Your video help me very much thank you! I' have a 1- 6 flash code error and CYC said it was the Hall sensor so they where going to send me a new motor to replace in my kit, so after opening it up i cleaned the gearbox and i will restuff it full of fresh grease, your video is great for references. it is as clean as yours at 10 minutes marks. When i receive the motor i will try and make a rebuild video.
if i was the designer, using 3D CAD i would wet lube the gearbox sealed to include the bearings and vented from the top with a one way vent and drain casting duct. gearbox oil is best to dissipate heat evenly and lubricate with added benefit of noise reduction reducing friction to minimise current draw efficiency resulting in longer battery life of 40% so imagine a 100km range improved tp 140km for free. thank you for sharing your rebuild with us on youtube . . . keep up the good work
Thanks for the video. As I'm installing one of these units very much appreciate a maintenance breakdown. Because I'm an aircraft tech I understand preventative maintenance is more important than an autopsy after the failure. Moly is a good additive for high load rubbing applications more than the high rotation loads in a planetary so as you stated as an additive it always helps but a grease that stays stuck to the gears and doesn't thermally change state is probably the most important characteristics. Operational tests will prove but I think your grease choice may have been better than manufacturers. A moly only based grease was definitely not my first choice on that outboard roller bearing. Have seen this in most first generation moly greases yes the moly is a powder and even dry it saved that bearing from self destruction but the carrier or base lubricant was gone...?...broke down......flung out or liquefied? A proven moly hybrid multi grease was the best choice. Another suggestion is Aeroshell 64 formerly 33MS is a synthetic multi use with moly. It is available worldwide. Very good thorough video!!!
I have been wanting to pick a kit up but I have no idea about how to get it in the EU. I have been gathering information on what all I must be aware of before getting into this so thanks for the video!
Great video thanks for posting! Completely unrelated question... :) What rear fender do you have mounted on your back wheel? Do you recommend it for snowy or muddy conditions in winter riding?
Thanks for the video. I have a couple of questions: 1) Is there any recommended routine maintenance apart from changing the grease at 3,000km? 2) Do you think the gasket issue is what caused your problem, and do you think there is a solution eg. replacing the gasket with silicone? 3) Would you add any waterproofing to the wiring? eg. Filling the heat shrink on the harness, covering the phase wire entry points on the motor and the phase wire connectors with silicone 4) Can you list which tools were needed for the maintenance? Thanks in advance!
1) Frequent cleaning of the external chain is a must. 2) You can see in the movie, that gasket was broken, so that led to water ingress into the gearbox compartment. Silicon is OK, but it will be difficult to open the cover later on. 3) I'm installing all these BAC855 controllers in the plastic box. Only in this way, I can be certain, that there won't be any water ingress into main harness connector. However new controllers comes with connector potted in silicone, so maybe box is no longer required. 4) You can see tools I'm using in the movie. I don't see a point to give specific links, since I bought them in Norway over the last few years. If you live abroad, you need to find them in your local shops, unless you want to import that stuff from Norway.
This is fun thanks really enjoyed watching this. I purchased the X1 Stealth and I'm not sure if it is normal that I always hit the foldback of the motor witch is 70 degrease in the XML file witch was modified to 80 and I'm still heating up really fast in a few miles, do you have this issue? I'm planning to install some heat sink on the motor to see if I can run high performances longer.
If you ride only on throttle, than you will heat the motor fairly quickly, especially if you ride long uphill runs. I ride using PAS only, than motor never heats up. This motor was designed for riding with PAS primarily with short bursts with throttle. For throttle runs X1 Pro motor is more suitable.
Hi there, Many thanks for this video first of all! Quick question if I may. When you pull the main sprocket off with the gear puller (which as you found is quite hard to remove) is it easy to replace the sprocket back on or does it need to be pressed in with another special tool, and also how does the small metal locking bar work, I mean do you have to do something with it in order to remove or replace the sprocket back on? Many thanks.
You just need to gently pat the sprocket with rubber mallet to install it back in place. There is a recess in motor axle for the lock piece, so the lock needs to be in place before you install a sprocket.
Thanks for the videos I really appreciate them and enjoy watching I have a stealth on order. What battery and you using Eg max continuous current ? Brand? Model? Voltage? Please and thanks
I built battery myself using Sony VC7 cells and Hailong box. It comes with 48V 30A BMS. It gives around 1500W continuous power, perfect match for this motor.
@@LierskogenEbikes Thanks mate. Yes that would work nicely. Running mine on 36v so I'm going with the factory 36v batteries and getting 2. Looks like it might be possible to run the gearbox with oil not grease. Would depend on motor being well sealed
I put it back in place and applied silicone grease for O-rings. Not the best solution but motor still works OK year after. But better to replace it with new O-ring.
