While I have no experience with this machine, I'm an experienced sewist. In my experience, top-thread pulled to the back indicates the need to increase top-thread tension. I see top thread loops (called eyelashes) even on your sample with finer thread. The finer thread looks better on the bottom because of its size. It would be interesting to see a sample after increasing top-thread tension. Conversely, bobbin thread pulled top side indicates too much tension. We want the "knot" to be sandwiched in the middle of the fabric layers. Alternately, the bobbin thread may simply be too heavy to be pulled to the middle of the sandwiched leather and pulls the finer thread to the back as it has the path of least resistance. It would take sampling to find the sweet spot. I'm impressed with the machine's ability to sew through the layers and the quality of your video - I'll check out your other videos. Thanks
I find that relocating the upper tensioner into the 'bird plate' makes for a better setup. Tensioner in large hole on the bird plate, 'hooks' on tensioner facing downward.
I looked fo 140/22 needles with a flat shank but could not find any. I found them in industrial needles. The shank is round and the needles are longer. Also the point is a triangular point. I used a dremel too to grind the shank and make it flat 1.66 mm and also shortened it. It works perfectly. These are titanium and i was able to sew 1/2 inch leather. Works much better than round point.
Thank you for taking your time to help newbie such as myself, someone in the comments mention tensioning and the word bird plate was used, where is the bird plate, my second question if I WAS WANTING TO SEW A HOLSTER BUT WANTED THE HEAVIER STRING TO BE ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE HOLSTER WOULD i HAVE TO FLIP THE LATHER OVER TO ACHIVE THOSE RESULTS, SORRY FOR THE DUMB QUESTIONS. AND THE TYPING.
Hey Chet... you are welcome! It was sewed like that because it just won't drive the thick thread through. Perhaps with a 160 needle, but they are not in production to my knowledge.
Nylon does not tolerate much sunlight or chlorine exposure. I have lived on boats for several years. The nylon lines exposed to constant sunlight eg. docking lines will show considerable deterioration after one year of sunlight exposure. However, nylon is usually preferred for the purpose do to other properties such as tensile strength and the ability to stretch considerably when under strain thereby reducing shock loads. Polyester resists sun rot fairly well and is frequently used for marine upholstery for that reason. Acrylic thread is impervious to sun rot and chlorine thereby making it ideal for sunshields and sail covers. Brand names are Sunbrella for one example. Sailrite sells the thread and material and some light duty machines. I use polyester for my leatherwork and sail repairs when I was a liveaboard boater. It's not as strong as nylon but lasts longer. Acryic is fairly expensive by comparison and harder to find. (oldsters might recall Orlon which was acrylic fibers )
@@billwessels207 I recently got one of these leather machines and have been experimenting with threads and needles. My wife also lived on a boat and has a commercial machine and a variety of threads, inspecting them with a powerful lope it appeared that the polyester thread of the same strength as the nylon was of a smaller diameter, which would lead me to think one could use the next higher strength poly and end up with a stronger seem using the same size needle. Any thoughts on this?
@@samTollefson I am not certain about that. But I use 138 polyester bonded thread on mine. I understand that woven thread is stronger as well but have not tried it. RUclips probably has plenty of videos but the forums might be better as well as data sheets from the thread suppliers.
I have been able to get my shoe patcher to sew thick leather fairly well with a 140/22 needle and 207 thread both top and bottom. But it took removing the bobbin tension spring from the bobbin carrier and also a careful adjustment of the bird-shaped thing above the tensioners that regulates the thread slack take-up.
@@FlexitoolGuides No worries. Another thing I eventually did was to make a new shorter pressure foot, so that machine could handle almost 1/2 inch thick stuff.
Question. Which thread combinations would you suggest when sewing two 9 ounce vegetable tanned leather, for a PUNCHING BAG? The wear is expected to be heavy. Thank you for sharing this video. It is very useful ✌️
I’ve had this for about a year and sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t. Using 22 needle and 138 poly bonded thread in top and bottom but have noticed the fraying and it ruins my work. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Very informative videos
A lot of the fraying is from the material you are using. If it's coarse leather, it exerts heavy forces on any thread. Thats a decent size needle to be using. Check out my thread/needle pairing video for specific pairings.
Thanks so much for your video. I realize it has been years since you posted the tutorial for the lether stitching machine but hope that you are still available to answer questions about it. I have the machine but the presser foot doesn't come all the way down to the plate to hold the leather in place. Is there a way to adjust the presser foot?
