One way that I like to visualize this comparison is just by focusing on the number of sides of the nut. As you increase the number of sides, you begin to approach as shape that more closely resembles as a circle. A circle will have minimum resistance to rotational force. Therefore, I always rationalized that increasing the number of sides will make it less resistant to torque. Through this logic, fewer sides (a square) will perform better as a captive nut than one with more sides (a hexagon).
@@octimus2000 that's why we print them ;) Seriously we should start producing them, we would kill the hex nut... if there was no issue with the triangular wrench.. lol! Good for sockets but I can't imagine a functionnal triangular open key/wrench.. square is best
@@anthonythibodeau81 That is a good idea, but they would only serve the 3D market more or less... Also the nut isn't the issue here, its the material that braces/locks it into place, which is the 3D material!
Hard to follow because his English isn't that good I mean I'm not a native speaker myself but I know 12 year olds* who can express themselves better in English edit: just to clarify *non native 12 y olds
You can also force a nut into a tight pocket by using a screw that, as it rotates it will create a force in the axial direction, pulling the nut inside of the pocket. A washer on the other side will protect the plastic part from excessive stress from the bolt head pulling action.
FINALLY someone who compares the two! i've been telling my 3dp friends about using square nuts because they're so much better (to no avail). Now I'll link to this video as evidence!
Agree with everything here. I reached the same conclusions stupid, time wasting methods. I print all my embedded nuts just like he did, with a pause and a 1 layer bridge. It's so much easier when you have a part with 15 nuts and you don't have to worry about them sliding out of their slots. It's amazing too how hex nuts will spin in almost anything. I've even had square nuts start to spin in TPU parts when I'm not careful. Great work, especially with the section analysis. It took me so long to nail this down on my own, I wish there was something like this to watch when I was pulling my hair out.
I love these videos because when I start watching them I have questions however, before I can ask them you already answer them by the end! Please keep up the great videos
Fantastic video. Thank you for putting in the effort to not only test the actual parts, but also analyzing theoretical scenarios. Cheers! You've earned a sub
Dropping nuts into vertical slots after printing, you have further bonus with square nuts of being able to engage 3/4=75% (3/4) of its sides, versus only 4/6≈67% with hexagonal nuts. However, the downside for square nuts in this case I think is that there's a concentration of shear and pulling forces edge focused down onto a single layer in the corners, whereas hex nuts distribute the stress more widely across layer lines. Edit: Ah! You cover this at 12:34. I like that you mention too getting the sharp cornered square nuts. I haven't been able to find quality ones of them though. All the ones I find are crudely clipped, off-square, and with holes that aren't centered. That means I end up needing to design with slop in either the screw hole or in the nut slot, so I often end up just using my better machined hex nuts anyway.
Note: Metric square nuts have DIN 557 and DIN562 - 557 are thicker. In general I really like if people just give me the DIN or ISO numbers for screws and parts in builds. It makes finding the right parts SO much easier than "use square nuts". You can find them in any online store, Aliexpress etc. easily by their numbers and not spend half an hour trying to figure out which of the dozens of variations of nuts has to be used to fit into that pocket.
Very wonderful comparations,it's so common sense of course,the less corners or like star shaped grooves will always be better for full torque than a more of a circular shaped bolt or nut.
in addition you could take 1/8" (3mm) metal bar and tap-drill threads into a length to make a nut-plate and basically exceed the torque ratings of the threads and/or be able to generate much higher clamping force on your plastic, to the point of crushing the parts. Hope this is helpful.
Most plastic component joining with fasteners doesn't require a "death-torque" anyways. Just getting it snug will do. Think about how most appliances go together with stuff like this, if you went all out tightening the screw that goes into some nut on your desk fan, you'd break it. Keeping that in mind, using the more common fastener would often do. (But I suppose using the square nut or bolt would be handy for some edge cases.)
