3D Printed Curta Calculator Assembly
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2017
- Assembly of a 3D printed Curta Calculator.
Parts, Bill of Materials (including tools and non-printed parts), and Build manual located at www.thingiverse.com/thing:1943171
Build progress blog at wudev.digitaltorque.com
This is the most impressive amateur 3d print project I have ever seen. This is completely awesome and insane at the same time. Congratulations on both.
Just saw Adam Savage unbox his. You, sir, are an amazing artist/mechanical engineer. This is a thing of beauty and it works like the original. I tip my hat to you! And that box you made for Adam's, is just so fitting and very nicely done too.
Alphasys He didn't make the box. Check the comments of Adam's unboxing.
+The Noobness correct, the box was made by www.etsy.com/shop/cocobolostudio
My son and I are just starting out on this, we have bought an Ender-3 each to get it done in half the time. I own a Curta MKII, this is as close to getting a MKI as I'll ever get! First print - the upper housing in black PLA.
Mind blown. Patience and a good steady hand. Building this must have given you an amazing feeling once you completed it. It's beautiful.
+M3ta7h3ad yes, completing the build was amazing. Particularly getting the paint finished
ur a legend... imagine how crazy this invention was when he first made it
It's just an arithmometer (patented 1820) with two clever simplifications
@@2adamast 'just'
Quite an engineering feat to program the printer . AND build it as well . Displays an incredible understanding of the inner workings of this magnificent machine . Bravo Marcus . B R A V O .
Brilliant design and build, Congratulations!.
I want one now....I saw Adam unbox it and now I can’t stop thinking about getting one or making one...I don’t have a 3D printer though..
I'm gonna build one of these, then use it for a standardized test at school... Hopefully it'll fit in my backpack.
Already started printing the lower housing... Wish me luck!
@@MrWEIRDLEGO How did it go?
I did jokingly bring a mechanical calculator to a primary school standardized math test. No calculators, what about THIS (sadly not a curta)
@@MrWEIRDLEGO did you get it finished?
@@Channel-dp3wc no haha. I still have some of the pieces and I think about continuing it all the time I just never get around to it.
Very nice! I've always wanted a Curta, now I can build my own. Thank you.
You - my man - are a complete and utter genius. Mindblowing job!! Truly inspirational!!!
By the way - I have all 3 original Curtas - the type 1 black, the type 2 black and the type 2 grey. I am now forced to 3D print out your version to own the full set.
+Greg Parker nice! The type 1 actually went through multiple iterations, but it is hard to draw a line between the changes. I think that may have been the cause for some inconsistencies I noticed in the engineering drawings which resulted in a few iterations of my own to get everything right.
WOW!!!!!!!!!!! Saw your post on Tested, Adam Savage
Cool build, smooth as silk too
Excellent work!
Coolness overload.
Haven't even watched it yet, but so glad you uploaded this!
Ok watched it, and omg! This is epic!
Awesome, glad you enjoyed it!
Wonderful Masterpiece!!!
Bravo, Marcus!
Shortly after I heard about your work I happened to see a Kickstarter for the second generation Snapmaker and ordered one just for this. (Still waiting on it due to Covid.) I plan to learn about printing on it and eventually print your files, upgrading the printer if need be.
It’s incredibly generous of you to make your work available to all.
For Curt’s sake, please use a wrench on nuts and hex screws! :)
How insanely cool is this? 😳
This is a master piece.
I would love a light composite metal version of this.
Awesome!
so Impressive!
Imagine cheating on a math test with that.
"Oh fuck I suck at math, I need a calculator"
*Pulls a giant metal cylinder out of his bag.
HE HAS A BOMB! EVACUATE IMMEDIATELY!
@@satibel ooh coffee maker
I LOVE IT ALL!!!
Bellissima!!!!
Fanstastic!!!! sadly my SLA 3D printer is too small to print some parts. I will try to make half size of this calculator.
Seeing this literally makes my heart beat faster!