Hi Graham. I recently bought this machine and am having some issues with it sewing 8-10oz leather and was wondering if you could help diagnose the issue. I have set the machine up for thick leather with a 140/22 needle and all other things you mention in the video. When sewing 1 piece of leather the machine works fine and as intended. When combining two sheets together there are times when the upper thread does not loop around the lower thread at the bottom of the stitch. There are also times where the foot does not advance the leather at all and the needle continues to go into the same hole and not form a stitch at all. There are also times when the foot advances forming new holes but without any stitches being made. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi... That is what will happen if the leather is too thick. Unfortunately you will need either a larger needle, or thinner leather, or you can try with a thinner thread. Some of the thinner polyester threads are extremely strong. Rgds!
Unfortunately not. It will go one way only with the heavy thread. You will need to use a light through the other way. Check out my video on needle thread pairing for all that info.
Thanks for the video, I'm hoping you can help me. My machine sees in the opposite direction from everyone else. It must be a set up issue, can you send photos or make a video on how your machine is set up. Please help
I have been having a problem with my machine in that it will not pick up the bobbin thread. I will reconfigure the threading of my bobbin to match your setup. Hopefully this will resolve my problem. Thank you for sharing your videos! My machine has become a kind of folk art sculpture so, it would be nice to actually be able to use it for its intended purpose. 😆
hello. your video was very helpful. I was wondering what needle size I would need if i used a thread diameter of 0.8mm. and what size thread would i use with 140/22?
Sorry for late reply... been off the channel quite a long time. The playlist basically has a video each of the most used aspects of the machine. Check that... there are 13 videos.
I have one of these machines and it’s the biggest piece of garbage I’ve ever owned and I’ve done everything I’ve seen on RUclips to fix it now it just sets in my shop taking up room I was blessed with the money to purchase a Thompson mini walking foot, a consew 227 and a cobra class 4 along with my singer industrial machine I’m still going to work with it once my hatred for calms down some I like that it’s portable and manual so I really want it to work
Hey Jack - I feel your pain. My first machine was from a junk manufacturer, was complete garbage. There can be a huge difference between manufacturers and even between machines; Some sew good and some sew bad. I had a really good manufacturer whose machines I was selling. Unfortunately they went out of business during the pandemic.
Hi I would like to know where to order the part that goes inside the shuttle. Can you tell me who carries it. I entered your page I don't see it please help me with this.
I watched many RUclips videos before buying this machine myself, several folks said they lightly filed the teeth down. If you had some Emory cloth ( heavy duty cloth backed sandpaper) would do the same perhaps easier. I found many parts on my machine that needed sharp edges removed, part of the deal in an inexpensive machine like this and OK with me for the cost savings.
Unfortunately that will not work, because this method relies on driving the lighter/thinner thread through the leather, and picking the heavythread up. In order for the opposite thread setup to work, you would need a much neavier needle.
I'm been making belts for 40 years. Can't say I've ever used different thread guage . Different colours yes but top and bottom . 36 's Gutterman or Oxella every time
Sorry for late reply... been off the channel quite a long time. Thanks so much for that, I really appreciate that! The crazy thing is that is precisely the reason I lost engagement with continuing making these sewing oriented videos. Concise unfortunately doesn't generate viewing hours to achieve revenue from YT. So while the videos get thousands of views they are to the point with no frills, and therefore short! There is a reason people waffle... it's to generate viewing hours to revenue off of ... LOL!
This stitching wouldn't pass QC!! The upper thread should not appear below and the lower thread should not appear above. That upper thread is being pulled all the way through so the stitching is only as strong as the upper thread weight. Rubbish stitch.
Sure! It was never meant to be a production stitch, merely to show it could actually be done, as many channels said it was impossible to do. Hope it is all working good for you!
Sure! It was never meant to be a production stitch, merely to show it could actually be done, as many channels said it was impossible to do. Hope it is all working good for you!
Well done! To Hell with the naysayers. I get your point, AND you explained the utilitarianism of your demonstration-TWICE! This machine wasn’t made for minute precision. If they want that, they need a Pfaff 332, or a Bernina. Again, a Helluva fine job.!
Dude, these machines are junk made by unskilled people and aimed at unskilled hobbyists. Go buy an old SINGER industrial walking foot or a Pfaff, ADLER, NECCHI etc.
I agree some of them are junk - depends on the manufacturer (there are many). First one I had was garbage. But if you find a decent manufacturer they work just great. There is a reason the design hasn't changed in 150 years!
