How To Restore a Beam Drill
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- A beam Drill used in Timber framing. today we will be restoring this 100-year-old beam drill to use in the shop.
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I have one similar to your first one. I took the chuck off of a non ratcheting bit brace and attached it to the boaring machine. Now I can use any bits.
Thank you for sharing
Hi James, I might be bidding on the other one for sale as the school/group on at would like to have several operational for a class in the spring...
The "tool geek" in me loved watching you "destroy"...er hum..."restore" this tool...LOL!!!
I know all my historical restoration friends will wince when they see this video because it breaks most (if not all...LMAO) rules (actually called "restoration ethics" from the formal side of it in the museum sciences) for proper historic restoration of vintage historic fabrics. "Fabrics" in this case can me anything.
Its done now and the tool will at least get another lifetime of good use and love out of it...Look forward to seeing what you build. Give a shout out if you need help or have questions. I'm in Southern Iowa now on another timber frame project down here to be finished in the late summer of 2021...so closer than I was before in New York when we last corresponded...Look forward to your next timber framing video...
Thanks man. Yeah I love driving the historical restoration people nuts. I've done quite a few historical restorations but when I restore them for myself I make it something that makes me happy. I will be using this for many decades to come and when I'm done I'll pass it down to my kids and at that point it'll probably time for another restoration. And they can choose something that makes them happy or historical change. I am keeping the original beams so if someone wants to salvage them they can.
I have an old beam drill. Looks like I need to restore it. The only real issue I can see without tearing it apart is the top keeper. It must have broken off but an ingenious user put a piece of wire that goes up and over the header or top horizontal piece. Thanks for this!
I just restored one I got for 40$, a double eagle boss. I hate to Get rid of it but can't find any augers for it, what you think it's worth if I can't find any??
Most of them sell around $100. You can actually use the wood owl logger bits in it. They have a 1/2-in shank.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks brother
Ok, shout out to European crowd: Can we get such it similar design beauties, in the Old Continent?
Ya there not many of those in Europe and those that were there were scraped in the war.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo That's what I was afraid of ☹️. I never saw them on this side of the pond. Only chainsaw or square morticing drill bits.
Well, one can experiment or go Frankenstein on diy drill stand & hand drill 😉.
what is japanning??
Japanning is the original black "paint" on most old tools. It's actually a lacquer and not a paint. It is incredibly durable.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks for the quick replies 👍
Is that the sorta waxy but not waxy (that makes total sense) semi gloss finish on old tools? I've been wondering what that finish is because it seems particularly good for preserving old planes.
I mean wooden tools that is, if we're talking about the same finish
@@garryjohnson3107 No, it's not the waxy finish on wooden tools. It's the black finish on the metal surface of tools. The best a example is on any hand plane body, the black finish is japanning.
@@ricos1497 I have since looked into japanning through and old video by James actually. I do appreciate the reply, Rico. Always very helpful people in comments in this channel.
22nd.
Great Job on the project, I was just wondering, when you were about to spray the primer on you said the parts just came put of the bath, how did you keep them from flash rusting? when I use evaporated-o-Rust and wash my parts off with water the flash rust hits mo parts as soon as they start to dry.
I don't wash them off with water. Just wipe them down and let it dry. I know some people who will use window cleaner to wash it off as the window cleaner evaporates very quickly
I have a strickler co columbiana ohio beam drill, would any auger bit work f9r it and it seems to run counterclock wise,( as it goes up it rotates clock wise and down it rotates counter should i use reverse auger bits or could it be assembled wrong? I want to use it but cant find much information online
They should be the same rotation and direction is any other auger. Can you just rotate the handle the other direction?
