You did such a good job on this lighting & all I was really hoping you had more videos & tips for a 4.0 in frame overhaul. Regardless still grateful for this one!.
That's very kind of you, That motor had a lot of miles on it when I did this but it ran fine, I pulled the head off and took it to a shop and for a $190. They redid all the valves and guides. And while the top and bottom were off.I pulled the pistons and put new rings on each and honed the cylinders. I think I put another 70,000 miles on it since that. Internal face lift.
What a great simple technique. Right after watching this I have to remove my main bearings and redo the crank. I will probably use this technique. Thanks. I love simple and stupid.
this is awesome, when i do this i’ll probably use a plastic screw to reduce the risk of it scratching anything as it’s rotated. there’s no bad luck like mechanic luck… lol
I did this in my civic, needed to change piston rings,(stock engine). I cleaned oil off the bolts , mark bolts with paint, honed cylinders and replaced rings. Bearings were put back in original position, bolts in hole it came out, and torque back to paint line. 10k miles and no problems( stock engine).
That's awesome! A lot of people think I'm doing this after the motor blows, but like you we did it as preventive maintenance oh, I put another 50,000 miles on my Jeep since then, I did the rebuild at 250,000 still going strong.
A lot of Hondas manufacturing is in Ohio actually lmao they have two main plants along with countless subsidiary companies that specialize in the production of different shit for them. I was a machinist for the subsidiary that they used to make their gears for like 5 years and currently im maintenance/ engineer at the subsidiary they use to make all the rails for their seats . Working towards an engineer spot at their main facility in Marysville. They also use the company yutaka In Ohio for their exhausts
Anytime I buy other than American. It's always a Honda, even an old one. I sold my late 80's Civic, running strong at 248K miles. After having it many years. It took the guys teenage son all of 6 days to burn out the clutch.
This is such a simple, yet clever solution. I might need to change bearings on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD - I'm going to see if I can use this little trick!
O yeah...You can do it. Do it before the crank gets marred up. This was a standard fix years ago. My factory AMC service manual tells you step by step how to even do this.
That’s the same thing I’m on ‘95 Tahoe it’s making that little ticking noise it does that raaaaa noise and then it shuts off so my suggestion it might be bearings because Ain’t the crankshaft because the Crank what if seize the motor
This is scary as fuck for someone who has never done anything like this before. But your video gives me some confidence that it can be done. I hope I don't fuck up my engine.
Brilliant. Ask an everyday mechanic if its possible, and they will say "no; you must remove the crankshaft". Ask a real mechanic , AKA a bush mechanic , and they will tell you its possible if you put your mind to it.
it's not the correct way to do it , simple as that . A good mechanic will never do this unless it's your own car and you don't care about the end result
It also helps to clean the crankshaft first, just to be sure no metal shavings, dirt, or debris of any sort is in between the bearings and crankshaft. It’ll sucking doing it all over again in 10,000 mile or less, except the second time you’ll be getting the engine re-honed, new crankshaft, and possibly pistons more than likely. Awesome video though, especially with this particular vehicle.
@@maurizioalfieri602 If your bearings wear it'll leave metal shaving. In reality they just end up back in your oil pan, too heavy to be picked up by the pump. If they don't stop there.. We just hope for the love of god they don't make it to the oil pump. In reality if you just blow some compressed air through the ports you'll clean anything out big enough to do damage.
@@zacharyvivado5088 I pull the heads and oil pan off and clean the entire engine, the pre-lube w/assembly lube before putting back together. When I finish, before starting the engine I fill with oil to the proper amount but don’t put the filter or spark plugs in yes and turn the engine over like you’re starting it until oil start coming out of where the oil filter goes. Then put your filter on and plugs in and you’re good to go. The last part is just so you don’t dry start after fully cleaning the engine out.
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus with 3.0 ohv. I found it easier to take a thin long flat head screwdriver (3mm wide) and lightly tap the old bearing until enough of the other side of the bearing was showing. Some people use a wooden popsicle stick to push out the old bearings, basically any thin piece of material softer than the crankshaft metal could be used, though stiff enough to hold it's shape while hammered lightly. After that I was able to get some of the old bearings out just by rubbing it with my thumb, sometimes turning the crankshaft would turn the bearing and that helped getting it out. Some people use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull on the part of the bearing left showing after tapping them with the screwdriver. Putting in the new bearings was easier, for almost all the bearings I was able to push them in nearly halfway with my thumb then I used the wooden end of a rubber mallet to tap them in all the way.
That's a great idea, that would have worked here as well, this is how my grandfather taught me to do it on tractors but I like your style. Thanks for the comment.
@@great4ever845 Until the bearings wear down. There may be issues regarding the clearance between the crankshaft and the bearings. The standard approach when it comes to replacing the crankshaft bearings is to remove the crankshaft and measure the mains, if the mains are within spec then use standard thickness bearings. IF the crankshaft mains are worn down, then all the mains are ground down and thicker non standard bearings are used. By taking the shortcut in the video we may be installing standard thickness bearings on a crankshaft that may be worn down, so the problem may go away temporarily.
@@johng.3740But you can still check clearance with plastigage when dry before lubing and torquing. It's only when rolling one in and one out at the same time that the clearance check is often missed. Bolts should be replaced too as modern TTY types are used now.
