Too right mate, I think they are overshadowed by the blinding publicity behind helicoil, which demonstrates the power of branding and marketing, little bit like we all say hoover the carpet instead of vacuum the carpet, some brands become a household name... thanks for the nudge, one of those things you get to eventually!
I have a buddy that works in a machine shop that always claimed that heli coils were actually stronger than original threads in aluminum. I always use a little lock tight when putting in helicoils to lock them in and run a tap threw after installing the helicoil and the lock tight is dry. All that said this kit looks like a much easier repair and is for sure stronger than the original aluminum threads. Another good video!
Thanks buddy, it's a better alternative for busy threads, specially on servicing holes that get stretched often, this is where helicoils fail the most... good to hear from you, as always, hope life is good, take care, Del
@@Moonfleet41 Kike I said I have been using Heicoils for nor years then you have been alive and the next one that fails willl be the first one. You have to locktite them in, though. There must be a bazillionof them in daily service at the steel mill,,,in Cast iron and Steel as well as aluminum. You just have to put them in right and mot half ass them..
Your videos are very educational not just for bikes but for other things too. Keep on the same path don't be like those other RUclips channels and I'll be around for a long time watching the mistakes you make and the wins you make and learn a thing or two.
Wow what a valuable video. As any busa owner will tell you, how many of us have stripped the soft aluminum sump plug thread? Almost everyone who DIY work on the bus will have at some point accidentally stripped that notorious thread. I tried Helicoil once and it failed, oil slowly leaked. I had to buy a new sump pan. But this fix wasnt around that I knew of those days. Cant remember the thread size but that Wirth looks like a terrific bit of kit for the job. Wish I had it back then. Valuable vid. Cheers.
Hey Volvi, I read about these on the list, openly available, I think they're 14mm, and a lot more reliable than the raw casting... good to hear from you mate, hope you're enjoying some sunshine, really appreciate your support....!
Thank Harold, was good to be back, have been very busy at work and with family, we had a great day filming, glad you enjoyed! Have a great weekend, PPx
Yes, those are a better solution in the long term. I've said it before, you need to use kopr-kote on the fasteners to prevent the two materials from locking together. Great having your lady help out with the filming, makes things move a long better and she can get those shots you can't get by yourself. Great team work.
Welcome back Penny xx See Del, these kinda videos are your Bread & Butter, Teach & Show videos i absolutely love to watch, not that i`m not enjoying the Busa Build Bike or any of the other Project Bike Series you have done, ive learned so much from them, but I learn new skills, see new tools and products i never thought existed in these kinda videos, you make each teaching video a true pleasure to watch, you wasted in that garage mucka,, you should be in an engineering school teaching old farts like me how to build and maintain motorbikes, you`d make a fortune LOL. Cracking video mate, next time i strip a thread i`m getting you round to sort it,, and there`ll be a nice bottle of JD on my benchtop in my workshop. Have a great weekend you guys. Claypole.
Blimey Glen, kind words indeed, am truly not worthy... but we do enjoy making these kind of videos, and it was good to have the boss back in the garage too! Just sharing what we find along the way, and if it helps one person, that's great! Have a fantastic weekend mate, and keep that JD on the bench, may just take you up on that on day, too tempting ha ha!
Del, having witnessed a similar experiment to yours using various thread repair systems to prove the shear and pull out strength of the systems, the surprise top dog was the Helicoil! The Timesert came in in second place. If you think carefully about the Timesert and Helicoil operations they are different in principle, the Timesert is essentially a replacement thread of a larger diameter than is normally required for the bolt fitting, it is totally reliant on the shear capacity of standard thread forms, albeit of a larger diameter, of the original (aluminium) casing material with a little extra due to the taper. The Helicoil operates in a different way in that being a 'coil spring' form it can expand as the bolt is tightened into it, This expansion is caused by the ramping action of the bolt against the Helicoil thread, forcing the whole of the Helicoil wire into the aluminium receiving material, creating larger areas to resist the shear on each thread form (a detailed cross section of the two will show what is happening). Hence the Helicoil performance. Porsche use Helicoils to fix the brake caliper mounting bolts into their cast alloy trailing arms, presumably in preference to the various other thread strengthening systems, in a critical area like that the performance of the fixing is paramount so cost is not such an issue. Also, in the production environment setting the Helicoil in the threaded hole and then breaking the tang off is a PITA when compared with the simplicity of setting a Timesert so there must be big advantages to using a Helicoil.
