Hi Eduardo. The position of the film in the camera was not the same as the sticky tape which you used. The film goes between the pressure plate and the two film transporting guidelines (they are polished and located on a top and a bottom of the camera chamber). These guidelines contact film just above the sprocket holes or film perforation. To be able to calibrate the lens properly, one needs to use either ground glass and place it on film transporting guidelines or better borrow a digital Leica. Good luck with the calibration. It would be great to see the performance of this lens with a BW film.
Hi, I have a question concerning the tape: Did it touch the black paint on the sides when calibrating? Only the top and bottom film"Rails"of the M3 should be in contact with what is used as ground glass. If it touches the paint then its closer from the lens than where the film will be. Thus making calibration incorrect. You seem a hair in front of where the film will sit. Before I was using a piece of plastic (like a CD box) sand it with fine grit and cut it so size. Then putting it sanded side toward the lens(after a lot of dusting off). This should give a flatter focus screen. You can also use a reflex focusing screen if you have a camera that have removable ones. if it has micro-prism it can be a big help. As it is usually the size of the hole or smaller you'll have to put it diagonally to again be on the chrome sides where the film sits. tip: A 50mm lens make a great magnifying glass to have a better view of the focus if you don't have one. Hope it helps!
Hi there, I have an eye on this, also a7iii with techart. Are you happy with it sharpness/ color rendition? . Do you have a modern 50?, the fe or zeiss 55? If yes hot it compare if you put it at 1.8,f2? Many thanks
@@charruaporelmundo the color is very similar to other leica lenses. I think it has a cinema type or style look in the images it produces. As for sharpness, yes it will start getting that sharpness you are looking for around the f2 or f2.8. I have owned modern 50mm lenses and I do prefer the ttartisan over all the others.
My guess is that it was already calibrated correctly, I've bought a couple of lenses from tt artisans and 7 artisans, and they've always been bang on. I recommend anyone buying one of these lenses, to shoot a roll first before messing with the calibration.
I tried calibrating my 50mm 1.1 from 7Artisans like you did. And I found it was too inconsistent to be accurate. The thing is, that the scotch tape has to be on the exact distance from the lens as the film's gonna be when the camera is loaded. And at least with my setup I couldn't make that happen since the scotch tape couldn't be pulled straight. It kept being bent and therefore it was impossible to accurately calibrate the lens. What worked for me, and something 7Artisans put on their yt channel was to find a Pole or something thin, a small light should do it too, that was at least 300m away. You then put your lens to infinity and see if the second image of the rangefinder goes past or stops short of the image of the point or pole in the big rangefinder window. I'm not quite sure if I remember correctly, but if it doesn't quite reach the pole, so it stops just to the right of it, you have to adjust the focus heliocoid 1mm counter clockwise and if the pole in the rangefinder patch goes past the one in the actual image then you rotate it 1mm clockwise until it aligns. I'm sorry if I explained it badly, you should rather look it up yourself but this technique worked for me and has worked ever since. I hope this helps!
Eduardo: like I told you in previous ttartisans lens you reviewed, you don't need digital leica to calibrate, you just use one leica lens you trust. Set both lenses to 5m focus, and then put one vertical object exactly 5m away, so on your leica lens focus should be aligned, but see how much is off on ttartisans lens. It took me max 10minutes to calibrate all lenses for 7artisans and ttartisans I have. I use 7artisans 28 1.4 and ttart 35 1.4 on my leica m film cameras, results are really good.
@@Janardandas108 the issue is that when I use the lens with my digital cameras, I can see infinity is actually in proper focus at almost one milimiter before the actual infinity mark, so it doesn't matter if infinity is "in focus" using the rangefinder, because when you take the picture it will be slightly out of focus anyway. :(
@@edpavez yes, but with normal digital camera rangefinder coupling doesn't matter at all, so no matter what you do, if you focus with focus peaking, of course infinity focus is correct. When I got my first lens, I could see immediately, that lens is not calibrated, because 5km away one church went beyond focusing patch in rangefinder. So I corrected like I told you in first post. Just use another leica lens you have and trust.... it's really easy. Trust me :) first calibrate lens 5m away, and they you can check on 2m and 10m... other possibility is, that is something wrong with lens, like some element is not in place.