Timber frames, smaller ones anyway, tend to have 1.5" wide tenons/mortises so this would work just fine (and a 1.5" slick to match/cleanup the mortise holes). The best beginner timber framing book, I'd argue, is Learn to Timber Frame by Will Beemer (gorgeous pictures, really carefully thought out text which is packed with detailed info - though easily readable). Planning to build a timber framed shed this fall. A beam drill would be handy! Cheers James
Beautiful restoration. I never would have thought of the blue but it looks very smart. Thanks for sharing as I plan to restore mine having made 2 frames with it. Any tips on the handles. I see you didn't appear to remove the wooden handles from the arms. One of my wooden handles fell off and i can't quite work out how it attaches securely. Any ideas?
originally, they are made from one piece and the rod was riveted in place. most people make the replacements from two pieces and glued back together. or make it one and split it apart and then glue it back together.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo that's really helpful, thank you
at ~11:08 you mentioned you made a video about sharping auger bits and it was really dull. Were you referring to your auger bit or the video?
Lol yes.
Trabajo muy limpio y con buena estetica, gracias por compartir, saludos desde Venezuela
¡Gracias! ¡Eso significa mucho para mí!
Do you know how the handles are attached? I'm in the process of restoring one, and just cant seam to figure it out.
They are riveted on. If you want to take them off you have to drill them out or cut them off.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thanks! Do yours spin as you turn the drill or are they fixed?
I want one but the cheapest one I could find was $75
that is a fairly good price.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo yeah it is fair most I have seen where around $200 but it was in dire need of restoration and was a hour and a half away and I am 15 so I can’t drive there myself.
Fantastic work, James! 😃
That's a really interesting tool!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome I James! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Beautiful restoration James...I've been looking for a beam drill but haven't found one yet that's affordable...just a quick tip to pass along: when I'm masking off an intricate section to be painted I've found that after applying the masking tape, I tap the tape gently around the shape with a small pall peen hammer and it "cuts" the tape to the shape, allowing the excess tape to freely peel away...
Nice video. A tip my dad taught me was that if you are pouring from a can like the WD40 rust cleaner in the video then to stop the slosh, slosh, sloshing you can pour it out backwards. Turn the tub round as far as is practical and pour almost over the handle. Don't know why it works but it does.
What are some of the features that the old one was lacking?
The big thing was the top latch but the original one was just designed kind of odd and how it got to the top. That one was an earlier version of the one I now have.
It's a beautiful thing. I wish they did them in the UK, they look perfect for folks like me that can't drill straight! Great for clearing out mortices and so on. It's one of those tools that I'm surprised haven't been given a modern re-make. Either with the ability to house a power drill, or just a manual drill with updated metal parts, like aluminium extrusion, clamping slots and fancy mitre guage type deal. Such a useful portable drill press. I'd love one.
The problem is that these do not work on smaller pieces of wood very easily. and they are a bit of pain to set up and get going so usually they're not as useful for general woodworking. They really only shine in timber framing and larger diameter holes.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Oh well! I was thinking for things like drilling dog holes and such like, but perhaps another design would be better. I'm guessing some of the more expensive drill guides are where it's at for those types of drilling exercise. Or just the ring trick!
Hope I can find one of those one day. I’ve been using a primer I found that converts rust to a paintable surface. I use after I use evaporust and manual rust removal... just hoping it eliminates any problems later. You should check it out
ya I have used a conversion primer a ew times. it works well as long as rust is the only contaminate.
beautiful restoration
What audio files?? Lol
Nice beam dirll. Well done!
I love the ray flex!!!
You and me both.
What’s the tooth set on your rip saw?
About "that" much! It is fairly heavy. as the numbers on the setting tool do not many anything when compared to another it is hard to translate to a given number. as to how much they stick out from the plate I have not measured as it changes from time to time, but it is heaver then any other saw in the shop.
Is that a Hand Tool Rescue adjustable wrench I see?
Yes it is. I have one of his and one of the originals they were made after.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Sweet. I know you have collaborated with him before. It's cool seeing the collaborations done by different youtubers that I watch.
Lemme ask ya what ya want in it like ya said?
Good work - music very distracting - sounds like a Massengill commercial.
You will be happy to know I no longer put music on my videos.