Finally I found a video that tell us to how much lower the voltage will fall at the time it is started. My battery drops down to 4 volts when I try to start it up. But shows 12.5 volts prior. Now i know for sure my battery is bad. Thank you sir for your video!
Thank you, this is exactly what I needed! Your video was well done, thorough, and educational. The part about checking the CCA is something most people skip or aren't aware of.
Howdy. Nice. One may consider fabricating a cigarette lighter adapter for the multimeter. It should be possible to do these measurements sitting in the cabin. For the no load check. Only turn ignition to accessories. No further. Regards.
When measuring a battery with a multimeter, there is no need to first touch the black terminal. I guess you got it confused with when you’re installing the battery.
Thanks! My 12v aux battery shows 10.82v when car is off. After car is on it is 14.70. I am observing P lock error on this car. Not sure if it is because of this.
Even without a load tester, all its required to let battery sit for a day or two after a trickle charge for a day. Test it after charge and again, next morning ( without battery charger). If voltage drops below 12.4 volts or further, it has sulphation built up and will not last.
On top of testing with your bolt meter your battery needs to be load tested, that's the truth, that's the only way to tell if your battery is actually good or if it's insufficient
My car wouldn't start for a while but then I got a jump and it started. Then the next day it wouldn't start. So I unplugged the battery clamps for about a week. Then I connected the clamps back on and my car almost started but couldn't turn over. So my question is, would that be a bad battery or a bad alternator? Thanks!
The only thing "tested" was the alternators capability to charge battery during engine crank. Without a known load of 3 times the ampere hour rating of the battery and measuring voltage after 10 seconds will the battery health be known. If it drops below 9.6 volts (after fully charging battery prior to test) the battery needs to be replaced..
Need a load. TURN ON headlights and MEASURE. Bat voltage. Each cell is about 2.00VDC, A dead cell will give you 10.0VDC or so. Much easier than starting the engine. LOL
great info. Thanks for showing the process step by step. Just wondering why you used the red lead on the ground/negative lead and black lead on the battery. Am I mistaken? I have the exact issues you were describing with my car. Thanks again! this helped immensely.
Good video about the right way to test.... But red first first, even when connecting the battery terminals red goes first and when removing then remove black first.... Current runs from positive to negative, not the other way around
The Voltage looks good but the Battery may be having dead cells which will affect cranking.You need need to do an Amperage test with the Meter inline with the Battery and the Load.
What does it mean if it goes above 14 V the first time I start the engine, and then when I restart the engine, I get a voltage that starts at 12 V, and it gets lower to 10.9 V very quickly, eventually dying on me? Same result before and after I cleaned the alternator with a 4 hour degreaser bath and brush to get all the oil out of it. I checked all the connections as well as cleaning all the connections with Electronic cleaner spray. If I wait about 15 hours, the voltage again starts at 14 V, but when I stop the engine and restart , I again get the battery dash light again and it does the same thing all over again.
First you should be putting the probes on the lead also the battery needs to be fully charged and load test half of the CCA so if you have a 500 cca battery you need to pull 250 amp draw and you need lead adapters for a side terminal battery so you get lead to lead contact .
The battery on my 2018 accord just tested at 11.5 volts with no load and 8 volts with load, that’s obviously bad, it was made on 5/18, so four years is pretty good.
. Negative. Before the test pull the pump fuse. Then crank for 4 secs while measuring the volts. If the volts drop below 10 you need to replace the battery before the cold weather comes. Put the pump fuse back after the test. .
I have had batteries to show 12.8 volts and have no cranking amps so the car would not crank so a load test is the real way to know Batteries can fool you
Voltage doesn’t mean alot the battery needs to be tested with a load tester u still might have 12 volts or 14 if viechle is started but u need to add a load on the battery tester. u didn’t test the battery u tested the alternator get a load tester only about 50 bucks
I guess my battery is dead I can charge it to 12.56 volts with car running for 20 minutes but looses 1/2 a volt with the head lights on for a minute funny how its got enough power to start engine next day at 12 volts though - common sense prevails EG the battery is 6 years old , slightly bulged out one end and the green indicator is non existant so $273 AUD for caa 620 replacement it is.
Walmart used to be a place that I depended upon for batteries; I would volunteer to go from the store to store firing everybody in the automotive section just before Christmas and I would do it for a slap of gum.
Finally I found a video that tell us to how much lower the voltage will fall at the time it is started. My battery drops down to 4 volts when I try to start it up. But shows 12.5 volts prior. Now i know for sure my battery is bad. Thank you sir for your video!
