Once the aussies tune in to the episode, they gonna tell you everything you need to do to that engine. The no start issue is most probably a poor earth to the spill control valve, very common.
@@surewhynot6259he thought it was a fuel shutoff valve but it's actually not. He applied power to one side where he should already have +12 to one side (via the spill relay and fuse) and the ecu applies a quickly switching earth to the other side
Yep Aussie here, first thing you do is sell it and buy one with the 1VD-FTV (32v 4.5 V8) 200bhp and 317 lb⋅ft or if you find the twin turbo version 360bhp and 450 lb - ft STANDARD. Then you start modifying 😂 bigger turbo, clutch and you’ll be good for +125 bhp and +230 lb - ft.
1HD-FTE owner here - love these motors - always makes me smile driving my 70 series with one. The injection pumps on these are very reliable typically. Unless it has over 600,000kms on it, it should only really get a bit of rev hang. I could not hear the spill valve clicking in the video (which is loud) so that means likely there is some signal loss etc in the electronics. Very common that the spill controller gets a bad earth - that being a conversion it could have been anything. Other common (but not so common) failures are 1. The rev hang due to injector pump wear. this can range from a simple recalibration or injector pump replacement. Still driveable, but annoying. could last another 200,000+kms when it develops this. Seems to be more of an ECU programming problem rather than the pump itself. 2. the idler bolt on the timing belt will break if not looked after when replacing the timing belt properly. Some people either forget the small washer that goes behind the bolt or forget to replace it when worn. People have had good luck just replacing the alloy bridges to get the engine running again. also - i'm not sure where you are getting your pricing from but you guys are getting ripped off!! genuine parts for these motors are cheaper in my experience compared to non-genuine. Keep in mind that following the service manual you are not supposed to replace entire assemblies but rather rebuild them. I rebuilt all 6 injectors with genuine parts with a diesel shop and it cost me less than $1200 AUD, fitted myself. and i'm no mechanic!
@@Beng177 imo it's the last of the true landcruiser motors. I have a 3F fj62 and it's the same story, replace the broken item or rebuild it if possible and they just keep going.
Greetings from down under Rich. On the 1HD-Ts, the pistons are actually quite good and aren't usually the point of failure in those engines. There's lots of folks here in Australia playing around with 80 Series Cruisers (which had the HD-T as an option) and the most common problems are lifting the head, cracking the head, or more often cracking the block between cylinders 5 and 6. Frequently the crack in the block occurs below the piston crown and above the rings at bottom dead centre, where you'll never see the crack unless you pull the pistons out altogether. The 1HD-T was problematic from the start, with Toyota issuing a recall for the big end bearings, which were failing with low kilometers, and the bearings Toyota fitted under the recall weren't great either. On the FTE, they're pretty well understood over here, and there's not all that much that goes wrong with them. The 100 series (full size wagon) and the 70 series (utes and troop carriers) had different variations of the FTE, with the 100 series version being fitted with the intercooler and an immobiliser. They both had different throttle pedals and different Engine Control Units, but I'm fairly sure the Engine Drive Unit (often called the spill driver or spill control driver) are the same. The biggest problems FTEs have over here are caused by the EDU/spill driver playing up, which results in the exact problems you were having, cranking but absolutely no fuel. It can be anything from a bad earth, corroded plug to the circuit board in the EDU being fried. I've had hells own trouble with an EDU that didn't have a good enough ground connection from the aluminium backing plate of the EDU. The other major problem FTEs have is they bend rods at 1000 newton meters of torque. The rest of the motor and injector pump are capable of far more, but the rods aren't good enough. Lastly, on the subject of their "woeful" power and torque figures, that was entirely intentional on Toyota's end. Even the 1VD-FTV, the 4.5 litre V8 that Toyota brought to the Australian market in 07 to replace the FTE makes a similar level of power stock. Toyota did this so they wouldn't have to put in major work upgrading the clutch, gearbox, transfer case and diffs of the 70 series. A handful of folks over here chasing big torque from an FTE usually end up putting slightly modified rods from a Nissan ZD30CRD (used in the Patrol, Navara and some light trucks and busses) as well as oversized injectors. That's it, that's all they need. They're a fantastic engine, and considering we didn't get the Cummins 6BT family of engines over here in huge numbers of road going vehicles, they're among the best diesel engines we have over here. And that's coming from a Nissan guy.
Hey mate, just on the stuff you were saying about the 1HD-T Everything you mentioned about the piston crowns cracking once turbod is all related to the early model 1HZ, being they didn't have oil squirters and were indirect injection. The 1HD-T is the direct injection factory turbo engine which has piston oil squirters to keep them cooled, haven't seen many 1HD-Ts with cracked pistons. The engine block is the same between all 4 of the engines compared, slightly upgraded on the late 1HZ apparently, keeping Inline with the FT and Fte. The 1HZ ran from the beginning in Australia , 1990 all the way to the last FTE in 2007 Although there is no comparison to the 1HD-FTE or the 1HD-FT, the 1HD-T is able to hold it's own The main downside of the 1HZ and 1HD-T reliability is the position of the fuel bowl on the top of the piston, in a 1HZ and 1HD-T the fuel is injected offset to the side of the piston, which is fine, but commonly causes increased wear in the rod bearings (you'll commonly see people replacing the rod bearings on a 1HD-T every 150-200000kms) The biggest improvement to the 1HD-FT and FTE was the injection of fuel was in the middle of the piston crown, and the fuel bowl being in the middle, meaning the motor is getting combustion on top the piston dead center. The motor runs perfectly smooth, no kicking or messing around, you'll see people putting a 50cent Australian coin on its side and showing it doesn't move while running. As for the 1HD-FT to FTE improvement, unfortunately you lose the reliable mechanical injection, replaced with electronic injection, although still a mechanical fuel pump, not a sucky common rail. The biggest upgrade though on the FTE is the rounded shape at the bottom of the fuel bowl in the piston crown, this greatly improved the dispersion of the fuel in the bowl, meaning less centred heat on the piston. If you ever need any help with these cruiser motors, I've owned over 40 of these, worked and lived in one for years travelling and have many contacts in the industry here in Australia so feel free to hit me up :)
The 1hd fte is gods motor. They are simply the best cross of reliable and power Toyota have ever built in a diesel. I have done around 500,000km in my 1hdftes. The only real problem I’ve had is a poor earth. They are known for holding a little bit rpm at gear changes (in manuals)but is fixed by recalibrating the spill control valve on the injector pump. This will often return but is more of an engine trait than a concern.
Aussie here, I have a 96 troopy with the 1HZ , greatest Toyota motor ever, slow as hell ,but they are deadset reliable. It’s why they’re still being made. Great show.
I am another Long time Land Cruiser enthusiast... To be pedantic.... you missed the predecessor engines in the 'H' series... the 2H and 12H-T. Both from the 80's. Gear driven pushrods, so no OHC. All mechanical injection, 12V. the 2H is NA and ID, the 12H-T is DI and Turbo'd. I got a 12H-T in an HJ61 wagon imported form Japan. THIS engine is the true analog to the 12V Cummins. It sounds exactly like a little baby cummins. Just did a 8,000km road trip from Calgary to Texas this year. So satisfying to drive. Excellent video, thanks!
@@peterstraub7175dont get me wrong, the 12H-T is probably the best diesel that toyota has made, but in saying that, I've had my VJD79 with the 1VD for about 8 years and done roughly 400,000km and never had an issue. It was tuned about 300,000km ago and it is starting to get tired now, but thats expected when its pushing 100hp more than factory settings. I've seen the 1VD's do close to a million km in Western Australia with regular maintenance completed.
your dreaming.. theres no comparison.. toyotas are stuk in 1940.. ausie. u.s. 4x4 driver. never touch a toyota, they have inherant problems.like. DONT TOUCH THEM LEAVE IT STD.only good thing about the 80. is the coil susp.. toyota lost the plot after that..
