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Taking this out on an EcoDiesel is s literal bitch. One of the 4 bolts mounting the assembly yo the differential housing is practically inaccessible. 12 mm gear wrench and a prayer to get it out

Could someone link the product for me? I am unsure which of the bypass sensors is the correct one.

Great job. Appreciate it. Gotta do sll this to my 2011 Ram

What the part on Amazon

Question for you, what is your gear ratio? My truck is a 3.92,looking on rockauto the right side shaft is listed only for 3.55 and the dealer says the right side is apparently not serviceable and there is no part number for the right side intermediate shaft

It was poorly designed for engineers, Chevy, have 6 bolts connected all for life durability,

Anyway you still have the ebay link?

I have a polaris slingshot but wont star

93BB code?

I just saw you looked up a 2008 Pontiac solstice thank you 🙏

Where do I get a starter

As for the problems people are having removing the front axle shafts to the stub shafts and stubs to the diff being stuck you do know at the end of each stub shaft is a c clip that holds the etub shaft to the cv and diff your best bet is to remove the diff cover so you can compress the c clips and the shaft will come out pretty easy when your pounding the crap out of the cv shaft that wont come out your working against the c clips .

i cant believe i had to watch you sweep the floor. gorgeous truck!!!!!

CAN U ADD THE LINK WERW YOU GOT THE PARTS WILL THIS WOEK ON A 2012

Hi, do you have the link to buy the part?

Try the ARB quick recovery twin 5 cfm, pumps to 150 psi when it drops to 100. The recovery rate is 30 seconds. I’m running six bags off it.

At 5:15 and 7:10, you can clamp your ground wire to the vise if you can't find a better location. Once the vise jaws grip through the paint or rust, it is electrically the same connection at that point.

At 17:14, thanks for making this video ... I'm in Atlanta so it is not completely impossible that we won't run into each other sometime. You can delete all of my crap comments if you want!

At 14:20, have you calculated your belt/pulley drive ratio? At 16:45, You are probably spinning the York faster than you think.

at 0:25, if oil is coming out, are you putting more back into your compressor? It will run out of oil as well. If it is coming out into your air, it must be coming from the compressor sump. It will also become contaminated with moisture and dirt from the air it is compressing, and it will also need to be changed as well. Have you considered these eventualities?

At 10:15, that reversed transfer case is something special! I have never seen that before. Maybe I just haven't been around enough?

At 8:45, if you were to cool that hot compressed air, you would cause the moisture to fall out of suspension better/faster/more completely, before it enters your trap, then finally your reservoir tank.

It seems I'm nothing but critical, ... On the other hand, those fluorescent light reflections show the excellent bodywork on those long fender panels ++

At 1:55, Does that 5-cfm rating take into account the elasticity of air, in that at 0psi (0-bar) 100% of the air is pumped out per cycle, where as at 150psi, (10-bar), the piston has to squeeze the air 9 times smaller, 90% before any air 10%, even starts comes out of the compressor, and what ever air that did not come out re-expands to consume space that the new intake charge can not fill because something is already in the way. That is why air compressors say something like 5-cfm at 40-psi and 2.5-cfm at 90-psi. You may not be realizing the promise of 5cfm...Do you know the shape and volume of the cylinder head / "Combustion Chamber" if you will allow an imperfect description, above the piston at top dead center "Compression Ratio calculation", on the York?

I paid 12$ a litre for gear lube,whats it cost in your area? My dodge is an 02,so I dont see any electric actuator shaft shifter on the axle,but I looked under the truck at night on mine from the front! If the 02 does have this,I'd like to know,but I'll have a good look at it later. Good video!

Hello ..please link ?thanks..

Nicely Done!. Looking to get a winch for my Silverado. Was thinking about this HF Badland 12000 but you made such excellent points that I think I'll check out some others as well to see what 100 or so bucks on a competitors model get me. Nicely Done, Very Nicely Don!

Plz HELP. What size is axle nut factory?? 35mm or 1-3/8?? HELP

Glad to see its a true tandem axle and not a useless tag axle

how did you know it was the passenger side vs the driver side seat, does the driver side not have a sensor, are the instructions essentially the same for the driver side, lastly is there a link to the device to order from ebay and is it the same for all mini coopers, I have a 2010 Cooper S, thank you.

Thank you for doing this video! I used your video to replace the starter on my wife's 2017 Polaris Slingshot. I followed every step of your process except for the removal of the bottom bolt on the starter. It was much easier for me to remove the bottom bolt by jacking the bike up and removing it from underneath the bike. Other than that GREAT video!

Looks like the 1962 double axle in the Pardee Shop video....👍🏼

So what is the sound or the noise you can hear so you know it's bad

bout to do my 16 eco diesel. very much appreciate the video.

Could you share the link where you bought the sensor on eBay?

The heat buildup it'll melt the grease in universal joint for one air tanks may not like it as well but it looks good (HEINKEL 177 effect)

Thx good expliqueted

Which seller did you buy it off eBay from. I’ve found 2: 1)SRSDrive - UK Store 2) SRSDRIVE - IE Store I’m trying to figure out which one you bought, so I know it works like yours did. Thanks for the help :)

Nice execution of your plan on this project. Regardless of the fan noise, a cordless clip on microphone would be quite helpful in this situation.

Thanks for the video I went on ebay and found the bypass emlulator it looked like the right tool but the only app listed was a BMW 5ser will this work my in2007 mini s

How did you get the CV axle back onto the stub shaft past the snap ring after you bent it back into shape? I'm replacing the CV axle on mine, but for the life of me can't get it back on past the snap ring.

Seems like alot of heat right by your air tanks maybe a heat shield

Great vid, thx for sharing. Do you have model of the bypass from EBay?

Might be an idea to scale each wheel for weights... I know the front is heavy but I think the tandem axles cancel that out. beautiful truck

my brake rotor was rusted on and I had to heat it and beat it with a hammer to get it off. was the hardest part of the job hahaha

thank you for a great video.

It didn’t work for me. I just contacted the supplier on eBay. I have a 2012 mini JCW non turbo. No luck 😢

Hi dose bad intermediate shaft make vibration in the tyer

It might be difficult to get this part. I think that the DoT might have something to say about tampering with the system. Having said that always do you.

I unloaded mine just like yours but took me an hour or so you made it look too easy 🤣