Hey, I just want to express my thank you for a very comprehensive detailed video that you demonstrated/achieved. Wow what a big job that requires a great deal of tools, and skill to say the least. This video is perhaps one of the very best for the potential do it yourselfer's understanding. Thanks again for an EXCELLENT video.
I just finished mine and wanted to say thank you for making this video! It was a great resource and extremely helpful to make sure I wasn't missing anything.
I love your detail oriented procedural video. Only part I wish could have been added would have been the replacement of the traction-lok clutches. From one mechanic to another you clearly know your stuff.
@@tecmotiondyno It was a great video even without that part. This will really help guide a lot of people to tackle this job and complete it correctly. You have the hands on working knowledge to confidently give facts that many other content sources leave out. Keep up the great work and leaving a lasting knowledge database for people getting into the foxbody.
7:38 He is 100% correct about using Ford racing gears! I use to do so many 8.8 gear swaps I told everyone I’m not interested doing the job unless you buy ford racing gears. Every ford racing gear set I did 3.73 and under even the stock carrier shims worked usually the most you had to do was swap the shims side to side to get ur lash correct. Other brands are hit and miss one set might be good then the next set you gotta shim everything. Also definitely let the rtv dry over night
Thanks for your affirming feedback. I strive to provide accurate technical info on this channel and it is always nice when a viewer confirms that for other viewers.
Excellent video…. Until this one, I have been reluctant to attempt this job. Appreciate the professionalism and degree of details along with the tips and tricks!! I watched the entire video!!! That says a lot!
@seeunow44, thanks for the complement. When I started editing this video I realized that there was no way to really show you how to do the job in a 15 minute quicky, but I thought no one would watch what amounts to a feature length film, so it has been a pleasant surprise to see guys actually watching it. I did chapterize it to make it easier to find key parts of the job if you just need a little help or a review while you are doing it. Good luck with your project!
I'm going the other way. I rebuilt a 347 that was in my drag car. I currently have it in my street car with 410s. Car runs 10.80s on the stick. I'm looking to put 355s in because of rpm, noise and fuel consumption. I want to cruise past more gas stations lol. I have some videos of my mustangson my page. Great refresher video. Thanks
Glad it helped. I’m actually stunned that anyone watched this feature film length DIY video given the attention span people have today, so it’s great to get feedback like this. Feel free to pass it around to anyone else you know that could use it.
I have 4.10’s in my Mark VII and in my Coyote street rod. The Tecmotion Coupe has 4.88’s. Gears should be one of the first changes on cars like this for sure.
I’m glad you liked it. Honestly, when I edited it and felt like I couldn’t cut any more out without omitting important parts of the job and I still had essentially a feature length film, I thought no one would watch! It’s refreshing to see people actually watching it and getting something out of it.
@@tecmotiondyno I totally understand the long video dilemma. But I watched the whole thing and it was great! So don't worry so much about the length of it. As long as it's good, we'll watch 👍
Yes, and if you are building a hard hitting drag car, using a 9” style solid spacer is a good idea because really hard launches will further crush that collar, take the pinion preload out, and can result in a failure of the gear set. I actually tore all the teeth off an 8.8 pinion in a drag race because of this problem. It’s not necessary for the average street car though. If you look through this channel there is a video of that pinion failure on here, including in-car from when it happened.
This is awesome thanks for the vid! I dont have a lift so planning this winter to pull the entire rearend out and swap gears, mini spool, axles, change the brakes, shock, and upper/lower control arms all at the same time while I have the whole rear end out. Figure itll be easier that way than riding the struggle bus underneath the car
It is generally easier with the housing out on jack stands, but sometimes you need another guy to sit on one end of it while you crush the crush collar because you can actually lift one end right off the stands if you aren’t careful. When you pull the housing out of a V8 Fox, make sure you have a plan for the brake banjo fitting - you will need a new copper washer at the minimum and sometimes the whole fitting has to be replaced.