@@edpavez you know, the same way I calibrated my hexar rf camera, I just used summicron 35 lens I have... I used my leica m7 camera which I know is 100% calibrated and I did it the same way, 5m away I put one object, and when on both cameras that object was aligned, I knew that rangefinder is calibrated. Hexar rf is was little back focusing before.... :)
Edit: I’d be happy to calibrate it for you, if you wanna ship it to CA. I can do it on my M10 and check it with my M2. Calibrating off tape was too difficult, it’s not flat enough and wants to bow inward. It’s possible it was fine from the factory. When I had my 7artisans I just did it with b&w film. Take a test shot, pop the camera off the tripod into a dark bag, snip off the test shots, develop for 5 mins and do a one min fix. Slap the film on a window and look at it with a reversed 50mm lens “loupe”. It took two tries and maybe 1mm of adjustment and it was perfect.
I actually kept a roll of film I accidentally blanked when my developer went off and I was too lazy to do a strip test. Will be perfect for calibration! I might just give this lens a go at some point!
I got the idea to calibrate my 7artisans lens after a while - it was in focus - and I used the "ground glass" method - but it turns out, for some reason it made my lens WORSE, and I think there is something off about this method of calibration - I'm not sure what. I ended up calibrating it with an autofocus camera to get distance, and then using the distance scale to calibrate with the rangefinder instead. And then everything was back in focus! There must be something wrong with the scotch tape method because it made my calibration way worse.
When you used the tape in the back of the camera, it needs to be on the film rails. Some of your tape got stuck to the metal bits in front of the film rails which made it inaccurate.
There’s a chance the lens was not calibrated because you might have placed the tape in front of where the emulsion might usually be. What might help is if you create a tape strip that is at the same thickness as a film roll and wind it to have the correct distance or potentially use film leader and sand it with fine sand paper
¿Qué le sucedió a tu Leica M8? recuerdo que después del costo estratosférico que pedían para repararla decidiste dejarla como estaba e hiciste un video al respecto ¿Aún la conservas? Puede que ya no sea útil para fotografía por lo de la banda magenta que da el sensor pero puede ser útil para calibrar estos objetivos, después de todo lo único que necesitas es una cámara con montura Leica M.
You made me realise, whilst beautiful the result and wonderful the background, its so difficult to use a lens with such a shallow dof. To want exacting precision and calibration with this lens i can imagine itll be soo time consuming...bordering going crazy. Sometimes a type on lens in reality, does not live up to what you imagine to be in practice...thanks for the review. Insightful!
Nice video Ed! Are you sure you checked the original calibration of the lens correctly? I’ve never seen one of these arrive severely out of calibration so just wondering if perhaps your adjustments threw it off.
¿no puedes calibrarlo con una huincha de medir y la escala del lente? yo ocupe ese metodo para limar el adaptador LTM/M y deje el canon 1.2 con su adaptador perfecto!
That was a really interesting idea on how to make a "ground glass" for the back of your M3!! I wish it had worked better for the calibrating, since all I have is an M3 and an M2. I don't foresee ever owning a digital Leica. Still a great review! Hope to be back on Patreon soon :)
After your initial calibration, did infinity mark align with the focus indicator when you focused with rangefinder? If it did, and you still got that much OOF images, then focusing cam should be out of shape.
