool' socks I have used are 70% man made fibres and 30% wool to avoid this shrinkage and make them easier to wash etc,great video's, keep up the good work.
I have would never oil the cassette, one drop on each chain roller
Paint brushes! Brilliant minds think alike. Love them.
It's the way forward. Forget those posh brushes. Go to the cheap shop, get a blister pack of cheap paint brushes 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist Paint brushes and bike cleaning go together like beans on toast... or peanut butter and jelly as we Americans would say 😂Designed specifically to hold liquid, they seem to do well at dipping into a cleaner and scrubbing the bike bits.
...and B&M is your friend for a source of good quality (Harris Contractor) keenly priced ones :-).
On metal frames, I use generic car wax. Whatever grime, mud or road salt may stick to the frame comes right off with a gentle wipe.
Hi Victor,
That's a good shout.
I wanted to mention after clean protectors, but I was concerned that the video would drag on and get boring. But yes, a post-clean surface protector can make all the difference.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
I've been using Turtle Wax shampoo to clean down my carbon frame. Is this wrong (you specify metal frames)? Thanks.
@@Robutube1 I can’t say, all my bikes have alloy frames. Others should know better.
There are myths that non-cycling specific bike cleaners contain salts that will damage your bike. In most cases, you can ignore this advice. I really can’t imagine Turtle Wax car shampoo will do any damage to your frame. Actually, I’d bet money it wouldn’t. It’ll be made up of a mild detergent and TFR…. Neither of which will cause damage.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Thanks John. My frame (a Ribble CGR SL) is chipped to buggery already (this will be my only and last Ribble) so it is about protecting it rather than drawing admiring glances, so I'm glad not to pay the velo-tax!
I do hot wax on my chain so often with take if off before cleaning. Then follow similar pattern to yourself. Getting a huge mileage on chains and have yet to change a chainset. (excepting rear cassette where i use 11-32 in winter and 11-36 in summer).
Hi Nigel,
I've considered waxing with the degreaser. It was one of the things I intended doing.......when I bought it a year ago!!! I ride with a few guys that also use wax, they swear by it. It's something I really need to get on.
Thanks,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist Have a look at ruclips.net/video/GmhX3G8pm5M/видео.html plus a load of other good stuff.
I've been using the chain wax (Squirt) for the last year seems to keep everything a lot cleaner.
Hi gaz 581966,
Just checked their website out. Is it the one they call Squirt E-Bike chain lube?
Thanks,
Jon
No it's just says wax and water emulsion Chain Lube you have to clean the chain completely before applying.I usually re apply after every 100 mile.After a wet ride I dry chain off and re apply
I got my local bike shop to clean my chain in their ultrasonic cleaner.Some people actually then soak their chain in melted wax.I just use the squirt wax works fine for me.Plenty of videos on RUclips.
Better luck with Merino socks! It is such an amazing material and worth giving another shot.
On order, ready for winter 🤣
I bought the same Merino ski socks that you had, they’re working for me, if its particularly cold I’m using the air activated heated insoles.
Does your winter include snow, ice and road salt? I am just starting to do winter rides here in Minnesota, USA. I am wondering about salt effects on aluminium bikes parts. Also, it is mostly below freezing here so washing outside seems no go.
Hi George,
I do ride in snow, but I tend to use my cheap Wiggle MTB. And yes, they love a bit of road salt here in the UK!
Salt is extremely corrosive to aluminium. If salty water comes into regular contact with aluminium, it will cause a chalky, white residue of aluminium oxide and a pitting of the metal's surface. So yes, it needs washing off.
The obvious thing would be to wash it off, but as you say, good luck getting the hose to work in a Minnesota winter!!
I think you’ll just need to employ a ‘damage limitation’ logic, whereby you grease what you can, and try and wash off the more expensive aluminium components.
Thanks,
Jon
I wholeheartedly second Jon. NYC is no Minnesota but Manhattanite apartment dwellers have no outdoor space. 🫤 For indoor maintenance, I would just advise against petroleum distillates, which are by and large nasty carcinogens. MucOff makes some decent alternatives. I brave the cold for a minute or so to spray chain wax instead of liquid lubricants. It tends to stay cleaner, longer- but washes off easily in the rain. To each, his own. 😌
Mate Viro-Sol (made by Clove chemicals) is for cleaning body deoposits from showers & cubicles in leisure centres & swimming pools - I used to be a cleaner so I’m intrigued as to why u use this on your bike?
Also u said be carful putting degreaser on the chain if we have a disc brake bike , but it seemed like u were less concerned how carful I was with normal bike cleaner so I take it this is not as bad for disc brakes as degreaser is - although I would just use a bit or cardboard to protect my discs or brake covers
The reason I suggest caution when cleaning near disc brakes is to avoid contamination via grease overspray.
Viro-Sol is a Citrus Based Cleaner/Degreaser. This is the official page for Viro-Sol, you can read all of its uses (including degreasing):
www.cloverchem.co.uk/2013/uk/mobile/m_prod_details.asp?prod_code=%27326%27&range_sub=%2720%27
I buy products in bulk and dilute into quality spray bottles.
No Nonsense degreaser (drivetrain, wheels) and Bilt Hamber Auto Foam 1:5 ratio (everywhere else) are my default products.
Compare the price of what you use v these 2
Hi Pigeon Poo,
I don’t state it in my videos, for fear of someone having an accident, but I use Virosol Citrus Cleaner Degreaser for both degreasing and cleaning. I use it neat in extreme cases (with caution), 50:1 in my ultrasonic cleaner, and 100:1 as a foaming cleaner. Virosol works out at roughly £14 for 5 litres. However, I will also use Muc-Off foaming cleaner, I buy this in the concentrate, once diluted, it works out at roughly £3.30 per litre.
I'll check the Bilt Hamber Auto Foam out, thanks for the tip.
Thanks,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist cheers for the advice. I'll try that Virosol next and dilute as you've suggested
This is worth a watch..... Not my best work, but it gives you an idea about Virosol:- ruclips.net/video/TcYqBjdiURo/видео.html