Thank you Marcus for all your hard work! I am in the process (long term) of making a replica in size 1.2:1 , it will be a hybrid of some mSLA 3D printed parts and some machined/metal parts. Would love to have a online beer with you at some point! :)
It really looks amazing. What did you do for the black finish? It looks so nice!
First of all congratulations, this has to be the greatest uses for an FDM printer I have ever seen. I find the fact of it being a giant curta even cooler. So im commited to print it!
How well calibrated is your printer? Do you think the x3 plus tolerances could account for a little wobble (maybe 0,15mm bow in 1cm)? I really don't want to spend the next month printing it to find out it won't turn!
That's awesome!
Amazing 👌
Awesome project, im 200 hours of printing deep into mine!
I’m thinking of printing one, do you know what settings you used and what type of material?
I used the recommended settings given by the guy who deigned it. I just used hatchbox pla to print it and its turning out great. The only flaws I've had is sometimes the walls of the print will start to jog as the layers build up, but I got a bl touch for my ender 3 and that fixed the problem.
@@kylekirsch6446 Hey starting my build now. How did yours end up turning out?
@bksl09 I ended up running out of time before university, but I learned a whole lot about the sanding, painting, and assembly process. If you have the drive, this is am amazing project to take on. Still fascinated by it and hope to finish mine someday!
That is amazing! How did you do the lettering and black over white? Thanks
well this is awesome. I dont have to buy a curta from ebay for 1.2k now
One day i will make one 💪 gratitude
Amazing
That is very impressive. Thank you for sharing the files you didn't have to. Do you consider making more to sell them?
What a machine.
Hi Macus
I have downloaded your files of the curta from the thingiverse and I find it hard to find someone who has a cutting machine for the spencils for the letters.
I am wondering is it possible or pritical for you to upload a modified version of the parts that needed to put numers and marks on with letters and marks curved in it on the 3d models so it will be lot easier for us to get the numbers and marks on it.
With the difference in the level, the numbers and marks can be easily painted though just filling paint in the grooves though simply using a small brush.
And thanks a lot for your efforts on the curta, it is just amazing.
This build is reasonably insane.
I want one.
I think it'll be expensive.
Surely you will need more than 1kg of pla roll (+ the bolts and balls)
Fantastic work. One question, with a higher resolution 3D printer would it be possible to make a Curta in original size?
I would love to purchase a kit of just the printed parts!
Even in rough form!
I can source all the metal parts, make the springs and do the threading!
I'm a machinist and not all that interested in getting into 3D printing YET but would love to build this................
Great work! Would you be able to provide where you obtained (or made) the numbered input/output wheels? Do you have 3D printer drawings available for the Curta? Thank you!
Wow!
♥
Congratulations, it's fantastic. I collect Curta, I have 19. Please how can I get one of your 3D Short Calculators? Thank you very much
gotta build the calculator
I'm curious as to why you didn't use some threaded rod glued into the plastic rather than using a die to thread the plastic itself. You could also have used heat-set inserts in places instead of tapping and screwing into the plastic. Adding rotary bearings and metal rods to the selector shafts might also be a good idea.
I know these mods might make it a bit less authentic to the real thing, but I think it might improve operation.
In any case, I do plan to be making one of these at some point. Amazing work! If I'm feeling ambitious, I may incorporate a few of my mods.
+Erik Scott some of those changes might make a stronger product, but not all of them are necessary. The biggest problem I have seen is that carries from one digit to another can introduce enough force to bow the transmission shafts which causes a lost results digit turn. This makes subtraction very difficult. Reducing that force is hard. Making the transmission shafts more rigid may require casting them from resin.
Not Kliobyte but Kibibyte
Klio, Mega, Giga, Tera, ect are metric units
Kibi, Megi, Gibi, Tebi, ect are binary units.
The "kibi"s were established only in 1998, so everyone who began using computers before that time uses Kilo- for binary units and knew that there were no round thousands in the digital world.
Do you print screw threads on the various rod ends? Or do you thread them with a die? Same question for holes.
I thread them with a tap & die set for most of them. The thread on the nut that screws onto the bottom of the crank collar and the thread on the carriage cage that fastens to the knurled grip are much larger so I printed those.