In most cases you are right. So far I had only one project, where I needed very big torque with insert. Here I used a nut with insert to create something like butterfly nut, so I don't need a wrench (M8 and M10). And in combination with washer, the maximal torque was the limit for this joint. 100% infill can handle very big compression tension.
Sacrificial layers can indeed be useful - though Vector 3D has a video showing an alternative solution that he found from the Prusa i3 MK3 design files, and which doesn't require the post-processing step of removing the sacrificial material :) ruclips.net/video/IVtqAn4oDDE/видео.html
At 11:10 you explain that you add bridging layer for horizontal embedded nut during layer-print-pause, because in CAD cross-section, it looks like you're printing in thin air. However it seems unnecessary, as the nut itself will serve as support material. Or what happens?
The problem is during 3D printing. Bridging requires two points to be connected, but here the printing would start bridging and then "stop" in air where the hole is. That's why I use here that sacrifice layer mentioned in video. Later, when plastic is solid, there is no problem with it any more. Create a similar object, and watch the printing simulation in some slicer, and you will understand what I am talking about.
@@MyTechFun When the nut is there, it's within 0.2mm of the layer being printed, so there is no bridging, you're printing on top of the nut instead of on top of the plastic. Bridging is like printing on top of thin air, but there's not air there, there's already a nut, inserted during pause command. Not sure why i should watch simulation, i know what failed bridging/bad overhang looks like, because... of course i sometimes design and print things that i intend to print with supports, and then idiot me forgot to enable supports. But when the nut is inserted mid print, the top of the hole is supported by the nut when printed.
@@SianaGearz In this video I am talking about nuts as 3D printing inserts, you add them AFTER you finished the printing. During printing nut is not in the object.
@@MyTechFun But at this timestamp, there is no access hole through which you could install the nut after printing :D You have shown both constructions with an embedded nut and with a nut insert space :D I know i'm nitpicking, and i don't really have a real point, but it's a bit funny that you forgot what you did mere weeks ago... OK it's probably not fair, i often forget what i did an hour ago. :D But i sometimes wanna be THAT person on the Internet you know?
@@SianaGearz Oh, yes, that's inprint, you are right, must be my age.. forgot things. Or maybe my 3 work places and 3 daughters.. There is a chance that your idea would work to use a nut to support that bridging, not sure, I didn't tried that method yet. It will be interesting thing to test.. Thanks for the suggestion.
i usually do a triangle hole on one side like with a hex nut when i do a square nut to solve the over hang problem that or leave the to empty i mean you can always insert it then glue in a plug for snuggly fit all sides
@@MyTechFun hmm.. wasn't aware there where triangle nuts but that has to have the best surface area.... other then say a rectuagular nut that elongaded...but that would probably be wasteful of space..
You are very seriously and academically approaching the topic 3D printing, I like it! :) Really helps a lot getting the most out of it, thanks a lot man! 1 more Like and 1 more Subscription!
Square & Rectangle nuts for inserts are superior, that much is obvious. I also would assume the inprint method of installing them would be the strongest. Although, it is the hardest to put into practice. I wonder how much stronger inprinting is over the other 2. For example, is it much much stronger because it is surrounded by much more material? Or is it only slightly stronger? In which case not worth the extra effort to invest in doing. I would love to see a test of that.... Inprint vs. pocket vs. surface...
In this video I was only comparing these two nuts. Threaded inserts are good if you only want to joint objects only once. If you want real non permanent joint (like gopro mount), then metallic inserts are better. In near future I will test 3D printed bolts, nuts.. only to finish exams on my primary workplace ;-)
Awesome video! would have been nice to see those examples at the end printed and tested to failure, just for that "real world" results :) Subbed! look forward to more content!
Nylon is good for technical parts, only problem is hard to print. Biggest problem is the moisture, it has to be very dry, enclosure recommended, use glue for better adhesion to bed.. PC is also good (will ve a video about it soon)
@@MyTechFun after i wrote my initial comment I saw the experiment you made in your car and oven with a lot of plastics, including nylon. I heard it was really hard to print as you said. I was wondering if it was worth it. I think I would need to mod my CR10 with better hot end.. Anyway, thanks for the reply and for all this data, it's really usefull for a lot of makers all around !