It looks like it would be beneficial for the sake of heat absorption if you applied thermal paste on the outside of the motor housing so that it makes contact with the motor compartment better. has anybody tried this?
The brass gears is the same with the one you take out from the motors before service right? Not changing the Gears right? How is the noise and durability difference between the steel gears and the brass gears. Rgds
I have replaced original steel planet gears with brass ones. Noise is the same in my opinion, but motor runs more smoothly. The difference is subtle, so hard to catch it with camera microphone.
Motor is not heating up too much. Airflow is enough to cool it down. Noise comes from planetary gear and there is nothing you can do about it. That's a disadvantage of planetary gears, they are noisy by their nature.
Your video help me very much thank you! I' have a 1- 6 flash code error and CYC said it was the Hall sensor so they where going to send me a new motor to replace in my kit, so after opening it up i cleaned the gearbox and i will restuff it full of fresh grease, your video is great for references. it is as clean as yours at 10 minutes marks. When i receive the motor i will try and make a rebuild video.
Glad to hear it :)
if i was the designer, using 3D CAD i would wet lube the gearbox sealed to include the bearings and vented from the top with a one way vent and drain casting duct. gearbox oil is best to dissipate heat evenly and lubricate with added benefit of noise reduction reducing friction to minimise current draw efficiency resulting in longer battery life of 40% so imagine a 100km range improved tp 140km for free. thank you for sharing your rebuild with us on youtube . . . keep up the good work
Is it possible to make one way vent and drain casting duct?
@@andriyna2366 yes, very cheaply
@@MrSteelAu What will I need to o this?
@@andriyna2366 floating small ball for air in and tiny spring and ball for exhaust 2 way vent
@@MrSteelAu Do you know where to find it or how to make it in a way it would be almost invisible? Thanks.
Thanks for the video. As I'm installing one of these units very much appreciate a maintenance breakdown. Because I'm an aircraft tech I understand preventative maintenance is more important than an autopsy after the failure. Moly is a good additive for high load rubbing applications more than the high rotation loads in a planetary so as you stated as an additive it always helps but a grease that stays stuck to the gears and doesn't thermally change state is probably the most important characteristics. Operational tests will prove but I think your grease choice may have been better than manufacturers. A moly only based grease was definitely not my first choice on that outboard roller bearing. Have seen this in most first generation moly greases yes the moly is a powder and even dry it saved that bearing from self destruction but the carrier or base lubricant was gone...?...broke down......flung out or liquefied?
A proven moly hybrid multi grease was the best choice. Another suggestion is Aeroshell 64 formerly 33MS is a synthetic multi use with moly. It is available worldwide. Very good thorough video!!!
There is a lot of space for experimentation with different types of grease. Really hard to say which one would be the best.
I have been wanting to pick a kit up but I have no idea about how to get it in the EU. I have been gathering information on what all I must be aware of before getting into this so thanks for the video!
Well, you can buy it directly from CYC. Nothing unusual, their website is like any other Internet store.
Thanks for sharing!
this actually looks like a very service/repair friendly design, unusual to find now days in just about any technology..
Motor has modular design. If motor brakes down, you can just simply replace faulty component.
Great video thanks for posting! Completely unrelated question... :) What rear fender do you have mounted on your back wheel? Do you recommend it for snowy or muddy conditions in winter riding?
It's Zefal brand. I don't ride this bike in winter, I use fatbike with X1 Pro for winter season :)
Thanks for the video. I have a couple of questions:
1) Is there any recommended routine maintenance apart from changing the grease at 3,000km?
2) Do you think the gasket issue is what caused your problem, and do you think there is a solution eg. replacing the gasket with silicone?
3) Would you add any waterproofing to the wiring? eg. Filling the heat shrink on the harness, covering the phase wire entry points on the motor and the phase wire connectors with silicone
4) Can you list which tools were needed for the maintenance?
Thanks in advance!
1) Frequent cleaning of the external chain is a must.
2) You can see in the movie, that gasket was broken, so that led to water ingress into the gearbox compartment. Silicon is OK, but it will be difficult to open the cover later on.
3) I'm installing all these BAC855 controllers in the plastic box. Only in this way, I can be certain, that there won't be any water ingress into main harness connector. However new controllers comes with connector potted in silicone, so maybe box is no longer required.
4) You can see tools I'm using in the movie. I don't see a point to give specific links, since I bought them in Norway over the last few years. If you live abroad, you need to find them in your local shops, unless you want to import that stuff from Norway.
Great video ! Question ,. What gear puller did u use? ( and link if possible :)
www.biltema.no/bil---mc/bilverktoy/avtrekkere/kuleboltavdrager-2000019461
That is one beautifully built motor! Except for that gasket the build looks bulletproof! The noise is a big issue with me!