Far more interesting vid than the"wire thread insert" one we had to endure in the late 80's while on my apprenticeships, it was brutal, black and white, wobbly picture and some bloke from the 50's doing the voice over, and about 40 mins long, think most of us were asleep by the end!!!!. Nice info Del good tool indeed👍👌
One of the many reasons I love this channel. Great job Del & fantastic to see Miss Penny back keeping an eye on things ⭐️ Ride safe & enjoy your weekend both👍🏼
Came accross theses about 25 years ago, within the PSV repair industry. Leyland Atlantean Angle drive top row or half inch UNC used to pull out where the rad used to bolt on, Priceless
Great bit of kit Del, I like it. Thanks for sharing that mate. Penny and you have a relaxing weekend, and I hope the sun is out so you can both get out on the bike. It's bloody raining over here in Oz. Cheers
Thanks Mate.. yeah, a little light relief this weekend, its been persisting down all week and last weekend... so maybe getting out on the bikes tomorrow fingers crossed..!
Awesome video Penny and Del. I'm glad I never stripped a bolt but it's good to know that they have something out there that will take care of it. You good at what you do so 4 minutes you is awesome. And an experienced person like me would probably take longer😅 Penny and You Del Ride Safely and Have A Wonderful Weekend.
Thank you Paul for your kind support, it's always appreciated... either way you stack it, even if you really took your time, this truly is no more than a 10min job and will get you out of a fix with a stripped thread... have a great weekend yourself, supposed to sunny here, so we are heading, we hope, for a sunny ride... ride safe yourself, D&Px
Wurth time-serts for me, all the time ! Well better than even Snap-on helicoils for mechanical work. Photography manufactures are now using steel inserts into aluminium for strength & constant use. great video to boot, thanks & keep them coming.
What's up delboy and great to hear your voice again penny another awesome video as usual 5:30am Saturday morning in Rotorua NZ great way to start my weekend off keep up the awesome work... your the man brother ride safe 🏍️🏍️
Dankie/ Merci Delboy's Garage. I've learned a lot. You get Helix-Coil(HC) and Wurth-Time-Sert(WTS). Both do the same thing. It looks like the HC is a bit more easy and the WTS is bit more stable.. Thank you for the video and also the other ppl for there input.
I have a damaged thread on the gsx, where the headers bolt on. The mechanic has suggested he drill and fit a new thread at a cost of £250. Useful info Del thanks!
Hi Del , just a little tip with Time-Sert , turn the inset up when you have cut the seat and that helps judge the debth , you don't want to cut the seat too shallow as it makes a mess of the seating . TIme -Sert can even be used on cylinder heads with the head in situ , a special set with a copper coated insert , Used them for over 35 years. Personally you can not get a better repair kit , all the best T
Hey Tony, thanks for the tip buddy... I saw the copper inserts on the list, and they galvanised ones too, seems like they properly cater for every need! Catch up with you soon when you get back... D&Px
So glad you learned the joy of timeserts Del. I love those things! I never use helicoils because I’ve never had anything but bad experiences with them. Small advice: if you want to make sure they never come out ever then use some high strength red threadlocker on the outside of it before you wind it in. I always do that after a test fit to make sure it won’t come out, but I don’t use wurth timeserts so they don’t have the expansion end.
@@florida9119There are various brands so it’s really hit or miss. But I try to use the time sert branded packs. Original versions are always better sometimes.
Great to see you back penny. Would love to see a torque test on that see how much it would take before stripping compared to the coil. Great as usual keep it and always watching and liking....
Great to see this step by step wurth sell nothing but quality and I have now switch everything to them they also sell WD40 equivalent but better it's called ultra 2040. Just a heads up now you have turned to wurth you wont go back lol. Keep up the good work Del.
Thank you my friend, I totally agree, I started using Wurth Dry Chain Lube many years ago, and it sold me on the quality of their products... got some great products to use in the garage coming up, things that will really help improve the projects... have a good weekend, many thanks, Del
Such an important topic..thanks delboy...I use the smallest amount of leverage ever on a motorcycle fasteners especially in aluminum ..."descretion is the better part of valour "
I used timeserts in the 70s and on. I tried a helicoil once and found it to be ridiculous. So yea, timeserts have always been the way to go. Yes, I was an auto mechanic and shop owner.
I bet ya take more than 4 minutes doing ya mates front forks😂😂 👍 kinda nice seeing a tool review again, it’s breaks things up a bit. Good video Team D&P
Thanks mate, haven't done one for a while as we just want to keep it to relevant things that really would get you out of trouble and in my view, are worth the money... glad you enjoyed!
Great video Del. Penny, nice to hear your voice again! So how might you do a pinch bolt hole where the threads don't start until way down the shaft? You couldn't drill that special shoulder hole unless you enlarged the whole bore all the way down...
