Hi, regarding powder coating the chassis I would never do that. I have over 30 years professional experiance of corrosion testing powder coating systems. If you coat zinc and get a scratch to the steel the exposed zinc will start to oxidize and save the steel. However the zinc area exposed is very small and will be consumed fast, creeping under the coating which will flake and blister. If not coated all zinc on the construction will be able contribute to the protection and the corrosion load will be spread out on the hole area. You will have adhesion problem if coating with powder due to zinc oxide on surface. Etch treatment is needed which causes problem inside welded joints. Powder coating will make inspection of chassis cracks imposible. I would clean and leave as is. I very much like you channel and wish you all the best👍
Thanks Johan and so happy you like the channel. So far my research agrees with what you are saying about the galvanized chassis. I plan to use some techniques in cleaning it up and leaving it be. I need to do some test spots and will share the experience when I get to it. Thanks so much for the feedback and the support!
Whats the condition of the marine plywood? Maybe this opportunity and cut an access door to the front of the motor (like the Ferrari 360). It would make timing belt changes a snap.
100% don't do this. Ferraris are designed this way - Lotus isnt. Depending on the hole you'd not want to make depends on how much weakness you'll introduce but I've done a few belts in my time and never wished to have access thru the body. Belt changes are not too tricky (pannning to do a video on it). If I saw an Esprit with a hole in the ply firewall I'd run a mile.
@@SlippingTime no worries it wont be for a while as the engine is being rebuilt and I cant see it being re-installed before April 2022. Hardest part is tensioning correctly in my opinion, rest is really straight forward, esp with a lift.
I wonder if you could find a fuel filler area from a wreck and glass the whole thing in?. I would start cutting and grinding and see what you have 🙂 On my 94 the bolts and rivets are painted. Not sure if it has been resprayed (I dont think so). Thinking they needed that brace in there to maintain body integrity while moving it around before frame attached?
I definitely think the bracing is helpful in reducing any flex to keep paint from popping off if things contract or expand when moving. I am talking with some auto body guys what they think. I prefer if possible to paint with the hardware off. It just seems so amateur to paint over hardware. For the fuel filler area I don’t want to cut anything until I have the prices I need to reference.
Have the gas cover powder coated? That may be hard to take back to the rectangle flap, but if your taking everything else to original then why not the flap?
Hi, i see your Concern about the original body color. I see on your VIN plate it says A02, which is Black... Get the history of the car from Lotus and discover hov it originaly was build. Keep up the spirit. /Kim
I looked at my low mileage 1986 Esprit door area and the bolts are painted as well as the rivets. This might have changed with the later design however.
I applaud your decision to return the taillight configuration to the original Peter Stevens design. It looks like a lot of effort, but it's period correct and anything else (even the V8 Elise taillights), spoil the integrity of the overall design. Which brings up the question of the fuel fillers. The chrome filler doors are similar to and remind me of a Dodge pickup truck all dolled up. Returning those to original will be a monumental task probably only possible with salvaged units and careful fiberglass work. Perhaps a body color refurbish of the chrome units is an acceptable fallback choice, just in case. Incidentally, I think you should also return the door handles to the body color also, but I suspect that you already have decided to do that. I have a Lotus myself and am enjoying your journey and look forward to each new posting. Thanks
On my next video I get into my final decision on the fuel filler flaps and why - stay tuned! You mention the door handles to body color. I have been looking at picture of the Stevens cars that were yellow and most seem to have black handles. I was thinking that is the way they were from the factory. Are you saying the came body color matched?
@@SlippingTime You're right! I must have found the only yellow '89 Esprit on line that had body colored door handles! I personally like the purity of the body color handle better, but it's clearly not original.
Looking at your car the original colour is Black. I would leave the fuel cover as it is, as the original one let in water and damages the fuel tanks. Just paint the chrome.
Since this video footage I got smarter where to find the factory paint code and yes, it is black originally. I suspect the water got in from washing the car and getting in the side duct. Learning lots as I go. 😀
@@salidris6967 I am at a disadvantage as I have no clue on what the original fuel neck pods look like to leak. Sounds like they are not sealed to the outside other than the flap.
@@SlippingTime correct the fuel cover , water gets in through the hinges. The cover has no seal like a car door.. My fuel tanks ate now Alloy £1000 for 2.
YOU SHOULD BE USING THE SMALLEST LIGHT WEIGHT CONTROLLABLE DRILL DEWALT 12V DRILL OR THE SNAPON RED SMALL PRO DRILL WHEN WORKING ON THIS CAR NOT A CORDED CLUMSY DRILL, YOU CAN SLIP EASIER AND SCRATCH THE BADGE PLATE LEAVE THE GAS CAPS ALONE YOU HAVE TO MUCH WORK AHEAD OF YOU THEY LOOK GREAT CHANGE THEM AFTER YOU DRIVE THE CAR AFTER 2 YEARS MAYBE
Hi, regarding powder coating the chassis I would never do that. I have over 30 years professional experiance of corrosion testing powder coating systems. If you coat zinc and get a scratch to the steel the exposed zinc will start to oxidize and save the steel. However the zinc area exposed is very small and will be consumed fast, creeping under the coating which will flake and blister. If not coated all zinc on the construction will be able contribute to the protection and the corrosion load will be spread out on the hole area. You will have adhesion problem if coating with powder due to zinc oxide on surface. Etch treatment is needed which causes problem inside welded joints. Powder coating will make inspection of chassis cracks imposible.