Image quality when you finally nailed the focus was really good considering the speed and price. Sharpness is really good, color fringing apparent but not terrible. But to be honest, even perfectly calibrated lens of that speed and almost non-existent depth of field just does not compute with rangefinders, or slrs too... I have a hard time every time I use my Nikkor 50 mm f/1.2 (ONLY f/1.2!) - with the F3 split screen I should actually use a magnifying attachement to nail the focus (impossible with something moving faster than a stone). With F5 or D750 I've learned that I have to be just a few micrometers before the left edge of in-focus range... It is simply wasteful to use these super fast lenses on something without EVF and quick focus point enlargement.
at the same time, it's important to note that focusing with rangefinders is extremely easy, compared to SLRs. I have shot at f/1.1 before and nailed focus without a problem. the M3 specially has a big focusing patch! :)
EduardoPavezGoye I guess there is something about M3 that it is so beloved;) I have to admit rangefinders when calibrated really well have an edge here. fortunately to my wallet I'm not a Leica guy. I just don't found it especially enjoyable to shoot without TTL experience (despite that's not really possible to have accurate experience with super speed lenses and most of the focussing screens...)
TBH, quite risky to use big aperture on a rangefinder film camera. Even for f1.2 lens on a SLR film camera, it is easy to be out of focus. but i love your video!
@@edpavez Ah yes. You can't beat that voice. In a similar vein, SAINT CLOUD by Waxahatchee is very good if you haven't gotten around to listening to it yet.
Probably you should've just wasted that one film to proper calibrate it... would have saved you some time :D But anyway nice how you show us how to alternatively calibrate a lens :D
Not really, since the lens-object distance is a but different in both cameras. If you mount both in the same tripod, the distance is not the same. It would be theoretically possible if you mark the spot where the film plane is, remove the lens, mount it in the other camera and place that camera in the mark where the film plane is, without altering the focus. It might be possible that way... but that requires A LOT of work and OI rather just get a digital Leica from a friend and calibrate with that.
EduardoPavezGoye I see what you're saying, but I'm pretty sure it would work if you calibrated it on the canon. The distance between the lens and the film plane or sensor will be the same, as that is part of what the adapter is doing (adjusting for the difference in distance between the lens and the focal plane). If it didn't work, then you couldn't mount any Leica mount lenses on the Canon at all without having to calibrate the lens each time.
EduardoPavezGoye Also, part of your issue may have been if you were measuring the distance from the front of the lens to the object. That is not the distance you would want to calibrate. You need to calibrate from the film plane/sensor to the object. That is why you don't need to recalibrate a lens when mounting on different cameras with an adapter.
Paul Mannone no, that’s not what I mean. If you put a baseplate on the Leica and on the Canon, and use that baseplate on top of a tripod, the distance between object-lens will be different because both cameras have their baseplates in different positions and distance from the object. That’s why the film-distance won’t be the same using a tripod.
EduardoPavezGoye Sure, you may have to move the tripod to get the right distance between the film plane and the object to calibrate it. But then when it's calibrated, it will be calibrated regardless of what camera you put it on. The distance between the back element of the lens and the film or sensor plane is always the same, either natively mounted on a Leica or with an adapter on another camera. And for whatever distance you're focusing at, the distance between the focal plane and the focus point will always be the same. The distance between the lens and the object is irrelevant. Not trying to be a know-it-all, just trying to help.
I'm thinking the first mistake you made was not shooting a roll before you "calibrated" the lens. If you do some research online you would have found lots of people find that this lens is already calibrated out of the box...oops
It’s astounding that everyone seems to be ok with the idea of needing to calibrate their lens on their own. Seems like the money you save buying their lenses you lose in both time and results as it just seems unlikely you will nail it, even if you are competent enough to do it. So ultimately it makes the lens a toy and not a real tool. Like everyone I do wish Leica glass was cheaper but you also do get what you pay for.
Es normal querer ver tu contenido pero no saber ingles? 😅 aunque creo que estoy aprendiendo ingles por tu contenido, no lo sé tal vez solo este tonteando en un rincón de RUclips
No se Eduardo, sentiría mucho que pierdas la objetividad que te ha caracterizado. En un objetivo de otra marca, digamos Sigma,Tamron, Tokina,... ninguno de nosotros tendríamos la mínima tentación de aceptar un objetivo que no puedas usar al sacarlo de la caja. Ya no me refiero a un objetivo de 750$, si no cualquier zoom chusquero 28-80 4-5.6. Lo devolvemos a la tienda sin pensarlo. El responsable de calidad de cualquier marca japonesa se práctica el seppuku antes que aceptar ese “estandar” de calidad.
