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Mini skid electric fuel pump or just new lines? (AGD-460, LRT23, JQ400)
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- @adventureswithtravis9847 posted the video recommending the electric fuel pump and showed the stock pump after removal, that I mentioned in my video.
Very thorough and exactly what I needed to see and hear. Admittedly, I'll be going with a new fuel pump, mounted just where you'd suggested. Thank you for uploading this and making my life a heck of alot easier. Also, I'm definitely using the blue tubing. That should give me an extra 10 HP. 😅
See my latest on this. My stock filter was plugged. I added an electric pump, but had to drop it down low.
ps I haven't had it on the dyno yet, but I bet your HP guess is accurate. Almost does wheelies now. Lol
@mikedesilets3324 Indeed! 😅 I've been keeping up with your videos as I am in the exact same spot as you are with this. For what it's worth, I went to an autoparts store and found, next to the filters, the very fuel pump for that machine. Swapped out the pump and filter and she fired right up. The true test comes when there is a load on the hydraulics. Fingers crossed.
@@franklinshooter3050 I have a feeling that my stock pump is fine. I may do a hose swap (without the stock filter) to test it. I'm curious now.
Could be only the fuel cap should suck air through the cap to flow petrol through the pump loose the petrol cap a little bit and try
That is called an impulse pump, and it should have no issues in that application. They power 25hp engines all day. It may be a junk pump... but it is the correct pump for the application. They are standard Lego parts. Buy a known quality pump from Kohler, Briggs and Stratton, Kawasaki. Basically go buy a quality pump from the OEM that these guys are ripping off.
Theory of operation.
It contains a diaphragm. One side connects to the crank case. Every time the piston moves in the bore it creates a pressure differential in the crank case. That causes the diaphragm to move in or out. The other side of the diaphragm contains the fuel, and two check valves. So it can only draw fuel from the tank, and only push fuel to the carburetor.
1:45 Not the best idea. There is good reason why nobody intentionally loops a fuel line like that. It encourages the entrained vapors to come out of suspension. Then you have a vapor lock condition. Nothing on that engine is SAE. Metric fuel line, and constant tension clamps are far superior to incorrectly sized lines and ill fitting worm gear clamps.
@Failure_Is_An_Option Thanks for the detailed info. At this point I'm pretty sure the stock fuel filter was the issue.
@@mikedesilets3324 Wouldn't surprise me either. The components they figure out how shave costs on is amazing.