You're welcome! Glad could help Please subscribe like and share and check out our other helpfull videos
Voltage test only go so far , batteries need to be load test to ensure a good battery .
Agree 👍🏾
THANKS...but why do you have to place the negative probe first.
Thank you, this is exactly what I needed! Your video was well done, thorough, and educational. The part about checking the CCA is something most people skip or aren't aware of.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for commenting
Thank you, I knew about checking the voltage on the battery, but didn’t know about checking it when starting.
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your support of our channel, glad could help.. Hope we are able to help you in the future as well.
Howdy. Nice.
One may consider fabricating a cigarette lighter adapter for the multimeter. It should be possible to do these measurements sitting in the cabin. For the no load check. Only turn ignition to accessories. No further.
Regards.
Good ideal
Why the negative first?
Thank you! You saved me a trip to the Toyota Stealer.
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Need a fluke multimeter with a min/max setting for accurate reading
When measuring a battery with a multimeter, there is no need to first touch the black terminal. I guess you got it confused with when you’re installing the battery.
An instrument we use in car industry is Midtronics to test batteries.
Thank you so much! You explained everything well, and seems easy 👍
Your welcome glad could help thanks for commenting. please subscribe like and share and check our my other helpfull videos.
Thanks! My 12v aux battery shows 10.82v when car is off. After car is on it is 14.70. I am observing P lock error on this car. Not sure if it is because of this.
Why negative before positive?
Probes around vibration can be a problem.
Why not clip leads?
You would really either another person to watch voltage drop to 10v or below (usually won't start if
Even without a load tester, all its required to let battery sit for a day or two after a trickle charge for a day. Test it after charge and again, next morning ( without battery charger). If voltage drops below 12.4 volts or further, it has sulphation built up and will not last.
So while cranking as long as it’s above 10 V it’s OK ?
Thanks for your help used your video today, was having a mental lapse thanks for the refresher.
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i have the same model tester lol, but when i test my battery it just shows a 1. & the numbers bounce around strangly.
Sounds like you may need a new tester or test leads. Please subscribe like and share and check out our other helpfull videos
On top of testing with your bolt meter your battery needs to be load tested, that's the truth, that's the only way to tell if your battery is actually good or if it's insufficient
Not accuracy to test crank due to the multimeter too slow response.
No problem if you reverse the leads. It would simply read negative, shuch as -12.9 volts.
My car wouldn't start for a while but then I got a jump and it started. Then the next day it wouldn't start. So I unplugged the battery clamps for about a week. Then I connected the clamps back on and my car almost started but couldn't turn over.
So my question is, would that be a bad battery or a bad alternator?
Thanks!
Check battery cable and terminal for corrosion can cause your problem. please subscribe like and share and check our my other helpfull videos.
Makes not a bit of difference as to which one to hook up first. Plus or negative. It's just current flow through your meter. It cares not a bit .
The only thing "tested" was the alternators capability to charge battery during engine crank. Without a known load of 3 times the ampere hour rating of the battery and measuring voltage after 10 seconds will the battery health be known. If it drops below 9.6 volts (after fully charging battery prior to test) the battery needs to be replaced..
Thank you so much, you explained very details, and very easy to learn. excellent video!!!
Got a 6yr old interstate lead acid battery going 15.2v with the trickle charger.
Very helpful. I didn't know which number on the knob to switch to
Glad it helped
Need a load. TURN ON headlights and MEASURE. Bat voltage. Each cell is about 2.00VDC, A dead cell will give you 10.0VDC or so. Much easier than starting the engine. LOL
Wow..Battery is OK..but what's the scraping sound that engine is generating??🤔
great info. Thanks for showing the process step by step. Just wondering why you used the red lead on the ground/negative lead and black lead on the battery. Am I mistaken? I have the exact issues you were describing with my car. Thanks again! this helped immensely.
Great video! Very helpful 👍💯
Useful video sir 👍 Thanks 🙏
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FFS whats that sound when engine is started?
Good video about the right way to test.... But red first first, even when connecting the battery terminals red goes first and when removing then remove black first.... Current runs from positive to negative, not the other way around
Thanks for helpful tip, please like subscribe and share and check out our other helpfull videos.
The Voltage looks good but the Battery may be having dead cells which will affect cranking.You need need to do an Amperage test with the Meter inline with the Battery and the Load.
Thats pretty helpful info bro. Im.wanting to learn to work a multimeter so this is a start.