Pero este es el tema: el fabricante envia el lente con un manual de como hacerlo y una herramienta. Me parece que, objetivamente, está pensado para ser usado en digital. Aún así no logro comprender por qué no los envían ya calibrados.
I just want to start this comment by stating that I do really appreciate your videos and have watched them for years and I really appreciate your attitude and enthusiasm for photography. That said I really find it kind of uncomfortable to watch you do these videos where you’re being used to essentially advertise products for people, presumably in exchange for a lens. I know loads of people on RUclips do it and it’s not unusual, I just sort of hope that you’re not one of them. I know it’s a complex area and you doubtless have different views on the subject but there it is. (Also is the audio really unsynchronised in this episode?)
I thought it might be interesting to try M mount lenses, since they are new and there isn’t much new stuff on film photography. I don’t get paid for this and I give my honest opinion, that’s why I do it. If they would ask me to give a positive review and a link so you can buy the lens and I get a commission out of it, then I would feel uncomfortable... but I don’t think I’m doing anything bad or ill intended by reviewing lenses. :)
The face of Fran when you said 'If I had a digital Leica'... 🤣
She knows the big dream.
Hi Eduardo. The position of the film in the camera was not the same as the sticky tape which you used. The film goes between the pressure plate and the two film transporting guidelines (they are polished and located on a top and a bottom of the camera chamber). These guidelines contact film just above the sprocket holes or film perforation. To be able to calibrate the lens properly, one needs to use either ground glass and place it on film transporting guidelines or better borrow a digital Leica. Good luck with the calibration. It would be great to see the performance of this lens with a BW film.
Hi,
I have a question concerning the tape: Did it touch the black paint on the sides when calibrating? Only the top and bottom film"Rails"of the M3 should be in contact with what is used as ground glass. If it touches the paint then its closer from the lens than where the film will be. Thus making calibration incorrect. You seem a hair in front of where the film will sit. Before I was using a piece of plastic (like a CD box) sand it with fine grit and cut it so size. Then putting it sanded side toward the lens(after a lot of dusting off). This should give a flatter focus screen.
You can also use a reflex focusing screen if you have a camera that have removable ones. if it has micro-prism it can be a big help. As it is usually the size of the hole or smaller you'll have to put it diagonally to again be on the chrome sides where the film sits.
tip: A 50mm lens make a great magnifying glass to have a better view of the focus if you don't have one.
Hope it helps!
I thought the same: That tape is not in the same plane as the film will be when running through...
I suspect the same.
I mounted mine on the Fotodiox Pronto Pro then attached it to my a7riii and now have a fast auto-focusing 50mm f0.95 lens. It's FREAKING AWESOME!
Hi there, I have an eye on this, also a7iii with techart. Are you happy with it sharpness/ color rendition? . Do you have a modern 50?, the fe or zeiss 55? If yes hot it compare if you put it at 1.8,f2? Many thanks
@@charruaporelmundo the color is very similar to other leica lenses. I think it has a cinema type or style look in the images it produces.
As for sharpness, yes it will start getting that sharpness you are looking for around the f2 or f2.8.
I have owned modern 50mm lenses and I do prefer the ttartisan over all the others.
My guess is that it was already calibrated correctly, I've bought a couple of lenses from tt artisans and 7 artisans, and they've always been bang on. I recommend anyone buying one of these lenses, to shoot a roll first before messing with the calibration.