@@tecmotiondyno thanks for the tips. This is a 94 so it has rear discs, so I was thinking I can just hang the caliper up out of the way with the rear end out and not have to crack any lines loose.
You’ll be fine with that. The 5.0 Foxbodies run the brake lines down the middle of the car and then to the housing, but yours has the lines on the sides. You are totally going about this the right way in my opinion.
Great info I got a new axle carrier and it's 34 spline but theirs also 31 and 28 so that can't be changed cause like you said, the pinion bearings were different too I also believe the gear Carrier bearings are different too. Cause I got a 8.8 and I think I got parts for a super 8.8 and they have bigger gear Carrier bearings.
Great video. My 89 Saleen makes a small clunk when letting off the clutch in first gear. There's quite a lot of play when twisting the driveshaft but the pinion gear is tight. So thinking it's possibly my spider gears needing replaced. Thanks for your educational content.
Thanks! When I saw how long this video needed to be in order to be comprehensive I thought no one would watch it, so it is great to see it serving as a legitimate resource.
This car didn’t have a Coyote, but I am with you on that. I have a Coyote aluminator in my street rod and a drive a blown Coyote convertible every day in the summer!
Great video thanks for spending the time to make it.. I had to change the whole carrier because you can't buy the spider gears for a 03 Mach 1. any recommendations for breaking in a new gear set? Thanks, Jason
@jasonmiller4279 If you can, try to put 500 miles on it before really abusing it, but it probably doesn’t matter that much. I have literally installed one track side, drove up to the start line, and won an event with it. Thanks for watching and good luck with yours!
It’s redundant for sure. Occasionally you think you got a nice mark and after you clean everything up you can’t see it or distinguish it from some other mark that appeared after cleaning, so it is a good policy to do both.
I make a custom play list and watch all your how to videos. I feel like i have a good friend there with me when tackling these jobs on my 88lx 5.0 vert. I have brand new 3.55 Ford performance gears, new axle seals and bearings, and a ford traction lock rebuild kit. I want to tackle this badly but after watching this video seeing all the special tools, bearing press, and no lift i am contemplating is it better to let a shop do it lol. I did the aod to t5 swap last summer and that kicked my ass; first time with no help, no lift and basic tools floor jack and stands. U think the gear install and traction lock rebuild is easier or harder than the aod to t5 swap????? Thanks again from down here in the 🇺🇸 u.s.
A transmission swap on jackstands is no fun at any time, and I’m a big guy so I hate working under the dash, so the pedal box swap is also no fun. You’ll still have some of those problems with a gear swap on jackstands, but the gear job requires a wider array of specialized tools and attention to tolerances that are absent from the transmission swap job unless you also did the transmission rebuild. I have a hard time actually recommending that guys do this or any job themselves because there are all kinds of people out there and not everyone should be doing mechanical work. As an example, in the kit car world as shocking as it sounds, the typical guy who attempts a kit car bought his first socket set in conjunction with the project and has almost no real experience. Some of those guys are careful thoughtful workers and get a successful project done, but a lot of them abandon their project and make terrible mistakes that result in junky builds, which is why kit cars have a bit of a bad reputation. There is a stronger sense of accomplishment in doing it yourself, and if you spend your money on tools rather than services you will have something besides the car to show for the job. I’ve tried to give an honest comprehensive look at the job here but ultimately YOU will have to decide if you can do it successfully. There’s no shame in farming this job out to someone who is experienced and well equipped if you decide you can’t handle it. I typically charge $1500 Canadian parts and labor for a Foxbody gear swap, and I typically have the car for three days total if you are shopping the job around and wonder what it should cost. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
@tecmotiondyno right on Matthew! 🙏 ❤️ thank u so much for the response and your input. It's funny because I was going to have a performance shop do it this week rebuild the whole rear ie gears, traction lock seals and axle bearings and the gentleman canceled on me 😔 as I contemplated tackling it myself because I agree with u! 💯 the satisfaction u get after putting the sweat equity in is an amazing feeling! I had no idea what I was capable of after that aod to t5 swap by myself no help and first time. I am going to see if my local auto zone does tool renting and possibly face this one head on! I hope to see u make a video on the traction lock rebuild and axle bearings and seals on the next rear end u do. That is on my list as well just as preventative maintenance! You my friend are awesome 👌 👏 and I thank u kindly!!!! Izzy 🇺🇸
The axle bearings are not a big deal when you have the housing empty - just use a long bar to drive them out like I discuss here, and installation is straightforward with a seal and race driver, just be careful not to drive them in too deep.