Being a middle east truck, the 79 you got a hold of probably came with a 1GR-FE V6 gas engine. None of the 4-door 79's ever came factory with an 1HD-FTE (though a lot of Africa spec units would have had the 1HZ). Someone must have converted it. You won't have any difficulty selling the 1HD-FTE. So long as it's in decent condition, there'll be a line-up of Land Cruiser nerds interested.
I prefer the 1hdt as it has no electric components. Thats why i swapped out the 1hz in my 75 series ute with a 1hdt with a tdo6 sl2 18g and intercooler running around 300hp. No issues for 300,000kms so far 🍻
Just one note about the egr valve. Exhaust gases are not re-burned, they function as inert gases to reduce ratio of oxygen in intake air. Lower oxygen ratio means lower peak combustion temperatures which results in lower NOx gases production during combustion phase (when peak power is not required).
Is it my imagination or do you think there is some truth in this, but I blanked of my egr valve in my 1HZ and I thought I felt a slight drop in power. Is this possible?
The injection timing is very retarded anyway as high peak pressure (ie decent injection timing) causes nox emissions. If it's a true mechanical setup (without ecu) then you can adjust the injection timing by clocking the pump
Mate of mine has a FTE in a 100 series cruiser. With a "uni chip" and tune through a auto make around 300hp on 35's. Anyway his timing belt broke and it broke every single rocker arm and bent the main rocker shaft. We replaced the broken bits, lashed the valves and it started with no sign of a dead hole. He went on to finish his holiday and 10,000km later it's still going! kissed on the waahoo is a understatement. I was 100% convinced it would have needed a rebuild
Had that problem with one of them. Turned out to be the spill valve driver. (Little black box). Changed that and now I’m at about 500,000klms and still running like a new one.
Over here in Australia, the FTE is every Landcruiser owner’s wet dream, personally I have a 1HZ. The bottom end if the same as the FTE with the same forged crank and strong single bottom girdle main cap rather the individual caps. The 1HZs are slow as anything from factory but take turbos very well, especially due to the insanely strong bottom end. I turboed mine asoon as I bought it at 400,000kms since it was unbearable to drive but now it actually goes very well.
There's a difference between the early and late 1HZs The crank in the late 1HZs is the upgraded stronger crank you find in the FT and FTE As well as block improvements and the main improvement, piston oil squirters The discrepancies you see with people talking about the 1HZ blowing up once you add a turbo usually comes from people with late Hzj78/9+HZJ105s having no issues, and the early HZJ80 and Hzj75 engines getting too hot pistons and egts and cracking
Aussie here, this is one of the best engines ever made. Read up on the build process at Toyota, it makes sense why these last. Huge power gains to be made with minor mods.
Someone has probably mentioned this, but I'd guess the reason the bonnet scoop has a 6 on it (missing a V) is because it's a bonnet from a V8 diesel 70.
I’m just a shade tree mechanic i got nothing to offer but i love watching the videos so i can try and learn something new!! Looking forward to this build !!
As an underground mechanic, you are correct by saying they are abused. I never seen anything like it. Locked in second gear and to the floor all the time. Just screaming
I might be biased as I own an 80 Series with one but the 1HD-FT was the king of these engines; all the updated internals of the FTE without the E pump of the FTE. Nice little fact also is that the later FTE turbos as found in the 2003-onwards 100 series were VNT and are quite capable little units once upgraded.
FTE has a harder block and crank different pistons, slightly higher compression ratio, different camshaft profile lot more differences than just the pump.
UPGRADED.. there sht std. all of them..only good thing about an 80, is the coil susp.. other than that, THERE GARBAGE..i have a 4.2 mwm. no computer no glow plugs, 700nm.. 240 hp.. tows 4.5t. & i use 5th. towing, up hill.. toyota suk. 1940 bs..
Something to note is about the hollow cast cranks. They are known to flex and will wear out the crank bearings between cyl 3 and 4. Some guys do a bearing roll when the cam belt is due especially if you have it making a bit more power. My 1hd did me 460 000 km and i live in little nz
@@DEBOSSGARAGE everythingwrong.. it doesnt have gas struts or hinge springs.. 1940.. the gearbox is weak as piss. 1940.. the engine is gutless. 1940.. there cramped pogo stix. 1940..there noisy. 1940.. the front diff is weak. 1940. it has cv joints. 1940..THERE ALL GARBAGE..
We have a 92 1hz 75 series, absolute bullet proof, and just 2 years ago we brought a new 79 with the v8 motor before they stopped making them and it came with the dpf emissions and crap and got it taken out instantly. Not legal at all but much safer for farm use like the mining industry. Not good to do a burn which defeats the purpose of a dpf anyway… in a stubble paddock during harvest at average 40 degree Celsius weather and then paddock catch on fire…
I have a 1992 80 series Landcruiser GXL with a factory 1HDT engine in it, with about 485,000 km's. I previously had a 1997 80 series Landcruiser DX with a 1HZ engine in it. They both had twin tanks - 95 litres and 50 litres. The 1HZ had better mileage, but was gutless on hills. On extremely steep hills it was reduced to 1st or 2nd gear at about 10-20 km/h. On the 6 km long hill climbing out of Adelaide towards Melbourne, I could only go a max of 80 km/h. The 1HDT, with a factory turbo, is more powerful, and flies up all hills. I get about 1,050 km's from 130 litres of diesel, just driving to and from work in the suburbs. The 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE engines are recognised in Australia as the ducks guts of Landcruiser engines. Serious 4wders, and farmers and miners in Australia buy Toyota Landcruisers. The Nissan Patrol GX and GU from the 90's and 2000's, with the well respected TD42 engine, were great, and their drivelines are unkillable - stronger than Landcruiser's. Landrovers and Jeeps are used as mall crawlers. 'If you want to go out 4wding, use a Landrover. If you want to get back home, use a Landcruiser.'
whats a 1vd. sex germ??. why do toyota have alphabet noodles names, instead of what it is..the 79 series 4.5tdi are crap. my 4.2 tdi with no computer, no glow plugs, has more nm..700nm.. single turbo.. 3 valve . ohc. 3'' system std..
We own a small hybrid vehicle repair shop in scarborough and two of my guys have worked over a decade on 1HZ and 1HD. All version of it. We are happy to help.
your knowledge and expertise never ceases to astound me. i truly belive that you deserve to have your own manufactoring company for main stream daily drivers. the engine reviews are some of my favorite videos that you do even though half of what you say is way over my head lol.
Unless the bonnet has been changed probably find thats a vdj model that came with the 1vdftv 4.5L v8 diesel that has a large top mount intercooler to suit that bonnet. 1hdfte is common swap in patrols and that one didnt sound like td or the like so most likely why its featured at the beginning for those wondering. Being a mechanical DI injector your everyday injection shop would be able to rebuild the injectors resonable price, here in oz last time i got some was in the region of $100ea. Gen toyota prices for stuff like that are crazy anywere. Regular and preventative maintatance and servicing like anything. We have one we service original long block / turbo / fuel pump well over 750,000km . Love to see what you do with it. You'll fond they have a plastic water pump impeller but have never seen a genuine one fail. Awesome engine.
As others have stated, that solenoid is not the standard shutoff solenoid you normally see. This solenoid is commanded for every injection event. It would be similar to a 6.5L DS pump or a VP44 in this way.
Some of those timing belts are stupid easy to replace, I did the timing belt on my 1KZ in 45 minutes in my sister-in-law's driveway immediately after buying it. 25 of those minutes were from dropping a socket and having to pull the belly pan to find it. Also keep in mind that timing belts have to be replaced on a schedule too no matter how many miles they've done because rubber parts age even when sitting there unused. If your timing belt is old, replace it, even if the miles aren't there yet. Too much at risk.