No, it was extremely off when it arrived. By about a meter. My 75 was “almost” calibrated out of the box. But this one was not. :(
I tried calibrating my 50mm 1.1 from 7Artisans like you did. And I found it was too inconsistent to be accurate. The thing is, that the scotch tape has to be on the exact distance from the lens as the film's gonna be when the camera is loaded. And at least with my setup I couldn't make that happen since the scotch tape couldn't be pulled straight. It kept being bent and therefore it was impossible to accurately calibrate the lens.
What worked for me, and something 7Artisans put on their yt channel was to find a Pole or something thin, a small light should do it too, that was at least 300m away. You then put your lens to infinity and see if the second image of the rangefinder goes past or stops short of the image of the point or pole in the big rangefinder window. I'm not quite sure if I remember correctly, but if it doesn't quite reach the pole, so it stops just to the right of it, you have to adjust the focus heliocoid 1mm counter clockwise and if the pole in the rangefinder patch goes past the one in the actual image then you rotate it 1mm clockwise until it aligns.
I'm sorry if I explained it badly, you should rather look it up yourself but this technique worked for me and has worked ever since. I hope this helps!
Eduardo: like I told you in previous ttartisans lens you reviewed, you don't need digital leica to calibrate, you just use one leica lens you trust. Set both lenses to 5m focus, and then put one vertical object exactly 5m away, so on your leica lens focus should be aligned, but see how much is off on ttartisans lens. It took me max 10minutes to calibrate all lenses for 7artisans and ttartisans I have. I use 7artisans 28 1.4 and ttart 35 1.4 on my leica m film cameras, results are really good.
I'll try that. Thanks! :D
@@edpavez 👍after you are finished just check infinity focus on some very distant object.
@@Janardandas108 the issue is that when I use the lens with my digital cameras, I can see infinity is actually in proper focus at almost one milimiter before the actual infinity mark, so it doesn't matter if infinity is "in focus" using the rangefinder, because when you take the picture it will be slightly out of focus anyway. :(
@@edpavez yes, but with normal digital camera rangefinder coupling doesn't matter at all, so no matter what you do, if you focus with focus peaking, of course infinity focus is correct. When I got my first lens, I could see immediately, that lens is not calibrated, because 5km away one church went beyond focusing patch in rangefinder. So I corrected like I told you in first post. Just use another leica lens you have and trust.... it's really easy. Trust me :) first calibrate lens 5m away, and they you can check on 2m and 10m... other possibility is, that is something wrong with lens, like some element is not in place.
@@edpavez you know, the same way I calibrated my hexar rf camera, I just used summicron 35 lens I have... I used my leica m7 camera which I know is 100% calibrated and I did it the same way, 5m away I put one object, and when on both cameras that object was aligned, I knew that rangefinder is calibrated. Hexar rf is was little back focusing before.... :)
Edit: I’d be happy to calibrate it for you, if you wanna ship it to CA. I can do it on my M10 and check it with my M2.
Calibrating off tape was too difficult, it’s not flat enough and wants to bow inward. It’s possible it was fine from the factory. When I had my 7artisans I just did it with b&w film. Take a test shot, pop the camera off the tripod into a dark bag, snip off the test shots, develop for 5 mins and do a one min fix. Slap the film on a window and look at it with a reversed 50mm lens “loupe”. It took two tries and maybe 1mm of adjustment and it was perfect.
You can also try to calibrate it to infinity.
I actually kept a roll of film I accidentally blanked when my developer went off and I was too lazy to do a strip test. Will be perfect for calibration! I might just give this lens a go at some point!
that is actually a great idea
@@edpavez RIP photos tho and film waste 😂 you could bulk load a short roll and blank that if you don’t have a blank lying around already!
I got the idea to calibrate my 7artisans lens after a while - it was in focus - and I used the "ground glass" method - but it turns out, for some reason it made my lens WORSE, and I think there is something off about this method of calibration - I'm not sure what. I ended up calibrating it with an autofocus camera to get distance, and then using the distance scale to calibrate with the rangefinder instead. And then everything was back in focus! There must be something wrong with the scotch tape method because it made my calibration way worse.