@@MiracleMitch Thanks for the advice, the Haynes Manual does recommend using plastigage on the crankshaft caps to determine clearance, now that I looked at it, this can be done without removing the crankshaft. I have an OHV Vulcan V6 so I can reuse the crankshaft bolts. I've been driving the vehicle for over a year and the low oil pressure light rarely comes on, I still use slightly thicker oil than that recommended by Haynes. Despite all that the engine works well.
Going to a&p school in the 80s, I was driving a 76 cougar to school 28 miles each way 5 days a week.I started making a small knocking sound.My father told me to pull across a low spot and pull the pan. Rods were easy, the main bearings I couldn't get to turn out.Asking the master
Did you try using a small thin flat head screwdriver to get the bearing started out? Another person used a wooden popsicle stick to get the bearing started out, some people using a flat thin piece of plastic. It helps if all crankshaft bearing caps are loose, it reduces the tightness of the bearing. Once you get the bearing part of the way out you can use needle nose pliers to pull them out all the way
I did this in my 2.0 vw aba engine. 2 problems. 1 is my number 3 main is a 1 piece main bearing and Thrust bearing Saddle. Can't rotate because No oil hole in Crank. 2 is my 1 and 5 main bearing cap bolts heads are right on side covers. So I had to grind a 17 mm socket to get off. All were Std size bearings. Also if your Crank journals are Not round you May Not be able to Roll in a new cap! It's better to take engine out if can!
Nice tip, but surely if you have the block out its better to pull the crank, polish off any journal debris with some 1000 wet and dry, blow out all the holes and fit new bearings to mains and big ends
Absolutely I agree, most people don't tear motor down unless something catastrophic has happened, this is just a maintenance operation to give you more time. I've already put on another 60,000 miles since that maintenance.
@@azdakrowflyz5963OLA. Seu comentário é hilariante no que se refere a "já fiz 60.000 km" é Argumento de quem não sabe o que faz, porque o faz e se tiver responsabilidade pode até perdê o sono. ABRAÇOS
Do you put a oversized bearing or just stock one? Would new bearing help with crankshaft walking? Or is that something else on a 350v8.. thanks great video
You want to make sure you put the same size back in, your crank may have been ground in the past which means it's a different size bearing now, remove the old one then go by your new one the same size. Re: crankwalk, one of the bearings is different it will control the crank from moving front to rear. I think that's what you mean when you say crankwalk.
excellent idea but try using extremely hard plastic plugs of some sort instead of a screw.....cranks are generally really hard and tough but if you break off a piece of any size whether it's crank material or screw material, you don't wanna do that.
I hope u used some assemble lubricant. I'm about to try this in my 318. I don't feel like pulling the motor so it worth a shot. If it goes wrong I just get ti drive my challenger more & finish the 383 for the truck lol.
I'm sure you'll do a great job, I also ran a hone through the cylinders and changes the Rings and rebuilt the head while it was all off. It's been about a year now and it's still running stronger than ever.
My car has a knocking sound but I know my motor is healthy. I caught it early and it only knocks when I rev it. at idle you would think it’s a normal engine but I think my rod bearings are bad and I’ve seen people drop oil pan and replace them after sanding down the journals. Am I able to gain access to what you have here in this video from under my car ?
If you can pull off your oil pan I would think you could, mine is a jeep wrangler and none of the suspension was in the way, I wouldn't sand any of the journals or the throws on the crankshaft, even if it looks a little grooved, unless of course the lead on the bearings is completely gone and it's down to the metal on the bearing, if that is the case then you did not catch it in time. If when you pull the bearings out you see lead and the color of copper you should be good just change them out throw it back together. I wish you the best of luck.
@@samjhoseph8089 nope engine needed rebuilding you can’t just snap on new rod bearings and call it a day. My car has a new engine now runs amazing I swapped it myself in my garage. Bought it off a jdm site for 1600$ and did the swap myself
Wondering if I can repair a hydro locked engine using this method, I mean removing oil pan then removing all bearing caps on all 6 pistons so the engine can be rotated again, in my case it is a 2015 Chrysler Town and Country which engine wont move, i dont know how much damage I have but the reason for doing it this way is so I do not have to remove engine with transmission attached; if i manage to rotate the crankshaft I can unbolt the 4 bolts for the torque converter and then extract the engine leaving the transmission in place
how did you know you needed to redo the bearings? With cars becoming more expensive anything we can do to keep the old ones on a little while longer helps.
If you want to use plastic gauge, then that's an entirely different kind of a rebuild, this is a quick honing of the cylinder, rebuild the head, rering the Pistons, and change the bearings on the throes and the mains. This is a straight 6 on a 94 Jeep Wrangler, my grandfather taught me how to do this on Old tractors,
This works great, the mains came out and new ones back in easy. With the exception of the main thrust bearing (center most). I cannot get the upper half of main thrust bearing to go back in. I've checked clearances on the sides and they are ok. (looking for any points that might be causing an interference fit). I went so far as to cut a short piece out of the old main to insure alignment (I tapped this in with a brass punch), then placed the upper thrust bearing on the crank as described in the video. When I rotate the crank, the cotter pin tries to ride underneath the main thrust bearing upper half. Frustrating... Continuing to try this over and over is the defn of insanity. Has any one done this successfully? I realize this is a very tight fit. I tried loosening the other main caps to see if I could get more clearance. Worse case, can I remove the crank with the engine still the truck?