Great experiments ! I have watched another of your 3d printed strenght video and now I have to watch the whole series ! Very usefull informations ! Do you have a video where you summarize all your results on strenght ? I feel like theses informations should be included into the next version machinery's handbook ! Thanks 4 sharing !
Good idea. First I have to finish some experiments (preparing bolts from 5-6 different materials). After that I will create a summary video about these materials..
I might’ve missed it but were the two nuts the same thickness? Also, the nuts could’ve been initially tightened to a higher torque so there would be no further tightening during the test making it easier to determine the yield load.
Same thickness, I forgot to mention. About tightening, M5 bolt is not too strong. I was stronger (with wrench) than threads on it on my first experiment. I tried to tight metallic nuts as much as possible. Threads were sheared.
It would probably be more useful to calculate not the nuts themselves, but the strength of the recesses. The plastic parts will always have inferior strength to the metal, and rounded shapes run a great risk of deforming parts and spinning in place.
Star shaped nuts? Not too standard ;-) Using them as 3D printing inserts.. theoretically yes, they are good for big torque, but in smaller dimensions (M3, M4 maybe M5) most common nozzle (0.4mm) will result only 1-2 perimeters between star tentacles and that will be a week point.
Based on your observation- it seems that a triangle nut would enable the greatest torque- is this a logical conclusion? If so, why do you suppose these are not commonly used in industry?
Theoretically yes, triangles would be greatest for torque, but in most cases this joint will fail on pulling force, so square screw nuts are good enough to handle that torque and they have bigger contact area then triangles (of course, depend of the size). And don't mix industrial use and use as 3D printing inserts.
Nice explanation. I would have thought the shape furthest from a circle would be more difficult to deform the shape it's set it. So going by this theory star nuts should deform the shape and slip less. Can you test this?
I don't have star screw nuts, they are not standard. And using them as 3D printing inserts.. theoretically yes, they are good for big torque, but in smaller dimensions (M3, M4 maybe M5) most common nozzle (0.4mm) will result only 1-2 perimeters between star tentacles and that will be a week point. Go with rectangles if you need something better than square version.
Not really surprising as that is not the primary use of normal hexagonal nuts. They are designed not to apply rotational forces but longitudinal - along the rod. Hexagonal nuts are a bit easier for handling (easier to get the tool aligned and lower angles needed to reset the tool) while also providing a higher force per area. Square nuts offer higher torque and and self-bite into the material. Different use cases, different nuts. But in general, if the torque is sufficient i would go with the hexagonal nut - more widespread, cheaper.
In general I agree. But as 3D printing inserts, you don't need a tool for a nut. Only with those pocket inserts I wouldn't go with hex. In other cases, hexagonal will do the job too
During the electronic scale test, how come the hexagonal was double the torque before stripping the hole when we calculate the square version to be higher than hex in theory??
Did you confuse the two? At 6:43, the hexagonal nut was measured to skip at 3.5Nm, and at 7:36, the square nut was measured to skip at 6.3Nm. I would say that's a pretty close match to the theoretical result at 5:21 indicating the square nut would hold about twice the torque.
Why couldn't hexagonal nut insert in builtin printing in vertical position early then square nut? It can be hexagonal inner builtin printing. Pentahedral as inverse house doesn't need, and it can let to increase torgue.
Inserting hex nut in vertical position? You can't close the hole, nozzle will hit the hex nut. Or hole starts closing, then you can't insert hex nut any more.