The Landcruisers we used underground here in 🇨🇦were the N/A variant, and honestly they were VERY RELIABLE. So per regulations these trucks were locked to 1st and 2nd only (5 speed) and 4 Low. So naturally these would be on red line ALL day every day, 24/7, 365. They used to get so wore out that once you shut them off, boiling hot or ice cold it would never start, the only thing that would get them going again would be Rust Check “Red” spray lube, anything else they’d knock and not start. Being one of a dozen mechanics there I’ve only had to change 2 engines due to other unrelated issues like the harmonic balancer sheering off. The front ends are like glass, from differentials, cv axles, wheel bearings, the list goes on. Good times.
we have many 1hd-t , FT & FTEs in stock & a yanmar 6lp high power mechanical pump if you want to convert it to mechanical 1hd-t from 1993 had revised pistons, injectors, pump, etc - very reliable still worth upgrading big end bearings on all variants if going for power
You should travel to Thailand. Get your hands on the Isuzu 4J engine series. Thais are extracting amazing power levels both from the mechanical and electronic versions of these engines.
19:12 This will be the world's first 70 series hybrid electric toyota land cruiser "HD". I believe the 2024 toyota land cruiser "prado"/(250 series) Is a hybrid. I daily drive A 1HD-T powered 80 series in the U.S and it is underpowered. Fun but underpowered. Also I think your friends from the skid factory, Know all about these land cruisers.
Oh yes! I own a one of these with the 1VD ,TD V8. My previous 79 series had the 1hdfte. Single cab. By far the best motor made was the fte. The HDJ79 & HDJ78 (1HDFTE) was only sold in Australia. If you need tech tips let me know. The 100 series fte has a more powerful output than the fte in the 78, 79 series You will pull a reliable 800nm from these all day long. That gearbox, if you put a post 2016 with the longer 2nd and 5th gear much nicer driving manners. H150 h151 are the early box the gearbox you want is the H152. Same strength,better gearing
Yep the black box spill valve controller is what I’m thinking. It has to be grounded the black box does. I had on that was loose on a battery box so tightened it and added a ground to the battery. Fixed the no start issue.
Hi Matthew, I have similar problem with my 100 series - crank but no start. Can you confirm where you ran the additional ground wires? I have already replaced the black box (EDU) which made no difference so then I added ground wires from the EDU heat sink back to the battery negative and this still did not sort the issue.
Hi mate, you have done it right. The other part I had play up latter was one of the plugs on the fuel pump was not connecting properly. It was the speed sensor in the fuel pump not getting signal. I just tweaked the connectors and that fixed it. Is yours a factory 100? Or have you converted it into another car? Because the 100’s have the immobilizer that can be an issue with swaps.
@@matthewclements4932 Yes it is the standard factory setup - the small key icon on the dash goes out as soon as I insert the key so think the immobilizer is ok. I have checked the resistances for all sensors/actuators and they check out ok with specs in the workshop manual. This made me think that the pump itself was stuffed, however everyone I speak to says the pumps do not fail in this way ie one day running spot on, next no start. I did try dabbing 12v on the spool valve while cranking the engine and managed to get a random firing and lots of black smoke so would suggest that the EDU is not firing. Strange one really - I will be having another go at it when I get chance. I need to see what is happening at the EDU - is it being told to fire and is it producing the correct signal to the spill valve. Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
Well, I never thought I would see a video about this engine on deboss. It would be cool to see a video on a mitsubishi 4M41 (the Common rail one specifically) or the 4D56 also common rail. That land cruiser confused me because it's Middle East spec, but has a diesel.... that just doesn't happen. Also that shape never came with the fte, only earlier narrow nose models.
We have a 1hd-t in our coaster bus, total weight about 6300kg and the 1hd just works. Will siton the open road speed limit all-day, altnough fuel consumption is much better around 90.
Also a fuel knocking issue on the earlier hdj79s. Fixed by fitting an inline filter to the return from the injection pump. Otherwise great motors we have 2 with over 450k kms.
Got a 92' 80 with a 1HDT and over 620xxxkms. Glad i did the timing belt when i did, had a crack on the cam gear going from the bolt almost all the way out to the teeth! Still pulls like a train and never misses a beat Eats the modern v8 models any day..
Love the knowledgeable comments and perspectives. I enjoy all Deboss content but I super enjoy any progress on the Edison project, so this video is a pleasant unexpected surprise. :)
i have one in my boat .. yanmar 6LP fantastic engine. 350 hp i have heard the on the road ones had head cracking issues between the valves the video of the yamaha engine in your video is literally the one in my maxum boat now !
Define perfect, if perfection is pure reliability over performance and efficiency, you can’t beat the Toyota 2H, everything after that is a compromise.
I own a Landcruiser 100 series with a 1HD-FTE in South Africa with over 500 000 km without any problems. I’m planning to import it to Alberta Canada in January 2025 So I’m loving all your video’s form the African series and nou this one with the 1HD-FTE
Pretty sure the the 79 dual cab never came out with a 1hdt fte. Happy to be proven wrong. 79’s have a bonnet scoop for the 1VD engine with top mount intercooler You might have got a dud.
Hey Boss…. Access mining (whom I used to work for) sells and leases these Toyotas for underground mining. They can get anything you may need. Miller in Sudbury does the same thing.
Looks like you're trying to just power the spill valve with 12V directly. These pumps don't utilise a simple 12V fuel cut solenoid, they are operate at over 100V with a PWM signal from the EDU on the inner guard.
We run those trucks with 1HZ in underground mining they are incredibly tough units. I’ve driven thousands of kms in those trucks in 4 low with my foot in the throttle body all day long they are caked in mud and run forever.
You should look at 12hts they are very reliable my one had 480xxx kms and ran pretty good had a bad injector but now the motors getting rebuilt cause I’m putting in my fj45
Worth mentioning its not all bad with the electronic pump, they are certainly a big step up over the mechanical pump for refined driving and slightly better economy. As much as these where a rugged diesel they where also refined enough to go into Toyota's LC100 'kind of luxury' wagon. A lot of tuners here in Australia like the electronic pump also as it gives absolute control over timing and fuel delivery for having the nicest possible driving car even at 300+ HP builds. Also really cool to see this is a Variable Geometry turbo on this one, I believe we only ever got wastegated turbos in Australia with our slightly less difficult emissions. The gt2359V seems a good OEM size for the 1hd, but is defiantly too small on the later 4.5 v8 engines.
This would be a good one for the Cummins propane, I believe running propane in confined spaces isn’t as bad as the diesel would be. I know lots of warehouses and shops that run propane forklifts. That way if you do have to run the generator to power up, you’re still good for underground 😉👍
Can we get an update on the milwaukee tool box that you bought some years ago, just to hear if it is holding up to your expectations or would you recommend something else. Thanks, Really enjoy the videos, is missing videos with farm equipment repairs with Kevin, but I know that you are a busy guy, do love these engine videos, keep up the good work.
Its not made by Milwaukee. I'm sure the same box is out there with a different color cheaper. Its holding up fine, but I don't like the layout much, but that is just personal preference
Aussie here, absolutely love this as I’ve got a 2012 VDJ 79 Series with the 4.5 1VD but it’s funny yous are putting the 2.8 in it because that’s the same engine the new 79 series in Australia have from factory
My Canadian BJ60 came with a 3.4 l Hino all mechanical diesel. Indirect injection, gear-driven camshaft and some analog gizmo that was repairable and didn't make a no-start. It had the same power as my MGB. Power, comfort and emissions would make me move ahead twenty years, but the size of the wagon was perfect.
I own a 1hz daily driver, bought third hand 20 years ago. Is it a race car up a hill ? No, 1hdT will run away from me on a hill. No sensors, no ECU. Change oil, filter, timing belt and tensioner at specified intervals, and good to go. I also own a Nissan TD 27, which is even better - no timing belt, all gears. I love tham both.