Hey marcus wu ! Very nice your project. I've start to conceive my own curta this past year for my final project in my school (college). I've decide to print you're to reverse engineering somme part were i hade somme issu to conceive because i only have somme video and picture to help me in my creation. There are somme parts like the main axle that doesn't turn easily and i habe broken like 4 times the stem drum. Have you somme idea that i can use. I am already printin 100% filling and i am using pla at 200°c and the bed 60°c fan at 100%.
How did it work out
I am having trouble with the placement of the gears on the transmission shaft and the discord link no longer works, is there any way for you to provide a more detailed instruction video/manual, thx.
Amazing!! But on a second thought please hit me up if you think you should own the original one instead of a replica
With where resin printing is at could one effectively shrink this down toward the original scale?
Is this the same one you assembled for adam savage?
+Panther Black yes, it is. The first one I built has not yet been painted and it is partially disassembled waiting for some parts to be reprinted (dropped it off my desk)
Can you buy them and where
Do you sell kits with already printed parts?
With a lot of cheap LCD-based DLP printers available now, do you think we can print this in 1:1 scale?
+PartTimeRonin unfortunately, no. I had a few 1:1 parts printed by shapeways and they are so fragile I am afraid to handle them. I have some other ideas in mind for going 1:1. I think it would require a combination of multiple manufacturing techniques and materials
Just got a 3d printer a couple of months ago and have had an ebay search for curta for ages. Way to expensive to buy a real one. Will be giving this a try once I am happier with the quality of my prints. In the BOM you have some that are recommended to print with a 0.25 nozzle. Would / could it be a good idea to outsource these parts on a SLA printer.
I don't have that small a nozzle so would outsource those bits anyway. Just wondering if having them printed in resin would be better for strength.
This is truly remarkable work.
+Paul Busby there aren't any parts that require a 0.25mm nozzle anymore. I will update the BOM.
oh cool, Are the models different or just everything can be printed in 0.4.
Now I really don't have any excuse. Although i think i can dial in my printer a bit more first
congratulations are there any stl pieces to download?
You can find it in thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1943171
I own a Curta 1 and 2 and was youtubing around to see if there were new video's on the topic. Then The Algorithm proposed your video. Un Bel Lie Va Ble what you did.
Congratulations. I am a lucky owner of an original curta! Unfortunately, the reversing lever is stuck in the upper position. I tried putting HD40 in it but it didn't work. So, I want to disassemble as little as I can to see what is going on and maybe resolve it. From what I have seen here I need to remove parts until I get to 42:18 in reverse. The I would have to remove the lower housing. My question is: how is the lower housing attached to the rest? I can't find how did you do that. Thanks in advance.
Apologies for not responding earlier. I didn't see the comment.
The lower housing slides into place and is held against the frame of the Curta via the bottom plate. That plate is held in place with two M2x18 screws. Assembly order has that being attached before the upper portion. However, those parts can easily be removed without removing the top pieces. Putting them back together can be challenging because the long M2x18 screws can be tough to align blindly. What I do for reassembly is rotate that bottom plate so that you can put one screw in, but can still see the bearing plate. Turn that screw a couple of times so the thread is started, then rotate the bottom plate into place. Now it should be easier to blindly align just one screw since the bottom plate should be correctly aligned to the frame of the Curta. However, keep reading as it is likely you'll need to remove the carriage (paragraph after the next describes that removal).
If the reversing lever is stuck, it is likely caused by one of the turns counter gears getting stuck -- either against the turns counter portion of the step drum or the turns counter portion of the tens bell. By taking the lower housing off, you will be able to see the step drum portion, but not the tens bell portion which handles carries.
To access the tens bell portion, you will need to carefully tap the pin out of the main crank handle. Careful to support the main crank or it will bend! Remove the upper carriage circlip (it's the larger of the two and be careful here as well, these can break), lift away the rings, the spring, and the ball, lift the carriage off, then unbolt the upper sleeve and lift that away. Chances are one of the carry levers is not seated properly (could also be bent or broken) into the gear which interfaces with the tens bell. There is a clip which holds the first lockout in the right place against the tens bell. If that clip came off, that lockout gear might be out of place and prevent movement.