Depend of the glue. In my case, glue only holds it to prevent falling out. But there are strong glues too, to fix against rotation (polyurethane base glue)
Not dumb question, I got several similar comments. In torque test they would perform even better, but they are not standard, you can't buy them and there is no key for them to use in other projects, you can use them only as inserts.
www.convertunits.com/from/newton-meter/to/kg-cm As per above converter it is saying 6Nm is 61 kg-cm but you video shows that it broke at 3 kg. Is the conversion correct
In theory, they would be better for torque transmitting, but I suggest rectangular ones, if you will need to use it with wrench (as inserts you don't need a 🔧)
@@MyTechFun Years ago, my friend invented a car with square wheels. I told him that it was completely stupid because it was too bumpy and that it could have triangle wheels instead; one less bump as it turned.😃😁
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
One way that I like to visualize this comparison is just by focusing on the number of sides of the nut. As you increase the number of sides, you begin to approach as shape that more closely resembles as a circle. A circle will have minimum resistance to rotational force. Therefore, I always rationalized that increasing the number of sides will make it less resistant to torque. Through this logic, fewer sides (a square) will perform better as a captive nut than one with more sides (a hexagon).
Maybe triangular nuts?
@@desparky I thought the same but those are extremely difficult to get
@@octimus2000 that's why we print them ;)
Seriously we should start producing them, we would kill the hex nut... if there was no issue with the triangular wrench.. lol! Good for sockets but I can't imagine a functionnal triangular open key/wrench.. square is best
@@anthonythibodeau81 That is a good idea, but they would only serve the 3D market more or less... Also the nut isn't the issue here, its the material that braces/locks it into place, which is the 3D material!
@@desparky How about Torx nuts!
He knows what he is taking about. Pleasure to watch. Thank you.
After watching i instantly subscribed, liked video and save it ... thanks man!
Hard to follow because his English isn't that good
I mean I'm not a native speaker myself but I know 12 year olds* who can express themselves better in English
edit: just to clarify *non native 12 y olds
@@mihailazar2487 Its quite easy to follow, maybe its harder because you are not a native speaker.
Thanks for doing the test Igor. This was just common sense for me.
You can also force a nut into a tight pocket by using a screw that, as it rotates it will create a force in the axial direction, pulling the nut inside of the pocket. A washer on the other side will protect the plastic part from excessive stress from the bolt head pulling action.
It's also worth noting that square insert holes are faster and easier to design than hexagonal holes.
Watching from Mexico. Excellent video, it's very useful to take design decisions while I'm printing parts. Please continue with the same topics.
Wonderful, I always suspected this was the case but it is great to see it scientifically confirmed ! Many thanks and take care
because of this I ordered square nuts! thanks!
Order some rectangle nuts too ;-)
Where did you order your nuts from?
a great presentation. The engineering procedure is worth as much as the details about the problem. Thank You.
Big thanks from Argentina, thorough and clear explanation
FINALLY someone who compares the two! i've been telling my 3dp friends about using square nuts because they're so much better (to no avail). Now I'll link to this video as evidence!
Wow, your friends are daft.
It's literally common sense and logic that a square nut would be better embedded in plastic than a rounder one.
@@dangerous8333 I'm inclined to agree lmao
I just ran into this problem with hexagonal nut inserts, your video has been so insightful, thanks a ton!
Agree with everything here. I reached the same conclusions stupid, time wasting methods. I print all my embedded nuts just like he did, with a pause and a 1 layer bridge. It's so much easier when you have a part with 15 nuts and you don't have to worry about them sliding out of their slots. It's amazing too how hex nuts will spin in almost anything. I've even had square nuts start to spin in TPU parts when I'm not careful. Great work, especially with the section analysis. It took me so long to nail this down on my own, I wish there was something like this to watch when I was pulling my hair out.
I love these videos because when I start watching them I have questions however, before I can ask them you already answer them by the end! Please keep up the great videos
Thank you for this approachable but in depth test, very well done and you have a new fan here!
That was well done and structured!