I had to do this with oversized bearing for my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 I had a knock and now it’s not as noises but I can still hear it. Will it slowly go away as the oil lubricates it? I know for sure it was the bearings causing the knock
No, it will not go away. The oil will do all its going to do in about 2 seconds after the engine is started. Was the rod loose when you took it apart? Was the crank journal surface damaged?
@@MrTexasdieselguy my rod bearing are worn because I had a leak that I didn’t notice I tried going oversized but I’m just gonna sell it for parts at this point
Okay the book says the thrust washers must be installed in the correct journal clean the back sides of the lower main bearing inserts and lay them in the corresponding location in the main bearing cap make sure the tab on the bearing insert fits the recess in the block or the main bearing cap the upper bearings with the oil holes are installed into the engine block while the lower bearings without the holes are installed in the Caps or bed plate. I'm changing the bearings and I want to understand, I will remove the bearings with the screw, and the other bearing goes into the cap?
That sounds correct, make sure you're observing the old one when it comes out and put the new one in exactly the same. Mine was a straight six 4.0 out of a Jeep Wrangler,
Mine spun a rod bearing I ordered stock bearings for it and it’s not as loose but it’s still loose enough too make slight movements up and down could my crank shaft just be too worn down from it running with that knock like that ran for like 10mins pulling into the drive way back the oil was low when I got the car
That's a great question, there is a tolerance for some movement but you need to use something called a plastic gauge to squeeze in side Your Rod and the throw on the crank, and then you pull it back out and measure it with a micrometer and see if it's within the tolerance, if it's not within the tolerance then I would have the crank ground, and they do that in 10,000th increments (.010) and then you buy the bearing to make up for that difference.
Damn! I hung a hard left turn in my Ford Focus RS and immediately heard a slight rod knock but only between 2000-3000rpm and luckily I was only 1 mile from home. These motors are a nightmare to pull out, so I’m wondering if I could do this in the car. 🤔 Just replace the rod bearings and main bearings and use emery cloth to polish out any scoring. I don’t think it got much, if any, damage.
my 99' f150 v6 4.2L had something shoot through the bottom oil pan...everybody says need another used engine put in, but maybe after seeing this video just need to new pan and bearing>?
I guess most engines have 5 bearings. I understand, how you change three in the middle. But how do you change the two bearings in front and in the back?
This is a 4.0 straight 6 out of a 1995 Jeep Wrangler, it's been so long since I've done it that I don't recall the front or rear one being very difficult at all, there's a bearing in the center that has sides that come up, I presume that's the thrust bearing, changing these bearings was the easiest part of the whole job, I pulled the Pistons and the head, a shop charged me $195 to remichine the head like new, I put new rings on the Pistons and honed the cylinders, and while it was a part I went ahead and changed the timing chain. This was at least 50,000 miles ago and I've driven all over the western United States since. Sorry don't think I'm much help here
I believe you would have to have your crank ground, and I believe they do that in 10,000th increments, (.010) I did not have my crank ground so I put stock bearings back in, I've probably put another 50,000 miles on it since, and it's running great has more power and doesn't stink. I also pulled the head off and had all the valves reground new valve guides and he flattened the head, that was only $190. Mine is a straight 6, and I pulled the Pistons out and put new rings on them.
@@azdakrowflyz5963 thank you for the response. Not looking to go crazy on this repair just need a second vehicle. So I’ll order the stock size because that makes sense when you read it but not when you say it in your head 🤦🏻♂️
i would have used a stirdy peice of plastic because of scratcing the seats in there also sinds youre in there you should use a small brush and clean the oil passages
Is it normal that one bearing is a different size to the rest? My bearings on my 3.8L jku has three of the same but it says the last is a different size, this happens to be the one that’s worn and spun. Is this because there was a thin bearing on it??
Wow that's a good question, I'm not completely familiar with that motor, Have you already bought the new bearings? And if so have you checked if there's a different one?
So far 25,000 miles, I've taken it to Moab, Swamp lake, dusy Ershim trail, all very difficult 4x trails, I did the work at 245,000 miles and the exhaust used to stink, now it runs strong and doesn't choke me out.
@@azdakrowflyz5963 I have a 2004 gmc 3500 6.0 with the lq4 engine. About 2 years ago my oil pressure dropped to 5 psi on start up and went up to around 20 psi as it’s revved up. This is a carpet cleaning van and runs off a pto. So it runs at a high idle for about an hour at a time equivalent to 50mph. The engine still has run smooth for the last 2 years. The the other day I noticed when I came out, the lifters were ticking. Went away as I got to my next job and the same tick after the next job. I put some Lucas in it and the pressure dropped to 0! So I removed the oil pan and found the pick up tube o ring was flattened and dry rotted. I thought that would solve my problem. I was wrong. So I installed a new oil pump. Pressure came back to the 25 psi but soon as it got to operating temp. It went back to 0 again. Due to covid I don’t have the funds for a new engine. I’m hoping changing the bearings will get the pressure back. But I find it strange the engine sounds smooth with no knock. When I removed the flash pan to where the bearings are, everything looked good. I wiggled them and one dose move side to side but not up and down. I also checked the sending sensor and it is good. This one also don’t have the screen. There’s only one pressure relief doing in this engine which is in the oil pump. I would like to know what your opinion is with the circumstances above? Thanks in advance.