The V8 was absolutely not 'nearly as reliable'. Yes they are not a bad engine for a modern emissions compliant diesel, but there was way too many inherent issues and design stupidity for them to be comparable. Not to mention much worse fuel economy and absolute nigh mare of working on the 1VD.
The 1HZ is the one you want if you´re going on a safari in Africa. It might not be the most powerful engine but it always get you were you´re going :) I had a Landcruiser HJ60 with the 2H engine which is the predecessot to the 1HZ. 4 liter diesel with 100hp and 5000km oil change intervals. It runs forever if you maintain it properly but not very fast...
It’s a shame to see Toyota make mistakes but they’ve never been perfect. I’m an Australian and I’ll never drive anything but a Toyota ESPECIALLY when my life depends on it but I’ve always driven second hand Toyotas and my favourite ones are are all 30 years old and all FAR stronger than any Euro or British trash. I would drive American or Australian (and have) long before I’d own anything British or Euro.
If you remove the heater grid and the butterfly plate air flow improves. Oil change intervals critical for these engines otherwise the valvetrain will wear out prematurely, needle rollers in the roller rockers $$$, and the oil pumps need replacing approximately 300k, or they are know for big end bearing delamination. Here in Australia it is a very popular engine to modify, but if you don't check oil pressure and big end bearings before dialing the boost up on a aftermarket turbo your asking for big trouble.. Toyota cultists will Denie any issues with this engine but if you want high performance from it you must do high maintenance and preventative modifications. Head studs, ACL race bearings, premium oil, FASS fuel system, large intercooler, valve clearances every major service, high performance balancer and keyway, etc etc.
Aussie HDJ80 series /1hdt owner here. Strongly recommended to replace the con rod bearings. I've had one let go at 416,000km and a rod out the side with no warning signs on a religiously serviced engine. Off topic, I also have a FJ80 with a dead 3fe and was contemplating using the R2.8 and ZF8HP but have now decided to run BMW M57 ZF6. If 1hdfte wasn't so expensive I'd just stick with Toyota motors but the M57 is gaining popularity in Straya.
The R2.8 is a pile of crap, I did dozens of swaps when it was first released years ago and had numerous catastrophic engine failures, so I haven't done one since. It's made in China Cummins. The Isuzu 4JJ1 is a much better choice for a diesel swap.
@DarrelJones-fh2wx yep came to the same conclusions. Also looked at the Isuzu but I think the BMW X5 donor is a better total package in terms of being a 6 cylinder and already having a great gearbox attached. Fitting to an 80 series is relatively straightforward, or so it seems.
I have 2003 Landcruiser Ute with the 1HD-FTE and I love it, done 330,000 km with blocked EGR and 3 inch straight exhaust, it will see me out! Very capable and ultra reliable, only issue I've had is the plastic tanks on the radiator cracked, replaced with ally Terrain Tamer unit.
there still gutless noisy, cramped expensive non fuel efficient crap.. my 2002 4.2tdi. has 700nm. 240 hp. no computer, no polution bs. ohc. 3 valve, 3'' system std.. tows 4t up hill in 5th, yes, i use 5th.gets 14 lt 100. weighs 4t empty... its not cramped. or NOISY, did i say that. 330,000 is nothing.. a 7.3 s/duty will do 1 million miles, at least..
One HD FTE great engine have a look at D4D engines on RUclips to me It looks like the cars either had an engine conversion or a bonnet conversion because there’s a scoop in the bonnet that should be blowing through an intercooler and it’s incredibly untidy under the Bonnet, so I wouldn’t be picking too hard on the engine, it’s probably the Muppets that installed it and having worked on Toyotas for most of my life. The electronics in the car won’t be suited to that engine if it’s been converted from something else. Have fun.
Ever try a CO2 extinguisher for a runaway diesel?better than plugging air intake. If she’s old and leaky it can pull air in from another source. CO2 is like an off switch!
And what a cluster…. that is. You see new ones on the lot, never saw that with the 1HDTFEs and V8s. The only test drive I was able to get with the new 1HDFTE was with one that hadn’t had a tray fitted yet. They were all sold off the truck.
Wrong At 5:15 . According to official Toyota Diesel engine nomenclature IF an engine is DIRECT INJECTION it will receive the number "1" assigned to its name 12HT, 14B, 15B , 1KZ, 1HZ...etc. So this must be an DIRECT INJECTION ENGINE. Toyota also offers INDIRECT INJECTION ENGINES from DIRECT INJECTION models. Examples are the 11B and 4B.
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Once the aussies tune in to the episode, they gonna tell you everything you need to do to that engine. The no start issue is most probably a poor earth to the spill control valve, very common.
Although I'm Australian and your comment is spot on, I know nothing about Toyota engines 🤣
Isn't bypassing the spill valve one of the first things he tried?
@@surewhynot6259he thought it was a fuel shutoff valve but it's actually not.
He applied power to one side where he should already have +12 to one side (via the spill relay and fuse) and the ecu applies a quickly switching earth to the other side
And looking at it seemed to be chopped already.
Yep Aussie here, first thing you do is sell it and buy one with the 1VD-FTV (32v 4.5 V8) 200bhp and 317 lb⋅ft or if you find the twin turbo version 360bhp and 450 lb - ft STANDARD.
Then you start modifying 😂 bigger turbo, clutch and you’ll be good for +125 bhp and +230 lb - ft.
1HD-FTE owner here - love these motors - always makes me smile driving my 70 series with one.
The injection pumps on these are very reliable typically. Unless it has over 600,000kms on it, it should only really get a bit of rev hang. I could not hear the spill valve clicking in the video (which is loud) so that means likely there is some signal loss etc in the electronics. Very common that the spill controller gets a bad earth - that being a conversion it could have been anything.
Other common (but not so common) failures are 1. The rev hang due to injector pump wear. this can range from a simple recalibration or injector pump replacement. Still driveable, but annoying. could last another 200,000+kms when it develops this. Seems to be more of an ECU programming problem rather than the pump itself.
2. the idler bolt on the timing belt will break if not looked after when replacing the timing belt properly. Some people either forget the small washer that goes behind the bolt or forget to replace it when worn. People have had good luck just replacing the alloy bridges to get the engine running again.
also - i'm not sure where you are getting your pricing from but you guys are getting ripped off!! genuine parts for these motors are cheaper in my experience compared to non-genuine. Keep in mind that following the service manual you are not supposed to replace entire assemblies but rather rebuild them. I rebuilt all 6 injectors with genuine parts with a diesel shop and it cost me less than $1200 AUD, fitted myself. and i'm no mechanic!
Yep, just need to replace the worn item and put it back together, when going bush keep a few space rings and such for that issue.
@@Beng177 imo it's the last of the true landcruiser motors. I have a 3F fj62 and it's the same story, replace the broken item or rebuild it if possible and they just keep going.
He most likely can only import parts. Thats why we cummins swap foreign diesel vehicles. It's got parts in north American warehouses all over.
Greetings from down under Rich.
On the 1HD-Ts, the pistons are actually quite good and aren't usually the point of failure in those engines. There's lots of folks here in Australia playing around with 80 Series Cruisers (which had the HD-T as an option) and the most common problems are lifting the head, cracking the head, or more often cracking the block between cylinders 5 and 6. Frequently the crack in the block occurs below the piston crown and above the rings at bottom dead centre, where you'll never see the crack unless you pull the pistons out altogether. The 1HD-T was problematic from the start, with Toyota issuing a recall for the big end bearings, which were failing with low kilometers, and the bearings Toyota fitted under the recall weren't great either.
On the FTE, they're pretty well understood over here, and there's not all that much that goes wrong with them. The 100 series (full size wagon) and the 70 series (utes and troop carriers) had different variations of the FTE, with the 100 series version being fitted with the intercooler and an immobiliser. They both had different throttle pedals and different Engine Control Units, but I'm fairly sure the Engine Drive Unit (often called the spill driver or spill control driver) are the same.