@tecmotiondyno right on! I've been at it 3 days now lol haha. It's definitely no fun on jackstands. I honestly wish I would of just removed the whole rear as opposed to working on the concrete ground underneath the car. So far got the new rear axle seals and bearings installed, and trying to tap in the new races with a junky parts store bearing seal kit. They are being stubborn and I noticed the new races are a bit smaller in thickness than the factory ones I punched out. I'm running the Ford performance kit from lmr going from 273s to 355s.. going to replace the clutch packs for the t lok while I've got it out. I would rather be hit with a dead blow hammer 🔨 than pull all this back out again in the future 😆. Did u get lucky with the old pinion shim on the new pinion? And did u use the old shims on the side for the carrier? I'm hoping I find a shop to press on the new bearings for me. Thanks again 🙏 I learn so much from watching your vids. Had no idea how much work was involved in this project.
If you swap ford gears for ford gears and you use the same style pinion bearing, you can normally use the same thickness pinion shim as was used on the set you took out. In fact, that is a Ford Racing procedure, not just a shortcut. The original side bearing shims are a good starting point but they are almost never correct for the new gear set. Figure on adjusting them 3 or 4 times before you get it right. Make sure you turn it over a few times before you take your backlash measurements. Pulling the whole housing is not a bad plan but you will need new copper washers for the brake to body banjo fitting and will have to bleed the brakes after you put it back in.
If you are saying that you took apart an 8.8 and there was no pinion shim installed, then it was almost certainly assembled wrong. It would be pure speculation as to why this mistake was made, but I have seen situations where someone used the newer pinion bearings and didn’t replace the races which were for the older style bearing, and since they don’t mesh properly it screws up the depth. I would say that your rear end will need a scratch setup including a careful measurement of the pinion depth which I did not cover in this video. The “reuse the old pinion shim” technique only works if you started with a correctly assembled gear set. There is a special pinion depth checking tool for the ford gear sets which is available.
Yes, the gear setup is the same, though the later ones use a different pinion bearing. The IRS in the Terminators use the same gear setup too, but it is a lot easier to get at the housing if you pull the subframe out.
I botched a pinion seal re-torque on my 05 3v with a turbo so I'm gonna have to tear back into mine. What's a good carrier case for mainly street driving? Gears are also currently 3.55. Should I stick with that or go up to 3.73?
Lots of turbo guys run a taller gear like 3.55 with a modular like that. I’m not sure that I would change it, though I usually recommend 4.10’s for a naturally aspirated modular. As far as the differential itself, the stock unit is ok, or the GT500 traction lock with the carbon fiber clutches is a nice 31 spline replacement that is really reasonably priced.
That’s what I put in my Lincoln mark VII because it was heavier and an auto. If you are going to be driving it on the highway at 80 mph for an extended amount of time, 4.10 is almost too much though. Otherwise, it was a good choice.
There are places in the western US where 80 is the posted limit. Alberta highway 2 is 70, but that’s more of a suggestion than a hard limit in reality. You can get passed by a heavy truck if you are driving 70!
You forgot the worse part of this job.....THE SMELL that stuff is horrible !!!! did this on jack stands( maxed out) and your correct it sucks but can be done in 8+ hours as no room or light to work .. got my red gear in my TKO 3550 trans but couldn't get the speedo cable to go into it as the trans mount was now in the way ? any tricks to get the cable in to the speed gear cluster on the trans as the angle is too angled.... thanks...