Try changing your thread or your tensions. Cotton threats are the worst with these machines, as they have rough, hand-finished edges, which can easily fray cotton.
thank you four theses useful precisions
While I have no experience with this machine, I'm an experienced sewist. In my experience, top-thread pulled to the back indicates the need to increase top-thread tension. I see top thread loops (called eyelashes) even on your sample with finer thread. The finer thread looks better on the bottom because of its size. It would be interesting to see a sample after increasing top-thread tension. Conversely, bobbin thread pulled top side indicates too much tension. We want the "knot" to be sandwiched in the middle of the fabric layers. Alternately, the bobbin thread may simply be too heavy to be pulled to the middle of the sandwiched leather and pulls the finer thread to the back as it has the path of least resistance. It would take sampling to find the sweet spot. I'm impressed with the machine's ability to sew through the layers and the quality of your video - I'll check out your other videos. Thanks
Excellent points! Thanks for sharing your expertise. I just like to push the machine and share what I have found. Regards!
Yes, that's what I was thinking, I've just had one of these delivered, I'm sure it's going to be fun.
I had been struggling to figure out how to do this for days - thank you very much for posting this!!!
Glad I could help!
Well done! I appreciate your very accurate and exact descriptions. You only use necessary words to tutor. Thanks!
Thanks Paul!
Very informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks! Very informative, I have had issues sewing thicker leather, this could solve my "issues".
Glad it could help!
Thanks for this video. I have been using too heavy top thread.
I find that relocating the upper tensioner into the 'bird plate' makes for a better setup.
Tensioner in large hole on the bird plate, 'hooks' on tensioner facing downward.
Thats a good idea!
I looked fo 140/22 needles with a flat shank but could not find any. I found them in industrial needles. The shank is round and the needles are longer. Also the point is a triangular point. I used a dremel too to grind the shank and make it flat 1.66 mm and also shortened it. It works perfectly. These are titanium and i was able to sew 1/2 inch leather. Works much better than round point.
thank you so much for sharing this, I believe this will solve my problem for sewing thick weightlifting belts.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for taking your time to help newbie such as myself, someone in the comments mention tensioning and the word bird plate was used, where is the bird plate, my second question if I WAS WANTING TO SEW A HOLSTER BUT WANTED THE HEAVIER STRING TO BE ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE HOLSTER WOULD i HAVE TO FLIP THE LATHER OVER TO ACHIVE THOSE RESULTS, SORRY FOR THE DUMB QUESTIONS. AND THE TYPING.
Hey Chet... you are welcome! It was sewed like that because it just won't drive the thick thread through. Perhaps with a 160 needle, but they are not in production to my knowledge.
I don't know what a bird plate is.
So many videos on these machines but I'd love to see one where someone actually makes something on it.
LOL! You are right! That is an excellent project idea.
I use 10 pound test line (fishing line ) on 1/2" tanned leather and military canvas that's exposed to the elements...excellent results
Glad you have found a combo that works for you!
Nylon does not tolerate much sunlight or chlorine exposure. I have lived on boats for several years. The nylon lines exposed to constant sunlight eg. docking lines will show considerable deterioration after one year of sunlight exposure. However, nylon is usually preferred for the purpose do to other properties such as tensile strength and the ability to stretch considerably when under strain thereby reducing shock loads. Polyester resists sun rot fairly well and is frequently used for marine upholstery for that reason. Acrylic thread is impervious to sun rot and chlorine thereby making it ideal for sunshields and sail covers. Brand names are Sunbrella for one example. Sailrite sells the thread and material and some light duty machines. I use polyester for my leatherwork and sail repairs when I was a liveaboard boater. It's not as strong as nylon but lasts longer. Acryic is fairly expensive by comparison and harder to find. (oldsters might recall Orlon which was acrylic fibers
)
@@billwessels207 I recently got one of these leather machines and have been experimenting with threads and needles. My wife also lived on a boat and has a commercial machine and a variety of threads, inspecting them with a powerful lope it appeared that the polyester thread of the same strength as the nylon was of a smaller diameter, which would lead me to think one could use the next higher strength poly and end up with a stronger seem using the same size needle. Any thoughts on this?
@@samTollefson I am not certain about that. But I use 138 polyester bonded thread on mine. I understand that woven thread is stronger as well but have not tried it. RUclips probably has plenty of videos but the forums might be better as well as data sheets from the thread suppliers.
Try 100lb braided fishing line. Tow a truck with it.
Great video!
Thank you Abel!
I have been able to get my shoe patcher to sew thick leather fairly well with a 140/22 needle and 207 thread both top and bottom. But it took removing the bobbin tension spring from the bobbin carrier and also a careful adjustment of the bird-shaped thing above the tensioners that regulates the thread slack take-up.
Excellent bit of info! Thanks for sharing that! Sorry for late reply... been off the channel quite a long time
@@FlexitoolGuides No worries. Another thing I eventually did was to make a new shorter pressure foot, so that machine could handle almost 1/2 inch thick stuff.