Yeah, its a thread down inside a clearance hole.. pretty unique.. but its not vital that it sits totally flush like in an engine casing as there is a gap in the yoke slot to accommodate it... you can tap the flange flatter against the surface by about 50% of its thickness..so it'll be fine as the gap is 3mm when bolted up tight. Thanks for your support John, and Penny says hi.
Another helpful video, thanks so much for sharing. Had 3 bikes stolen in the past. Last one was last year in oxford. What about making a video how to wire and fit a secret kill switch ? 😂🤣😃
Clever Tool Somewhat similar to the Keenserts we occasionally have to use at work, though there bloody expensive £4-5 a piece compared to helicoils. These are Much better than a helicoils IMO as you don't risk the coil skipping a thread when inserting them the inserts all one piece. Luckily we've never had a helicoil breakup but I can imagine it'd be a pain.
Big fan of Wurth products. Particularly their dry chain lube. Not always the cheapest. But if it does the job right, first time; then money well spent. Have a great weekend.
just had my spark plug blow out and knacker half the thread in the head then to make it home I had to force the plug back in finishing the job so now I need something like this doing or a second-hand head whichever is the cheaper good video Del
This will be prefect mate, they do a copper plated insert for spark plug holes, but I would obviously recommend taking the head off, if you can, as you will inevitably drop debris down in to the cylinder... should be a good sound fix, and way stronger than a helicoil.
@@Moonfleet41 cheers Del I think I may do it this way but if poss ill leave the head in situ and try it old school and do the job the with the piston at TDC and just vacuum the shavings out
@@ipaddy Hi Patrick, scroll down and check David Stevenson's advice below on fixing a plug hole in situ, he advises both valves closed and thick grease to catch any swarf.. check out his channel as well, he's a very experienced engineer, and wisely sage.
Thats a nifty trick! I wonder if it could be used in working with wood? Mounting a fixing similar to that allows a bolt to do and undo but strong enough to last.
Thank you for a fine presentation, The coefficient of expansion for aluminum is about two times greater than steel; does that pose a problem for repairing spark plug holes?
It's tough to know for sure whether time-sert is better than helicoil. A possible benefit of helicoil is that because it is a wire, it can move to compensate for where there is more pressure whereas a solid piece may not. The solid insert will put more pressure on some turns of the newly-cut aluminum thread than others since the insert threads and the newly cut threads will not be perfectly matched. There is a YT channel that compares helicoil to time sert with destructive test. When testing these different methods you also have to equalize the length of the inserts.
You could do that, it certainly wouldn't be wrong, however the thread sert design has the tapered applicator tool that physically forces the insert out at the bottom of the parent thread and jams it solid, metal to metal... so if you did use some threadlock, then a very tiny amount only as there's not much room in there when the design makes it an interference fit.
Now that's a useful kit. Thanks for introducing it. I see a lot of nifty stuff out there but it really helps if someone actually shows me how to use it properly. Just one question: what happens in terms of rusting if you mix two metals, in this case aluminium and steel? I mean long term ofc, copper grease? Please feel free to tell me it's a stupid question but I proclaim ignorance here. Nice to hear Penny's voice again! :) Best wishes to you both and a have a good weekend!
I was wondering what about different expansion rates too. Just reading all the previous comments to see if my question was already posted. Rgds from St Africa Clive
Ah the old lifesaver, they come in so many forms but so valuable when you Gooch a customer's car,bike,guitar,lawnmower,antique 16" desk fan , vacuum cleaner , roller coaster, millennium bridge , tricycle ............. Yep got them T shirts 😁🤘🏻 Lovely to see/hear you both have a great weekend 👍🏻☮❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks so much for sharing this Del. I really like this an an alternative to traditional Helicoil. It would be an interesting test (since you've have a couple made-up in your test-piece) to get a torque wrench out and just test how much it takes to now damage/strip one of these. Perhaps compare to the force required to strip the aluminum.
Yes Maxwell, as long as you did not twist the applicator tool all the way through which expands and locks the insert.. it can still be unscrewed.... but if you did expand the insert fully, then the best way to remove it is to thread a bolt into it with some red locktite, then after a few minutes it will lock solid, and you can unscrew the bolt bringing the insert with it.! Good luck hope that helps.
cant see that working on a blind hole,as in my fiesta 1.4tdci, that has pulled the thread out of the injector hold down bolt... that aside. great video..
Few people have asked that, it's a common sense question, but there's nothing advising it in the instructions, in fact, quite the opposite... they advise a little oil in to the area when inserting the time sert, the design involves winding the insert tool down through the bushing which physically expands it out to jam against the parent metal, and it's really tight once it's in, I imagine the pressure would push out any liquid threadlock or worse still prevent the bushing from expanding properly to it's full size, meaning the intended bolt would be tight when you wind it in... just following the instructions here today, it went in a dream and was rock solid, so it seems ok.