@AwakeDude911 Sometimes the thing that is in the way is the mid pipe mount, and that can be removed. I’d have to get a look at yours, but I did a car with a 3550 in it a year or so ago and I’m sure it had the speedo cable installed. I might have some pictures or video of that car if I started digging.
Here’s something funny about those bolts. One of the most common problems I see in a pre-dyno inspection is the driveshaft bolts actually loose - like remove with fingers type of loose!
Hello? Where is your work bench? How come all you silly Canadians either have a micro sized bench or none at all? And grinding the bearing off the carrier with no eye protection is insane.
If you were watching, I have the safety glasses in my hand and put them on right before cutting the inner race off the bearing, but thanks for your concerns about my safety. As for work benches - fair enough. All my work benches are covered in junk and bench based power tools, but I have lots of floor space to work on something like this and it is closer to the car.
OK not trying to be a troll here but , I have performed many of these changes.why wouldn't you measure the pinion depth before you install the inner pinion bearing?I have never installed a new ring and pinion while using the existing pinion shim because it's never been correct.if the gear pattern isn't correct then you have to pull all of this back apart and measure for the correct pinion depth number anyway.why not do it the first time and not take a chance.plus your backlash won't be correct either if you think about too.
@sleathers1551 While a full pinion depth setup is part of a comprehensive from scratch gear change, in the special case where you are swapping one properly set up Ford gearset for another, Ford themselves suggest simply measuring the pinion shim that was installed and using a new one of the same thickness. Ford pinions are not marked with a pinion depth like aftermarket ones, and if you choose to do the full setup, like you will need to if replacing a non-Ford gear set, using a non-Ford gear set, or starting with an empty unreferenced housing, you will need special service tool T79P-4020-A or equivalent. The procedure outlined in this video is for replacing one properly set up Ford gear set with another, and is as described in Ford publication IS-1850-0239, Page 7: "Pinion Shim Selection Overview Ford Racing and Ford OEM gears do not use the same pinion depth method of setup as aftermarket gears. Shimming is done to compensate for differences in the machining of the axle housing. If you are removing a Ford OEM gear, the use of the same thickness pinion shim on the new Ford Racing gear, most times will allow you to achieve correct tooth contact pattern with only minor adjustments."
I did exactly this. Felt like i picked up 100 horse. Massive difference!
It’s probably the lowest hanging fruit on a car like this which came with such anemic gears.
This session is pure gold. The amount of experience is evident and what a teacher you are. Thank you for the video. New subscriber.
Thanks for your glowing feedback, and thanks for watching!
I’m not a mechanic so your video with a thorough explanation of everything is so helpful. Great job. Thanks
Hey, I just want to express my thank you for a very comprehensive detailed video that you demonstrated/achieved. Wow what a big job that requires a great deal of tools, and skill to say the least. This video is perhaps one of the very best for the potential do it yourselfer's understanding. Thanks again for an EXCELLENT video.
Thank you. I tried to make a comprehensive video and it ended up being so long that I thought no one would watch it.
Now he's a grand master mechanic 🙌
I just finished mine and wanted to say thank you for making this video! It was a great resource and extremely helpful to make sure I wasn't missing anything.
I hope your gear change works out how you hoped. A gear swap in a Foxbody is one of the best value for money upgrades that you can do.
I love your detail oriented procedural video. Only part I wish could have been added would have been the replacement of the traction-lok clutches. From one mechanic to another you clearly know your stuff.
Thanks for your kind words. When I get one that needs a clutch rebuild I will make a video showing that.
@@tecmotiondyno It was a great video even without that part. This will really help guide a lot of people to tackle this job and complete it correctly. You have the hands on working knowledge to confidently give facts that many other content sources leave out. Keep up the great work and leaving a lasting knowledge database for people getting into the foxbody.
7:38 He is 100% correct about using Ford racing gears! I use to do so many 8.8 gear swaps I told everyone I’m not interested doing the job unless you buy ford racing gears. Every ford racing gear set I did 3.73 and under even the stock carrier shims worked usually the most you had to do was swap the shims side to side to get ur lash correct. Other brands are hit and miss one set might be good then the next set you gotta shim everything.