The biggest problems FTEs have over here are caused by the EDU/spill driver playing up, which results in the exact problems you were having, cranking but absolutely no fuel. It can be anything from a bad earth, corroded plug to the circuit board in the EDU being fried. I've had hells own trouble with an EDU that didn't have a good enough ground connection from the aluminium backing plate of the EDU.
The other major problem FTEs have is they bend rods at 1000 newton meters of torque. The rest of the motor and injector pump are capable of far more, but the rods aren't good enough.
Lastly, on the subject of their "woeful" power and torque figures, that was entirely intentional on Toyota's end. Even the 1VD-FTV, the 4.5 litre V8 that Toyota brought to the Australian market in 07 to replace the FTE makes a similar level of power stock. Toyota did this so they wouldn't have to put in major work upgrading the clutch, gearbox, transfer case and diffs of the 70 series.
A handful of folks over here chasing big torque from an FTE usually end up putting slightly modified rods from a Nissan ZD30CRD (used in the Patrol, Navara and some light trucks and busses) as well as oversized injectors. That's it, that's all they need.
They're a fantastic engine, and considering we didn't get the Cummins 6BT family of engines over here in huge numbers of road going vehicles, they're among the best diesel engines we have over here. And that's coming from a Nissan guy.
Aussie here….G Turbo in Perth needs the credit for the mad Patrol at the start. My 100 series Sahara has a 1hdfte in it. Best motor ever, period.
Dc turbos. Gturbo are dog shit
The 15bft is better
@@MakingMoneyyy857i agree gturbo are garbage overpriced trash. Paying for a label
@@leftardtroller yup have enough content creators on the payroll and you can sell shit for gold
Australians about to mob the comment section 😂 The FTE is Gods motor, as close to perfection as you will ever get
strange seeing an FTE in a "new look" 70
FTE vs VDJ is where the real drama is at
@@boostbogan fuckin oath🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘
@@lukelahnstein its not a new look cruiser they just put new headlights in it.
(goes back to look again...) Oh, yeah! 😅 Good point,@@jasonswift7098.
@@lukelahnstein not the original engine
Hey mate, just on the stuff you were saying about the 1HD-T
Everything you mentioned about the piston crowns cracking once turbod is all related to the early model 1HZ, being they didn't have oil squirters and were indirect injection.
The 1HD-T is the direct injection factory turbo engine which has piston oil squirters to keep them cooled, haven't seen many 1HD-Ts with cracked pistons.
The engine block is the same between all 4 of the engines compared, slightly upgraded on the late 1HZ apparently, keeping Inline with the FT and Fte. The 1HZ ran from the beginning in Australia , 1990 all the way to the last FTE in 2007
Although there is no comparison to the 1HD-FTE or the 1HD-FT, the 1HD-T is able to hold it's own
The main downside of the 1HZ and 1HD-T reliability is the position of the fuel bowl on the top of the piston, in a 1HZ and 1HD-T the fuel is injected offset to the side of the piston, which is fine, but commonly causes increased wear in the rod bearings (you'll commonly see people replacing the rod bearings on a 1HD-T every 150-200000kms)
The biggest improvement to the 1HD-FT and FTE was the injection of fuel was in the middle of the piston crown, and the fuel bowl being in the middle, meaning the motor is getting combustion on top the piston dead center. The motor runs perfectly smooth, no kicking or messing around, you'll see people putting a 50cent Australian coin on its side and showing it doesn't move while running.
As for the 1HD-FT to FTE improvement, unfortunately you lose the reliable mechanical injection, replaced with electronic injection, although still a mechanical fuel pump, not a sucky common rail.
The biggest upgrade though on the FTE is the rounded shape at the bottom of the fuel bowl in the piston crown, this greatly improved the dispersion of the fuel in the bowl, meaning less centred heat on the piston.
If you ever need any help with these cruiser motors, I've owned over 40 of these, worked and lived in one for years travelling and have many contacts in the industry here in Australia so feel free to hit me up :)
The 1hd fte is gods motor. They are simply the best cross of reliable and power Toyota have ever built in a diesel. I have done around 500,000km in my 1hdftes. The only real problem I’ve had is a poor earth. They are known for holding a little bit rpm at gear changes (in manuals)but is fixed by recalibrating the spill control valve on the injector pump. This will often return but is more of an engine trait than a concern.
Aussie here, I have a 96 troopy with the 1HZ , greatest Toyota motor ever, slow as hell ,but they are deadset reliable.
It’s why they’re still being made.
Great show.
Although the 1hd-fte didn't run, as a diehard landcruiser nut who moved to Canada from Australia, this is my favorite episode!
You’ll be right, eventually you’ll click onto the fact the Nissan Patrol it a better vehicle 😁
@@markroycroft8203 Nobody likes boiling kettles! 🤣
@@j.d.8593 or splintering driveline components 😜
@@markroycroft8203 Makes a great lawn ornament after the TD has exploded.
I am another Long time Land Cruiser enthusiast... To be pedantic.... you missed the predecessor engines in the 'H' series... the 2H and 12H-T. Both from the 80's. Gear driven pushrods, so no OHC. All mechanical injection, 12V. the 2H is NA and ID, the 12H-T is DI and Turbo'd. I got a 12H-T in an HJ61 wagon imported form Japan. THIS engine is the true analog to the 12V Cummins. It sounds exactly like a little baby cummins. Just did a 8,000km road trip from Calgary to Texas this year. So satisfying to drive. Excellent video, thanks!
1vd-ftv is best toyota diesel
@@jackelracer593 Maybe. I would love to drive one for 35 years to confirm your assertion. ;)
@@jackelracer593 after 1HZ😉
12HT. The only way it fails is to turn off.
@@peterstraub7175dont get me wrong, the 12H-T is probably the best diesel that toyota has made, but in saying that, I've had my VJD79 with the 1VD for about 8 years and done roughly 400,000km and never had an issue. It was tuned about 300,000km ago and it is starting to get tired now, but thats expected when its pushing 100hp more than factory settings.
I've seen the 1VD's do close to a million km in Western Australia with regular maintenance completed.
Land Cruisers and patrols for aussies are the American and Canadian powerstoke/cummins
your dreaming.. theres no comparison.. toyotas are stuk in 1940.. ausie. u.s. 4x4 driver. never touch a toyota, they have inherant problems.like. DONT TOUCH THEM LEAVE IT STD.only good thing about the 80. is the coil susp.. toyota lost the plot after that..
We have elec landcrusiers like that in Australia in the mining industry a company called Murray’s engineering does them
GB auto
Being a middle east truck, the 79 you got a hold of probably came with a 1GR-FE V6 gas engine. None of the 4-door 79's ever came factory with an 1HD-FTE (though a lot of Africa spec units would have had the 1HZ). Someone must have converted it. You won't have any difficulty selling the 1HD-FTE. So long as it's in decent condition, there'll be a line-up of Land Cruiser nerds interested.
Correct
@@edwardpeters4700 we got 1hd-fte 79's here in Australia from 2000-2007
Correct , when he opened the bonnet I thought it wasn’t right
@alittlehusky5 yes, but weren't those all single cabs? I thought the first 4 doors outside of things like JDM fire trucks got the VDJ?
@@alittlehusky5the HDJ79 you're talking about wasn't a 4 door.
I prefer the 1hdt as it has no electric components. Thats why i swapped out the 1hz in my 75 series ute with a 1hdt with a tdo6 sl2 18g and intercooler running around 300hp. No issues for 300,000kms so far 🍻
Just one note about the egr valve. Exhaust gases are not re-burned, they function as inert gases to reduce ratio of oxygen in intake air. Lower oxygen ratio means lower peak combustion temperatures which results in lower NOx gases production during combustion phase (when peak power is not required).
Is it my imagination or do you think there is some truth in this, but I blanked of my egr valve in my 1HZ and I thought I felt a slight drop in power. Is this possible?