I bought a similar long length version that had copper inserts but it saved me big time, repaired a sparkplug hole in a 2005 GSXR 600. Everyone quoted me for a full engine rebuild but I said screw that. The kit I bought was around 200$.
Have you seen a bulls eye spirit level? Carefully araldite one onto the head of your tap wrench, making sure the moving jaw still can, and you will never have to worry about about pissed threads again.
Good plan, I've got a little 2" long magnetic level for the top of a tap wrench, same principle I guess, as long as you're working head flat in a vice aye?!
Hi mate ne here ..had a hg bolt yield and break recently on the 1400 ..git 3d on order git 2.5d . Many suggest heli are strong enough ..on brief inspection coil seems OK but Nedd to have a more thorough look ..was some shavings in there which is odd. Wondering why this has happened ? Felt like throwing it through the window at the time
Helicoils are a trusted household name and there's no denying that they work, but am sure you'll agree, that a solid, stainless steel tube is gonna be a better insert than a coil of wire... and as reliable as helicoils are, they can fail on busy threads that come in and out a lot, like spark plugs and sump plugs, specially if they're over tightened or the wrong bolt is used.. for instance, a metric inserted where an imperial is needed, fastest way to chew up a helicoil.
Your work is so important, helped me so much.
Excellent to say the minimum least! Just like the gentleman say, "it is a great way to make a nightmare a simple task." Thank you, sir.
Most welcome Sir, am glad you enjoyed it.
Very interesting and good to hear Penny back again! Nice start to the weekend.
Great video and camera work! Thank you for sharing, great editing and camera work.
Thank you very much!
Thank you very much for this informative and detailed video :)
You're very welcome!
Fabulous, Del! This was really instructional. And so terrific to hear Penny’s mellifluous voice again! Hope you guys are having a great weekend...
Thanks Gary, good to have her back from her busy schedule... have a great Sunday yourself, ride safe! D&Px
Moonfleet41 😎
Hi Del and Penny...finally you’ve seen the light 💡 I suggested this to you several years ago. Fantastic product and great how to. Have a good weekend
Too right mate, I think they are overshadowed by the blinding publicity behind helicoil, which demonstrates the power of branding and marketing, little bit like we all say hoover the carpet instead of vacuum the carpet, some brands become a household name... thanks for the nudge, one of those things you get to eventually!
I have a buddy that works in a machine shop that always claimed that heli coils were actually stronger than original threads in aluminum. I always use a little lock tight when putting in helicoils to lock them in and run a tap threw after installing the helicoil and the lock tight is dry. All that said this kit looks like a much easier repair and is for sure stronger than the original aluminum threads. Another good video!
Thanks buddy, it's a better alternative for busy threads, specially on servicing holes that get stretched often, this is where helicoils fail the most... good to hear from you, as always, hope life is good, take care, Del
@@Moonfleet41 Kike I said I have been using Heicoils for nor years then you have been alive and the next one that fails willl be the first one. You have to locktite them in, though. There must be a bazillionof them in daily service at the steel mill,,,in Cast iron and Steel as well as aluminum. You just have to put them in right and mot half ass them..
Your videos are very educational not just for bikes but for other things too. Keep on the same path don't be like those other RUclips channels and I'll be around for a long time watching the mistakes you make and the wins you make and learn a thing or two.
Absolutely fantastic, clear, informative video. Well done, Sir!
Thank you kindly Sir, glad you enjoyed it!
Every nice and clean too under 5 minutes hope we see ya repair your buddy's bike 👍👌
Good fix and alternative to helicoil.. Nice 1..
Wow what a valuable video. As any busa owner will tell you, how many of us have stripped the soft aluminum sump plug thread? Almost everyone who DIY work on the bus will have at some point accidentally stripped that notorious thread. I tried Helicoil once and it failed, oil slowly leaked. I had to buy a new sump pan. But this fix wasnt around that I knew of those days. Cant remember the thread size but that Wirth looks like a terrific bit of kit for the job. Wish I had it back then. Valuable vid. Cheers.
Hey Volvi, I read about these on the list, openly available, I think they're 14mm, and a lot more reliable than the raw casting... good to hear from you mate, hope you're enjoying some sunshine, really appreciate your support....!
Pretty handy fix to have on hand, thanks for the video!
Hi Penny, it's nice to hear you again 😃
Thank Harold, was good to be back, have been very busy at work and with family, we had a great day filming, glad you enjoyed! Have a great weekend, PPx
Yes, those are a better solution in the long term. I've said it before, you need to use kopr-kote on the fasteners to prevent the two materials from locking together.