@@stewartmarshall4112 Wow! great idea!
Thanks again for your great tutorials. Those 140/22 needles I purchased from you worked a treat.
That's great, Terry! Glad they are working out for you! Regards!
Where can I buy?
Question. Which thread combinations would you suggest when sewing two 9 ounce vegetable tanned leather, for a PUNCHING BAG? The wear is expected to be heavy. Thank you for sharing this video. It is very useful ✌️
Hi Jon... I would use a nylon thread like an M20 / Tex 135 - heavy enough for the punching bag and light enough to fit in readily available needles.
BRILLIANT! 🎉🎉🎉
Thanks!
Thank you for video .. ❤
I’ve had this for about a year and sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t. Using 22 needle and 138 poly bonded thread in top and bottom but have noticed the fraying and it ruins my work. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Very informative videos
A lot of the fraying is from the material you are using. If it's coarse leather, it exerts heavy forces on any thread. Thats a decent size needle to be using. Check out my thread/needle pairing video for specific pairings.
Thanks so much for your video. I realize it has been years since you posted the tutorial for the lether stitching machine but hope that you are still available to answer questions about it. I have the machine but the presser foot doesn't come all the way down to the plate to hold the leather in place. Is there a way to adjust the presser foot?
Yes, you can adjust that part - you can also do things like file the underside. Check my other videos, it's in there somewhere.
Thank you 😊
You are welcome!
Thanks for sharing. Very useful information. Cheers
Glad it was helpful!
I bought this machine is it good and effective
It is not a bad machine. The brakes are terrible on mine, I will be replacing those... actually the stock brakes are worthless. They grab.
@@FlexitoolGuides @FlexitoolGuides thank you
Thanks good demo
You are welcome!
Thanks, these tutorials are very helpful.
Glad you like them!
A very nice video, Sir. Thank you for sharing this.
Glad you enjoyed it, Bill!
@@FlexitoolGuides You have a pleasant speaking voice and you are obviously knowledgeable.
Hi Graham. I recently bought this machine and am having some issues with it sewing 8-10oz leather and was wondering if you could help diagnose the issue. I have set the machine up for thick leather with a 140/22 needle and all other things you mention in the video. When sewing 1 piece of leather the machine works fine and as intended. When combining two sheets together there are times when the upper thread does not loop around the lower thread at the bottom of the stitch. There are also times where the foot does not advance the leather at all and the needle continues to go into the same hole and not form a stitch at all. There are also times when the foot advances forming new holes but without any stitches being made. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi... That is what will happen if the leather is too thick. Unfortunately you will need either a larger needle, or thinner leather, or you can try with a thinner thread. Some of the thinner polyester threads are extremely strong. Rgds!
What about theneedle length? What are these supposed to use?
DPx17 or 135 x 17?
MTx190 or 150SC?
Very informative, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this vidéo, Can i use thread t210 UP and down , and what neddle best for t210
Unfortunately not. It will go one way only with the heavy thread. You will need to use a light through the other way. Check out my video on needle thread pairing for all that info.
@@FlexitoolGuides thanks
Is it possible to use braided wax thread with his machine? Im currently hand stitching leather with .8mm braided wax thread.
Try it, it's the only way to find! Good luck with it!
Thanks for the video, I'm hoping you can help me. My machine sees in the opposite direction from everyone else. It must be a set up issue, can you send photos or make a video on how your machine is set up. Please help
Sorry for late reply... been off the channel quite a long time. The playlist basically has a video each of the most used aspects of the machine.
Brilliant!!
Thanks!
Fiyatı
I have been having a problem with my machine in that it will not pick up the bobbin thread. I will reconfigure the threading of my bobbin to match your setup. Hopefully this will resolve my problem.
Thank you for sharing your videos! My machine has become a kind of folk art sculpture so, it would be nice to actually be able to use it for its intended purpose. 😆
Sounds like shuttle could be incorrectly slotted in... look at my video #6 on that... Regards!
hello. your video was very helpful. I was wondering what needle size I would need if i used a thread diameter of 0.8mm. and what size thread would i use with 140/22?
Sorry for late reply... been off the channel quite a long time. The playlist basically has a video each of the most used aspects of the machine. Check that... there are 13 videos.
Hi how can I get one for this machine I lived in Jamaica wats the cast ,
Sorry, man! No idea!