Also definitely let the rtv dry over night
Thanks for your affirming feedback. I strive to provide accurate technical info on this channel and it is always nice when a viewer confirms that for other viewers.
Thank you for your great explanation and taking your time on the process of upgrading the rear end
You are welcome. I’m just glad some of you guys are actually watching this feature film length technical video!
Excellent video…. Until this one, I have been reluctant to attempt this job. Appreciate the professionalism and degree of details along with the tips and tricks!! I watched the entire video!!! That says a lot!
@seeunow44, thanks for the complement. When I started editing this video I realized that there was no way to really show you how to do the job in a 15 minute quicky, but I thought no one would watch what amounts to a feature length film, so it has been a pleasant surprise to see guys actually watching it. I did chapterize it to make it easier to find key parts of the job if you just need a little help or a review while you are doing it. Good luck with your project!
This was an exceptional video!
Thank you, when I see it helping guys it makes the effort to produce it seem worthwhile. Thanks for watching!
I'm going the other way. I rebuilt a 347 that was in my drag car. I currently have it in my street car with 410s. Car runs 10.80s on the stick. I'm looking to put 355s in because of rpm, noise and fuel consumption. I want to cruise past more gas stations lol.
I have some videos of my mustangson my page.
Great refresher video. Thanks
Thank you, my friend for this video! I greatly appreciate you taking the time to show us how it’s done!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks watched this video quite a few times, best one I came across, 390 gear ,full spool, c clip ,eliminator thanks
Glad it helped. I’m actually stunned that anyone watched this feature film length DIY video given the attention span people have today, so it’s great to get feedback like this. Feel free to pass it around to anyone else you know that could use it.
Gears are a huge bang for your buck. I have 4:10s in my 1989 notch and love them,
I have 4.10’s in my Mark VII and in my Coyote street rod. The Tecmotion Coupe has 4.88’s. Gears should be one of the first changes on cars like this for sure.
amazing video! the attention to detail is phenomenal. thanks for all the tips and tricks, too!
I’m glad you liked it. Honestly, when I edited it and felt like I couldn’t cut any more out without omitting important parts of the job and I still had essentially a feature length film, I thought no one would watch! It’s refreshing to see people actually watching it and getting something out of it.
@@tecmotiondyno I totally understand the long video dilemma. But I watched the whole thing and it was great! So don't worry so much about the length of it. As long as it's good, we'll watch 👍
Instead of using a crush sleeve Ive used a solid sleeve from currie (I think). This eliminates a lot if hassle IMO.
Yes, and if you are building a hard hitting drag car, using a 9” style solid spacer is a good idea because really hard launches will further crush that collar, take the pinion preload out, and can result in a failure of the gear set. I actually tore all the teeth off an 8.8 pinion in a drag race because of this problem. It’s not necessary for the average street car though. If you look through this channel there is a video of that pinion failure on here, including in-car from when it happened.
Tecmotion Coupe Breaks the Pinion at Mega Ford Weekend V
ruclips.net/video/zyPC9U0Dc0Y/видео.html
This is awesome thanks for the vid! I dont have a lift so planning this winter to pull the entire rearend out and swap gears, mini spool, axles, change the brakes, shock, and upper/lower control arms all at the same time while I have the whole rear end out. Figure itll be easier that way than riding the struggle bus underneath the car
It is generally easier with the housing out on jack stands, but sometimes you need another guy to sit on one end of it while you crush the crush collar because you can actually lift one end right off the stands if you aren’t careful. When you pull the housing out of a V8 Fox, make sure you have a plan for the brake banjo fitting - you will need a new copper washer at the minimum and sometimes the whole fitting has to be replaced.
@@tecmotiondyno thanks for the tips. This is a 94 so it has rear discs, so I was thinking I can just hang the caliper up out of the way with the rear end out and not have to crack any lines loose.
You’ll be fine with that. The 5.0 Foxbodies run the brake lines down the middle of the car and then to the housing, but yours has the lines on the sides. You are totally going about this the right way in my opinion.
