Also little tip I’ve learned for the little c clip on the shaft that you bent, if you align it with the open part at the 12 o’clock position, it’ll move itself out the way when you slide the cv axle in and prevent the ends from binding or bending
Great job showing and telling,now I hope I can do my shaft like you did yours I got the 2008 single cab1500 ram .it looks just like yours there you just did,well wish me luck see ya on the next video have a great day see ya bye.
Great job! Somehow I managed to break the housing just below the two mounting bolts to the motor mount. Can’t seem to find a replacement so I guess I’m welding
Make sure you have the bearing inside the large end of that shaft when re assembling! The kit I got off amazon did not have it installed like the one he has. It came with one, but failed to realize I had to press it in. I ended up having to do the job twice. FML
As for the problems people are having removing the front axle shafts to the stub shafts and stubs to the diff being stuck you do know at the end of each stub shaft is a c clip that holds the etub shaft to the cv and diff your best bet is to remove the diff cover so you can compress the c clips and the shaft will come out pretty easy when your pounding the crap out of the cv shaft that wont come out your working against the c clips .
Would this make a shake in the steering wheel or in the front seats. I ask since I’m chasing a shake in the truck that I feel in the front seats. Dealership changed the rear shocks and the drive shaft and it didn’t fix the issue.
If you see the crossmember right behind the right side axle is discolored Then more than likely this is the reason why. I've been chasing a similar issue for a while then finally discovered it
Wow thank you for this video. I thought you had to slip this out take this off pop this off do this and that ect... lastnight i just did both cv axles on my 16 and its still making a clicking noise on the passanger side and was worried there was alot more than 4 bolts 😅 i thought id have to drop the entire diff and deal with that too
I put my new shaft in the freezer, then heated up my original bearing and it dropped right on, but the damn snap-ring will NOT go into the slot above the bearing. It's pissing me off!! Lol
How did you get the CV axle back onto the stub shaft past the snap ring after you bent it back into shape? I'm replacing the CV axle on mine, but for the life of me can't get it back on past the snap ring.
@@hellabomz7697 Yes! I was trying to put it on with the snap ring installed in the CV axle because I didn't want to deform mine the way he did in the video. I wasn't able to get that to work at all so I ended up putting the snap ring on the stub shaft, and I read somewhere that if you orient it so the gap in the ring is facing straight upwards it will work better. I tried that and it took a bunch of attempts, but eventually I got in on. Gotta emphasize though, it took a lot of attempts and was a huge PITA.
@@iBryaaannnn I was trying to put it on with the snap ring installed in the CV axle because I didn't want to deform mine the way he did in the video. I wasn't able to get that to work at all so I ended up putting the snap ring on the stub shaft, and I read somewhere that if you orient it so the gap in the ring is facing straight upwards it will work better. I tried that and it took a bunch of attempts, but eventually I got in on. Gotta emphasize though, it took a lot of attempts and was a huge PITA.
Question for you, what is your gear ratio? My truck is a 3.92,looking on rockauto the right side shaft is listed only for 3.55 and the dealer says the right side is apparently not serviceable and there is no part number for the right side intermediate shaft
I paid 12$ a litre for gear lube,whats it cost in your area? My dodge is an 02,so I dont see any electric actuator shaft shifter on the axle,but I looked under the truck at night on mine from the front! If the 02 does have this,I'd like to know,but I'll have a good look at it later. Good video!
Did this repair hold up? What brand cv axle did you buy? Does the new cv woble or vibrate? I am going to do this on my 2016 ram with 88k miles. Thanks for the video.
Thats great! Just did mine this weekend. Thanms for the video. Used the tracmotive extended travel cv. My kit came with rubber o rings. Not seals. Wasnt sure were they we t but will find out one day.