Great having your lady help out with the filming, makes things move a long better and she can get those shots you can't get by yourself. Great team work.
Welcome back Penny xx See Del, these kinda videos are your Bread & Butter, Teach & Show videos i absolutely love to watch, not that i`m not enjoying the Busa Build Bike or any of the other Project Bike Series you have done, ive learned so much from them, but I learn new skills, see new tools and products i never thought existed in these kinda videos, you make each teaching video a true pleasure to watch, you wasted in that garage mucka,, you should be in an engineering school teaching old farts like me how to build and maintain motorbikes, you`d make a fortune LOL. Cracking video mate, next time i strip a thread i`m getting you round to sort it,, and there`ll be a nice bottle of JD on my benchtop in my workshop. Have a great weekend you guys. Claypole.
Blimey Glen, kind words indeed, am truly not worthy... but we do enjoy making these kind of videos, and it was good to have the boss back in the garage too! Just sharing what we find along the way, and if it helps one person, that's great! Have a fantastic weekend mate, and keep that JD on the bench, may just take you up on that on day, too tempting ha ha!
Rehearsals for another 1st. Nothing like variety, more versatility in the skill levels. Cheers ..... nice one :)
Thank you Tony, nowt like a trial run to make sure you get it right aye?!
Del, having witnessed a similar experiment to yours using various thread repair systems to prove the shear and pull out strength of the systems, the surprise top dog was the Helicoil! The Timesert came in in second place. If you think carefully about the Timesert and Helicoil operations they are different in principle, the Timesert is essentially a replacement thread of a larger diameter than is normally required for the bolt fitting, it is totally reliant on the shear capacity of standard thread forms, albeit of a larger diameter, of the original (aluminium) casing material with a little extra due to the taper. The Helicoil operates in a different way in that being a 'coil spring' form it can expand as the bolt is tightened into it, This expansion is caused by the ramping action of the bolt against the Helicoil thread, forcing the whole of the Helicoil wire into the aluminium receiving material, creating larger areas to resist the shear on each thread form (a detailed cross section of the two will show what is happening). Hence the Helicoil performance.
Porsche use Helicoils to fix the brake caliper mounting bolts into their cast alloy trailing arms, presumably in preference to the various other thread strengthening systems, in a critical area like that the performance of the fixing is paramount so cost is not such an issue. Also, in the production environment setting the Helicoil in the threaded hole and then breaking the tang off is a PITA when compared with the simplicity of setting a Timesert so there must be big advantages to using a Helicoil.
Great bit of kit and much better than a helicoil. Have a great weekend both..
Far more interesting vid than the"wire thread insert" one we had to endure in the late 80's while on my apprenticeships, it was brutal, black and white, wobbly picture and some bloke from the 50's doing the voice over, and about 40 mins long, think most of us were asleep by the end!!!!.
Nice info Del good tool indeed👍👌
Excellent, going to try one tomorrow.
Thanks.
One of the many reasons I love this channel. Great job Del & fantastic to see Miss Penny back keeping an eye on things ⭐️ Ride safe & enjoy your weekend both👍🏼
Thank you buddy, was great to have PP back on a rare day off, glad you enjoyed the video, have a great weekend yourself, ride safe!
Came accross theses about 25 years ago, within the PSV repair industry. Leyland Atlantean Angle drive top row or half inch UNC used to pull out where the rad used to bolt on, Priceless
A very innovative kit...nice 👍.
Good to have miss P. back behind the camera .
👋🏻
Brilliant to have you back Penny!!
Oh yes, top video too Del 😀
Great bit of kit Del, I like it. Thanks for sharing that mate. Penny and you have a relaxing weekend, and I hope the sun is out so you can both get out on the bike. It's bloody raining over here in Oz. Cheers
Thanks Mate.. yeah, a little light relief this weekend, its been persisting down all week and last weekend... so maybe getting out on the bikes tomorrow fingers crossed..!
Thank you! Now i know how to repair the head bolts on my CB 750!
Awesome video Penny and Del. I'm glad I never stripped a bolt but it's good to know that they have something out there that will take care of it. You good at what you do so 4 minutes you is awesome. And an experienced person like me would probably take longer😅 Penny and You Del Ride Safely and Have A Wonderful Weekend.
Thank you Paul for your kind support, it's always appreciated... either way you stack it, even if you really took your time, this truly is no more than a 10min job and will get you out of a fix with a stripped thread... have a great weekend yourself, supposed to sunny here, so we are heading, we hope, for a sunny ride... ride safe yourself, D&Px
Wurth time-serts for me, all the time ! Well better than even Snap-on helicoils for mechanical work.