@@anthonybaiocchi3028 yes, because the egr gases retard the combustion process. So if you remove them, it leaves the timing grossly over advanced.
@@NavyCuda cheers!
The injection timing is very retarded anyway as high peak pressure (ie decent injection timing) causes nox emissions.
If it's a true mechanical setup (without ecu) then you can adjust the injection timing by clocking the pump
You can also take off and clean the EGR occasionally
Mate of mine has a FTE in a 100 series cruiser. With a "uni chip" and tune through a auto make around 300hp on 35's. Anyway his timing belt broke and it broke every single rocker arm and bent the main rocker shaft. We replaced the broken bits, lashed the valves and it started with no sign of a dead hole. He went on to finish his holiday and 10,000km later it's still going! kissed on the waahoo is a understatement. I was 100% convinced it would have needed a rebuild
In mines in Australia they have full electric versions of this ute already 🍻
Had that problem with one of them. Turned out to be the spill valve driver. (Little black box). Changed that and now I’m at about 500,000klms and still running like a new one.
the, 4.2 12v 1HZ is very easy to work on (saying from experience) they are awesome!!!
Over here in Australia, the FTE is every Landcruiser owner’s wet dream, personally I have a 1HZ. The bottom end if the same as the FTE with the same forged crank and strong single bottom girdle main cap rather the individual caps. The 1HZs are slow as anything from factory but take turbos very well, especially due to the insanely strong bottom end. I turboed mine asoon as I bought it at 400,000kms since it was unbearable to drive but now it actually goes very well.
Everyone I've known that's turboed a 1hz how had dramas in under 40,000ks
Not mine, quite happy with my 200 series…..
There's a difference between the early and late 1HZs
The crank in the late 1HZs is the upgraded stronger crank you find in the FT and FTE
As well as block improvements and the main improvement, piston oil squirters
The discrepancies you see with people talking about the 1HZ blowing up once you add a turbo usually comes from people with late Hzj78/9+HZJ105s having no issues, and the early HZJ80 and Hzj75 engines getting too hot pistons and egts and cracking
Aussie here, this is one of the best engines ever made. Read up on the build process at Toyota, it makes sense why these last. Huge power gains to be made with minor mods.
Aussie fte owner here also. 700k kilometers on the clock without a rebuilld. Best motor ever made.
I can count with my fingers how many land cruisers I've seen in my life but never seen one as a truck/ute kind of thing.
Someone has probably mentioned this, but I'd guess the reason the bonnet scoop has a 6 on it (missing a V) is because it's a bonnet from a V8 diesel 70.
I’m just a shade tree mechanic i got nothing to offer but i love watching the videos so i can try and learn something new!! Looking forward to this build !!
As an underground mechanic, you are correct by saying they are abused. I never seen anything like it. Locked in second gear and to the floor all the time. Just screaming
I am also an underground mechanic and I completely agree. It’s unreal how much abuse those trucks take.
I might be biased as I own an 80 Series with one but the 1HD-FT was the king of these engines; all the updated internals of the FTE without the E pump of the FTE. Nice little fact also is that the later FTE turbos as found in the 2003-onwards 100 series were VNT and are quite capable little units once upgraded.
FTE has a harder block and crank
different pistons, slightly higher compression ratio, different camshaft profile
lot more differences than just the pump.
Massively capable. I'm marine config iirc they were good for 315hp
UPGRADED.. there sht std. all of them..only good thing about an 80, is the coil susp.. other than that, THERE GARBAGE..i have a 4.2 mwm. no computer no glow plugs, 700nm.. 240 hp.. tows 4.5t. & i use 5th. towing, up hill.. toyota suk. 1940 bs..
@@harrywalker968did someone piss in your cereal this morning? 🤣
1HD-FT owner here too. It's a legend.
Something to note is about the hollow cast cranks. They are known to flex and will wear out the crank bearings between cyl 3 and 4. Some guys do a bearing roll when the cam belt is due especially if you have it making a bit more power. My 1hd did me 460 000 km and i live in little nz
Thanks for the info!
1HD????
T, maybe!
@@shanebrbich5698 just refering to the motors in general
@@shanebrbich5698 FT in a 80 series
@@DEBOSSGARAGE everythingwrong.. it doesnt have gas struts or hinge springs.. 1940.. the gearbox is weak as piss. 1940.. the engine is gutless. 1940.. there cramped pogo stix. 1940..there noisy. 1940.. the front diff is weak. 1940. it has cv joints. 1940..THERE ALL GARBAGE..
We have a 92 1hz 75 series, absolute bullet proof, and just 2 years ago we brought a new 79 with the v8 motor before they stopped making them and it came with the dpf emissions and crap and got it taken out instantly. Not legal at all but much safer for farm use like the mining industry. Not good to do a burn which defeats the purpose of a dpf anyway… in a stubble paddock during harvest at average 40 degree Celsius weather and then paddock catch on fire…
I have a 1992 80 series Landcruiser GXL with a factory 1HDT engine in it, with about 485,000 km's. I previously had a 1997 80 series Landcruiser DX with a 1HZ engine in it. They both had twin tanks - 95 litres and 50 litres. The 1HZ had better mileage, but was gutless on hills. On extremely steep hills it was reduced to 1st or 2nd gear at about 10-20 km/h. On the 6 km long hill climbing out of Adelaide towards Melbourne, I could only go a max of 80 km/h. The 1HDT, with a factory turbo, is more powerful, and flies up all hills. I get about 1,050 km's from 130 litres of diesel, just driving to and from work in the suburbs. The 1HD-FT and 1HD-FTE engines are recognised in Australia as the ducks guts of Landcruiser engines. Serious 4wders, and farmers and miners in Australia buy Toyota Landcruisers. The Nissan Patrol GX and GU from the 90's and 2000's, with the well respected TD42 engine, were great, and their drivelines are unkillable - stronger than Landcruiser's. Landrovers and Jeeps are used as mall crawlers. 'If you want to go out 4wding, use a Landrover. If you want to get back home, use a Landcruiser.'
Malaysia here, I have no hate on that engine. They are good for what it is. But it is common to see such electrical
Issues.
What is interesting is that this shape with the hood scoop only came with the 1VD in Australia.
Might be a hottie from Aus. Apparently our stolen Cruisers end up in the Middle East.
whats a 1vd. sex germ??. why do toyota have alphabet noodles names, instead of what it is..the 79 series 4.5tdi are crap. my 4.2 tdi with no computer, no glow plugs, has more nm..700nm.. single turbo.. 3 valve . ohc. 3'' system std..
He said in the video that it has a V6 petrol originally, it's been swapped in with an FTE
@@bugulugs7169 Was that confirmed or assumed? It may have had a bonnet/hood swap.
We own a small hybrid vehicle repair shop in scarborough and two of my guys have worked over a decade on 1HZ and 1HD. All version of it. We are happy to help.
your knowledge and expertise never ceases to astound me. i truly belive that you deserve to have your own manufactoring company for main stream daily drivers. the engine reviews are some of my favorite videos that you do even though half of what you say is way over my head lol.
Thanks!
Makes total sense what your doing. Look forward to the updates
Over here in New Zealand there be some that reckon the most reliable Toyota diesel is the one converted to a V8, petrol...
V8 bonnet has been put on it for the look of the scoop. Not v6
Unless the bonnet has been changed probably find thats a vdj model that came with the 1vdftv 4.5L v8 diesel that has a large top mount intercooler to suit that bonnet. 1hdfte is common swap in patrols and that one didnt sound like td or the like so most likely why its featured at the beginning for those wondering. Being a mechanical DI injector your everyday injection shop would be able to rebuild the injectors resonable price, here in oz last time i got some was in the region of $100ea. Gen toyota prices for stuff like that are crazy anywere. Regular and preventative maintatance and servicing like anything. We have one we service original long block / turbo / fuel pump well over 750,000km . Love to see what you do with it. You'll fond they have a plastic water pump impeller but have never seen a genuine one fail. Awesome engine.