Was this causing vibration at higheay speeds?? I inspected mine, and i was able to move the axle side to side exposing the splines... it shouldnt be able to move that much right? My truck is vibrating at highway speeds at random, more so i notice if i tend to turn the steering wheel going around a bend or curve.. ive replaced my tie rods thinking it was this. But still having issues please if you can get back to me id appreciate it
There will be some axial movement on the splines but hard to say how much is too much. Vibration is one issue I had. Chased tire balance for a while, but replacing the shaft did help that quite a bit.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but what about the driver side stub shaft? Did you not need both sides done? Is it the same procedure for driver side?
My trucks been making growling noise and shaking a lot when stopping. I replace both front hubs, rotors, brake, both cv axles, and rear wheel bearings to no effect. I noticed when replacing my passenger side cv axle that the seal on the intermediate shaft would oscillate in and out when I turn the wheel. I didn’t think there was too much where on the splines but there’s still a lot of play where the axles and splines mate. When I turn the spline freely without an axle on I didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary. What’s your opinion on this? Do you think I could have a bigger problem or rebuilding the intermediate shaft will fix the problem?
There shouldn't be any extra movement on that intermediate shaft seal. That may be a good place to start with replacing that shaft and the bearings. With a new intermediate shaft and axle shaft mine now has no play at all in the connecting splines next to the inside CV.
The needle bearing at the outboard end of the intermediate shat is just a radial bearing so as long as it still rides on a machined portion of the shaft I don't see how it would be an issue.
I've had a loose axle since I bought it with 70k miles. Now at 125k. A bit looser now. 2 questions: 1.Whats the worse if ignored and splines strip? No 4wd? 2. Why cant I find a reference of anyone greasing the splines as preventative measure?
@@DuDe3810 I found a reference where they grease the splines (Rick Roods Transmission) but thats when used with a rubber boot. My best guess is that the a greased spline , unprotected by a boot, collects dirt and water. I found a passenger boot from Transtar industries, 722N695BT.
Do yourself a favour and spend the extra money to get all of the parts. I did notice he used an impact on the nut for the axle. You need to torque it to spec to prevent premature bearing wear. That’s the most common cause of bearing failure. Good video tho. 👍
Taking this out on an EcoDiesel is s literal bitch. One of the 4 bolts mounting the assembly yo the differential housing is practically inaccessible. 12 mm gear wrench and a prayer to get it out
Sorry, but that seal and bearing should of been changed no matter what you say, just go and get the package and get a refund on your $30 shaft. I just did drivers side and well its open i did whatever was there, ties rods, shaft, sub shaft, wheel bearings.
Don’t change the factory tie rods or wheel bearings or anything if they not worn out. They are the best made and last the longest in my years of experience I’ve seen. I’ve seen factory ball joints go 250,000km. Like on my 2007 Ram. Still zero play.
Also little tip I’ve learned for the little c clip on the shaft that you bent, if you align it with the open part at the 12 o’clock position, it’ll move itself out the way when you slide the cv axle in and prevent the ends from binding or bending
That makes since. Thanks for the tip.
@@hotrodyjno worries man. Thanks for the vid
Great job showing and telling,now I hope I can do my shaft like you did yours I got the 2008 single cab1500 ram .it looks just like yours there you just did,well wish me luck see ya on the next video have a great day see ya bye.
Great job! Somehow I managed to break the housing just below the two mounting bolts to the motor mount. Can’t seem to find a replacement so I guess I’m welding
Make sure you have the bearing inside the large end of that shaft when re assembling! The kit I got off amazon did not have it installed like the one he has. It came with one, but failed to realize I had to press it in. I ended up having to do the job twice. FML
Great video great showing of parts detail .I've seen couple of these and man do we have some butcher's cutting these parts up 🙏
bout to do my 16 eco diesel. very much appreciate the video.
Sur un ecodiesel tu peux pas enlever l’un des écrous sens soulever le moteur
Great video man. And great camera angles.
Decent video on the work…I give it a 3 out of 5 just because you didn’t post a link for one part that was needed.
Are you able to regear these front axles ? Many say you can not but yukon says they have a kit
Thanks for the video, very helpful. 👍👍
As for the problems people are having removing the front axle shafts to the stub shafts and stubs to the diff being stuck you do know at the end of each stub shaft is a c clip that holds the etub shaft to the cv and diff your best bet is to remove the diff cover so you can compress the c clips and the shaft will come out pretty easy when your pounding the crap out of the cv shaft that wont come out your working against the c clips .