@@joejim1832 i ended up changing all the main bearings, that gave me half my pressure back. I’m sure the other half is lost through the cam bearings which isn’t worth the effort. Might as well swap the motor. This motor has a million miles literally. Hopefully this will get me at least another year till I can afford to swap in a new engine. 🤞
@@michaelhorstman2603 Did you swap the bearings while the motor was in the van? I have the same issue. Lower oil pressure and what sounds like a belt squeal coming from the center of crank area when I listen to it running on a stethoscope.
Az da krow flyz thank you so much. I really like your video. It will save me the hassle of removing the engine from a vet. That’s a huge pain in the ass.
Johnny Autoflower yes it was. A 1996. The #1 connecting rod baring had spun completely around over itself. Turns out the oil pickup tube fell off the oil pump and was laying on the bottom of the oil pan. Bought the car with a knock knowing it had an issue. Time for a rebuild. Thinking about going with a 383 and what ever cam I can run using stock heads.
Hey if your still active I got a question. My family has a Mitsubishi 4G69 motor in a Gallant, I changed the oil and used that long life garbage and half of it leaked out the front main without tripping the low oil light. The engine now sounds like a diesel, Is that indicative of some wear on the main bearings? I'm thinking about pulling the motor and replacing them along with the piston rings, motor has a 181k miles on it. Kind of want to do the bare minimum though, body and transmission are good, just the motor is a wait and see thing that I don't know if it will go bad.
So sorry to hear about this, motor issues can be very frustrating, I have a feeling that if you changed the bearings, hone the cylinders put new rings on the Pistons, then send the heads out to grind the valves and just rebuild the head, I'm pretty certain that's going to take care of all of your problems. If you can do the work yourself you will save a lot money.
@@azdakrowflyz5963 Would I be fine using the old valve stems, and should I replace most of the valve components, or should it be fine with just a lapping reassembly and lash adjustment? I don't have an alldata on this car anymore, and not sure it would even have the information I need since my last subscription was lacking. It doesn't justify their new pricing system for DIY single car subscriptions IMO. Again don't think they will have engine rebuild procedures beyond torque specs for head bolts, valve covers, water pumps, ect.
If you disconnect the timing belt or chain yes, but if it still in same place just make some markings with a white marker to make sure you didn't change the timing
The motor ran fine but had 200,k miles on it, I changed all the main bearings and the connecting rod bearings as well. I have 260, 000 miles on it now and it runs great.
Almost a quarter million views and I bet you’ve saved people millions so far!!! Thank you!
You did such a good job on this lighting & all I was really hoping you had more videos & tips for a 4.0 in frame overhaul. Regardless still grateful for this one!.
That's very kind of you, That motor had a lot of miles on it when I did this but it ran fine, I pulled the head off and took it to a shop and for a $190. They redid all the valves and guides. And while the top and bottom were off.I pulled the pistons and put new rings on each and honed the cylinders. I think I put another 70,000 miles on it since that.
Internal face lift.
What a great simple technique. Right after watching this I have to remove my main bearings and redo the crank. I will probably use this technique. Thanks. I love simple and stupid.
Great job with the lighting right to the point with the work
I used to use a plastic rod to push the old bearings out, but I admit you've done better and easier. Good job.
this is awesome, when i do this i’ll probably use a plastic screw to reduce the risk of it scratching anything as it’s rotated. there’s no bad luck like mechanic luck… lol
I did this in my civic, needed to change piston rings,(stock engine). I cleaned oil off the bolts , mark bolts with paint, honed cylinders and replaced rings. Bearings were put back in original position, bolts in hole it came out, and torque back to paint line. 10k miles and no problems( stock engine).
That's awesome! A lot of people think I'm doing this after the motor blows, but like you we did it as preventive maintenance oh, I put another 50,000 miles on my Jeep since then, I did the rebuild at 250,000 still going strong.
Honda is reliable than most of American or European cars
@@billiemor296my twenty06 civic coupe was styled in America and created in America by Americans .
A lot of Hondas manufacturing is in Ohio actually lmao they have two main plants along with countless subsidiary companies that specialize in the production of different shit for them. I was a machinist for the subsidiary that they used to make their gears for like 5 years and currently im maintenance/ engineer at the subsidiary they use to make all the rails for their seats . Working towards an engineer spot at their main facility in Marysville.
They also use the company yutaka In Ohio for their exhausts
Anytime I buy other than American. It's always a Honda, even an old one. I sold my late 80's Civic, running strong at 248K miles. After having it many years. It took the guys teenage son all of 6 days to burn out the clutch.
Excellent idea!!! Thanks for sharing the tip! No negative comments from me, again thanks for sharing your idea to help others. Cheers!
This is such a simple, yet clever solution. I might need to change bearings on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD - I'm going to see if I can use this little trick!
O yeah...You can do it. Do it before the crank gets marred up. This was a standard fix years ago. My factory AMC service manual tells you step by step how to even do this.
That’s the same thing I’m on ‘95 Tahoe it’s making that little ticking noise it does that raaaaa noise and then it shuts off so my suggestion it might be bearings because Ain’t the crankshaft because the Crank what if seize the motor
Any update?
i used the old Bearing to push in the new one on a 1970 350 el camino ran great for 40.000 miles.
That's a pretty good idea I'm about to do my thrust bearing and they come in a kit with all of them so I'll probably do them all
This is scary as fuck for someone who has never done anything like this before. But your video gives me some confidence that it can be done. I hope I don't fuck up my engine.
Did you fuck up your engine?
@@dewdop I did not do it this way because it was not physically possible on my engine. I had to pull the entire engine apart.