When you used the tape in the back of the camera, it needs to be on the film rails. Some of your tape got stuck to the metal bits in front of the film rails which made it inaccurate.
There’s a chance the lens was not calibrated because you might have placed the tape in front of where the emulsion might usually be. What might help is if you create a tape strip that is at the same thickness as a film roll and wind it to have the correct distance or potentially use film leader and sand it with fine sand paper
yeah, the tape was at the wrong distance to the rear element, thats why everything is about 10 cm front focused.
¿Qué le sucedió a tu Leica M8? recuerdo que después del costo estratosférico que pedían para repararla decidiste dejarla como estaba e hiciste un video al respecto ¿Aún la conservas? Puede que ya no sea útil para fotografía por lo de la banda magenta que da el sensor pero puede ser útil para calibrar estos objetivos, después de todo lo único que necesitas es una cámara con montura Leica M.
la vendí hace año y medio.
I've calibrated lenses like that before.
You must have the calibration measure horizontal to the film plane.
Sticking it on the floor is not ok.
You made me realise, whilst beautiful the result and wonderful the background, its so difficult to use a lens with such a shallow dof. To want exacting precision and calibration with this lens i can imagine itll be soo time consuming...bordering going crazy. Sometimes a type on lens in reality, does not live up to what you imagine to be in practice...thanks for the review. Insightful!
I feel like an a7iii with tech art pro adaptor will give this lens semi face detect autofocus. Should work really well!
Nice video Ed! Are you sure you checked the original calibration of the lens correctly? I’ve never seen one of these arrive severely out of calibration so just wondering if perhaps your adjustments threw it off.
yes, I am sure.
¿no puedes calibrarlo con una huincha de medir y la escala del lente? yo ocupe ese metodo para limar el adaptador LTM/M y deje el canon 1.2 con su adaptador perfecto!
no. precisamente lo que viene descalibrado es la escala del lente.
@@edpavez ufff! es mucho mas complicado entonces. Ojala alguien encuentre una solución mas fácil que conseguir una cámara digital. Saludos!
That was a really interesting idea on how to make a "ground glass" for the back of your M3!! I wish it had worked better for the calibrating, since all I have is an M3 and an M2. I don't foresee ever owning a digital Leica. Still a great review! Hope to be back on Patreon soon :)
After your initial calibration, did infinity mark align with the focus indicator when you focused with rangefinder? If it did, and you still got that much OOF images, then focusing cam should be out of shape.
Nah, it seems like I messed up using tape. It needs to be calibrated using a digital camera. My M3 is perfectly aligned.
@@edpavez Um, no, I meant the cam of the lens, not the camera.
Great vid! Are you still bulk loading film? Also have you ever tried bulk loading 120?
Hi, Ed! Didn't you have a Leica M8? I was expecting to see you trying to calibrate the lens on your Leica M8.
I no longer have my Leica M8. I sold it over a year and a half ago.
So no recommendation for film photographers, solely on calibration?
What's the brand or name of those vinyl crates in the back? They look super nice.
Cheers from Germany
It's a storage cube from simplewoodgoods :)
@@edpavez thanks for the quick response and keep up the great videos :)
Image quality when you finally nailed the focus was really good considering the speed and price. Sharpness is really good, color fringing apparent but not terrible. But to be honest, even perfectly calibrated lens of that speed and almost non-existent depth of field just does not compute with rangefinders, or slrs too... I have a hard time every time I use my Nikkor 50 mm f/1.2 (ONLY f/1.2!) - with the F3 split screen I should actually use a magnifying attachement to nail the focus (impossible with something moving faster than a stone). With F5 or D750 I've learned that I have to be just a few micrometers before the left edge of in-focus range... It is simply wasteful to use these super fast lenses on something without EVF and quick focus point enlargement.