Great video. I enjoyed it.
Would this make a shake in the steering wheel or in the front seats. I ask since I’m chasing a shake in the truck that I feel in the front seats. Dealership changed the rear shocks and the drive shaft and it didn’t fix the issue.
If you see the crossmember right behind the right side axle is discolored Then more than likely this is the reason why. I've been chasing a similar issue for a while then finally discovered it
my brake rotor was rusted on and I had to heat it and beat it with a hammer to get it off. was the hardest part of the job hahaha
Wow thank you for this video. I thought you had to slip this out take this off pop this off do this and that ect... lastnight i just did both cv axles on my 16 and its still making a clicking noise on the passanger side and was worried there was alot more than 4 bolts 😅 i thought id have to drop the entire diff and deal with that too
thank you for this video, i need to do this soon.
How did you get the cv axle off the stub to begin with?
Hammer
@ hammer didn’t work. Ended up using a cutoff wheel
I put my new shaft in the freezer, then heated up my original bearing and it dropped right on, but the damn snap-ring will NOT go into the slot above the bearing. It's pissing me off!! Lol
How did you get the CV axle back onto the stub shaft past the snap ring after you bent it back into shape? I'm replacing the CV axle on mine, but for the life of me can't get it back on past the snap ring.
Did you end of finding a solution to your problem?
Update?
@@hellabomz7697 Yes! I was trying to put it on with the snap ring installed in the CV axle because I didn't want to deform mine the way he did in the video. I wasn't able to get that to work at all so I ended up putting the snap ring on the stub shaft, and I read somewhere that if you orient it so the gap in the ring is facing straight upwards it will work better. I tried that and it took a bunch of attempts, but eventually I got in on. Gotta emphasize though, it took a lot of attempts and was a huge PITA.
@@iBryaaannnn I was trying to put it on with the snap ring installed in the CV axle because I didn't want to deform mine the way he did in the video. I wasn't able to get that to work at all so I ended up putting the snap ring on the stub shaft, and I read somewhere that if you orient it so the gap in the ring is facing straight upwards it will work better. I tried that and it took a bunch of attempts, but eventually I got in on. Gotta emphasize though, it took a lot of attempts and was a huge PITA.
Question for you, what is your gear ratio?
My truck is a 3.92,looking on rockauto the right side shaft is listed only for 3.55 and the dealer says the right side is apparently not serviceable and there is no part number for the right side intermediate shaft
I paid 12$ a litre for gear lube,whats it cost in your area?
My dodge is an 02,so I dont see any electric actuator shaft shifter on the axle,but I looked under the truck at night on mine from the front!
If the 02 does have this,I'd like to know,but I'll have a good look at it later.
Good video!
Did this repair hold up? What brand cv axle did you buy? Does the new cv woble or vibrate? I am going to do this on my 2016 ram with 88k miles. Thanks for the video.
Still perfect. I will have to dog back thru my Rockauto history to see what I bought.
Thats great! Just did mine this weekend. Thanms for the video. Used the tracmotive extended travel cv. My kit came with rubber o rings. Not seals. Wasnt sure were they we t but will find out one day.
how long should the job take to do the intermediate shaft ? start to finish by a pro?
Anyone know where I can get the intermediate shaft. With the seal on it??
Hi dose bad intermediate shaft make vibration in the tyer
Love the press!
Nothing better than home-made and hand me down. Built by an old guy way before my time.
Was this causing vibration at higheay speeds?? I inspected mine, and i was able to move the axle side to side exposing the splines... it shouldnt be able to move that much right? My truck is vibrating at highway speeds at random, more so i notice if i tend to turn the steering wheel going around a bend or curve.. ive replaced my tie rods thinking it was this. But still having issues please if you can get back to me id appreciate it
There will be some axial movement on the splines but hard to say how much is too much. Vibration is one issue I had. Chased tire balance for a while, but replacing the shaft did help that quite a bit.
thank you for a great video.
what about the drivers side axle play?