Brilliant. Ask an everyday mechanic if its possible, and they will say "no; you must remove the crankshaft".
Ask a real mechanic , AKA a bush mechanic , and they will tell you its possible if you put your mind to it.
it's not the correct way to do it , simple as that . A good mechanic will never do this unless it's your own car and you don't care about the end result
The real mechanic is the bush mechanic
The impossible......it becomes possible.....when you believe.
Nice trick! I use a flathead to get it started out then a heal bar to roll it out.
What's a "heal bar"
It also helps to clean the crankshaft first, just to be sure no metal shavings, dirt, or debris of any sort is in between the bearings and crankshaft. It’ll sucking doing it all over again in 10,000 mile or less, except the second time you’ll be getting the engine re-honed, new crankshaft, and possibly pistons more than likely. Awesome video though, especially with this particular vehicle.
Why should it fail?
@@maurizioalfieri602 If your bearings wear it'll leave metal shaving. In reality they just end up back in your oil pan, too heavy to be picked up by the pump. If they don't stop there.. We just hope for the love of god they don't make it to the oil pump. In reality if you just blow some compressed air through the ports you'll clean anything out big enough to do damage.
what would you clean the crankshaft with?
@@zacharyvivado5088 I use totally awesome cleaner straight and works absolutely amazing.
@@zacharyvivado5088 I pull the heads and oil pan off and clean the entire engine, the pre-lube w/assembly lube before putting back together. When I finish, before starting the engine I fill with oil to the proper amount but don’t put the filter or spark plugs in yes and turn the engine over like you’re starting it until oil start coming out of where the oil filter goes. Then put your filter on and plugs in and you’re good to go. The last part is just so you don’t dry start after fully cleaning the engine out.
Woah! Thanks for this!!
Using a feeler gauge works to push bearings out
Nice trick man. Thanks !
Outstanding! Same way I do it on million mile big rig diesels
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus with 3.0 ohv.
I found it easier to take a thin long flat head screwdriver (3mm wide) and lightly tap the old bearing until enough of the other side of the bearing was showing. Some people use a wooden popsicle stick to push out the old bearings, basically any thin piece of material softer than the crankshaft metal could be used, though stiff enough to hold it's shape while hammered lightly.
After that I was able to get some of the old bearings out just by rubbing it with my thumb, sometimes turning the crankshaft would turn the bearing and that helped getting it out. Some people use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull on the part of the bearing left showing after tapping them with the screwdriver.
Putting in the new bearings was easier, for almost all the bearings I was able to push them in nearly halfway with my thumb then I used the wooden end of a rubber mallet to tap them in all the way.
That's a great idea, that would have worked here as well, this is how my grandfather taught me to do it on tractors but I like your style. Thanks for the comment.
How long does this last ?
@@great4ever845 Until the bearings wear down.
There may be issues regarding the clearance between the crankshaft and the bearings.
The standard approach when it comes to replacing the crankshaft bearings is to remove the crankshaft and measure the mains, if the mains are within spec then use standard thickness bearings.
IF the crankshaft mains are worn down, then all the mains are ground down and thicker non standard bearings are used.
By taking the shortcut in the video we may be installing standard thickness bearings on a crankshaft that may be worn down, so the problem may go away temporarily.
@@johng.3740But you can still check clearance with plastigage when dry before lubing and torquing. It's only when rolling one in and one out at the same time that the clearance check is often missed. Bolts should be replaced too as modern TTY types are used now.
@@MiracleMitch Thanks for the advice, the Haynes Manual does recommend using plastigage on the crankshaft caps to determine clearance, now that I looked at it, this can be done without removing the crankshaft.
I have an OHV Vulcan V6 so I can reuse the crankshaft bolts.
I've been driving the vehicle for over a year and the low oil pressure light rarely comes on, I still use slightly thicker oil than that recommended by Haynes. Despite all that the engine works well.
You doing fine to educate us users
Do you have any more videos on rod bearing replacement
I clicked on the video expecting to laugh at it but this is actually really smart trick. Nice!
Going to a&p school in the 80s, I was driving a 76 cougar to school 28 miles each way 5 days a week.I started making a small knocking sound.My father told me to pull across a low spot and pull the pan. Rods were easy, the main bearings I couldn't get to turn out.Asking the master
Did you try using a small thin flat head screwdriver to get the bearing started out?
Another person used a wooden popsicle stick to get the bearing started out, some people using a flat thin piece of plastic.
It helps if all crankshaft bearing caps are loose, it reduces the tightness of the bearing.
Once you get the bearing part of the way out you can use needle nose pliers to pull them out all the way
looks like a jeep 4.0l to me! nice!
Awesome tip. A little assembly lube on the bottom half would help.
it was awesome buddy👍
What did you put on the journal to remove the bearing?
Great video 👍
I did this in my 2.0 vw aba engine. 2 problems. 1 is my number 3 main is a 1 piece main bearing and Thrust bearing Saddle. Can't rotate because No oil hole in Crank. 2 is my 1 and 5 main bearing cap bolts heads are right on side covers. So I had to grind a 17 mm socket to get off. All were Std size bearings. Also if your Crank journals are Not round you May Not be able to Roll in a new cap! It's better to take engine out if can!
Use brass sheet or copper piece
How do you click new one in? And make sure it’s lined up? And that screw can damage the surface fast.