Fantastic video. Thank you for putting in the effort to not only test the actual parts, but also analyzing theoretical scenarios. Cheers! You've earned a sub
Dropping nuts into vertical slots after printing, you have further bonus with square nuts of being able to engage 3/4=75% (3/4) of its sides, versus only 4/6≈67% with hexagonal nuts. However, the downside for square nuts in this case I think is that there's a concentration of shear and pulling forces edge focused down onto a single layer in the corners, whereas hex nuts distribute the stress more widely across layer lines.
Edit: Ah! You cover this at 12:34. I like that you mention too getting the sharp cornered square nuts. I haven't been able to find quality ones of them though. All the ones I find are crudely clipped, off-square, and with holes that aren't centered. That means I end up needing to design with slop in either the screw hole or in the nut slot, so I often end up just using my better machined hex nuts anyway.
Note: Metric square nuts have DIN 557 and DIN562 - 557 are thicker. In general I really like if people just give me the DIN or ISO numbers for screws and parts in builds. It makes finding the right parts SO much easier than "use square nuts". You can find them in any online store, Aliexpress etc. easily by their numbers and not spend half an hour trying to figure out which of the dozens of variations of nuts has to be used to fit into that pocket.
Like for the explanation of washers purpose!
Super video. Very easy to understand and proved without doubt scientifically. Brilliant!!
This was very informal and on the point. Thank you for making this! I learned a lot!
I'm curious about triangle nuts now.
Very wonderful comparations,it's so common sense of course,the less corners or like star shaped grooves will always be better for full torque than a more of a circular shaped bolt or nut.
Yes, but not always less corner is better. Soon I will compare triangle vs rectangle screw nuts to explain the details.
@@MyTechFunTotally get ya, Even I was always thinking of triangulation type bolts or construction screws sure would be extraordinary lol.
A very good comparison. I learnt some new ways of using both hex and square nuts 👍😎🇦🇺
in addition you could take 1/8" (3mm) metal bar and tap-drill threads into a length to make a nut-plate and basically exceed the torque ratings of the threads and/or be able to generate much higher clamping force on your plastic, to the point of crushing the parts. Hope this is helpful.
Yes, helpful. It looks like I have to repeat the test with some rectangle and triangle nuts too (according to some comments) ;-)
My Tech Fun could you also try wing nuts? Should be able to get a ton of torque out of those.
Great practical science! Thanks for taking the time to create this demonstration. Subscribed from Australia 🇦🇺😃
Most plastic component joining with fasteners doesn't require a "death-torque" anyways. Just getting it snug will do. Think about how most appliances go together with stuff like this, if you went all out tightening the screw that goes into some nut on your desk fan, you'd break it. Keeping that in mind, using the more common fastener would often do. (But I suppose using the square nut or bolt would be handy for some edge cases.)
In most cases you are right. So far I had only one project, where I needed very big torque with insert. Here I used a nut with insert to create something like butterfly nut, so I don't need a wrench (M8 and M10). And in combination with washer, the maximal torque was the limit for this joint. 100% infill can handle very big compression tension.
Great analysis! BTW that layer that you're putting in your designs is called a sacrificial bridge. In end, it is sacrificed...
Thanks. I am very happy when I get useful comments like this one
Sacrificial layers can indeed be useful - though Vector 3D has a video showing an alternative solution that he found from the Prusa i3 MK3 design files, and which doesn't require the post-processing step of removing the sacrificial material :) ruclips.net/video/IVtqAn4oDDE/видео.html
Very well done video, thanks for sharing the methodology as well as the conclusions!
At 11:10 you explain that you add bridging layer for horizontal embedded nut during layer-print-pause, because in CAD cross-section, it looks like you're printing in thin air. However it seems unnecessary, as the nut itself will serve as support material. Or what happens?
The problem is during 3D printing. Bridging requires two points to be connected, but here the printing would start bridging and then "stop" in air where the hole is. That's why I use here that sacrifice layer mentioned in video. Later, when plastic is solid, there is no problem with it any more. Create a similar object, and watch the printing simulation in some slicer, and you will understand what I am talking about.