at the same time, it's important to note that focusing with rangefinders is extremely easy, compared to SLRs. I have shot at f/1.1 before and nailed focus without a problem. the M3 specially has a big focusing patch! :)
EduardoPavezGoye I guess there is something about M3 that it is so beloved;) I have to admit rangefinders when calibrated really well have an edge here. fortunately to my wallet I'm not a Leica guy. I just don't found it especially enjoyable to shoot without TTL experience (despite that's not really possible to have accurate experience with super speed lenses and most of the focussing screens...)
one thing that i noticed with mine is the extrem vignette this lense has, wich is kinda lost when using it on apsc
Can you tell me what lamp that is in your background? the black and gold one with articulating arm. Thanks!
it's an Ikea Ranarp. :)
TBH, quite risky to use big aperture on a rangefinder film camera. Even for f1.2 lens on a SLR film camera, it is easy to be out of focus.
but i love your video!
In my experience, rangefinders are waaay easier to focus at super wide apertures. :)
What's the record on display? Love the apartment.
That's "Bark your head off, dog" by Hop Along.
@@edpavez Ah yes. You can't beat that voice. In a similar vein, SAINT CLOUD by Waxahatchee is very good if you haven't gotten around to listening to it yet.
Using tape to calibrate is not the best way to do it, I use a focusing screen from a Nikon f3 and a loop to check focus
I don't have a focusing screen, sadly.
@@edpavez it's all good man, I'm just glad you made the best of it, You da bomb like that, love your stuff
@@datadinkusmc001 Thanks, man
TTartisans y 7artisans son la misma marca? Saludos Ed y Fran, un abrazo desde Chile!!
Creo que sí. Al menos las cajas y manuales son los mismos.
@@edpavez okale, gracias compa por la respuesta, me tincan muchos los 7 artisans
NO LO SON!!! TT Artisans son una compañía completamente distinta!
@@FelipeFigueroaG o quizás sea una marca más "premium", por así decirlo, dentro de la misma marca, vaya a saber uno
Son hechos en la misma fábrica pero de adentro son diseñados por différentes compañías
Could have leant you my M262!
the dj kaled really caught me off guard XD
Am I going crazy or is the audio out of sync at the beginning?
oh, it might be. I edited it using bluetooth headphones so I edit everything out of sync. maybe I messed it up!
@@edpavez with Bluetooth headphones! Crazy... Lol
sick Joilette shirt
que alta es Fran!
Calibration of this lens is a deal breaker
maybe the lens was calibrated and you un-calibrated the lens by adjusting the focus.
No. It was off by almost a meter when I got it.
Probably you should've just wasted that one film to proper calibrate it... would have saved you some time :D
But anyway nice how you show us how to alternatively calibrate a lens :D
Is there no way to calibrate the lens while using a crop sensor camera like you're Canon?
Not really, since the lens-object distance is a but different in both cameras. If you mount both in the same tripod, the distance is not the same.
It would be theoretically possible if you mark the spot where the film plane is, remove the lens, mount it in the other camera and place that camera in the mark where the film plane is, without altering the focus. It might be possible that way... but that requires A LOT of work and OI rather just get a digital Leica from a friend and calibrate with that.
EduardoPavezGoye I see what you're saying, but I'm pretty sure it would work if you calibrated it on the canon. The distance between the lens and the film plane or sensor will be the same, as that is part of what the adapter is doing (adjusting for the difference in distance between the lens and the focal plane). If it didn't work, then you couldn't mount any Leica mount lenses on the Canon at all without having to calibrate the lens each time.
EduardoPavezGoye Also, part of your issue may have been if you were measuring the distance from the front of the lens to the object. That is not the distance you would want to calibrate. You need to calibrate from the film plane/sensor to the object. That is why you don't need to recalibrate a lens when mounting on different cameras with an adapter.
Paul Mannone no, that’s not what I mean. If you put a baseplate on the Leica and on the Canon, and use that baseplate on top of a tripod, the distance between object-lens will be different because both cameras have their baseplates in different positions and distance from the object. That’s why the film-distance won’t be the same using a tripod.
