Just wanted to say thanks for taking the effort to share your repairs. I have a 1981 Minnie Winnie and it has some serious rear brake issues. Your hub repair has given me the incentive to move on as I wasn't sure what to expect.
Thanks so much for sharing your work. I so appreciate all you RUclipsrs sharing information that is so extremely helpful to each other to all of us. Every little tidbit makes a big difference in helping solve problems 👍
I have owned 5 chevy C10s 78-79 and 2, 82 model and 1 86 but no duellies. You have taught this 50 year old fart a lot. God bless you my farm friend from your Italian coal mining hillbilly friend.
Thanks for the walk through, Gotta old K30 SRW had a hell of a time pulling the drums. the lock nut tool made it a breeze. Had some shoes and cylinders to replace. Thanks for sharing. Saved me from spending $400+ at the garage. $90 parts and beer got it done.
Gurrrrr ... Grump... Gripe ... 86 Chevy with rear hubs in need of being taken off because they were turned incorrectly by the last owner (which was the Army BTW) truck bucks when breaking ... braking. Then again the first spelling may be correct. LOL I had no idea what I was looking at so I turned to the web-0-instruction. I think if I am going through all that fun I might as well throw some new brakes, seals and maybe bearings. This video was a big help, thank you for posting.
Farm out! Thanks Farmboy for your videos. I'm in the process of redoing my old motorhome brakes and you verified a few things I'd been unsure of. I'm at the point of knocking the studs out to remove the hub from the drum. Other videos showed using a hydraulic jack press to remove the studs. I don't have one and told my brother in law that on other vehicles hit the stud with lug nuts on. But I didn't know if that'd work with the heavier parts. Also that outside bearing snap ring retainer seemed mighty tight. But your idea of hitting the race some makes sense. You hit the race in tight to install it. Those seem the 2 hardest obstacles. Now when you remove the shoe spring retainers you use a regular pliers. I like to use a larger needle nose. And on the shoe springs I use vise grip pliers to grip the spring and push. Were those chickens I heard near the beginning of the 2nd video? I was raised on my dad's chicken and dairy cow farm. Thanks for your work.
exbioman You're welcome! Yeah, that snap ring can be a bugger to get out, especially on the newer trucks. As far as the lug studs go, just hit them straight and you shouldn't have any problems. Just be sure to seat them nice and tight in the new drum. And, yes those were chickens. My mom raises Bantams.
oh i man i have had some experience doing that with my old dually i had to replace all 16 studs on the rear cause someone tried to steal my wheels on mine and i didnt realise it till a few miles down the road and ruined the rims and studs so as always another great video
Helpful video, thanks! I don't have a dually, but same looking axles, hubs and drums. I going to take on this project. I'll post a video on my channel when done.
Just checked your channel out. Love those CUCV's! I wanted my '83 K20 to be a CUCV clone but still have the amenities like a/c. I need one of those grille guards.
Another video says the rear end oil is what comes in to lubricate your wheel bearings and thats why there is not another seal so it is suppold ta come in like that.
Do you know what size drum shoes go on these dually’s? Parts store said they have 2 1/2” or 3 1/2” wide for the C30. I have 3 1/2” in now and they scarred up the backing plate pretty good. Wondering if the previous owner put the wrong size in as I’ve always had problems with these brakes sticking. Thanks for any advice. Used your video a few years back to replace the seals.
Great video Farm boy. I have a 1976 and did the rear brakes 20 years ago myself. I never changed the axel seal and that looks easy enough. My question is: If you didn't change the bearings, then why did you remove the bearing races? Jack
If I'm not mistaken, to get the outer bearing out you have to remove the inner race and drive the outer bearing & race out. I wanted to inspect and pack the bearings. Thanks!
I,d let you use my sand blaster Jay,but whe,re a bit too far apart,Oh yea If I was you I would drain all the diff oil and add some Lucas to the new.Good video.
The bearings need the gear lube to flow down the axle tube to lubricate them,no grease in those,the seal keeps the gear lube from entering the drum
Just wanted to say thanks for taking the effort to share your repairs. I have a 1981 Minnie Winnie and it has some serious rear brake issues. Your hub repair has given me the incentive to move on as I wasn't sure what to expect.
Glad to help!
I needed to see the drum/hub separation process. Took awhile to find your vid,but thank you very much Sir!
Thanks so much for sharing your work. I so appreciate all you RUclipsrs sharing information that is so extremely helpful to each other to all of us. Every little tidbit makes a big difference in helping solve problems 👍
Thanks Jorge!
I have owned 5 chevy C10s 78-79 and 2, 82 model and 1 86 but no duellies. You have taught this 50 year old fart a lot. God bless you my farm friend from your Italian coal mining hillbilly friend.
Thanks Paulo! I appreciate the nice comment!
thank you... i just got an 80 dually.. i have never worked on one before.. i feel confident now.. i subscribed..
Thanks!
Thanks for the walk through, Gotta old K30 SRW had a hell of a time pulling the drums. the lock nut tool made it a breeze. Had some shoes and cylinders to replace. Thanks for sharing. Saved me from spending $400+ at the garage. $90 parts and beer got it done.
Thank you for this video. Many other videos say you need a press to press out the studs, but the hammer works fine.