As others have stated, that solenoid is not the standard shutoff solenoid you normally see. This solenoid is commanded for every injection event. It would be similar to a 6.5L DS pump or a VP44 in this way.
My father in law has a 100 Series Cruiser with that same motor. 100% bulletproof
Some of those timing belts are stupid easy to replace, I did the timing belt on my 1KZ in 45 minutes in my sister-in-law's driveway immediately after buying it. 25 of those minutes were from dropping a socket and having to pull the belly pan to find it. Also keep in mind that timing belts have to be replaced on a schedule too no matter how many miles they've done because rubber parts age even when sitting there unused. If your timing belt is old, replace it, even if the miles aren't there yet. Too much at risk.
I just did the timing belt on my 1kz, easy with the exception of compressing the tensioner.
True true
The Landcruisers we used underground here in 🇨🇦were the N/A variant, and honestly they were VERY RELIABLE. So per regulations these trucks were locked to 1st and 2nd only (5 speed) and 4 Low. So naturally these would be on red line ALL day every day, 24/7, 365. They used to get so wore out that once you shut them off, boiling hot or ice cold it would never start, the only thing that would get them going again would be Rust Check “Red” spray lube, anything else they’d knock and not start. Being one of a dozen mechanics there I’ve only had to change 2 engines due to other unrelated issues like the harmonic balancer sheering off. The front ends are like glass, from differentials, cv axles, wheel bearings, the list goes on. Good times.
Happy to see you guys doing these. I've owned a land cruiser 100 series with one of these for over a decade and it's been good
The 12HT was the best engine, in my opinion, everything mechanical, inline injection pump and gear driven camshaft. Outdated but bulletproof.
Funny how all the bullet proof Toyota owners know all the issues, yet ironically they never have any. 😂 That will fire them up haha.
Great videos !
Real Toyota diesels have timing gears not a belt and no electronics 1 wire run. 3B,13BT,2H,12HT FTW
we have many 1hd-t , FT & FTEs in stock & a yanmar 6lp high power mechanical pump if you want to convert it to mechanical
1hd-t from 1993 had revised pistons, injectors, pump, etc - very reliable
still worth upgrading big end bearings on all variants if going for power
You should travel to Thailand. Get your hands on the Isuzu 4J engine series. Thais are extracting amazing power levels both from the mechanical and electronic versions of these engines.
I have never seen a 79 dual cab with a 1HDT-FTE. We only get them in the twin turbo V8.
19:12 This will be the world's first 70 series hybrid electric toyota land cruiser "HD". I believe the 2024 toyota land cruiser "prado"/(250 series) Is a hybrid. I daily drive A 1HD-T powered 80 series in the U.S and it is underpowered. Fun but underpowered. Also I think your friends from the skid factory, Know all about these land cruisers.
Oh yes!
I own a one of these with the 1VD ,TD V8.
My previous 79 series had the 1hdfte. Single cab.
By far the best motor made was the fte.
The HDJ79 & HDJ78 (1HDFTE) was only sold in Australia.
If you need tech tips let me know.
The 100 series fte has a more powerful output than the fte in the 78, 79 series
You will pull a reliable 800nm from these all day long.
That gearbox, if you put a post 2016 with the longer 2nd and 5th gear much nicer driving manners.
H150 h151 are the early box the gearbox you want is the H152. Same strength,better gearing
Yep the black box spill valve controller is what I’m thinking. It has to be grounded the black box does. I had on that was loose on a battery box so tightened it and added a ground to the battery. Fixed the no start issue.
Hi Matthew, I have similar problem with my 100 series - crank but no start. Can you confirm where you ran the additional ground wires? I have already replaced the black box (EDU) which made no difference so then I added ground wires from the EDU heat sink back to the battery negative and this still did not sort the issue.
Hi mate, you have done it right. The other part I had play up latter was one of the plugs on the fuel pump was not connecting properly. It was the speed sensor in the fuel pump not getting signal. I just tweaked the connectors and that fixed it. Is yours a factory 100? Or have you converted it into another car? Because the 100’s have the immobilizer that can be an issue with swaps.
@@matthewclements4932 Yes it is the standard factory setup - the small key icon on the dash goes out as soon as I insert the key so think the immobilizer is ok. I have checked the resistances for all sensors/actuators and they check out ok with specs in the workshop manual. This made me think that the pump itself was stuffed, however everyone I speak to says the pumps do not fail in this way ie one day running spot on, next no start. I did try dabbing 12v on the spool valve while cranking the engine and managed to get a random firing and lots of black smoke so would suggest that the EDU is not firing. Strange one really - I will be having another go at it when I get chance. I need to see what is happening at the EDU - is it being told to fire and is it producing the correct signal to the spill valve. Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
never thaught i'd see the day, best Toyota engine ever!
Now do the Nissan TD42.
Well, I never thought I would see a video about this engine on deboss.
It would be cool to see a video on a mitsubishi 4M41 (the Common rail one specifically) or the 4D56 also common rail.
That land cruiser confused me because it's Middle East spec, but has a diesel.... that just doesn't happen.
Also that shape never came with the fte, only earlier narrow nose models.
We have a 1hd-t in our coaster bus, total weight about 6300kg and the 1hd just works. Will siton the open road speed limit all-day, altnough fuel consumption is much better around 90.
Also a fuel knocking issue on the earlier hdj79s. Fixed by fitting an inline filter to the return from the injection pump. Otherwise great motors we have 2 with over 450k kms.
Got a 92' 80 with a 1HDT and over 620xxxkms. Glad i did the timing belt when i did, had a crack on the cam gear going from the bolt almost all the way out to the teeth! Still pulls like a train and never misses a beat
Eats the modern v8 models any day..
Best diesel 1hdfte best petrol if you dont mind the fuel bill is the 1fzfe, slap a turbo on it she loves the torque!!
Love the knowledgeable comments and perspectives.
I enjoy all Deboss content but I super enjoy any progress on the Edison project, so this video is a pleasant unexpected surprise. :)
i have one in my boat .. yanmar 6LP fantastic engine. 350 hp i have heard the on the road ones had head cracking issues between the valves the video of the yamaha engine in your video is literally the one in my maxum boat now !
Define perfect, if perfection is pure reliability over performance and efficiency, you can’t beat the Toyota 2H, everything after that is a compromise.
I own a Landcruiser 100 series with a 1HD-FTE in South Africa with over 500 000 km without any problems. I’m planning to import it to Alberta Canada in January 2025 So I’m loving all your video’s form the African series and nou this one with the 1HD-FTE
Pretty sure the the 79 dual cab never came out with a 1hdt fte.
Happy to be proven wrong.
79’s have a bonnet scoop for the 1VD engine with top mount intercooler
You might have got a dud.
I got a 1hz 70 series and I’m ok with how slow it is. Want it to be a family heirloom
Hey Boss…. Access mining (whom I used to work for) sells and leases these Toyotas for underground mining. They can get anything you may need. Miller in Sudbury does the same thing.
Looks like you're trying to just power the spill valve with 12V directly. These pumps don't utilise a simple 12V fuel cut solenoid, they are operate at over 100V with a PWM signal from the EDU on the inner guard.
We run those trucks with 1HZ in underground mining they are incredibly tough units. I’ve driven thousands of kms in those trucks in 4 low with my foot in the throttle body all day long they are caked in mud and run forever.
those engines are one of the most reliable engines ever made
you should have bought the HZJ75, that is a proper Land Cruiser
1HZ THE WORLD 🌏
Bro, Peugeot diesel engines are perfect.
Nice.
You should look at 12hts they are very reliable my one had 480xxx kms and ran pretty good had a bad injector but now the motors getting rebuilt cause I’m putting in my fj45
I think you'll find the 80 series landcruiser is the one to beat.