@@MyTechFun When the nut is there, it's within 0.2mm of the layer being printed, so there is no bridging, you're printing on top of the nut instead of on top of the plastic. Bridging is like printing on top of thin air, but there's not air there, there's already a nut, inserted during pause command. Not sure why i should watch simulation, i know what failed bridging/bad overhang looks like, because... of course i sometimes design and print things that i intend to print with supports, and then idiot me forgot to enable supports.
But when the nut is inserted mid print, the top of the hole is supported by the nut when printed.
@@SianaGearz In this video I am talking about nuts as 3D printing inserts, you add them AFTER you finished the printing. During printing nut is not in the object.
@@MyTechFun But at this timestamp, there is no access hole through which you could install the nut after printing :D You have shown both constructions with an embedded nut and with a nut insert space :D I know i'm nitpicking, and i don't really have a real point, but it's a bit funny that you forgot what you did mere weeks ago... OK it's probably not fair, i often forget what i did an hour ago. :D But i sometimes wanna be THAT person on the Internet you know?
@@SianaGearz Oh, yes, that's inprint, you are right, must be my age.. forgot things. Or maybe my 3 work places and 3 daughters.. There is a chance that your idea would work to use a nut to support that bridging, not sure, I didn't tried that method yet. It will be interesting thing to test.. Thanks for the suggestion.
Great video as always
Nice intro of torque vs. Areas
Thanks for sharing👍😀
i usually do a triangle hole on one side like with a hex nut when i do a square nut to solve the over hang problem that or leave the to empty i mean you can always insert it then glue in a plug for snuggly fit all sides
I will test triangle nuts too, just for fun and curiosity
@@MyTechFun hmm.. wasn't aware there where triangle nuts but that has to have the best surface area.... other then say a rectuagular nut that elongaded...but that would probably be wasteful of space..
fantastic video and a great analysis. Thank you.
Great vid! A suggestion, show a chart in the end!
Great idea, I will do that in future where makes sense.
Very good video! Thank you for all the answers...
Another factor is the print fill, which I am assuming it was on full?! Also what is the yellow plastic "washer" @13:34?
That's just a 3D printed nut from flexible material, so I don't need open-end wrench to tight that bolt. (and yes, max infill)
You are very seriously and academically approaching the topic 3D printing, I like it! :) Really helps a lot getting the most out of it, thanks a lot man!
1 more Like and 1 more Subscription!
What if you accounted for the taper into the plastic insert? Would final torque be greater or would the nut slip more easily?
Great tips and tests, thank you!
Thank you for this insight. This was very helpful!
Awesome work!
jó látni egy magyar 3d nyomtatós, DIY csatornát, ráadásul minőségi videókkal. hajrá, csak így tovább :) feliratkozva ;)
Köszi!
Thanks for taking the time to do the math.
Very interesting, there are also rectangular nuts... right, you mention this in the last few seconds of the video
Great explanation! Thanks.
That very useful!!!! Thank you so much!!!
Washers prevent bolts to untie too. That’s why you are using them with 2 metal parts, not to reduce stress like in the case of a wood assembly.
Excellent video, thanks!
great video, thanks for the explanation!
Have you ever tried to glue in the nuts? I have a feeling that this could help quiet a bit.
Square & Rectangle nuts for inserts are superior, that much is obvious. I also would assume the inprint method of installing them would be the strongest. Although, it is the hardest to put into practice. I wonder how much stronger inprinting is over the other 2. For example, is it much much stronger because it is surrounded by much more material? Or is it only slightly stronger? In which case not worth the extra effort to invest in doing. I would love to see a test of that.... Inprint vs. pocket vs. surface...
Very good video. But how do the nuts compare to threaded inserts?
In this video I was only comparing these two nuts. Threaded inserts are good if you only want to joint objects only once. If you want real non permanent joint (like gopro mount), then metallic inserts are better. In near future I will test 3D printed bolts, nuts.. only to finish exams on my primary workplace ;-)
Never thought I would find this video 🤣, thanks man
Nicely explained.