Photography manufactures are now using steel inserts into aluminium for strength & constant use.
great video to boot, thanks & keep them coming.
Excellent workshop setup, love it.
amazing a new thread in just 20sec
Great video as always Del .
And great to Know penny;s back doing the Camera work and directing.
Looking forward to new Video.
Thanks Gerry, good to have the boss back in the garage lol
Wow.... Its like your simple skills.... Good. Job del... I think penny back again after a long time..
I use a similar fixing at work, ours start from M3 and are referred to as Hank bushes. So nice to here Penelope again, keep up the good work guys.
What's up delboy and great to hear your voice again penny another awesome video as usual 5:30am Saturday morning in Rotorua NZ great way to start my weekend off keep up the awesome work... your the man brother ride safe 🏍️🏍️
hey Ben.. Good to hear from you mate.. have a great weekend aye.
Another great one! Thx.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Dankie/ Merci Delboy's Garage. I've learned a lot. You get Helix-Coil(HC) and Wurth-Time-Sert(WTS). Both do the same thing. It looks like the HC is a bit more easy and the WTS is bit more stable.. Thank you for the video and also the other ppl for there input.
I have a damaged thread on the gsx, where the headers bolt on. The mechanic has suggested he drill and fit a new thread at a cost of £250. Useful info Del thanks!
That's a fruity price aye mate?! I suppose therein lies the value of doing it yourself... !
Hi Del , just a little tip with Time-Sert , turn the inset up when you have cut the seat and that helps judge the debth , you don't want to cut the seat too shallow as it makes a mess of the seating . TIme -Sert can even be used on cylinder heads with the head in situ , a special set with a copper coated insert ,
Used them for over 35 years. Personally you can not get a better repair kit , all the best T
Hey Tony, thanks for the tip buddy... I saw the copper inserts on the list, and they galvanised ones too, seems like they properly cater for every need! Catch up with you soon when you get back... D&Px
Moonfleet41 Hi Del and Penny forgot to say welcome back to the garage 😊🍾
@@tonymartin3780 Hey Tony, thank you, life has been pretty hectic for me with work and family, but it was good to be back! PPx
Much better system for sure, thanks for the review, looks like a great product.
Thanks for showing that. Wurth's makes top gear
So glad you learned the joy of timeserts Del. I love those things! I never use helicoils because I’ve never had anything but bad experiences with them. Small advice: if you want to make sure they never come out ever then use some high strength red threadlocker on the outside of it before you wind it in. I always do that after a test fit to make sure it won’t come out, but I don’t use wurth timeserts so they don’t have the expansion end.
What brand do u use ?
@@florida9119There are various brands so it’s really hit or miss. But I try to use the time sert branded packs. Original versions are always better sometimes.
Great to see you back penny. Would love to see a torque test on that see how much it would take before stripping compared to the coil. Great as usual keep it and always watching and liking....
Excellent !!
i have always cringed when i have stripped a bolt. since i have been watching i don't feel as helpless now. nice :) thanks man.
Sure thing buddy, it was always a stressful thing, but with kit like this available, it's just a mild irritation!
Nice to know stuff like this is available, good vid Del, nice to hear PP back 👍
Thanks, can't wait until my next screw up.
Carl, just journeying through.
Great to see this step by step wurth sell nothing but quality and I have now switch everything to them they also sell WD40 equivalent but better it's called ultra 2040. Just a heads up now you have turned to wurth you wont go back lol. Keep up the good work Del.
Thank you my friend, I totally agree, I started using Wurth Dry Chain Lube many years ago, and it sold me on the quality of their products... got some great products to use in the garage coming up, things that will really help improve the projects... have a good weekend, many thanks, Del
Hey up bud another great vid only problem is another bloody tool to buy 😀bet your glad the boss is back to keep you in line
Hi penny welcome back
Sure thing mate, more strings to ya bow aye?! And yep, good to have the management back on deck!!
Very informative, thank you for that.
Great Video & a great bit of kit & well executed Del great to see penny back 👏👏👌🏻👍
Cool kit but how will you cut the step in the head stock , wont go through the clearance hole will it ?
Yep, neither will the flange that the step is meant to accommodate. Just sayin'.
Such an important topic..thanks delboy...I use the smallest amount of leverage ever on a motorcycle fasteners especially in aluminum ..."descretion is the better part of valour "
I used timeserts in the 70s and on. I tried a helicoil once and found it to be ridiculous. So yea, timeserts have always been the way to go. Yes, I was an auto mechanic and shop owner.