Worth mentioning its not all bad with the electronic pump, they are certainly a big step up over the mechanical pump for refined driving and slightly better economy. As much as these where a rugged diesel they where also refined enough to go into Toyota's LC100 'kind of luxury' wagon. A lot of tuners here in Australia like the electronic pump also as it gives absolute control over timing and fuel delivery for having the nicest possible driving car even at 300+ HP builds.
Also really cool to see this is a Variable Geometry turbo on this one, I believe we only ever got wastegated turbos in Australia with our slightly less difficult emissions. The gt2359V seems a good OEM size for the 1hd, but is defiantly too small on the later 4.5 v8 engines.
This would be a good one for the Cummins propane, I believe running propane in confined spaces isn’t as bad as the diesel would be. I know lots of warehouses and shops that run propane forklifts.
That way if you do have to run the generator to power up, you’re still good for underground 😉👍
Holy shot, 1 minute from upload and numerous views!!
DEBOSS IS THE BOSS!!!
My brother just got a 98' LC with the 1HD-FTE in the states. It's pretty sweet so far, sounds like a tractor lol.
The 1HD-FT is my dream engine.
Can we get an update on the milwaukee tool box that you bought some years ago, just to hear if it is holding up to your expectations or would you recommend something else. Thanks, Really enjoy the videos, is missing videos with farm equipment repairs with Kevin, but I know that you are a busy guy, do love these engine videos, keep up the good work.
Its not made by Milwaukee. I'm sure the same box is out there with a different color cheaper. Its holding up fine, but I don't like the layout much, but that is just personal preference
Aussie here, absolutely love this as I’ve got a 2012 VDJ 79 Series with the 4.5 1VD but it’s funny yous are putting the 2.8 in it because that’s the same engine the new 79 series in Australia have from factory
it's a Chinese built Cummins... not the 1GD Toyota motor
My Canadian BJ60 came with a 3.4 l Hino all mechanical diesel. Indirect injection, gear-driven camshaft and some analog gizmo that was repairable and didn't make a no-start. It had the same power as my MGB.
Power, comfort and emissions would make me move ahead twenty years, but the size of the wagon was perfect.
Common block and crankshaft through the family .
I own a 1hz daily driver, bought third hand 20 years ago. Is it a race car up a hill ? No, 1hdT will run away from me on a hill. No sensors, no ECU. Change oil, filter, timing belt and tensioner at specified intervals, and good to go. I also own a Nissan TD 27, which is even better - no timing belt, all gears. I love tham both.
Former sailboat owner. I loved my diesel.
1HDfte were the ultimate Landcruiser engine u guys should look into the 1VDftv 4.5 V8 nearly as reliable good sounding diesel
The V8 was absolutely not 'nearly as reliable'. Yes they are not a bad engine for a modern emissions compliant diesel, but there was way too many inherent issues and design stupidity for them to be comparable. Not to mention much worse fuel economy and absolute nigh mare of working on the 1VD.
The 1HZ is the one you want if you´re going on a safari in Africa. It might not be the most powerful engine but it always get you were you´re going :) I had a Landcruiser HJ60 with the 2H engine which is the predecessot to the 1HZ. 4 liter diesel with 100hp and 5000km oil change intervals. It runs forever if you maintain it properly but not very fast...
It’s a shame to see Toyota make mistakes but they’ve never been perfect. I’m an Australian and I’ll never drive anything but a Toyota ESPECIALLY when my life depends on it but I’ve always driven second hand Toyotas and my favourite ones are are all 30 years old and all FAR stronger than any Euro or British trash.
I would drive American or Australian (and have) long before I’d own anything British or Euro.
there is actually the perfect engine say hello to my holden 186s
The ugliest most useless lump of iron that you’ll ever see.
Im pretty sure the Landcruiser is on the Australian coat of arms.
If you remove the heater grid and the butterfly plate air flow improves. Oil change intervals critical for these engines otherwise the valvetrain will wear out prematurely, needle rollers in the roller rockers $$$, and the oil pumps need replacing approximately 300k, or they are know for big end bearing delamination.
Here in Australia it is a very popular engine to modify, but if you don't check oil pressure and big end bearings before dialing the boost up on a aftermarket turbo your asking for big trouble.. Toyota cultists will Denie any issues with this engine but if you want high performance from it you must do high maintenance and preventative modifications.
Head studs, ACL race bearings, premium oil, FASS fuel system, large intercooler, valve clearances every major service, high performance balancer and keyway, etc etc.
Aussie HDJ80 series /1hdt owner here. Strongly recommended to replace the con rod bearings. I've had one let go at 416,000km and a rod out the side with no warning signs on a religiously serviced engine. Off topic, I also have a FJ80 with a dead 3fe and was contemplating using the R2.8 and ZF8HP but have now decided to run BMW M57 ZF6. If 1hdfte wasn't so expensive I'd just stick with Toyota motors but the M57 is gaining popularity in Straya.
The R2.8 is a pile of crap, I did dozens of swaps when it was first released years ago and had numerous catastrophic engine failures, so I haven't done one since. It's made in China Cummins.
The Isuzu 4JJ1 is a much better choice for a diesel swap.
@DarrelJones-fh2wx yep came to the same conclusions. Also looked at the Isuzu but I think the BMW X5 donor is a better total package in terms of being a 6 cylinder and already having a great gearbox attached. Fitting to an 80 series is relatively straightforward, or so it seems.
@aaronhogan2371 6 cylinders is the way to go, 4 cylinder engines have terrible inherent balance.
I have 2003 Landcruiser Ute with the 1HD-FTE and I love it, done 330,000 km with blocked EGR and 3 inch straight exhaust, it will see me out! Very capable and ultra reliable, only issue I've had is the plastic tanks on the radiator cracked, replaced with ally Terrain Tamer unit.
there still gutless noisy, cramped expensive non fuel efficient crap.. my 2002 4.2tdi. has 700nm. 240 hp. no computer, no polution bs. ohc. 3 valve, 3'' system std.. tows 4t up hill in 5th, yes, i use 5th.gets 14 lt 100. weighs 4t empty... its not cramped. or NOISY, did i say that. 330,000 is nothing.. a 7.3 s/duty will do 1 million miles, at least..
@@harrywalker968 see you in 20 years ...
The FTE pumps are very susceptible to the black death, I have replaced several for this reason. As you know factory filtration is not adequate.
One HD FTE great engine have a look at D4D engines on RUclips to me It looks like the cars either had an engine conversion or a bonnet conversion because there’s a scoop in the bonnet that should be blowing through an intercooler and it’s incredibly untidy under the Bonnet, so I wouldn’t be picking too hard on the engine, it’s probably the Muppets that installed it and having worked on Toyotas for most of my life. The electronics in the car won’t be suited to that engine if it’s been converted from something else. Have fun.
Ever try a CO2 extinguisher for a runaway diesel?better than plugging air intake. If she’s old and leaky it can pull air in from another source. CO2 is like an off switch!
Toyota currently make these in Australia with a 2.8l diesel engine and auto gearbox
And what a cluster…. that is. You see new ones on the lot, never saw that with the 1HDTFEs and V8s. The only test drive I was able to get with the new 1HDFTE was with one that hadn’t had a tray fitted yet. They were all sold off the truck.
My perfect dream truck
TKS 4 sharing 😊.
I have the 1hz in my landcruiser, sure she's slow, but she's got half a million on the clock and still untouched
Wrong At 5:15 . According to official Toyota Diesel engine nomenclature IF an engine is DIRECT INJECTION it will receive the number "1" assigned to its name 12HT, 14B, 15B , 1KZ, 1HZ...etc.
So this must be an DIRECT INJECTION ENGINE.
Toyota also offers INDIRECT INJECTION ENGINES from DIRECT INJECTION models. Examples are the 11B and 4B.