Those are the main problems I can think of that could prevent the reversing lever from moving. Removing the upper carriage portion is risky. Tapping out the pin holding the crank handle on and removing the circlip are the spots most likely to break something. Take photos as you go so you can reference them for reassembly if you need to. If you end up needing to remove any of the shafts, be sure to document the order of them and which parts are matched to which shaft because their order is everything! If you feel uneasy about it, I highly recommend paying for someone to maintenance your Curta.
i know you printed this in PLA, is there any worry about degradation due to humidity? what do you think about using ABS? I just purchased a new printer to tackle this build. really looking forward to it.
I haven't seen any degradation due to humidity. I chose PLA due to its high rigidity. ABS will probably flex a little bit more which will matter for the long transmission shafts. In fact, the PLA isn't even rigid enough to be able to handle subtraction at anything other than a very slow speed. When turning faster, the added friction of cascading carry operations can cause the shafts to bow temporarily and lose a turn.
Would it be feasible to add a hole in the center of the shafts for insertion of metal rods? Or are the cuts and divots too close for that to work?
@@1MBStudios no
I feel like you will start receiving a lot of offers :) only one suggestion would be to ensamble the exterior with gloves to avoid fingerprints and maybe glue some screws to secure them.
Good idea for the gloves if it's mainly for display. I get too excited about it and want to use it too much. I end up handling it and getting fingerprints on it anyway. I suppose I could wear gloves any time I handle it, but that just seems like taking it too far :)
Glue? Get out. Mechanical retention FTW! :P
Did you design all of the parts yourself or were there drawings you copied into cad software? Did you have to make many changes because of the nature of manufacturing you used?
+VS BinarySloth I based all of my work on the original engineering drawings, but those are images. There is no way to import them, so all the CAD work for each part was done by myself.
I did scale it up and I added tolerances to the dimensions based on the engineering codes listed on the dimensions which I had to learn about. Tolerances we're estimated based on some tests I designed and printed.
This project is really cool, good job.
Do you have this STL file? I Want to printing this Curta
Could these files conceivably be scaled down to make a 1:1 metal Curta on a CNC? Could be an interesting project.
+Stephan Brun actually, I did the original models at 1:1, then made a copy of it to add the printer tolerances and scale it up. I think one would need a watchmakers CNC machine to do it by computer control, though. Those aren't cheap.
Marcus Wu If you could manage to produce some in metal with the help of something like that, would some kind of copyright prevent you from selling them? I think they would sell pretty well considering how iconic they are and how expensive an original one is...
@asronome
i'm not a patent lawyer or an expert but i think the "copyright" protection would be a "patent" and i think a patent can only be held for like 20yrs then anyone can use it (i'm not completely sure).... anyways the guy who came up with this is long dead and i don't think the company that originally made these is no longer in business (i'm assuming they went out of business when cheap calculators was introduced)....
Does it have to be that big because of the nozzle size, or did you just decide to make it that big?
The parts inside are small. Some of the gears have walls that are only 0.8mm in size and the gears are very difficult to print at 1:1 because as you've said it's a matter of nozzle size but also the resolution issues of FDM printers
Is it possible to purchase all components as a kit anywhere?
+Kirk Jensen no, not at this time
The long suffering cutting matt
I hope you don't mind the questions. Have you ran into any issues that caused you to have to reprint any of the pieces? Also, what do you think the total amount of time was spent printing this calculator?
No problem with the questions at all.
I did have a few issues with my printer that required reprints. Particularly on the first Curta I printed. On the small parts such as the carry levers and the pins and axles if the extrusion isn't right you'll end up with weak parts that will break. This Curta I had a few issues because I built a new printer and it's the first time I built and calibrated for a bowden extruder.