Looks more trust worthy than the helicoil.
Good review.
Take care
Dieter
Totally agreed get the right tool to do the job even if you use it only once a year.Money well spent.
Can you film the repair Del on mate's bike ?
great little video.
I bet ya take more than 4 minutes doing ya mates front forks😂😂 👍 kinda nice seeing a tool review again, it’s breaks things up a bit. Good video Team D&P
Thanks mate, haven't done one for a while as we just want to keep it to relevant things that really would get you out of trouble and in my view, are worth the money... glad you enjoyed!
Exellent demostration my friend 😗😗😗👌👌👌👌
Yep these are great, ive been using them for years. They work well with magnesium gearbox cases.
Great video Del. Penny, nice to hear your voice again!
So how might you do a pinch bolt hole where the threads don't start until way down the shaft? You couldn't drill that special shoulder hole unless you enlarged the whole bore all the way down...
Yeah, its a thread down inside a clearance hole.. pretty unique.. but its not vital that it sits totally flush like in an engine casing as there is a gap in the yoke slot to accommodate it... you can tap the flange flatter against the surface by about 50% of its thickness..so it'll be fine as the gap is 3mm when bolted up tight. Thanks for your support John, and Penny says hi.
Another helpful video, thanks so much for sharing. Had 3 bikes stolen in the past. Last one was last year in oxford. What about making a video how to wire and fit a secret kill switch ? 😂🤣😃
Chrisfix has a good video on this for a car, however the concept is the same
Clever Tool Somewhat similar to the Keenserts we occasionally have to use at work, though there bloody expensive £4-5 a piece compared to helicoils. These are Much better than a helicoils IMO as you don't risk the coil skipping a thread when inserting them the inserts all one piece. Luckily we've never had a helicoil breakup but I can imagine it'd be a pain.
Big fan of Wurth products. Particularly their dry chain lube. Not always the cheapest. But if it does the job right, first time; then money well spent. Have a great weekend.
One of the great experiments.....i want timesert for my vw polo tsi block.....where can I buy?
just had my spark plug blow out and knacker half the thread in the head then to make it home I had to force the plug back in finishing the job so now I need something like this doing or a second-hand head whichever is the cheaper good video Del
This will be prefect mate, they do a copper plated insert for spark plug holes, but I would obviously recommend taking the head off, if you can, as you will inevitably drop debris down in to the cylinder... should be a good sound fix, and way stronger than a helicoil.
@@Moonfleet41 cheers Del I think I may do it this way but if poss ill leave the head in situ and try it old school and do the job the with the piston at TDC and just vacuum the shavings out
@@ipaddy Hi Patrick, scroll down and check David Stevenson's advice below on fixing a plug hole in situ, he advises both valves closed and thick grease to catch any swarf.. check out his channel as well, he's a very experienced engineer, and wisely sage.
Thats a nifty trick!
I wonder if it could be used in working with wood?
Mounting a fixing similar to that allows a bolt to do and undo but strong enough to last.
You can get similar screw in threaded inserts for wood, and in different sizes 👍
Thank you for a fine presentation, The coefficient of expansion for aluminum is about two times greater than steel; does that pose a problem for repairing spark plug holes?
It's tough to know for sure whether time-sert is better than helicoil. A possible benefit of helicoil is that because it is a wire, it can move to compensate for where there is more pressure whereas a solid piece may not. The solid insert will put more pressure on some turns of the newly-cut aluminum thread than others since the insert threads and the newly cut threads will not be perfectly matched. There is a YT channel that compares helicoil to time sert with destructive test. When testing these different methods you also have to equalize the length of the inserts.
great vid
Yes I would like to see del do his mates bike
I'd have been tempted to lubricate the outside threads of the bushing and the inside of the newly tapped thread with a high strength Loctite.
You could do that, it certainly wouldn't be wrong, however the thread sert design has the tapered applicator tool that physically forces the insert out at the bottom of the parent thread and jams it solid, metal to metal... so if you did use some threadlock, then a very tiny amount only as there's not much room in there when the design makes it an interference fit.
I use loctite to glue this inserts. Work perfect. I had helicoil failing in me few times
"that fateful feeling when it goes soft". - Every mans nightmare
What an elegant solution!
Nice, clear demo too. 👍
Now, where did I put my Xmas list.....
(PS. Hello Penny! 👋)
Hi Keith, sure thing, get it on the list, won't be long away ha ha! And PP says Hi back, catcha soon buddy!