Thanks, I was wondering can you sew with the same heavy tread as the bobbin is using? As in holster making? Regards from NC
Unfortunately using the same heavier thread leads to fraying and breaking at this thickness of leather. The friction is brutal.
the needle 140/22 for domestic stitching machine are not easy to find
I have one of these machines and it’s the biggest piece of garbage I’ve ever owned and I’ve done everything I’ve seen on RUclips to fix it now it just sets in my shop taking up room I was blessed with the money to purchase a Thompson mini walking foot, a consew 227 and a cobra class 4 along with my singer industrial machine I’m still going to work with it once my hatred for calms down some I like that it’s portable and manual so I really want it to work
Hey Jack - I feel your pain. My first machine was from a junk manufacturer, was complete garbage. There can be a huge difference between manufacturers and even between machines; Some sew good and some sew bad. I had a really good manufacturer whose machines I was selling. Unfortunately they went out of business during the pandemic.
150D .8mm is that possible I’m so confused I don’t know what that thread translates to
Sorry for late reply... not quite sure of your question but please refer to my other video on Needle Thread Pairing (#13)
Try sewing some veg tan 8-9 oz
Sure!
Hi I would like to know where to order the part that goes inside the shuttle. Can you tell me who carries it. I entered your page I don't see it please help me with this.
Check out videos from Mainly Acres
Check out bantamsaddletack.com They have many parts in stock.
Hi, thank you so much! It is very helpful! Is there anyway to avoid the walking foot leaving marks on smooth leather?
I watched many RUclips videos before buying this machine myself, several folks said they lightly filed the teeth down. If you had some Emory cloth ( heavy duty cloth backed sandpaper) would do the same perhaps easier. I found many parts on my machine that needed sharp edges removed, part of the deal in an inexpensive machine like this and OK with me for the cost savings.
@@samTollefson Thank you for your reply! Very helpful!
@@shellysun5348 I have watched a few videos and the best one I saw is to use Plasti Dip and build up a few layers!
@@Wild_Natured_Heart Thank you for your reply!
Can you set up the t270 on the bobbin and t60 on the needle? Would that still work?
Unfortunately that will not work, because this method relies on driving the lighter/thinner thread through the leather, and picking the heavythread up. In order for the opposite thread setup to work, you would need a much neavier needle.
@@FlexitoolGuides so how do I set it up like I'm saying, I got a thicker needle
South African? Where did u get yours?
I was importing and selling them.
Hi my pressure leg or arm doesn't move forward?
Mine either it doesn’t walk anymore how do I fix this?
How i buy one pice
Check out ebay or amzn. Rgds!
So, a year later, how's it going?
All good thanks!
I'm been making belts for 40 years. Can't say I've ever used different thread guage . Different colours yes but top and bottom . 36 's Gutterman or Oxella every time
Do you still have needles available
Sorry, no.
How to buy
The top thread isn't pulling the bottom thread into the leather. Not exactly an ideal stitch. Maybe more tension on the upper stitch?
Sorry for late reply... been off the channel quite a long time. Thanks so much for that, I really appreciate that! The crazy thing is that is precisely the reason I lost engagement with continuing making these sewing oriented videos. Concise unfortunately doesn't generate viewing hours to achieve revenue from YT. So while the videos get thousands of views they are to the point with no frills, and therefore short! There is a reason people waffle... it's to generate viewing hours to revenue off of ... LOL!
Mag cano yan
This stitching wouldn't pass QC!! The upper thread should not appear below and the lower thread should not appear above. That upper thread is being pulled all the way through so the stitching is only as strong as the upper thread weight. Rubbish stitch.
I agree.
Sure! It was never meant to be a production stitch, merely to show it could actually be done, as many channels said it was impossible to do. Hope it is all working good for you!
Sure! It was never meant to be a production stitch, merely to show it could actually be done, as many channels said it was impossible to do. Hope it is all working good for you!
Well done! To Hell with the naysayers. I get your point, AND you explained the utilitarianism of your demonstration-TWICE! This machine wasn’t made for minute precision. If they want that, they need a Pfaff 332, or a Bernina. Again, a Helluva fine job.!
@@jamesdaniel2363 Thanks James!
Dude, these machines are junk made by unskilled people and aimed at unskilled hobbyists. Go buy an old SINGER industrial walking foot or a Pfaff, ADLER, NECCHI etc.
I agree some of them are junk - depends on the manufacturer (there are many). First one I had was garbage. But if you find a decent manufacturer they work just great. There is a reason the design hasn't changed in 150 years!
For heavy Leatherboots i use a 160 Needle..but there is special Leather Needles from Smetz in 120..did not try them..🫡
Good to know!
Why does the thread always break?
Try changing your thread or your tensions. Cotton threats are the worst with these machines, as they have rough, hand-finished edges, which can easily fray cotton.
@@FlexitoolGuides thank you