I ran through the gcode files for all the prints I did for the second Curta and the sum of the estimates was around 9.5 days (assuming non-stop printing which isn't realistic). It actually would have been longer than that due to the estimations not accounting for acceleration.
Another fun fact -- the lower housing is the largest piece and longest print. It took about 60 hours (2.5 days) to complete. That's more than a quarter of the total time for all of the parts.
Unrelated to printer issues, on the first Curta I broke some parts (such as the main axle -- multiple times) due to there being too much friction, misaligned parts, or incorrect assembly. Just making sure parts move smoothly and don't have little burrs or flashing is a big step. After that, a spray on PTFE dry lubricant works wonders -- the plastic kind of grabs other plastic without it.
WOW. Well, it will definitely be a while before I try this project lol.
I understand that trying to operate the printed 1:1 scale model would destroy the pieces, if it were accurately printed to scale. But do you think that the pieces would be able to be printed accurately at a
1:1 scale, so that molds could be made of the pieces?
Also, for general printing; do you have any simple tips for preventing the plastic from clogging? Like, would it be helpful to set the retraction to "off", or to add cooking oil (someone in a forum said that he does that)? I bought about five E3D cheap knock-offs for mine, and installed the one that appeared to be the best quality. My previous set up from the kit would eat into the plastic, so I changed from the direct extrusion over to a bowden set up as well. But I haven't tried it yet. I have to reconfigure the e-steps and adjust the z-axis stopping length for a sheet of builders tak. But if you have any general tips that you've learned from experience, I'd love to hear it.
Oh ok! I've got to find some of that spray.
What I've found for a bowden setup is that all play has to be eliminated from the tube when retracting or it will clog. For direct extrusion if the gear is eating the plastic, you may be printing at too low of a temperature.
hello marcus can you have cad files?
Hellow ,my english is very bad,im's sorry....I want to buy one, may I ask for sale?？？thanks..
great tool, you have just made a calculator a fun object, make it , then you can do the math.
also be a big job getting it through customs, might look like a big grenade though??
20min05secon. What the metal insite this ?
+Kun Nura the spring on the carry lever? It is music wire -- a high carbon steel with high strength and elasticity that is often used for springs
oh, can you show me image that springs and other springs inside the curta ?
p/s: i very very love this this project, but i can't made this, can you sale me this product ?? why you don't put into production this project
I'm in the process of printing one of these. I think it's going to involve at least 150 hours of printing, $60 in hardware (the springs alone are expensive) and much time assembling. Personally I wouldn't sell one for less than $500 even as a hobby.
Have you attempted a 200% Curta?
+Carl Siemens I have not. I think it may be possible with an SLA printer, though. Some fitting tests would be necessary to figure out how to change the tolerances in addition to the scale change.
Marcus Wu
How about going bigger?
+Carl Siemens going bigger is possible. Scaling should be applied to the nominal dimensions and the printer tolerances should be kept without scaling (assuming the parts are still produced by FDM printing).
你好！我是Curta的忠实爱好者！我本人拥有一个CurtaⅡ，非常喜欢你制作的这个Ⅱ，请问你可以出售一个给我吗？大概价格是多少？
How could someone come up with this in a concentration camp?
Ich gerne Bauanleitung. ?
I want so bad
very nice, seen a video: ruclips.net/video/AnTb26WHx2Q/видео.html who does this assembly on the real thing (real size too), he uses some jig blocks to place the assemblies on during the build and has a 'Press" block to do the pins, and a special nut driver for the top number dial and crank assembly, might make your build easier, albeit at a slightly smaller scale, BUT your video makes a great adjunct to this one, as seeing the parts this guy is working on in YOUR projects scale makes for an even greater understanding of how this exquisite machine works!!- just wish you could show the actual 3 D printing of some of these parts and what filament & settings you used.
uch tightening a bolt with a plier...
They'd be perfect for poorer localities where batteries and electricity aren't always readily available, if they could be made inexpensively enough. That's why I also love things like hand crank radios and cellphones, pedal-powered washing machines and such.
I can't stand watching him use needle nose pliers instead of a proper wrench..out of here.
Amazing