Nice! Thank you for your time!
Awesome Video. Very informative.
Great video, very well explained id always wondered about this. I suppose its why e3d ship square nuts with their hemera.
Awesome video! would have been nice to see those examples at the end printed and tested to failure, just for that "real world" results :)
Subbed! look forward to more content!
It seems obvious square would be better as more material needs to move before the hole is rounded off.
Hexagonal only works well because you can take smaller turns. And that only works with steel that can support the shearing torque of the Hexagon
Did you ever try to print nylon mechanical parts ? I think it's the ultimate material for strenght purpose, am I right ?
Nylon is good for technical parts, only problem is hard to print. Biggest problem is the moisture, it has to be very dry, enclosure recommended, use glue for better adhesion to bed.. PC is also good (will ve a video about it soon)
@@MyTechFun after i wrote my initial comment I saw the experiment you made in your car and oven with a lot of plastics, including nylon. I heard it was really hard to print as you said. I was wondering if it was worth it. I think I would need to mod my CR10 with better hot end.. Anyway, thanks for the reply and for all this data, it's really usefull for a lot of makers all around !
Great experiments ! I have watched another of your 3d printed strenght video and now I have to watch the whole series ! Very usefull informations ! Do you have a video where you summarize all your results on strenght ? I feel like theses informations should be included into the next version machinery's handbook !
Thanks 4 sharing !
Good idea. First I have to finish some experiments (preparing bolts from 5-6 different materials). After that I will create a summary video about these materials..
wow, great video!
I might’ve missed it but were the two nuts the same thickness?
Also, the nuts could’ve been initially tightened to a higher torque so there would be no further tightening during the test making it easier to determine the yield load.
Same thickness, I forgot to mention. About tightening, M5 bolt is not too strong. I was stronger (with wrench) than threads on it on my first experiment. I tried to tight metallic nuts as much as possible. Threads were sheared.
What percent of infill did you use and what type of filament was it?
Oh, I forgot that I didn't include slicer screenshot in video. Prusament PLA, 4 perimeters, 100% infill
@@MyTechFun did you make any offsets for the nut slot?
@@manukrafter8506 0.1mm clearance, it was shown at 5:45
@@SaHaRaSquad thank you. You've helped me a lot!
this is some good science
It would probably be more useful to calculate not the nuts themselves, but the strength of the recesses. The plastic parts will always have inferior strength to the metal, and rounded shapes run a great risk of deforming parts and spinning in place.
Gee, thanks Captain obvious.
what drawing program is that at 4:00
QCAD
Honest question, can you get star shaped nuts? I know this would only really help for surface horizontal or inprint horizontal situations
Star shaped nuts? Not too standard ;-) Using them as 3D printing inserts.. theoretically yes, they are good for big torque, but in smaller dimensions (M3, M4 maybe M5) most common nozzle (0.4mm) will result only 1-2 perimeters between star tentacles and that will be a week point.
Good info
Az elsősegély láda nagyon menő ott a háttérben. :D
What software you use on 3:00 ?
QCAD. But image of nuts is added in video editor (Davinci Resolve)
Thanks. I know that nuts are just pictures inserted
Excellent!
Based on your observation- it seems that a triangle nut would enable the greatest torque- is this a logical conclusion? If so, why do you suppose these are not commonly used in industry?
Theoretically yes, triangles would be greatest for torque, but in most cases this joint will fail on pulling force, so square screw nuts are good enough to handle that torque and they have bigger contact area then triangles (of course, depend of the size). And don't mix industrial use and use as 3D printing inserts.
Nice explanation. I would have thought the shape furthest from a circle would be more difficult to deform the shape it's set it. So going by this theory star nuts should deform the shape and slip less. Can you test this?
I don't have star screw nuts, they are not standard. And using them as 3D printing inserts.. theoretically yes, they are good for big torque, but in smaller dimensions (M3, M4 maybe M5) most common nozzle (0.4mm) will result only 1-2 perimeters between star tentacles and that will be a week point. Go with rectangles if you need something better than square version.
amazing !