3:38 ruclips.net/video/DSZiRBYgBNc/видео.html
Well, I think I'm a little smarter than the screw, and it never touches the bearing surface.
@@azdakrowflyz5963 what kind of screw is that
my diesel instructor did something very similar except he used a brass spoon with a curve in it
Excellent job
Excellent job more vedio please tyvm
Nice tip, but surely if you have the block out its better to pull the crank, polish off any journal debris with some 1000 wet and dry, blow out all the holes and fit new bearings to mains and big ends
Absolutely I agree, most people don't tear motor down unless something catastrophic has happened, this is just a maintenance operation to give you more time. I've already put on another 60,000 miles since that maintenance.
@@azdakrowflyz5963OLA. Seu comentário é hilariante no que se refere a "já fiz 60.000 km" é Argumento de quem não sabe o que faz, porque o faz e se tiver responsabilidade pode até perdê o sono. ABRAÇOS
thank you for sharing knowledge.
How do you test for play the knocking sound comes from?
This is brilliant
Do you put a oversized bearing or just stock one? Would new bearing help with crankshaft walking? Or is that something else on a 350v8.. thanks great video
You want to make sure you put the same size back in, your crank may have been ground in the past which means it's a different size bearing now, remove the old one then go by your new one the same size.
Re: crankwalk, one of the bearings is different it will control the crank from moving front to rear. I think that's what you mean when you say crankwalk.
excellent idea but try using extremely hard plastic plugs of some sort instead of a screw.....cranks are generally really hard and tough but if you break off a piece of any size whether it's crank material or screw material, you don't wanna do that.
A crank won’t break that easily
I hope u used some assemble lubricant. I'm about to try this in my 318. I don't feel like pulling the motor so it worth a shot. If it goes wrong I just get ti drive my challenger more & finish the 383 for the truck lol.
I'm sure you'll do a great job, I also ran a hone through the cylinders and changes the Rings and rebuilt the head while it was all off. It's been about a year now and it's still running stronger than ever.
What car is this?@@azdakrowflyz5963
Clever man 😂 So this way you can remoove pistons, replace rings, add some compression and increase lifetime and get rid of bad notices 👍
Going to do mine in the summer this way. I'll take 60000 miles more engine life right now (I do 7k per year so that's another 8 years!)
Why’d you have to replace the bearings? Was it low oil pressure?
My car has a knocking sound but I know my motor is healthy. I caught it early and it only knocks when I rev it. at idle you would think it’s a normal engine but I think my rod bearings are bad and I’ve seen people drop oil pan and replace them after sanding down the journals. Am I able to gain access to what you have here in this video from under my car ?
If you can pull off your oil pan I would think you could, mine is a jeep wrangler and none of the suspension was in the way, I wouldn't sand any of the journals or the throws on the crankshaft, even if it looks a little grooved, unless of course the lead on the bearings is completely gone and it's down to the metal on the bearing, if that is the case then you did not catch it in time. If when you pull the bearings out you see lead and the color of copper you should be good just change them out throw it back together. I wish you the best of luck.
just replace bearings and then run thicker oil. you'll be fine(ish). :)
Hi NBDX did you fix it ?
I have same problem now with
Bmw 320i
@@samjhoseph8089 nope engine needed rebuilding you can’t just snap on new rod bearings and call it a day. My car has a new engine now runs amazing I swapped it myself in my garage. Bought it off a jdm site for 1600$ and did the swap myself
It's not healthy if it knocks your one drive away from throwing a rod
I wann order connecting and main rod bearing for suzuki alto 1993 f6a engine. Cant get any.
fascinating
It it very fascinating i believe i found a very usefull vid in the near future
Thx for the info ... is reverse rotation of the crank ever a prblem ,, with timing chains or hydralic tensioners ??
Yes.. reverse isn't good idear
Wondering if I can repair a hydro locked engine using this method, I mean removing oil pan then removing all bearing caps on all 6 pistons so the engine can be rotated again, in my case it is a 2015 Chrysler Town and Country which engine wont move, i dont know how much damage I have but the reason for doing it this way is so I do not have to remove engine with transmission attached; if i manage to rotate the crankshaft I can unbolt the 4 bolts for the torque converter and then extract the engine leaving the transmission in place
how did you know you needed to redo the bearings? With cars becoming more expensive anything we can do to keep the old ones on a little while longer helps.
Very clever trick... however how to you measure and verify clearance?
If you want to use plastic gauge, then that's an entirely different kind of a rebuild, this is a quick honing of the cylinder, rebuild the head, rering the Pistons, and change the bearings on the throes and the mains. This is a straight 6 on a 94 Jeep Wrangler, my grandfather taught me how to do this on Old tractors,
Hi ! That's a great idea. what engine is yours?
I would like to do it on my Range Rover TDV6.
It's a jeep wrangler 4.0
This works great, the mains came out and new ones back in easy. With the exception of the main thrust bearing (center most). I cannot get the upper half of main thrust bearing to go back in. I've checked clearances on the sides and they are ok. (looking for any points that might be causing an interference fit). I went so far as to cut a short piece out of the old main to insure alignment (I tapped this in with a brass punch), then placed the upper thrust bearing on the crank as described in the video. When I rotate the crank, the cotter pin tries to ride underneath the main thrust bearing upper half. Frustrating...
Continuing to try this over and over is the defn of insanity. Has any one done this successfully? I realize this is a very tight fit. I tried loosening the other main caps to see if I could get more clearance.