Great video I love the details one of the best I’ve seen thanks
Thanks for your nice feedback, and thanks for watching!
Great info I got a new axle carrier and it's 34 spline but theirs also 31 and 28 so that can't be changed cause like you said, the pinion bearings were different too I also believe the gear Carrier bearings are different too. Cause I got a 8.8 and I think I got parts for a super 8.8 and they have bigger gear Carrier bearings.
Great video. My 89 Saleen makes a small clunk when letting off the clutch in first gear. There's quite a lot of play when twisting the driveshaft but the pinion gear is tight. So thinking it's possibly my spider gears needing replaced. Thanks for your educational content.
You are welcome. Hopefully it is proving useful!
what a great video. detailed. neat and clean work. have subcribed. thanks a ton.
Thanks! When I saw how long this video needed to be in order to be comprehensive I thought no one would watch it, so it is great to see it serving as a legitimate resource.
again, so well done. not rushed and 'hack-ish'. a jewel. @@tecmotiondyno
Thanks for a great detailed video!
I hope it helped, and thanks for watching!
Excellent video ! Keep up the great work!
Thanks, and thanks for watching!
Love coyote motors hopefully I can do my 91 vert the same way
This car didn’t have a Coyote, but I am with you on that. I have a Coyote aluminator in my street rod and a drive a blown Coyote convertible every day in the summer!
Such a great channel!
Thanks for watching! Feel free to share it with your friends if you find it useful.
Great video thanks for spending the time to make it..
I had to change the whole carrier because you can't buy the spider gears for a 03 Mach 1.
any recommendations for breaking in a new gear set?
Thanks,
Jason
@jasonmiller4279 If you can, try to put 500 miles on it before really abusing it, but it probably doesn’t matter that much. I have literally installed one track side, drove up to the start line, and won an event with it. Thanks for watching and good luck with yours!
If you dimple one cap, is there really a need to do the other one?
It’s redundant for sure. Occasionally you think you got a nice mark and after you clean everything up you can’t see it or distinguish it from some other mark that appeared after cleaning, so it is a good policy to do both.
3.55 and MAC catback exhaust, otherwise I'm stock with an AOD. It's okay, but 3.73 probably is the better ratio for local driving.
I have always thought that 3.55 was too timid, even for the highway myself. I am generally biased toward more gear than your average guy out there.
I make a custom play list and watch all your how to videos. I feel like i have a good friend there with me when tackling these jobs on my 88lx 5.0 vert. I have brand new 3.55 Ford performance gears, new axle seals and bearings, and a ford traction lock rebuild kit. I want to tackle this badly but after watching this video seeing all the special tools, bearing press, and no lift i am contemplating is it better to let a shop do it lol. I did the aod to t5 swap last summer and that kicked my ass; first time with no help, no lift and basic tools floor jack and stands. U think the gear install and traction lock rebuild is easier or harder than the aod to t5 swap????? Thanks again from down here in the 🇺🇸 u.s.
