Why NOT Heat the Whole Piece When Soldering
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- Join Jeanette Caines, author of Soldering Demystified and owner of Jewelry Arts Inc (jewelryarts.com) as she shares insightful tips on soldering while also debunking common myths around heating your whole piece. Watch as she shares her techniques on soldering and how she efficiently and quickly solders joints with little to no oxidation, less dirty means less picking, less dirty means less clean up.
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I Have done it both ways she is right but there are times to use both techniques. big bulky things need to be mre evenly heated.
Awesome tip! Thank you.
Wao! It's really contradicting with all other sources I've watched from RUclips, including teaching videos from Rio Grande and other popular jewelry channels on soldering. That's a great tip, though since I'm a beginner I'm still confused about if there's still any downside on using the oxidizing flame for the soldering you demonstrated. And yes, I always doubt whether I really need to heat up the whole piece, especially a big one. Thank you!
I think a larger piece would be an interesting demo... I suspect that something with more mass would conduct more heat away from the joint. I’ve never had to jack around with hearting u- thin parts.. but have run into trouble concentrating my heat too early on heavy pieces. Happy to be learn the error of my ways tho
Great tip! I'm going to try this.
I’ll try thx!! :)
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Is this the same with Argentium
Yes, it works with all jewelry metals. :)
Man, I've been doing it wrong all this time. Thank you
Think about plumbers and all the piping. Uts impossible to heat the whole line up, you can only focus on the spot yoyr soldering. I asked my teacher about this cause i noticed the solder would flow without heating the whole thing up!! Anyways she said it doesnt work all the time. Im guessing the times it didnt work was cause it was already too oxidized!! Wow now i dont feel crazy!!
I have a question about wire. On the site you can order dimensions by feet and inches. If I order by feet, will I get a foot of wire? It's priced by troy onces... anyone can help. Thanks
Hi there! Great question. If you order in feet and select 1, you will receive one foot of wire. This way you can order in bulk if you need multiple feet, or you can select inches for very small amounts. When you order by troy ounce, you don’t have control over the length, we will weigh out a full troy ounce of that specific size/gauge!
This technique has it's appropriate applications. I wouldn't use it for this engagement. In this case the deformation was just too much. It's better to heat the entire object so it can expand and contract uniformly. Fire scale is preventable when flux is used. When you learn proper flame control, in a reducing atmosphere is best. It's clearly visible this was a failed attempt, I can see the seam is not secure and the solder is actually below it. Stuck to the surface like a dangling soap bubble.
Will this method work with a butane torch?
Hi Kim, Thanks for watching. A butane torch will work for small projects. Hope this helps!
What about when you have a long seam like soldering a bezel wire down?
Hi David, Good question. Yes, when soldering a bezel wire down, you can use the same process that Jeanette shows in the video. We recommend heating the entire piece so the solder runs completely around the base of the wire. Hope this helps!
This is interesting but I'm not sure this would work on Bezel wire fine silver.
This process will work with fine silver as well!
Doesn't this cause overheating and firescale in some cases?
Hi Shalena, Thanks for asking! Since the heat will naturally transfer to the surrounding metal, it’s much quicker and efficient to just heat the seam which will require cleanup anyway. By heating the entire piece, you are actually increasing the chances of firescale in areas other than the solder seam. There shouldn’t be any issues with overheating, and flux is used to control any firescale. Hope this helps, and have a great day!
Yeah but.....what about when working with a lot more metal? Say...a wide cuff. You could be there all day holding your torch in the one spot you want to solder on some posts for half drilled stones or a bezel or something. Wouldn’t you have to heat the whole piece a bit to help speed it along?
Omg!!!
I don't think that was a proper way. Why? Watch how metal bends near 2:30. This problem is caused by thermal expansion of metal. Metal bends and then get soldered, so it stays this way...
I'm not sure I like this.