Worse case, can I remove the crank with the engine still the truck?
How did you go ?
Very Nice!!!!!!!!
I had to do this with oversized bearing for my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 I had a knock and now it’s not as noises but I can still hear it. Will it slowly go away as the oil lubricates it? I know for sure it was the bearings causing the knock
No, it will not go away. The oil will do all its going to do in about 2 seconds after the engine is started. Was the rod loose when you took it apart? Was the crank journal surface damaged?
@@MrTexasdieselguy my rod bearing are worn because I had a leak that I didn’t notice I tried going oversized but I’m just gonna sell it for parts at this point
how long does it take to get to the main bearings ?
Fracking genius
Do u sand the main crankshaft before putting on the new barrings or just put them on
No sanding it will embed stones microscopic into the engine😮😢
What were the torque specs you used on this.
Okay the book says
the thrust washers must be installed in the correct journal clean the back sides of the lower main bearing inserts and lay them in the corresponding location in the main bearing cap make sure the tab on the bearing insert fits the recess in the block or the main bearing cap the upper bearings with the oil holes are installed into the engine block while the lower bearings without the holes are installed in the Caps or bed plate.
I'm changing the bearings and I want to understand, I will remove the bearings with the screw, and the other bearing goes into the cap?
That sounds correct, make sure you're observing the old one when it comes out and put the new one in exactly the same. Mine was a straight six 4.0 out of a Jeep Wrangler,
Hey buddy can I do this job on 2005 Silverado 1500 4.3 l or i have to pull engine out thanks (appreciate)
how many pounds of torque for main bearings
Mine spun a rod bearing I ordered stock bearings for it and it’s not as loose but it’s still loose enough too make slight movements up and down could my crank shaft just be too worn down from it running with that knock like that ran for like 10mins pulling into the drive way back the oil was low when I got the car
That's a great question, there is a tolerance for some movement but you need to use something called a plastic gauge to squeeze in side Your Rod and the throw on the crank, and then you pull it back out and measure it with a micrometer and see if it's within the tolerance, if it's not within the tolerance then I would have the crank ground, and they do that in 10,000th increments (.010) and then you buy the bearing to make up for that difference.
From the looks of those journals i wouldnt waste time with new bearings without having them at the very least polished. Most likely ground.
I thought the same. But good idea bro!
Lmao am staring at the timing chain on the flywheel 😁 ehh just leave that oil pan off ull be back in a week 😭
Yeah what’s the point. Take shoe lace and sand paper to them. No point in trying to make it last if you don’t sand journals. Am I wrong ????
Damn! I hung a hard left turn in my Ford Focus RS and immediately heard a slight rod knock but only between 2000-3000rpm and luckily I was only 1 mile from home. These motors are a nightmare to pull out, so I’m wondering if I could do this in the car. 🤔 Just replace the rod bearings and main bearings and use emery cloth to polish out any scoring. I don’t think it got much, if any, damage.
Thanks you very very good
You are great
my 99' f150 v6 4.2L had something shoot through the bottom oil pan...everybody says need another used engine put in, but maybe after seeing this video just need to new pan and bearing>?
I guess most engines have 5 bearings. I understand, how you change three in the middle. But how do you change the two bearings in front and in the back?
This is a 4.0 straight 6 out of a 1995 Jeep Wrangler, it's been so long since I've done it that I don't recall the front or rear one being very difficult at all, there's a bearing in the center that has sides that come up, I presume that's the thrust bearing, changing these bearings was the easiest part of the whole job, I pulled the Pistons and the head, a shop charged me $195 to remichine the head like new, I put new rings on the Pistons and honed the cylinders, and while it was a part I went ahead and changed the timing chain. This was at least 50,000 miles ago and I've driven all over the western United States since. Sorry don't think I'm much help here
Is there a way to determine if you need standard or oversized bearings before ordering them? Great video thx
I believe you would have to have your crank ground, and I believe they do that in 10,000th increments, (.010) I did not have my crank ground so I put stock bearings back in, I've probably put another 50,000 miles on it since, and it's running great has more power and doesn't stink. I also pulled the head off and had all the valves reground new valve guides and he flattened the head, that was only $190. Mine is a straight 6, and I pulled the Pistons out and put new rings on them.
@@azdakrowflyz5963 thank you for the response. Not looking to go crazy on this repair just need a second vehicle. So I’ll order the stock size because that makes sense when you read it but not when you say it in your head 🤦🏻♂️
Did you have to take the pistons out so you could turn the crank?
no ,turn crank shaft bolt with ratchet BUT remove spark plugs to avoid cylinder compression. Spins easily.
How do u know what Size to use
important to check clearances......for the new bearing, correct?
fresh oil on the new bearing.........both sides?
What would happen if you was just trying to get it home and it got to a point where the car died and wont start
Please, Is there a way to file and measure a journey for the main with the engine in the car?
i would have used a stirdy peice of plastic because of scratcing the seats in there also sinds youre in there you should use a small brush and clean the oil passages
Amazing
Is it normal that one bearing is a different size to the rest? My bearings on my 3.8L jku has three of the same but it says the last is a different size, this happens to be the one that’s worn and spun. Is this because there was a thin bearing on it??
Wow that's a good question, I'm not completely familiar with that motor, Have you already bought the new bearings? And if so have you checked if there's a different one?
What car engine is it ? Can you do this on a volvov40?