A transmission swap on jackstands is no fun at any time, and I’m a big guy so I hate working under the dash, so the pedal box swap is also no fun. You’ll still have some of those problems with a gear swap on jackstands, but the gear job requires a wider array of specialized tools and attention to tolerances that are absent from the transmission swap job unless you also did the transmission rebuild. I have a hard time actually recommending that guys do this or any job themselves because there are all kinds of people out there and not everyone should be doing mechanical work. As an example, in the kit car world as shocking as it sounds, the typical guy who attempts a kit car bought his first socket set in conjunction with the project and has almost no real experience. Some of those guys are careful thoughtful workers and get a successful project done, but a lot of them abandon their project and make terrible mistakes that result in junky builds, which is why kit cars have a bit of a bad reputation. There is a stronger sense of accomplishment in doing it yourself, and if you spend your money on tools rather than services you will have something besides the car to show for the job. I’ve tried to give an honest comprehensive look at the job here but ultimately YOU will have to decide if you can do it successfully. There’s no shame in farming this job out to someone who is experienced and well equipped if you decide you can’t handle it. I typically charge $1500 Canadian parts and labor for a Foxbody gear swap, and I typically have the car for three days total if you are shopping the job around and wonder what it should cost. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
@tecmotiondyno right on Matthew! 🙏 ❤️ thank u so much for the response and your input. It's funny because I was going to have a performance shop do it this week rebuild the whole rear ie gears, traction lock seals and axle bearings and the gentleman canceled on me 😔 as I contemplated tackling it myself because I agree with u! 💯 the satisfaction u get after putting the sweat equity in is an amazing feeling! I had no idea what I was capable of after that aod to t5 swap by myself no help and first time. I am going to see if my local auto zone does tool renting and possibly face this one head on! I hope to see u make a video on the traction lock rebuild and axle bearings and seals on the next rear end u do. That is on my list as well just as preventative maintenance! You my friend are awesome 👌 👏 and I thank u kindly!!!!
Izzy 🇺🇸
The axle bearings are not a big deal when you have the housing empty - just use a long bar to drive them out like I discuss here, and installation is straightforward with a seal and race driver, just be careful not to drive them in too deep.
@tecmotiondyno right on! I've been at it 3 days now lol haha. It's definitely no fun on jackstands. I honestly wish I would of just removed the whole rear as opposed to working on the concrete ground underneath the car. So far got the new rear axle seals and bearings installed, and trying to tap in the new races with a junky parts store bearing seal kit. They are being stubborn and I noticed the new races are a bit smaller in thickness than the factory ones I punched out. I'm running the Ford performance kit from lmr going from 273s to 355s.. going to replace the clutch packs for the t lok while I've got it out. I would rather be hit with a dead blow hammer 🔨 than pull all this back out again in the future 😆. Did u get lucky with the old pinion shim on the new pinion? And did u use the old shims on the side for the carrier? I'm hoping I find a shop to press on the new bearings for me. Thanks again 🙏 I learn so much from watching your vids. Had no idea how much work was involved in this project.
If you swap ford gears for ford gears and you use the same style pinion bearing, you can normally use the same thickness pinion shim as was used on the set you took out. In fact, that is a Ford Racing procedure, not just a shortcut. The original side bearing shims are a good starting point but they are almost never correct for the new gear set. Figure on adjusting them 3 or 4 times before you get it right. Make sure you turn it over a few times before you take your backlash measurements. Pulling the whole housing is not a bad plan but you will need new copper washers for the brake to body banjo fitting and will have to bleed the brakes after you put it back in.
Why would I not have shim between pinion and bearing? I have noise. Don't think it was set correctly.
If you are saying that you took apart an 8.8 and there was no pinion shim installed, then it was almost certainly assembled wrong. It would be pure speculation as to why this mistake was made, but I have seen situations where someone used the newer pinion bearings and didn’t replace the races which were for the older style bearing, and since they don’t mesh properly it screws up the depth. I would say that your rear end will need a scratch setup including a careful measurement of the pinion depth which I did not cover in this video. The “reuse the old pinion shim” technique only works if you started with a correctly assembled gear set. There is a special pinion depth checking tool for the ford gear sets which is available.
Is the install pretty much the same for all mustangs up to 2014?
Yes, the gear setup is the same, though the later ones use a different pinion bearing. The IRS in the Terminators use the same gear setup too, but it is a lot easier to get at the housing if you pull the subframe out.
Any hints for doing a rebuild on bench top ?
Do you mean of the traction lok or doing the gear job with the housing out on the ground?
Yes install the supercharged
Pretty sure that’s going to happen
I botched a pinion seal re-torque on my 05 3v with a turbo so I'm gonna have to tear back into mine. What's a good carrier case for mainly street driving? Gears are also currently 3.55. Should I stick with that or go up to 3.73?