It's a little bit noisy, I agree. The new model should be better with this. CYC made a lot of changes in Gen 3 motors.
@@LierskogenEbikes Just looking at their Photon series...Looks good!
Im exactly like your chanel .
This is fun thanks really enjoyed watching this. I purchased the X1 Stealth and I'm not sure if it is normal that I always hit the foldback of the motor witch is 70 degrease in the XML file witch was modified to 80 and I'm still heating up really fast in a few miles, do you have this issue? I'm planning to install some heat sink on the motor to see if I can run high performances longer.
If you ride only on throttle, than you will heat the motor fairly quickly, especially if you ride long uphill runs. I ride using PAS only, than motor never heats up. This motor was designed for riding with PAS primarily with short bursts with throttle. For throttle runs X1 Pro motor is more suitable.
Thanks for the video. Could you tell where did you buy the brass bearings option or what are the part numbers?
You can get all the parts from CYC.
Hi there,
Many thanks for this video first of all!
Quick question if I may. When you pull the main sprocket off with the gear puller (which as you found is quite hard to remove) is it easy to replace the sprocket back on or does it need to be pressed in with another special tool, and also how does the small metal locking bar work, I mean do you have to do something with it in order to remove or replace the sprocket back on?
Many thanks.
You just need to gently pat the sprocket with rubber mallet to install it back in place. There is a recess in motor axle for the lock piece, so the lock needs to be in place before you install a sprocket.
@@LierskogenEbikes Thank you pal!
Thanks for the videos I really appreciate them and enjoy watching
I have a stealth on order.
What battery and you using
Eg max continuous current ?
Brand?
Model?
Voltage?
Please and thanks
I built battery myself using Sony VC7 cells and Hailong box. It comes with 48V 30A BMS. It gives around 1500W continuous power, perfect match for this motor.
@@LierskogenEbikes Thanks mate. Yes that would work nicely. Running mine on 36v so I'm going with the factory 36v batteries and getting 2. Looks like it might be possible to run the gearbox with oil not grease. Would depend on motor being well sealed
What kind of puller is that?
Hi there,
What is the element that appears mounted inside the Cover (5:45) ?
Is it a bearing or is it a seal?
You have bearing in the center.
what did you use in place of the damaged oring?
I put it back in place and applied silicone grease for O-rings. Not the best solution but motor still works OK year after. But better to replace it with new O-ring.
It looks like it would be beneficial for the sake of heat absorption if you applied thermal paste on the outside of the motor housing so that it makes contact with the motor compartment better. has anybody tried this?
I don't have any overheating problems in my motor, so I don't see a need for this thermal paste.
informative video ty, just wondering what xc bike model?
It's Carbomania trail frame from Aliexpress.
If you added a screw in the right place, you could just remove it to put grease in it.
The brass gears is the same with the one you take out from the motors before service right? Not changing the Gears right? How is the noise and durability difference between the steel gears and the brass gears. Rgds
I have replaced original steel planet gears with brass ones. Noise is the same in my opinion, but motor runs more smoothly. The difference is subtle, so hard to catch it with camera microphone.
@@LierskogenEbikes has your opinion on noise changed over time? Do you feel the noise has reduced since the brass gears have been broken in?
@@hiphopsuperman I run around 300 km with new gears. Hard to say if I hear any difference now.
can you line the motor housing w thermal paste to transfer heat from the motor and dampen noise?
Motor is not heating up too much. Airflow is enough to cool it down. Noise comes from planetary gear and there is nothing you can do about it. That's a disadvantage of planetary gears, they are noisy by their nature.
Hi i cant see the sprag clutch in your video ? Is this an upgrade ?
Which sprag clutch are you talking about?
@@LierskogenEbikes the one that is located on the output shaft between the gearbox and the shaft that the spocket fits
@@brendenmtb1872 There is one way clutch/beaing built in the planetary carrier.
Can you share where you purchase the gear puller? Thx!
There you go: www.biltema.no/bil---mc/bildeler/chassisdeler/for--og-bakstilling/barearm/endeleddavtrekker-2000019461
Can the CYC stealth fit on a 120mm fat bike frame?
No, you can't install Stealth on fatbikes. It fits frames with max 83mm bottom bracket width. You have to buy Pro motor.
What is the weight for this motor? And the battery? PRICE
Check CYC website.
Hi! It seems needle bearing died.
Bearing was fine. Good cleaning and grease fixed the problem.
The fact cyc x1 is called stealth is kinda funny considering how loud they are
It's more related to the size of it ;).
@@LierskogenEbikes oh ok
Why are you mumbling
English is not my native language. It may sound like I'm mumbling, but I can't speak with clear English accent :)
Mature answer to childish question! Haha! 👏👏👏