Great job and great video 👍🏽🇺🇸
Thank you
Where did you purchase the new passenger side intermediate shaft
Rockauto.com
Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but what about the driver side stub shaft? Did you not need both sides done? Is it the same procedure for driver side?
I have no issue on the driver side yet. Only passenger was as issue.
My trucks been making growling noise and shaking a lot when stopping. I replace both front hubs, rotors, brake, both cv axles, and rear wheel bearings to no effect. I noticed when replacing my passenger side cv axle that the seal on the intermediate shaft would oscillate in and out when I turn the wheel. I didn’t think there was too much where on the splines but there’s still a lot of play where the axles and splines mate. When I turn the spline freely without an axle on I didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary. What’s your opinion on this? Do you think I could have a bigger problem or rebuilding the intermediate shaft will fix the problem?
There shouldn't be any extra movement on that intermediate shaft seal. That may be a good place to start with replacing that shaft and the bearings. With a new intermediate shaft and axle shaft mine now has no play at all in the connecting splines next to the inside CV.
Hi HotRod YJ, what is the brand of your ball joint press, because mine is bendt ?
Harbor Freight from many many years ago.
I installed the roller bearings at the end of the shaft but It went too deep and it's not flush. Can that cause a problem?
The needle bearing at the outboard end of the intermediate shat is just a radial bearing so as long as it still rides on a machined portion of the shaft I don't see how it would be an issue.
Warning: if you have an ecodiesel, the 4 bolts have 1 impossible one at the top.
Awesome video thanks
@hotrodyj do you have a link to the shaft you purchased?
Rockauto part number NEX12005
I've had a loose axle since I bought it with 70k miles. Now at 125k. A bit looser now.
2 questions:
1.Whats the worse if ignored and splines strip? No 4wd?
2. Why cant I find a reference of anyone greasing the splines as preventative measure?
For some reason it is not recommended by the manufacturer to grease or put anti seize or anything else on the splines. Not sure why though
@@DuDe3810 I found a reference where they grease the splines (Rick Roods Transmission) but thats when used with a rubber boot.
My best guess is that the a greased spline , unprotected by a boot, collects dirt and water.
I found a passenger boot from Transtar industries, 722N695BT.
@@bendayho Oh yeah, that would make sense. If it's greased and open, the grease would trap grit and cause it to wear faster than no grease.
Hi bro, we are looking for collaborators for our new taillights. Are you interested in testing them out?
Send me a link
@@hotrodyj How can we reach you and send you the details?
@@hotrodyj How can we send you the details?
@@hotrodyj Could we chat further via email or Instagram?
@@hotrodyj How can we send you more details?
Great video. Thanks for sharing gonna attack this asap 😊
Do yourself a favour and spend the extra money to get all of the parts. I did notice he used an impact on the nut for the axle. You need to torque it to spec to prevent premature bearing wear. That’s the most common cause of bearing failure. Good video tho. 👍
Thx good expliqueted
5th gen Ram?
2014 whatever Gen that happens to be
So what is the sound or the noise you can hear so you know it's bad
Taking this out on an EcoDiesel is s literal bitch. One of the 4 bolts mounting the assembly yo the differential housing is practically inaccessible. 12 mm gear wrench and a prayer to get it out
It was poorly designed for engineers, Chevy, have 6 bolts connected all for life durability,
Sorry, but that seal and bearing should of been changed no matter what you say, just go and get the package and get a refund on your $30 shaft. I just did drivers side and well its open i did whatever was there, ties rods, shaft, sub shaft, wheel bearings.
Don’t change the factory tie rods or wheel bearings or anything if they not worn out. They are the best made and last the longest in my years of experience I’ve seen. I’ve seen factory ball joints go 250,000km. Like on my 2007 Ram. Still zero play.
61909
Opttimo
The shaft is much harder then the cv axle socket and usually only wears the socket
Great video, thanks