Now that's a useful kit. Thanks for introducing it. I see a lot of nifty stuff out there but it really helps if someone actually shows me how to use it properly. Just one question: what happens in terms of rusting if you mix two metals, in this case aluminium and steel? I mean long term ofc, copper grease? Please feel free to tell me it's a stupid question but I proclaim ignorance here. Nice to hear Penny's voice again! :) Best wishes to you both and a have a good weekend!
I was wondering what about different expansion rates too.
Just reading all the previous comments to see if my question was already posted.
Rgds from St Africa
Clive
@@clivegreenall309 You use a little oil. I don't know what allow the insert is, but it is probably less corrosive
Rapid solution just 4 minute to apply 👍
Screwing a steel insert into aluminium we would coat the insert with a dissimilar material compound to prevent galvanic corrosion from occurring.
I wonder if the bushing inserted with red locktite, instead of oil, would provide an additional level of security??
Good video
Ah the old lifesaver, they come in so many forms but so valuable when you Gooch a customer's car,bike,guitar,lawnmower,antique 16" desk fan , vacuum cleaner , roller coaster, millennium bridge , tricycle .............
Yep got them T shirts 😁🤘🏻
Lovely to see/hear you both have a great weekend 👍🏻☮❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks so much for sharing this Del. I really like this an an alternative to traditional Helicoil. It would be an interesting test (since you've have a couple made-up in your test-piece) to get a torque wrench out and just test how much it takes to now damage/strip one of these. Perhaps compare to the force required to strip the aluminum.
What if the thread inserts don't go all the way in? Can they be removed?
Yes Maxwell, as long as you did not twist the applicator tool all the way through which expands and locks the insert.. it can still be unscrewed.... but if you did expand the insert fully, then the best way to remove it is to thread a bolt into it with some red locktite, then after a few minutes it will lock solid, and you can unscrew the bolt bringing the insert with it.! Good luck hope that helps.
cant see that working on a blind hole,as in my fiesta 1.4tdci, that has pulled the thread out of the injector hold down bolt... that aside. great video..
Super strong magnets stuck to your vice .
Great video Del (and Penny), go on, you've just got to try the threads with a torque wrench. Thanks! :)
Getting ready to do a valve cover but its at an angle and if i mess up NEW HEAD😐😐😐
Good luck buddy, take time, be calm, and you'll nail it. !
On those thread repairs, the lube I use is threadlocker... stops any chance of them coming back out when it sets.
How you going to get the undercut tool into the top yoke? Personally never had a problem with helicoils.
I'm going to try this on a potential motorcycle deal and drive it back home 400km
Would the addition of thread-locker (red) to the bushings outer threads be worthwhile?
Few people have asked that, it's a common sense question, but there's nothing advising it in the instructions, in fact, quite the opposite... they advise a little oil in to the area when inserting the time sert, the design involves winding the insert tool down through the bushing which physically expands it out to jam against the parent metal, and it's really tight once it's in, I imagine the pressure would push out any liquid threadlock or worse still prevent the bushing from expanding properly to it's full size, meaning the intended bolt would be tight when you wind it in... just following the instructions here today, it went in a dream and was rock solid, so it seems ok.
I bought a similar long length version that had copper inserts but it saved me big time, repaired a sparkplug hole in a 2005 GSXR 600. Everyone quoted me for a full engine rebuild but I said screw that. The kit I bought was around 200$.
How did it hold up ? I'm in the same scenario in a couple of days... :(
I had some helicoil on my 125cc motorcycle cylinder head and i say its very durable i place it 5 years ago
Would it work on a dead end hole as well
Yes indeed Mitchell, you can fit these in blind holes too.!
I need this kit for a 10 mm bolt where can I buy it from
Have you seen a bulls eye spirit level? Carefully araldite one onto the head of your tap wrench, making sure the moving jaw still can, and you will never have to worry about about pissed threads again.
Good plan, I've got a little 2" long magnetic level for the top of a tap wrench, same principle I guess, as long as you're working head flat in a vice aye?!
Hi mate ne here ..had a hg bolt yield and break recently on the 1400 ..git 3d on order git 2.5d . Many suggest heli are strong enough ..on brief inspection coil seems OK but Nedd to have a more thorough look ..was some shavings in there which is odd. Wondering why this has happened ? Felt like throwing it through the window at the time
Now let’s see how it works on a steel block while in car lol 😂 cool tool but I have never had an issue using helicoil
Helicoils are a trusted household name and there's no denying that they work, but am sure you'll agree, that a solid, stainless steel tube is gonna be a better insert than a coil of wire... and as reliable as helicoils are, they can fail on busy threads that come in and out a lot, like spark plugs and sump plugs, specially if they're over tightened or the wrong bolt is used.. for instance, a metric inserted where an imperial is needed, fastest way to chew up a helicoil.
Lovely