Impressive 👍🏼 how long did it last?
So far 25,000 miles, I've taken it to Moab, Swamp lake, dusy Ershim trail, all very difficult 4x trails, I did the work at 245,000 miles and the exhaust used to stink, now it runs strong and doesn't choke me out.
@@azdakrowflyz5963 I have a 2004 gmc 3500 6.0 with the lq4 engine. About 2 years ago my oil pressure dropped to 5 psi on start up and went up to around 20 psi as it’s revved up. This is a carpet cleaning van and runs off a pto. So it runs at a high idle for about an hour at a time equivalent to 50mph. The engine still has run smooth for the last 2 years. The the other day I noticed when I came out, the lifters were ticking. Went away as I got to my next job and the same tick after the next job. I put some Lucas in it and the pressure dropped to 0! So I removed the oil pan and found the pick up tube o ring was flattened and dry rotted. I thought that would solve my problem. I was wrong. So I installed a new oil pump. Pressure came back to the 25 psi but soon as it got to operating temp. It went back to 0 again. Due to covid I don’t have the funds for a new engine. I’m hoping changing the bearings will get the pressure back. But I find it strange the engine sounds smooth with no knock. When I removed the flash pan to where the bearings are, everything looked good. I wiggled them and one dose move side to side but not up and down. I also checked the sending sensor and it is good. This one also don’t have the screen. There’s only one pressure relief doing in this engine which is in the oil pump.
I would like to know what your opinion is with the circumstances above?
Thanks in advance.
@@michaelhorstman2603 to me it seems like you need a valve job sir.
@@joejim1832 i ended up changing all the main bearings, that gave me half my pressure back. I’m sure the other half is lost through the cam bearings which isn’t worth the effort. Might as well swap the motor. This motor has a million miles literally. Hopefully this will get me at least another year till I can afford to swap in a new engine. 🤞
@@michaelhorstman2603 Did you swap the bearings while the motor was in the van? I have the same issue. Lower oil pressure and what sounds like a belt squeal coming from the center of crank area when I listen to it running on a stethoscope.
What motor is this?
He didn't check bearing clearances ?
How do you know what size to replace with? There are a lot of different sizes of under size bearings.
That's true, you need to pull one of the Caps off and take it down when you buy a new set they will measure it for you.
Az da krow flyz thank you so much. I really like your video. It will save me the hassle of removing the engine from a vet. That’s a huge pain in the ass.
@@nathansumstine9374 was it lt1 vette?
Johnny Autoflower yes it was. A 1996. The #1 connecting rod baring had spun completely around over itself. Turns out the oil pickup tube fell off the oil pump and was laying on the bottom of the oil pan. Bought the car with a knock knowing it had an issue. Time for a rebuild. Thinking about going with a 383 and what ever cam I can run using stock heads.
@@nathansumstine9374 so was your oil pressure near zero at idle?
Hey if your still active I got a question. My family has a Mitsubishi 4G69 motor in a Gallant, I changed the oil and used that long life garbage and half of it leaked out the front main without tripping the low oil light. The engine now sounds like a diesel, Is that indicative of some wear on the main bearings?
I'm thinking about pulling the motor and replacing them along with the piston rings, motor has a 181k miles on it.
Kind of want to do the bare minimum though, body and transmission are good, just the motor is a wait and see thing that I don't know if it will go bad.
So sorry to hear about this, motor issues can be very frustrating, I have a feeling that if you changed the bearings, hone the cylinders put new rings on the Pistons, then send the heads out to grind the valves and just rebuild the head, I'm pretty certain that's going to take care of all of your problems. If you can do the work yourself you will save a lot money.
@@azdakrowflyz5963 Would I be fine using the old valve stems, and should I replace most of the valve components, or should it be fine with just a lapping reassembly and lash adjustment? I don't have an alldata on this car anymore, and not sure it would even have the information I need since my last subscription was lacking. It doesn't justify their new pricing system for DIY single car subscriptions IMO. Again don't think they will have engine rebuild procedures beyond torque specs for head bolts, valve covers, water pumps, ect.
No new bolts?
Need to adjust the timing after inspecting that ?
If you disconnect the timing belt or chain yes, but if it still in same place just make some markings with a white marker to make sure you didn't change the timing
" pretty slick 👍👍🇺🇸 "
Nice
Wat about thrust bearing
But how did you know that this is the right bearing to be changed? Or you r going to change them all ?
I like the idea it’s great 😊 thank you
The motor ran fine but had 200,k miles on it, I changed all the main bearings and the connecting rod bearings as well. I have 260, 000 miles on it now and it runs great.
What engine is this? Outstanding video.
Thank you, this is a 4.0 straight 6 out of a 95 Jeep Wrangler.
Why didn't you clean up/polish the journal?
I am gonna try it today
معلم رائع
What kind of car?
Thanks
Hi, nice trick.
What engine is it? Looks like a BMW m44 engine.
No it's a 4.0 straight 6 out of a Jeep,
I cant find anywhere in the description on what car your working on?
This is a Straight 6,
4.0 from my jeep wrangler, However, you can do this with a V8, or a 4 cylinder.
What about thrust bearings?
Did you pull the spark plugs to get the crank to spin so freely? No compression?
Man, the pistons are removed
Context man. Is this the 2.3L Mazda Engine?
Jeep 4.0 L
Cant believe you didnt clean and polish the journals before installing new bearings.