Thank you - helped me know the load test importance importance
Glad it helped
Ok but why do you put the negative on fist in everything I do the opposite
Thanks for the refresher course 🙏👍
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So what if the battery voltage test was reading 12.26?
Great video, very helpful. Why do you put the meter on 20v to start?
To be higher then full battery voltage, thank you
Is it ok to load test a battery while it’s still connected to the vehicle
Yes
Thank you so much. A very clear and easy to understand vid..!
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Nice video. If my car won't start can I test the battery or should I boost it and charge it first?
Can test it first to see if it's your problem
What does it mean if it goes above 14 V the first time I start the engine, and then when I restart the engine, I get a voltage that starts at 12 V, and it gets lower to 10.9 V very quickly, eventually dying on me? Same result before and after I cleaned the alternator with a 4 hour degreaser bath and brush to get all the oil out of it. I checked all the connections as well as cleaning all the connections with Electronic cleaner spray. If I wait about 15 hours, the voltage again starts at 14 V, but when I stop the engine and restart , I again get the battery dash light again and it does the same thing all over again.
If you're buying a used battery from someone is there a way to test it without it being in the car without a load tester?
Can take 2 a auto zone will test for free. please subscribe like and share and check our my other helpfull videos.
That was actually helpful. Thank you for this
a good dynamic test with a load.
First you should be putting the probes on the lead also the battery needs to be fully charged and load test half of the CCA so if you have a 500 cca battery you need to pull 250 amp draw and you need lead adapters for a side terminal battery so you get lead to lead contact .
Thanks for that,i needed a reminder😊
Your welcome please subscribe.
Thankyou !, been having issues , now I know bro!👍🏾
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Why negative, THEN positive? U get less spark hooking ñegative last.
It's amps that start the car, not volts. you can have 12 volts, but not enough amps.
Can I use a voltage meter on a battery all the time never take it off....or will that drain the battery
Will drain overtime
Thanks for teaching, 👍👍👍
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Good video and demo!
Sounds like you might be from St. Louis my friend.
Lol thanks for comment
Thank you, I never knew it was this easy!! Great Job!!
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Very cool video .. thanks man
Your welcome
I have them show 12.6 volts and not have no cranking amps Would not even spark
Thanks,great video!
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Good info!
An inexpensive load tester works the best.
Good video… thank you very much
Your welcome
thanks for the video
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The battery on my 2018 accord just tested at 11.5 volts with no load and 8 volts with load, that’s obviously bad, it was made on 5/18, so four years is pretty good.
Great video
.
Negative.
Before the test
pull the pump fuse.
Then crank for 4 secs
while measuring the volts.
If the volts drop below 10
you need to replace the battery
before the cold weather comes.
Put the pump fuse back
after the test.
.
Thanks for info tip
Thank you big dawg.
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Thank you 🙏
Bạn làm rất rễ hiểu. Ắc qui xe nào mà cực bên cạnh vậy
Proper testing, thanks!
I have had batteries to show 12.8 volts and have no cranking amps so the car would not crank so a load test is the real way to know Batteries can fool you
Voltage test alone is not enough
Voltage doesn’t mean alot the battery needs to be tested with a load tester u still might have 12 volts or 14 if viechle is started but u need to add a load on the battery tester. u didn’t test the battery u tested the alternator get a load tester only about 50 bucks
A $69.95 load tester tells the whole story.
Yep I used‘d my mul Ti meter an dough it drop down it good! I tes it it 😂
I guess my battery is dead I can charge it to 12.56 volts with car running for 20 minutes but looses 1/2 a volt with the head lights on for a minute funny how its got enough power to start engine next day at 12 volts though -
common sense prevails EG the battery is 6 years old , slightly bulged out one end and the green indicator is non existant so $273 AUD for caa 620 replacement it is.
Persons need to test the battery under load to determine if the battery is healthy.
My battery has 12.95 but next day drops to 11V , I'm charging it outside the car .
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
Walmart used to be a place that I depended upon for batteries; I would volunteer to go from the store to store firing everybody in the automotive section just before Christmas and I would do it for a slap of gum.
Lol👍🏾👍🏾
Always thought positive first then negative when testing 12v batteries. Reduces possible spark. Just saying...🤔
Thanks
Why wear gloves
If your car starts battery is OK if it don't it ain't.
Engine sounds like shit
That's a noisy ass car for someone giving out engine tips
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Very helpful, thank you!
Glad could help Please subscribe like and share 🙏.
Thanks
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Thanks
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