Gurrrrr ... Grump... Gripe ... 86 Chevy with rear hubs in need of being taken off because they were turned incorrectly by the last owner (which was the Army BTW) truck bucks when breaking ... braking. Then again the first spelling may be correct. LOL I had no idea what I was looking at so I turned to the web-0-instruction. I think if I am going through all that fun I might as well throw some new brakes, seals and maybe bearings. This video was a big help, thank you for posting.
Going to be digging into my RV brakes for the first time. Thanks for this video, it'll be my guide!!
Farm out! Thanks Farmboy for your videos. I'm in the process of redoing my old motorhome brakes and you verified a few things I'd been unsure of. I'm at the point of knocking the studs out to remove the hub from the drum. Other videos showed using a hydraulic jack press to remove the studs. I don't have one and told my brother in law that on other vehicles hit the stud with lug nuts on. But I didn't know if that'd work with the heavier parts. Also that outside bearing snap ring retainer seemed mighty tight. But your idea of hitting the race some makes sense. You hit the race in tight to install it. Those seem the 2 hardest obstacles. Now when you remove the shoe spring retainers you use a regular pliers. I like to use a larger needle nose. And on the shoe springs I use vise grip pliers to grip the spring and push.
Were those chickens I heard near the beginning of the 2nd video? I was raised on my dad's chicken and dairy cow farm. Thanks for your work.
exbioman You're welcome! Yeah, that snap ring can be a bugger to get out, especially on the newer trucks. As far as the lug studs go, just hit them straight and you shouldn't have any problems. Just be sure to seat them nice and tight in the new drum. And, yes those were chickens. My mom raises Bantams.
Magnet to get the keyway out to free up the lock ring - exactly what i was looking for - thanks!!!
Thanks, I just used degreaser and water to clean the backing plate and put the drum in my parts washer and cleaned it up pretty good.
oh i man i have had some experience doing that with my old dually i had to replace all 16 studs on the rear cause someone tried to steal my wheels on mine and i didnt realise it till a few miles down the road and ruined the rims and studs so as always another great video
Helpful video, thanks! I don't have a dually, but same looking axles, hubs and drums. I going to take on this project. I'll post a video on my channel when done.
Glad it helped. Good luck Jack!
Just checked your channel out. Love those CUCV's! I wanted my '83 K20 to be a CUCV clone but still have the amenities like a/c. I need one of those grille guards.
Another video says the rear end oil is what comes in to lubricate your wheel bearings and thats why there is not another seal so it is suppold ta come in like that.
No inner seal, the gear oil is supposed to get in there to keep the bearings lubed. Only seal is the seal you replaced.
nice video hard job thanks for posting later
Do you know what size drum shoes go on these dually’s? Parts store said they have 2 1/2” or 3 1/2” wide for the C30. I have 3 1/2” in now and they scarred up the backing plate pretty good. Wondering if the previous owner put the wrong size in as I’ve always had problems with these brakes sticking. Thanks for any advice. Used your video a few years back to replace the seals.
Great video Farm boy. I have a 1976 and did the rear brakes 20 years ago myself. I never changed the axel seal and that looks easy enough. My question is: If you didn't change the bearings, then why did you remove the bearing races?
Jack
If I'm not mistaken, to get the outer bearing out you have to remove the inner race and drive the outer bearing & race out. I wanted to inspect and pack the bearings. Thanks!
OK, what type of grease did you pack the bearing with? Thanks
Regular wheel bearing grease. Someone told me later that the oil from the diff will coat the bearings but I'd rather be sure they're lubed.
Thanks for the information Farmboy, you are the MAN.
Thanks for the vid! Very helpful. Did you ever find and or stop the leak from the differential leaking down into the drum? Just wondering. Thanks!
Yes, the new hub seal stopped the leak.
Ah gotcha, thanks!
Thanks Farmboy......Good stuff!!
Dang that's terrible! Thanks for watching!
I,d let you use my sand blaster Jay,but whe,re a bit too far apart,Oh yea If I was you I would drain all the diff oil and add some Lucas to the new.Good video.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Glad to help out!
do you need to take the hub apart to replace outer bearing?
You have to remove the axle to access the spindle nut. Remove the spindle nut and washer to remove the outer bearing.
@@farmboy30117 the race was smashed up against the snapring. thanks for the vid
The lock nut is the same as front wheel bearing right? Snug it then back it off a hair?
Cody noneya I can't remember off hand. Did you watch part 2? I think I reinstalled it in that part.
If you don't have a parts washer get a toat and couple gallons of diesel
So I guess I'm going to have to go through thid whole ordeal just to replace the wheel cylinder and a stud on the back brakes on my 85 C30?
I'm doing the same thing on a c20.
I hope my K2500 isn't that bad on the rear brakes.
You Rock!!
Thanks for watching!
awsome
i have a 82 c-30 dually that im pulling the power train out and there are plenty heavy duty parts left over hit me up if needed
Thanks. I've got a parts truck myself now. I think it's an '83 C30.
Music
$170 for 1 drum, 8 studs, 1 can of break cleaner, 3qt of gear oil
Cody noneya Yeah, those drums are VERY expensive!
thanks for the info