EduardoPavezGoye Sure, you may have to move the tripod to get the right distance between the film plane and the object to calibrate it. But then when it's calibrated, it will be calibrated regardless of what camera you put it on. The distance between the back element of the lens and the film or sensor plane is always the same, either natively mounted on a Leica or with an adapter on another camera. And for whatever distance you're focusing at, the distance between the focal plane and the focus point will always be the same. The distance between the lens and the object is irrelevant.
Not trying to be a know-it-all, just trying to help.
Any Sony user try did with techart?, it does well?, there are some sharpness there? Gracias
I'm thinking the first mistake you made was not shooting a roll before you "calibrated" the lens. If you do some research online you would have found lots of people find that this lens is already calibrated out of the box...oops
I used my 75 out of the box and it was off by a little margine. My 50 was extremely out of focus out of the box.
Las fotos del rollo salieron rebien tienen muchísimo cache de todos modos
Unsolved Rubik's cube, that's frustrating. :P
It’s Fran’s cube. She solves it and then scrambles it back, to place it unsolved on the shelf. :)
@@edpavez Chaotic mind she has. :D
It’s astounding that everyone seems to be ok with the idea of needing to calibrate their lens on their own. Seems like the money you save buying their lenses you lose in both time and results as it just seems unlikely you will nail it, even if you are competent enough to do it. So ultimately it makes the lens a toy and not a real tool. Like everyone I do wish Leica glass was cheaper but you also do get what you pay for.
Great lens but so heavy
What happened to your m8?
I sold it over a year ago.
@@edpavez Bad timing unfortunately who would have guessed that uncalibrated ttartisan lenses would start raining over you 😂
Creo que se me descalibró la pantalla XD
Es normal querer ver tu contenido pero no saber ingles? 😅 aunque creo que estoy aprendiendo ingles por tu contenido, no lo sé tal vez solo este tonteando en un rincón de RUclips
Me encantaría tener el tiempo de subtitular mis videos, como antes. Muchas gracias por verlo de todos modos!
わがままボディ 😂
ㅎㅎㅎ
No se Eduardo, sentiría mucho que pierdas la objetividad que te ha caracterizado.
En un objetivo de otra marca, digamos Sigma,Tamron, Tokina,... ninguno de nosotros tendríamos la mínima tentación de aceptar un objetivo que no puedas usar al sacarlo de la caja. Ya no me refiero a un objetivo de 750$, si no cualquier zoom chusquero 28-80 4-5.6. Lo devolvemos a la tienda sin pensarlo.
El responsable de calidad de cualquier marca japonesa se práctica el seppuku antes que aceptar ese “estandar” de calidad.
Pero este es el tema: el fabricante envia el lente con un manual de como hacerlo y una herramienta. Me parece que, objetivamente, está pensado para ser usado en digital.
Aún así no logro comprender por qué no los envían ya calibrados.
「わがままボディ」
funny
The need for calibration is a deal breaker for me....
The lens was already calibrated and you messed it up lol
No, it was off by at least a meter...
spending all that time to calibrate the lens really just takes the whole fun of photography away...pity
Your too far away for calibration.
Not at all. I was at the distance recommended by the manufacturer.
I just want to start this comment by stating that I do really appreciate your videos and have watched them for years and I really appreciate your attitude and enthusiasm for photography. That said I really find it kind of uncomfortable to watch you do these videos where you’re being used to essentially advertise products for people, presumably in exchange for a lens. I know loads of people on RUclips do it and it’s not unusual, I just sort of hope that you’re not one of them. I know it’s a complex area and you doubtless have different views on the subject but there it is. (Also is the audio really unsynchronised in this episode?)
I thought it might be interesting to try M mount lenses, since they are new and there isn’t much new stuff on film photography. I don’t get paid for this and I give my honest opinion, that’s why I do it. If they would ask me to give a positive review and a link so you can buy the lens and I get a commission out of it, then I would feel uncomfortable... but I don’t think I’m doing anything bad or ill intended by reviewing lenses. :)
Fartisans