Not really surprising as that is not the primary use of normal hexagonal nuts. They are designed not to apply rotational forces but longitudinal - along the rod.
Hexagonal nuts are a bit easier for handling (easier to get the tool aligned and lower angles needed to reset the tool) while also providing a higher force per area. Square nuts offer higher torque and and self-bite into the material. Different use cases, different nuts.
But in general, if the torque is sufficient i would go with the hexagonal nut - more widespread, cheaper.
In general I agree. But as 3D printing inserts, you don't need a tool for a nut. Only with those pocket inserts I wouldn't go with hex. In other cases, hexagonal will do the job too
If I could just get the perfect boolean for each nut, I can automatically include it into any build that requires these joints. : )
Thank-you so much
During the electronic scale test, how come the hexagonal was double the torque before stripping the hole when we calculate the square version to be higher than hex in theory??
Did you confuse the two? At 6:43, the hexagonal nut was measured to skip at 3.5Nm, and at 7:36, the square nut was measured to skip at 6.3Nm. I would say that's a pretty close match to the theoretical result at 5:21 indicating the square nut would hold about twice the torque.
Why couldn't hexagonal nut insert in builtin printing in vertical position early then square nut? It can be hexagonal inner builtin printing. Pentahedral as inverse house doesn't need, and it can let to increase torgue.
Inserting hex nut in vertical position? You can't close the hole, nozzle will hit the hex nut. Or hole starts closing, then you can't insert hex nut any more.
Square nuts exist?!? Mind = Blown !
the big question is what happens when the nuts are glued in, are there any differences?
Depend of the glue. In my case, glue only holds it to prevent falling out. But there are strong glues too, to fix against rotation (polyurethane base glue)
Dumb question, but what about triangular nuts?
Not dumb question, I got several similar comments. In torque test they would perform even better, but they are not standard, you can't buy them and there is no key for them to use in other projects, you can use them only as inserts.
@@MyTechFun Ah, thanks. A lot of times when people are building stuff, I can't help but think "Triangles! Add triangles!" Thanks math class. :P
www.convertunits.com/from/newton-meter/to/kg-cm
As per above converter it is saying 6Nm is 61 kg-cm but you video shows that it broke at 3 kg.
Is the conversion correct
3 kg on 20 cm = 60 kg/cm. If hanging scale would be only 1 cm from center, it would measure 60 kg.
So....we need triangular nuts?
In theory, they would be better for torque transmitting, but I suggest rectangular ones, if you will need to use it with wrench (as inserts you don't need a 🔧)
@@MyTechFun Years ago, my friend invented a car with square wheels. I told him that it was completely stupid because it was too bumpy and that it could have triangle wheels instead; one less bump as it turned.😃😁
Nice tests, I always suspected it, but I've never tested it. Should we start calling you Stefan?
Oh, I forgot to introduce myself, I am not Stefan, I am Igor, and I am also a mechanical engineer only with different haircut ;-)
perfect.
PLA-nál a 60° overhang még bőven jó, ha jó a tárgyhűtés.
PLA siman 75 fokig is. De van olyan ami épp hogy birja a 45-ot
The square nut was likely thinner than the hex nut. Less thickness = less surface area = less torque capability.
You could have fastened the bolt directly to the vise and you'd spare yourself the setup with that L bracket and washer ^^
a week ago i've made a comment on ruclips.net/video/2wRc1KbEAU8/видео.html , asking for also testing square nuts - so thank you for doing it yourself.
Because hex nut the wrench pushes on 3 corners and 2 on square, thats why its not doubled
So triangle nuts will be superior then,..
Probably yes, but hard to buy those and find a wrench (if using is not only as inserts). Better solution are rectangle nuts.
If square is so much better, why are all nuts hex in real life?
They are better only as 3D printing inserts.
square is better