Lots of turbo guys run a taller gear like 3.55 with a modular like that. I’m not sure that I would change it, though I usually recommend 4.10’s for a naturally aspirated modular. As far as the differential itself, the stock unit is ok, or the GT500 traction lock with the carbon fiber clutches is a nice 31 spline replacement that is really reasonably priced.
He mentioned Princes Auto ... Canadian chanel???
Yes, Tecmotion is based in Calgary, Alberta.
Guy I know who does 2 or 3 swaps per week said 410 was best for a auto. Thoughts?
That’s what I put in my Lincoln mark VII because it was heavier and an auto. If you are going to be driving it on the highway at 80 mph for an extended amount of time, 4.10 is almost too much though. Otherwise, it was a good choice.
@@tecmotiondyno 80? Lol. 65 here or u get a big tickee
There are places in the western US where 80 is the posted limit. Alberta highway 2 is 70, but that’s more of a suggestion than a hard limit in reality. You can get passed by a heavy truck if you are driving 70!
@@mistersecret88 in NY if your NOT driving 75 + your getting your doors blown off on any hiway here..
@@AwakeDude911 No doubt.
You forgot the worse part of this job.....THE SMELL that stuff is horrible !!!! did this on jack stands( maxed out) and your correct it sucks but can be done in 8+ hours as no room or light to work .. got my red gear in my TKO 3550 trans but couldn't get the speedo cable to go into it as the trans mount was now in the way ? any tricks to get the cable in to the speed gear cluster on the trans as the angle is too angled.... thanks...
@AwakeDude911 Sometimes the thing that is in the way is the mid pipe mount, and that can be removed. I’d have to get a look at yours, but I did a car with a 3550 in it a year or so ago and I’m sure it had the speedo cable installed. I might have some pictures or video of that car if I started digging.
Were you really able to remove those drive shaft bolts so easily by hand?
Believe it or not, I edited this video for brevity! I broke the bolts loose “off camera”, though it was done with a 12mm combo wrench.
yeah at the bone yard youll say prayers with a wrench trying to break theses bolts freeeeeee
Here’s something funny about those bolts. One of the most common problems I see in a pre-dyno inspection is the driveshaft bolts actually loose - like remove with fingers type of loose!
They said their would be a burnout at the end of this video 😢
I don’t think I ever promised that! Thanks for watching!
Hello? Where is your work bench? How come all you silly Canadians either have a micro sized bench or none at all? And grinding the bearing off the carrier with no eye protection is insane.
If you were watching, I have the safety glasses in my hand and put them on right before cutting the inner race off the bearing, but thanks for your concerns about my safety. As for work benches - fair enough. All my work benches are covered in junk and bench based power tools, but I have lots of floor space to work on something like this and it is closer to the car.
OK not trying to be a troll here but , I have performed many of these changes.why wouldn't you measure the pinion depth before you install the inner pinion bearing?I have never installed a new ring and pinion while using the existing pinion shim because it's never been correct.if the gear pattern isn't correct then you have to pull all of this back apart and measure for the correct pinion depth number anyway.why not do it the first time and not take a chance.plus your backlash won't be correct either if you think about too.
@sleathers1551 While a full pinion depth setup is part of a comprehensive from scratch gear change, in the special case where you are swapping one properly set up Ford gearset for another, Ford themselves suggest simply measuring the pinion shim that was installed and using a new one of the same thickness. Ford pinions are not marked with a pinion depth like aftermarket ones, and if you choose to do the full setup, like you will need to if replacing a non-Ford gear set, using a non-Ford gear set, or starting with an empty unreferenced housing, you will need special service tool T79P-4020-A or equivalent. The procedure outlined in this video is for replacing one properly set up Ford gear set with another, and is as described in Ford publication IS-1850-0239, Page 7:
"Pinion Shim Selection Overview
Ford Racing and Ford OEM gears do not use the same pinion depth method of setup as aftermarket gears.
Shimming is done to compensate for differences in the machining of the axle housing. If you are removing a Ford OEM gear, the use of the same thickness pinion shim on the new Ford Racing gear, most times will allow you to achieve correct tooth contact pattern with only minor adjustments."