I would clean and leave as is. I very much like you channel and wish you all the best👍
Thanks Johan and so happy you like the channel. So far my research agrees with what you are saying about the galvanized chassis. I plan to use some techniques in cleaning it up and leaving it be. I need to do some test spots and will share the experience when I get to it.
Thanks so much for the feedback and the support!
Whats the condition of the marine plywood? Maybe this opportunity and cut an access door to the front of the motor (like the Ferrari 360). It would make timing belt changes a snap.
Overall it is in good shape. I think the piece is pretty key to the rigidity of the car and am hesitant to cut a hole in it. A good thought though.
100% don't do this. Ferraris are designed this way - Lotus isnt. Depending on the hole you'd not want to make depends on how much weakness you'll introduce but I've done a few belts in my time and never wished to have access thru the body. Belt changes are not too tricky (pannning to do a video on it). If I saw an Esprit with a hole in the ply firewall I'd run a mile.
Jonathan I will welcome your video in doing the cam belt. I have done them in other cars of course, but everyone has its nuances.
@@SlippingTime no worries it wont be for a while as the engine is being rebuilt and I cant see it being re-installed before April 2022. Hardest part is tensioning correctly in my opinion, rest is really straight forward, esp with a lift.
We may be doing ares both at the same time. 😀
I wonder if you could find a fuel filler area from a wreck and glass the whole thing in?. I would start cutting and grinding and see what you have 🙂 On my 94 the bolts and rivets are painted. Not sure if it has been resprayed (I dont think so). Thinking they needed that brace in there to maintain body integrity while moving it around before frame attached?
I definitely think the bracing is helpful in reducing any flex to keep paint from popping off if things contract or expand when moving. I am talking with some auto body guys what they think. I prefer if possible to paint with the hardware off. It just seems so amateur to paint over hardware. For the fuel filler area I don’t want to cut anything until I have the prices I need to reference.
Have the gas cover powder coated? That may be hard to take back to the rectangle flap, but if your taking everything else to original then why not the flap?
Another excellent point Joey. With all the work I am doing what is a little more rather than regret later is on my mind with this one.
Hi, i see your Concern about the original body color. I see on your VIN plate it says A02, which is Black... Get the history of the car from Lotus and discover hov it originaly was build. Keep up the spirit. /Kim
Thanks Kim. I will have to contact Lotus as you say and see what data they have on this car.
I looked at my low mileage 1986 Esprit door area and the bolts are painted as well as the rivets. This might have changed with the later design however.
Good to know. Kevin I can’t recall - is yours original paint?
They're all colour coded.
@@SlippingTime Yes, original paint.
Perhaps I should put them back in for paint then. More decisons. I think based on what you see at minimum I will keep the side skirts on.
I applaud your decision to return the taillight configuration to the original Peter Stevens design. It looks like a lot of effort, but it's period correct and anything else (even the V8 Elise taillights), spoil the integrity of the overall design. Which brings up the question of the fuel fillers. The chrome filler doors are similar to and remind me of a Dodge pickup truck all dolled up. Returning those to original will be a monumental task probably only possible with salvaged units and careful fiberglass work. Perhaps a body color refurbish of the chrome units is an acceptable fallback choice, just in case. Incidentally, I think you should also return the door handles to the body color also, but I suspect that you already have decided to do that.
I have a Lotus myself and am enjoying your journey and look forward to each new posting. Thanks
On my next video I get into my final decision on the fuel filler flaps and why - stay tuned! You mention the door handles to body color. I have been looking at picture of the Stevens cars that were yellow and most seem to have black handles. I was thinking that is the way they were from the factory. Are you saying the came body color matched?
@@SlippingTime You're right! I must have found the only yellow '89 Esprit on line that had body colored door handles! I personally like the purity of the body color handle better, but it's clearly not original.
Thanks for checking Mark. We are all learning together on how these cars came from the factory that is for sure.
Looking at your car the original colour is Black. I would leave the fuel cover as it is, as the original one let in water and damages the fuel tanks. Just paint the chrome.
Since this video footage I got smarter where to find the factory paint code and yes, it is black originally. I suspect the water got in from washing the car and getting in the side duct. Learning lots as I go. 😀
@@SlippingTime not the side ducts but the fuel covers on each side. I know as i have the same car.
@@salidris6967 I am at a disadvantage as I have no clue on what the original fuel neck pods look like to leak. Sounds like they are not sealed to the outside other than the flap.
@@SlippingTime correct the fuel cover , water gets in through the hinges. The cover has no seal like a car door.. My fuel tanks ate now Alloy £1000 for 2.
I wonder what could be done to seal it better around the full neck?
YOU SHOULD BE USING THE SMALLEST LIGHT WEIGHT CONTROLLABLE DRILL DEWALT 12V DRILL OR THE SNAPON RED SMALL PRO DRILL WHEN WORKING ON THIS CAR NOT A CORDED CLUMSY DRILL, YOU CAN SLIP EASIER AND SCRATCH THE BADGE PLATE
LEAVE THE GAS CAPS ALONE YOU HAVE TO MUCH WORK AHEAD OF YOU THEY LOOK GREAT CHANGE THEM AFTER YOU DRIVE THE CAR AFTER 2 YEARS MAYBE